專訪|雪糕店執笠轉開薄餅店 Jacomax老闆做鬼佬YouTuber變逆市奇葩:Be playful|Yahoo
【Yahoo 新聞報道】愛看《低俗喜劇》、懂唱《死性不改》,來港15年的意大利人Jacopo Contiero一口「半鹹淡」廣東話,渾身散發香港地道的氣息。他連首次創業都選這片土地,經歷生意失敗轉開薄餅店Jacomax。正當本港食肆生意陷低谷,Jacomax今年逆市擴張,進駐尖沙咀開設第4間分店。Jacopo接受《Yahoo新聞》專訪時指,歷過選址錯誤、通關後生意暴跌種種低潮,最終憑經營YouTube頻道和人情味力挽狂瀾,希望薄餅店為港人提供享受美食和玩樂的空間,「要脫穎而出,就必須be more playful、more creative」。
年少居意大利鄉郊:以為周星馳係日本人!
Jacopo Contiero年約40歲,性格盞鬼,為融入香港苦練廣東話。這位「來佬」在港闖出一片天,始於一段浪漫愛情。他自小在意大利鄉郊成長,笑言以前對香港毫無概念,「我有睇過《少林足球》,但以為周星馳係日本人!唔知邊度係香港!」直至他20多歲到匈牙利旅行,遇上來自香港的Celine,異地戀就此萌芽。兩人本來只靠電郵、短訊維繫感情,最終Celine決定跑到意大利找Jacopo,兩人於2008年結婚,翌年回港。
Gelato店曾日僅40蚊生意:終於執笠!好開心!
Jacopo飛越9000公里來到香港,卻沒有想過打工,反而與太太創業做小本生意,「我都唔知點解嗰陣會做生意咁傻!」兩人選址西貢開意大利雪糕店,「因為我媽媽個男朋友識整雪糕,所以我先學到。就算你喺雪糕店度做,意大利師傅都唔會教你,會一邊整一邊遮住,驚你steal the jobs(搶了工作)!」不過,製作意大利雪糕成本高昂,最貴的是機器,由40萬元到過百萬元都有,「嗰陣無錢呀!用啲機唔好,搞到啲雪糕好快溶晒!」加上港人只喜歡在夏天吃雪糕,他當時不懂任何營銷策略,曾在冬天試過一天只有40元生意,最終開業6年決定結業,Jacopo笑言:「嗰陣覺得,嘩,終於執笠!好開心!好大壓力呀!」
同鄉熟客Max變金主 打本百萬元創「Jacomax」
經營雪糕店期間,Jacopo最大的得著是認識了顧客Max,後來成為同鄉摯友。Max因受店中的音樂吸引而與Jacopo打開話匣子,「我鍾意啲weird music(奇怪音樂),又會播Pink Floyd,佢咁啱又鍾意,所以我哋係因為音樂而識,都唔係好關雪糕事!」2011年,Max提議他開設薄餅店,更向他打本100萬元,「Jacomax」從此誕生,首間分店落戶上環。
請薄餅師傅甩碌 自學親身上陣: 我本身讀Chemisty
資金、地點俱備,獨欠製作薄餅的秘訣,「做Pizza師傅係最緊要!」Jacopo與Celine是餐飲業初哥,為炮製最正宗薄餅,特地從意大利聘請兩名師傅,怎料錯漏百出,「佢哋真係好奇怪!有一個試過焗緊個Pizza,跟住走開咗,去咗食煙,唔記得咗個Pizza,就burnt out(燒焦)咗囉!」Jacopo索性親身上陣,邊做邊學,「我本身係讀Chemisty(化學系),可以諗到啲formula(配方)」,又找來原本退休居住意大利的父親一同幫忙。
鎮店皇牌蘋果藍芝士薄餅 源自意式甜品
Jacomax的薄餅堅持即叫即烤,主打薄脆餅底。愛玩的Jacopo除了專攻意大利人「死穴」菠蘿薄餅,「蘋果藍芝士薄餅」也是皇牌:薄餅加上一塊塊蘋果後,中間加入古崗佐拉芝士,鹹甜交融。Jacopo指,靈感源自意大利由蘋果和芝士製成的傳統甜品,「我就諗,咦其實香港人都好鍾意食甜嘢,試吓擺落個Pizza度囉!」
業主不再企硬終減租:因為而家economy食屎!
