This volcanic Italian island was made for wine

Yahoo

12-02-2025

Pantelleria, a volcanic island between Sicily and Tunisia, is quite small, but it produces great wine. Geographically closer to Tunisia, it has a rich history that has seen the passage of different cultures that made their way from across the sea.
'History has crossed this small rock sitting right in between two continents [of Europe and Africa],' says Dalila Calabrese, a Fora travel advisor and Italian living in Naples. Today, she notes, its economy is largely supported by caper plantations and wineries on the island.
Pantelleria's strategic location in the Strait of Sicily has made it a coveted outpost for various civilizations throughout history. The island was first settled during the Neolithic period, with archaeological remains such as the Sesi — stone structures that served as funerary domes — suggesting an advanced prehistoric culture. Over the centuries, countries have fought for control over this rocky yet significant island.
Today, traces of its layered history remain in its architecture, agricultural practices, and cuisine, and parts remain largely devoid of tourism.
'What I find fascinating about these 'wild' islands of Italy, is the older generations,' says Calabrese. 'You might meet someone in Pantelleria, who is 80 or 90 years old and has never left the island and has no idea what it is like on the mainland. I think this is something that you can rarely find in places where over-tourism is taking over.'
The island's extreme conditions include intense sunlight, cooling sea breezes, strong winds, arid climate, and rugged terrain of both dry and volcanic soil. These elements have shaped a striking environment. Natural hot springs and steaming fumaroles hint at the island's volcanic origins, while hidden coves and dramatic cliffs meet the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean, creating a wild and breathtaking coastal landscape.
The island's lush greenery and vegetation contrasts with dark lava rock, and because of all these contrasts, ancient agricultural practices have been adapted to the island's challenges.
The famed Pantelleria gardens, which feature circular stone enclosures, protect delicate citrus trees from the relentless winds, while vineyards of Zibibbo grapes — the native grapes of Pantelleria, also known as Moscato d'Alessandria — thrive in the island's mineral-rich soil, best known for producing passito wine, a sweet dessert wine made from dried grapes.
The method of growing wine (or rather, grapes) on Pantelleria is called Alberello Pantesco, also known as vite ad alberello, which is a low bush vine system. (The second translates to 'vine like a small tree," the former refers to Pantelleria in the word Pantesco.) Vines are pruned and cultivated as low bushes, close to the ground, in hollows that are sometimes up to 23 inches deep. This system has been used for centuries, and was thought to have been started by the Phoenicians as far back as eighth century B.C., when they brought the Egyptian grape of Zibibbo to Pantelleria.
Much of Zibibbo is used to make passito wines, though they're also used to make still whites with less sweetness and on the drier side, comparatively. 'The passito is the oldest genetically unmodified wine still existing and probably one of the first cultivated by humans,' says Calabrese.
The Alberello Pantesco practice protects the vines from the island's strong winds and retains moisture in the arid soil.
'Pantelleria's volcanic soil — aka sandy soil, where the roots easily capture humidity from the ground — is rich in minerals, imparting a distinctive minerality and salinity to the grapes,' says Antonio Rallo, CEO of Winemaker at Donnafugata, one of the most prominent wineries to have a hand in cultivating wine in Pantelleria. The winery, which also has vineyards in Sicily — including regions near Vittoria and Mount Etna to Marsala — started cultivating grapes on the island using this Alberello Pantesco method in 1989.
In fact, this vite ad alberello method of cultivation used by all on Pantelleria was recognized by UNESCO in 2014 on the representative list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. It was the first agricultural practice to be recognized by the association.
'The harsh environment, minimal rainfall, and volcanic soils cause the vines to produce lower yields, leading to intensely flavored and aromatic grapes with notes of raisins, apricot, orange blossom, honey, and tropical fruit,' says Rallo.
The changing temperatures, on the other hand, enhance the grapes' natural acidity, which balances the sweetness from the drying process. 'The relentless winds and lack of water aren't drawbacks — they are part of what creates intensely flavored, aromatic grapes,' says Rallo. 'This adversity gives the wines their unparalleled character. The volcanic soil influence is undeniable and adds to the wines' complexity and sense of place.'
(Related: 10 must-do experiences in Sicily)
Donnafugata practices a non-irrigated viticulture, which is typical of the island, relying on natural rainfall and careful soil management. In their practice, the vines are deeply rooted. Given the rugged terrain and the Alberello Pantesco-style of growing, all their vineyards (and most on the island) are harvested by hand.
This labor-intensive process also ensures only the best grapes are selected at just the right time. Finally, for the passito making, the Zibibbo grapes are harvested and then laid out to dry in the sun, a traditional technique that helps to concentrate the sugars and sugar levels while still retaining natural acidity.
'Zibibbo isn't just another grape — it's a cultural symbol,' says Rallo. 'Its ability to express the terroir of Pantelleria in both sweet and dry styles showcase its extraordinary adaptability.'
Pantelleria is not just a place where grapes are grown; it is a living symbol of the remarkable resilience of nature and humans.
'The wines from this island are rare gems that deserve greater appreciation, not only for their unique flavors but also for the deep connection they embody to history, dedication, and sustainability. Every bottle from Pantelleria tells the story of an extraordinary land, its rich culture, and the people who preserve its timeless traditions," says Rallo.
1. Donnafugata:One of the most famous names in Sicilian winemaking, Donnafugata's Pantelleria estate is a must-visit for Zibibbo lovers. Their iconic Ben Ryé, a celebrated passito, is crafted from sun-dried Zibibbo grapes, offering delicious notes of apricot and honey. Enjoy a tasting at their vineyard, set against the island's volcanic landscape.
2. Cantina Basile:A family-run winery dedicated to traditional Pantelleria winemaking, Cantina Basile produces both dry and sweet expressions of Zibibbo. The rustic estate provides an intimate experience where visitors can sip wines while learning about the island's viticulture, from hand-harvesting to drying grapes in the sun.
3. Abraxas Winery & Wine Bar:For a relaxed yet refined tasting experience, head to Abraxas, a winery and enoteca perched on a hill with stunning sea views. They serve a selection of Pantelleria's Zibibbo wines, including fresh, aromatic dry styles and luscious passitos, paired with local specialties like capers, ricotta, and couscous.
Samantha Leal is a writer, editor, and editorial consultant who covers all the good things in life — travel, wellness, beauty, wine, and more. She is currently in the WSET program, and graduated from the Medill School of Journalism at Northwestern University. She's held editorial roles at The Knot, Latina magazine, Marie Claire, and Well+Good, and her work has been published by Travel+Leisure, The Cut, Glamour, PS, The Zoe Report, Women's Health, Fast Company, Refinery29, Wine Enthusiast, VinePair, and more. You can find her everywhere online @samanthajoleal.