What a sports writer eats when he's on assignment in Maine

Boston Globe

22-07-2025

So I spent two nights in Portland, which has not-so-quietly become a
When I lived in Louisville, Ky., before moving to Boston 10 years ago, locals endorsed the city's seafood scene because of its status as a UPS hub, positing that the fish were fresher there because they arrived on nonstop flights. I recoiled and stuck with bourbon.
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There is no such issue living in Boston, of course. But the waterfront charm can be disguised by steel and glass. Portland just
feels
like seafood, with fishing boats bobbing steps from harborside restaurants.
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For dinner on my first night, I landed on
The waterfront spot with high ceilings and wood floors was bustling this Monday, but not to the point that one had to yell. Fish and shellfish sat on ice outside the open kitchen, with a sign displaying the day's oyster selections.
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For an appetizer, I ordered local mussels served in a broth of hard cider, local mustard, cream, and dill. They were plump and sweet, with a touch of salty ocean. The broth was delightful, the mustardy flavor a nice departure from more traditional white wine or tomato-based recipes.
Scenes from Portland, Maine, last month.
Adam Himmelsbach
Breads are baked in-house and have their own section on the menu, which made me eager to try the toasted slice added to this plate for dipping. There was a satisfying crack when breaking off a piece, with crumbs fluttering into the dish, and the inside was light and airy.
I'm fine being cliché, so I looked past the grilled branzino and fried fluke and zeroed in on the warm buttered Maine lobster roll. And the fact that the lobster would sit atop more fresh-baked bread was hard to resist.
I asked for the mayonnaise on the side, because warm butter doesn't need distractions. The roll was overflowing with plump, sweet, delicious chunks of lobster. I sprayed a lemon wedge on top and enjoyed every bite. The fresh-cut fries were excellent, too, although the plate did not need so many. Nevertheless, the meal was a very good start.
Dallas Mavericks forward Cooper Flagg drives the ball against Los Angeles Lakers guard DaJaun Gordon during the second half of an NBA summer league basketball game Thursday, July 10, 2025, in Las Vegas.
David Becker/Associated Press
The next day was spent in Newport, where I visited a taxidermy store, a marina, and a school, among other places, to talk to people about Flagg, who was drafted first overall by the Dallas Mavericks
I walked to
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The outdoor seating on a brick sidewalk was full, so I was led to a wood chair at a wood table pressed against a wall inside.
Another night of lobster was tempting but would have been redundant. I ordered the scallops in Pernod and cream, with farro and haricots verts. Feel free to roast me in the comments, but I was unfamiliar with
After about 20 minutes, my server said my entrée would be out in about 20 more minutes. That seemed like a lengthy wait and an unusual announcement. Then the food arrived moments later anyway.
Scenes from Portland, Maine, last month.
Adam Himmelsbach
It was served in the pan, which felt trendy. The scallops were rich and flavorful, although the insides were more lukewarm than hot. Cream sauces can be off-putting if excessively heavy, but this one was light and did not dominate the shellfish.
The farro was a nice semi-crunchy complement, and it tasted even better when brushed through the sauce.
I declined dessert because I wanted to visit a local ice cream shop. Much to my dismay, though, both nearby options closed at 9. Europeans are just sitting down for dinner at 9, and we're shutting down our ice cream shops. That doesn't sit right.
Thankfully,
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Celtics beat writer Adam Himmelsbach can be reached at
. Follow him @adamhimmelsbach
Adam Himmelsbach can be reached at