Dramatic fiords, towering cliffs, a landscape that looks like another world: This is one of Canada's most beautiful places
thestar.com/travel
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It's as iconic as the Grand Canyon or Machu Picchu or Victoria Falls, except it's in Western Newfoundland. This place of spellbinding natural beauty is one you've probably seen before, on TV commercials or social media posts: a long, winding inland fiord; cliffs rising some 700 metres on each side; frothy waterfalls plunging from far above, casting a fine mist upon any little tour boats.
'At one point, these cliffs might have been as high as the Himalayas,' says guide Shelley Hann of
BonTours
, narrating as the views keep getting better with every turn in Gros Morne National Park. She adds that she often sees moose and caribou and bear along the banks and up on the flanks. This body of water, Western Brook Pond, was a true ocean fiord until about 8,000 years ago. 'This is all freshwater,' she says, adding that it swims with salmon and arctic char, 'but we still find seashells and whale bones.'
Travellers can explore Western Brook Pond on boat excursions offered by companies such as BonTours.
Western Brook Pond is just one of the many wonders of
Gros Morne National Park
. The 1,805-square-kilometre expanse is a UNESCO World Heritage site, recognized not just for its natural beauty but also its exceptional glacial features and geological marvels.
The most famous example of the latter: the Tablelands, one of the few places in the world where you can walk on the Earth's mantle. This middle layer, below the crust, was thrust upward here during the collision of ancient continents approximately half a billion years ago.
Hiking the mantle's rusty, Mars-like splendour is one popular option. But the landscape of the Tablelands is also beautiful when you view it from below, along the shores of Bonne Bay, on a guided boat tour. Those rocks rise dramatically from the surrounding boreal forest, their orange-red hues contrasting with the green all around.
The desert-like Tablelands is one of the few places in the world where you can walk on the Earth's mantle.
'About 10,000 years ago, the glaciers receded, scraping those mountains and creating these valleys,' says Keith Payne, a guide with
Gros Morne Adventures
, navigating a path along the water. Bonne, he says, is actually a fiord, with all sorts of sea life, including minke whales you might spot a few metres from the shoreline path.
In addition to shoreline walks, experiences within the national park are manifold. And due to its relative remoteness, crowds tend to be mercifully minimal. You can hike along the headlands above the village of Trout River and never encounter another person. Or indulge in a lobster boil on the beach, with just your friends, and the fishing boats rolling by. There's even some luxury to enjoy, like sitting in an outdoor cedar hot tub at the
Gros Morne Inn
, with views of Bonne Bay and the bald dome of the park's namesake mountain spread out before you.
For hikers, Gros Morne National Park also offers more than 100 kilometres of trails, from easy to strenuous.
Taking a backcountry tour with
Under the Stump
will give you a rarely seen angle on that same summit. From the picturesque fishing town of Rocky Harbour (population: 937), co-owner Trina Reid will steer you in an off-road vehicle across the highway and onto a trail in the park. Soon, the crown of Gros Morne Mountain (height: 806 metres) will rise ahead.
The trail to the top is a popular hike, but not for the faint of heart. The 17-kilometre return trip takes the adventurous (and experienced) through challenging terrain, into an arctic-alpine environment. Those who brave it might spot rock ptarmigan or even caribou along the way. And the prize for summiting: 360-degree views that include the Ten Mile Pond gorge and the rugged Long Range Mountains.
But a tour with Reid is all about the natural beauty of the wilderness down below. She recalls that, until 1967, there was no road up the Great Northern Peninsula — which is basically all of Newfoundland north of here. 'Back then, it was either the coastal boat or dog team, or you walked it.' She jokes that despite the immensity of the wilderness, you really can't get lost: 'Just put the mountain behind you, and you'll walk to the sea.'
At the tour's end, Reid brings travellers back to a cabin she shares with her husband and co-owner, Perry, for a steaming meal of 'land and sea' (for example, moose soup and fish cakes). It pairs perfectly with the views all the way back to the rusty expanse of the Tablelands, many kilometres away.
It's just an ideal Newfoundland combination: down-home hospitality, a super-local meal and a landscape of otherworldly wonders. And something you'll only find in Gros Morne National Park.
Tim Johnson travelled as a guest of
Go Western Newfoundland
, which did not review or approve this article.
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That's a huge step forward as far as meeting people wherever they are, quite literally. Hochman: What can you say about Miraval The Red Sea? David: That Red Sea project is incredibly close to my heart. Creating our first global destination has taught us how universal this work really is. People everywhere are craving presence, meaning and space to reconnect. And the Red Sea property is just such a beautiful place to do that. It's on Shura Island on three million square feet of beaches on the southern end of the island. We doing some innovative takes on classic Miraval Resort experiences, like our Vasudhara warm-water floating meditation. Plus, we're introducing Hammam Journeys, which is a new offering within the Miraval Resorts & Spas portfolio. The project really brings the work we're doing to a new level. I'm really excited about it. How to stand out in a travel world where 'wellness' is everywhere Hochman: 'Wellness' is now everywhere, from corporate retreats and meditation apps to airport yoga rooms. In general, how does Miraval stand out? David: Well, partly because we were among the first to put healing, transformation and mindfulness at the center, we've have time to develop and adjust the programs. That means bringing in the best practitioners and figuring out what guests want and what maybe doesn't work as well. I like to say we're about practice, not performance. And we're also accessible. Conversations by the pool often go past the surface. Guests return year after year because they know they can come exactly as they are, whether they're seeking clarity, connection or just a place to exhale. We love when our guests feel safe and comfortable enough to dine in their spa robes, show their vulnerable sides in a workshop, and then want to share their stories and aha moments with our colleagues and other guests. We also created some first-of-their-kind experiences like equine therapy and aerial yoga. We created Vasudhara, our water-based meditation experience, that's a signature at our Arizona resort. And we're constantly adding new programming to meet people where they are, whether that's midlife, menopause support, new parenthood, burnout or just seeking clarity. The idea, as always, is to continue to meet our guests at whatever stage they are at in their life's journey and invite them to explore where they want to go. Classic treatments and what's next at Miraval Hochman: The equine therapy program has always been a standout. David: That's been a signature since it was created by Wyatt Webb in the early days. People sign up thinking it's going to be a lighthearted thing with horses. But it's often a catalyst. The surprise is that it's not about riding so much as it's about reflection. The horse becomes a mirror. You're understanding yourself better, in relation to the horses, with a lot of non-verbal cues and non-verbal communication. You're tapping into presence, body language, listening, confidence. It's really quite profound and at this point, the program is really part of the Miraval DNA. Hochman: Now that Miraval has celebrated the big 3-0, what's next for the brand? David: We're constantly evolving. In 2025, in addition to Miraval The Red Sea, we've introduced new workshops focused on creative expression, sexuality and relationships, and life transitions pre-natal, post-partum, and peri-menopause. We have some new fitness experiences that encourage active play and we're continuing to expand our outdoor adventure offerings to help guests connect more deeply with nature and with themselves. I always say that whether it's a first visit or a tenth, there's always something new to discover, because our approach to well-being is so responsive and always rooted in meaning. The interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.
