Is this £99 serum really Botox in a bottle?
For as long as there has been Botox, there have been creams and serums designed to imitate the smoothing results of anti-wrinkle injections. Except, of course, you cannot get a like-for-like effect with a toxin that freezes the muscles for a few months (often longer) from a cream that you slap on your skin before you go to sleep.
The beauty industry is getting significantly closer, though. And that's thanks to big advances in the science of peptides. It seems to be a word used across a lot of 'anti-ageing' skincare, but what are peptides? They are short chains of amino acids, which can signal skin cells to perform a whole manner of functions, such as produce more collagen, repair damaged cells and reduce inflammation. In theory, with the right peptides, you can trigger the skin to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
I've never had Botox myself, so over the past six months I have been keenly testing a couple of peptide serums to see if they are all they're cracked to be. There's one standout from the Swiss brand Meder called Myo-Fix (£99). The packaging is functional with no bells and whistles, but this serum, described as a 'toxin-free alternative to wrinkle treatments', gives impressive results. It is a targeted treatment you use twice a day on the areas of the face where you have wrinkles, such as the forehead, upper lip and around the eyes (crow's feet).
Myo-Fix, £99, Meder
'Peptides are the future of skincare,' Dr Tiina Meder, the founder of the brand, confidently tells me over a coffee. She has been using peptides in her bestselling range since 2009 (she has never had Botox herself, and has an incredible youthful complexion in her 50s). While it remains true that no cream or serum can freeze your muscles like a neurotoxin can, clinical trials have shown a reduction in deep lines with continued use of Myo-Fix.
One of the brands I always look to for its advanced skincare tech is SkinCeuticals, which sparked the trend for these super-peptide serums last summer with the launch of P-Tiox, its answer to 'glass skin' (i.e. a radiant, dewy, smooth complexion) in a bottle. This £130 serum is the one I've used the longest, sandwiching it in between my vitamin C serum, which goes on first, and my day cream.
P-Tiox, £130, SkinCeuticals
I loathe layering on too many serums for the sake of it, but I really noticed a difference using P-Tiox. I can't say it actively stopped any fine lines in their tracks, despite it being called a 'wrinkle-modulating peptide serum', but it has definitely given me unusually smooth skin that has a sheeny quality to it. I've almost finished the bottle to the last drop, which as far as beauty editor metrics go, is a five-star rating.
I also really rate anything, quite frankly, by the luxury skincare brand Allies of Skin. Nicolas Travis, the brand founder and formulator, is a bit of a genius: he has an army of serums all designed to tackle almost any skincare concern.
Advanced Lifting Serum, £176, Allies of Skin
His Multi Peptides & GF (growth factor) Advanced Lifting Serum (£176) is definitely at the top end of the serum price range, but if your budget stretches to this, I would highly recommend it. This serum is like an anti-ageing powerhouse, plumping the skin beautifully with a smoothing effect. Used alone it's fantastic, but if money is no object I suggest layering it at night under the brand's Retinal 0.1 per cent & Peptides Advanced Repair Night Cream (£123) for a winning duo.
With skincare this good, I won't be booking in for any injectables any time soon. If you do have injectables yourself, however, these peptide serums can help your skin to look as fresh as it can in between those appointments. A great option all round.
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