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Miami Herald

No reservations and no menu: This new Coconut Grove spot serves only one main dish

You may remember when 3190 Commodore Plaza was Vicky's House, the retro spot that specialized in over-the-top milkshakes and was designed to look like a 1980s kitchen. Now, 3190 means lasagna — and only lasagna. 3190 is the third Miami concept from 84 Magic Hospitality, this time in collaboration with Miami's Kush Hospitality. The 84 Magic group has become known for its minimalist menu restaurants, starting with Cotoletta, which also serves only one dish (veal Milanese) and San Lorenzo, which serves only two (pasta with meat or pasta with seafood). Located just around the corner from Cotoletta in Coconut Grove, 3190 will only offer 'Si Papa' lasagna, so named for what Chef Giulio Rossi's daughter said every time she was offered the dish. It's a traditional Bolognese lasagna, but for those who prefer their lasagna meatless, there's a vegetarian option served with pesto, peas and green beans. The restaurant, which 84 Magic calls a 'lasagna speakeasy,' has only 24 seats and has priced its lasagna at $15. The perfect wine pairing, Rossi says, is the Villa Di Corlo Lambrusco from Modena, Italy, but there are other reds and whites if you'd prefer something else. You can also order tiramisu for dessert. Because of its proximity, 3190 can also be used as an alternative for guests waiting to be seated at the popular Cotoletta on busy nights. 'Instead of turning guests away, we can now offer them something equally special next door,' co-founder Andrea Fraquelli said. 'This is another way we can ensure our guests are always being taken care of.' As with its other restaurants, 3190 won't have a menu and does not offer delivery (although you can call ahead and pick up takeout). There will be no reservations accepted, either, which goes along with 84 Magic's ethos of simplicity. At Cotoletta and San Lorenzo, you can't make a reservation online or through an app; you have to actually call the restaurant. Fraquelli was inspired to create the streamlined approach to menus after watching customers at his London restaurants order the same dishes over and over. Customers almost never deviated from what they loved best. 'That sowed a seed,' he told the Miami Herald in June when San Lorenzo opened. 'It wasn't so risky to reduce the number of choices.' 3190 Where: 3190 Commodore Plaza, Miami Hours: 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 5:30-10:30 p.m. Friday; noon-3 p.m. and 5:30-10:30 p.m. Saturday; noon-3 p.m., 5:30-9 p.m. Sunday Follow: @sipapa.3190