口碑成為Jacomax的最強宣傳策略,先後於上環、銅鑼灣、將軍澳開分店,近日更逆市擴張到尖沙嘴美麗華商場。風光背後曾經歷重重危機,Jacomax約2017年一度進駐灣仔軒尼詩道,「嗰陣諗住咁近巴士站,一定ok啦!」卻慘遭滑鐵盧,雖然人流多,但店面太小,翻桌率有限,同時因貴租長期虧本,「在香港創業要非常小心」。
Jacopo續指,於香港創業並不需要擔心人流,租金才是最大的敵人,「existing landlord will not give you cheaper(現舖業主不會願意減租),所以比較容易的是結業然後change the place(重新選址)」這正是不少餐廳會選擇在原址結業,然後在同區找尋另一舖位重新開業的原因。不過,近年香港經濟轉差,Jacopo認為業主態度不再「企硬」,「而家就肯減啦!因為而家economy(經濟)『食屎』!」
生意慘跌六成:人人都去travel 客人又全部relocate
疫情期間Jacomax仍然出現人龍,卻差點捱不過通關,「2023嗰陣係好慘呀大佬!」生意額暴跌至少六成,「人人都去travel(旅遊)喇!啲客人又全部relocate(移民),同埋同landlord講叫佢平啲,landlord don't care啦!唔會幫你!」然而,Jacopo卻從未想過止蝕離場,「要放棄太容易了,如果你要放棄隨時都可以。假如你不是KOL、你不出名、又不帥,就像我一樣,你永遠不知道何時會有機會,當你有機會時就必須盡全力」。
鬼佬學講廣東話創50萬點擊:呢個language好搞笑
有危反而有機,Jacopo將創意發揮到宣傳上。一年前他創立YouTube頻道「Jacopo Only Friends」,主打「鬼佬學講廣東話」為主題製作影片。其中一條紀錄Jacopo到本地牛腩店挑戰以廣東話落單的影片,至今已突破50萬點擊,「我好鍾意講廣東話,因為呢個language(語言)好搞笑」。
開餐廳又開media:重點不是Pizza
Jacopo以往曾接受不同媒體訪問,包括杜汶澤的《喱騷》,「這讓我發現媒體是很有影響力,可以散佈一些訊息,你可以(透過媒體)接觸到幾萬人,如果你只是一間薄餅店,你何時才會接觸到這麼多人?媒體可以讓我接觸到本身不認識的客人,讓他們認識我」。他形容這是現今在香港創業的秘訣,「重點不是Pizza、食物,現在你必須要開餐廳的同時亦要設立media(媒體)」。設立頻道後亦令其生意額回升至疫情前的水平。
人情味「箍客」:你服務的是客人 不是食物
頻道宣傳吸引新顧客,Jacopo的「箍客」秘訣則是店裡的人情味,「你開餐廳,標榜食物比其他人好,這其實是應份的,你開餐廳食物當然要好;反而是human connection(與人連結),同時亦要be fun(好玩)、more creative(創意)」因此Jacopo非常重視員工的態度。有員工曾在客人用餐期間,用手指拍一拍手錶暗示夠鐘埋單,令Jacopo大怒,心想:「What the fxxk are you doing!」,那個客人也反映不會再光顧,「當然!如果是我都不會再光顧!......你服務的是客人,你不是在服務食物,human touch is the most important(人情味最重要)」。
盼做餐飲凝聚社群:connect the dots
Jacopo最近成為亞洲品牌及營銷論壇(MarketingPulse)和亞洲電子商貿論壇(eTailingPulse)的講者之一。論壇由香港貿易發展局舉辦,邀Jacopo與同業分享營銷之道。在演講那天,J他身穿鮮黃色襯衫,在一眾講者當中格外耀眼,也貫徹創業15年的心得。「在香港,各式各樣的餐廳都有。要脫穎而出,就必須be more playful、more creative(好玩、創新)。做餐飲是Hospitality(接待業)之一,就是要與人接觸,我希望最終可以connect the dots and create a community(創立社群),當喜歡我和Jacomax的image(形象),我們就可以形成社群」。
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