America's most famous river journey is also highly underrated

The Age

16-05-2025

We drive from the ship to Graceland, surely more magical than Disneyland for Elvis Presley fans. Much more than a museum, the former home of Elvis and his family is an invitation to metaphorically step into the king's blue suede shoes for a day. To do it justice takes hours, for the scope and quality of his personal effects on display is vast.
In the Jungle Room, Elvis' tropical man cave, it's not hard to imagine his ghost lounging on the green shag pile carpet. His pink Cadillac gleams in the Presley Motors Automobile Museum, while the bling and dazzle of his stage costumes are an exercise in fabulous maximalism.
At Gladys' Diner (named in honour of Elvis' mother), a peanut butter banana toastie tastes better than I expect it to. I skip the bacon-grease glaze.
Over at Sun Studio, the Elvis tour continues, with a history lesson in how legendary producer Sam Phillips launched the careers of many early rock icons. In 1953, a teenage Elvis recorded two demo tapes as a gift for his mum. Phillips, recognising the kid's talent and charisma, brought him back in for more recording sessions. The rest is history.
Memphis is also a key location in the civil rights movement, and has become a place of pilgrimage, education and remembrance. It was in Memphis that Dr Martin Luther King was assassinated on April 4, 1968, on the balcony of the Lorraine motel. A popular accommodation choice for African-American travellers during the segregation era, the motel has been transformed into the National Civil Rights Museum.
Saddle up for Nashville
It's a three-hour drive from Memphis to Nashville, an interstate highway journey that passes quickly as I enhance it with my iPhone soundtrack of classic Johnny Cash, Dolly Parton and Patsy Cline tunes. The two-night post-cruise Nashville extension tour leans in to the rich musical heritage of the city, a place where countless stars of country, blues, folk, soul and gospel music have found their feet and their fame.
Inspired by Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood and other boot-scooting mega-stars of country, Nashville is a supremely popular destination for bachelorette getaways. Along the neon-lit Broadway strip of live music bars, many of them owned by the biggest names on the Billboard Country charts, we see groups of prancing young women dressed in the cos-play gear of the genre: Western hats, cowgirl boots, denim miniskirts and lots of fringing.
Many of those bar-owning big names are honoured at the Country Music Hall of Fame, an impressive, high-tech, interactive museum. With so many legendary attractions to visit in a couple of days, I trot from one end of Nashville to the other, fuelled by delicious barbecued beef brisket, pulled pork and coleslaw.
The grand dame landmark is the Ryman Auditorium, home until 1974 of the world's longest-running live radio show, the Grand Ole Opry. While the show now has a permanent, 4400-seat home at the Grand Ole Opry House, some 20 kilometres from downtown Nashville, the Ryman remains a must-visit for its incredible acoustics and legacy as the 'mother church' of country music.
Across the street, the National Museum of African American Music tells another story – that of the incredible influence African-American music has had on American culture. If you love the music of Elvis Presley, you can thank the influence of black music, particularly gospel and rhythm and blues. From the earliest spirituals, rooted in African traditions and sung by enslaved people as religious expression and secret codes, to the music world domination of Beyonce and her contemporaries, credit is given where it's due.
Uplifted in the South
Two weeks in the Deep South have flown by, and it's now time for our Viking journey to come to an end. The music, the flavours, the heartbreaking history and incredibly warm welcome create unforgettable memories.
Say what you will about politics in the US, but the charming people of the South and their famous hospitality sure do leave a sweet impression. The person-to-person connections seem stronger and more sincere than ever, even more so when locals hear an Australian accent.
'Thank you for coming, we're so glad you're here,' is a sentiment visitors will hear, over and over. 'Y'all come back soon now.'
Five other great rivers of the world to cruise
Yangtze River
For a taste of Chinese cuisine, culture and spectacular scenery, consider the Yangtze. Most cruises pass through the Three Gorges area, known for dramatic, towering cliffs and lush valleys.
The Nile
Egypt's mighty Nile River is hot, hot, hot this year, and not just in the sweltering summer months. Avid cruisers are seizing the opportunity to explore ancient sites, mystical temples and fascinating museums.
The Danube (and the Rhine)
A river cruise from Budapest to Amsterdam is a classic Europe cruise itinerary for a reason, winding along the Danube and the Rhine rivers past interesting cities, charming small towns and pretty countryside. The hearty food is reliably delicious and the port stops provide enough variety to keep the most inquiring minds entertained: thermal bathing one day in Budapest, classical music the next in Vienna.
The Seine
A cruise that begins with a starry sail-away from moonlit Paris bodes well for a good time. And so it is with Seine River cruise itineraries that typically include visits to Monet's gardens at Giverny, Joan of Arc's old stomping grounds in Rouen, and the Normandy landing beaches. As you would expect in France, there are also visits to flower markets, patisseries and wineries.
The Amazon
The awesomely potent Amazon runs for 6400 kilometres through South America's biodiverse rainforest and jungle. Cruising is a smart choice to cover the most ground, some of which is very remote, with many itineraries beginning in Peru or northern Brazil in a region that is home to about 10 per cent of the world's known animal species.
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The details
Cruise
Discover Southern heritage and quaint towns along the banks of the Mississippi on Viking's eight-day Mississippi Delta Explorer journey. From $6495 a person in a Deluxe Verandah with savings up to $4800 a couple on new 2025, 2026 and 2027 sailings. Available now through to June 30, 2025. Longer cruises on the Mississippi (11, 15 and 22 days) are also available. See viking.com
US entry
The Australian Government Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade advises travellers that entry requirements to the US are strict. Travellers should be aware that the US authorities have broad powers to decide if you're eligible to enter. Thoroughly check US entry, registration, transit and exit requirements. See smartraveller.gov.au