Argentine winemaker finds his ideal blend in China

Borneo Post

18-05-2025

Federico Carabajal, a winemaker from Argentina, checks the growth of grapes at a vineyard of Stone and Moon Winery in Qingtongxia City, northwest China's Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, Aug. 7, 2024. (Xinhua/Liu Hai)
YINCHUAN (May 19): Entering summer, tens of thousands of hectares of wine grapes turn into a green ocean in the Gobi Desert in northwest China.
At the eastern foothill of Helan Mountain in Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, Argentine winemaker Federico Carabajal shuttles busily between the vineyard and the cellar, trimming grape shoots or blending different wines to achieve his desired style.
Carabajal, 32, hails from Mendoza, a renowned wine production zone in Argentina. Born into a winemaker's family, he acquired a master's degree in grape cultivation and winemaking and worked in many renowned wineries in Argentina, Spain and the United States before heading to China as a chief winemaker in a winery last year.
'The climate and soils here are very similar to my hometown and the terroir can definitely produce quality wine,' he said, adding that Ningxia's high-quality wines performed exceptionally well in international competitions, luring him to come and make top-class wine in China.
The eastern foothill of Helan Mountain in Ningxia, with its dry climate and abundant sunshine, is acclaimed as a 'golden zone' for grape cultivation and premium wine production. It is home to more than 200 wineries.
Carabajal vividly recalls his first experience tasting wine made here.
'The palate was impeccably balanced, the aromas strikingly unique, and the quality was quite amazing. You could truly sense the charm bestowed by the region's distinctive terroir,' said the winemaker.
Last year, Carabajal faced his first harvest in China, but unexpected rainfall forced an earlier-than-planned grape picking. While he was overwhelmed with anxiety, his Chinese colleagues remained calm, steadily carrying out the tasks at hand. Their composure brought him much-needed comfort.
'I really need to learn from my Chinese coworkers. They are always calm and relaxed,' Carabajal laughed.
He is often invited to attend wine-themed meetings, where he likes to talk with other winemakers about vineyard management and lab work.
Ningxia has emerged as a rising star on the world wine map within just over 40 years, and international exchange is one of the key reasons for its rapid development.
In recent years, the region has introduced over 210 grape varieties from around the world for wine production and collaborated with more than 60 winemakers from 23 countries. These efforts have significantly advanced local grape cultivation practices and elevated the region's winemaking techniques.
Maria Teresa Romero Ponce, a Chilean winemaker who worked in Ningxia from 2021 to 2024, created 12 types of wines with nine grape varieties there.
Ponce said Marselan grapes are usually used to make dry red wine, but she tried them in ros wine, which was a hit with consumers. The experience in Ningxia was quite unique, she said.
Nicolas Billot-Grima (L), founder of Stone and Moon Winery, tastes wine with Federico Carabajal, a winemaker from Argentina, at a cellar in Qingtongxia City, northwest China's Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region, Aug. 7, 2024. (Xinhua/Liu Hai)
During his spare time, Carabajal has taught himself Chinese and visited cities like Beijing, Shanghai, Chongqing and Xi'an.
He plans to stay in China for at least one more year. 'I'm happy working here, and China is so large and beautiful, with so much to explore and so many delicious foods to try.'
When he shares his experiences with friends in Argentina, many express interest in working in China as well.
'If China and Argentina establish an annual exchange program for winemakers, it would greatly benefit both industries,' Carabajal said. – Xinhua China drinking vineyard wine