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The Star
29-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Star
Yellow Fin Horse 2.0: Casual, communal dining with a Mediterranean soul
If you walk into Kuala Lumpur's Yellow Fin Horse today, you'll instantly feel a subtle, but tangible shift in energy. The restaurant has undergone a months-long makeover and now that it has reopened, the transformation is instantly noticeable. It begins with the meals themselves – which are less fastidious and more focused on communality, rooted in a series of shared plates that draw from sunny Mediterranean culinary influences. The new lounge is positioned at the edge of the open kitchen – an invitation to relax after a fulfilling meal. This is Yellow Fin Horse Season 2. The eatery now has a lounge where diners can opt to relax during or after a meal. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star 'If you look at the restaurant, there are little modifications here and there, but the drastic change is in the spirit of the restaurant. It's everything that's thought out – it's the music programme, the space, the lighting, all the soft touches. 'Our food has also resonated that change because we want to make it more relaxed. We're focused on Mediterranean flavours, but it's based on small plates and more casual vibes. "You don't feel conformed into a certain format of eating,' explains Jun Wong, Else Kuala Lumpur's culinary director. (Else KL is the hotel within which Yellow Fin Horse is housed.) The eatery's new look has transformed the soul of the restaurant and given it a more casual feel while still retaining an air of sophistication. — Else KL Wong has been with the restaurant since its inception a few years ago and has supervised the food aspect of the eatery's shake-up, incorporating Mediterranean influences whilst still holding true to her stance of making everything from scratch. To ease into a meal here, start with the range of dips and spreads, like the Labneh (RM28). Labneh is a soft Middle Eastern cheese made from strained yoghurt. In Wong's iteration, the yoghurt is made from scratch in-house and infused with salted plums, pistachios, Tualang honey and mint oil in what proves to be a fresh, silken, tangy spread with hints of effervescence veined throughout its internal structure. Then there is the Baba Ganoush (RM28) which is a luxuriant roasted eggplant dip reinforced with pine nuts and given a creative twist with curry leaf oil. The curry leaf oil effects a subtle Indian undercurrent to the dish, lending it a stealthy new identity while still paying homage to its roots and heritage. It's a clever use of something new infused into something old. Wong is the creative juggernaut behind Yellow Fin Horse's new Mediterranean-influenced fare. — Photos: Else KL Perhaps the breakout star of the trio of dips on offer is the Burnt Butter Pumpkin Hummus (RM28) with maple glazed pepita (pumpkin seeds) clusters. This whipped goodie is decadence in a bowl. It's creamy, buttery and utterly seductive. In fact, you'll find yourself side-eyeing it constantly even through the most riveting conversation – as you contemplate treating yourself to yet another mouthful (word to the wise: please do!). Dips and spreads would be nothing without a receptacle to mop it all up with. Of what's on offer, look at the Challah (RM12 per loaf) which is a burnished golden bread with soft, tender insides perfect for soaking up all the flavours of the dips. The restaurant's range of dips (from left: labneh, baba ganoush and pumpkin hummus) are very, very good. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star Move on to more filling fare with the Surf & Turf Crostino (RM48) which is made up of two different kinds of crostinos (fried or toasted bread). The first is topped with smoked trout rillette from Tasmania that has been smoked with charcoal over low heat so that – in Wong's words – 'it is fully cooked but still has that raw sort of bouncy bite'. The trout is divine – slightly smoky like the air that surrounds a barbecue – but without being charred within an inch of its life. Instead, you'll find fish that has retained the spring in its step and the vitality in its flesh. This is enlivened by a lightly pungent wasabi mayonnaise as well as capers to give it a salt-laced edge. The surf and turf crostino serves up both trout (bottom) and duck. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star The turf part of this duo is made up of confit duck leg that has been shredded and enhanced with mustard mayonnaise and spring onions. This is probably going to be the less popular of the two options as it has a sturdier, gamier taste that is only slightly offset by the mustard mayonnaise. If, however, you're a fan of the natural flavours of this avian creature, then you'll enjoy the more unvarnished features of this meal. For more substantial selections designed to be shared, look at indulging in the Grilled Sea Prawns (RM92). The interesting – or some might say – unusual – thing about this dish is the addition of a chilled cannellini bean salad that sits at the base of the platter. Charcoal grilled prawns and cannellini beans may not sound like ideal bedfellows but the two work remarkably well together. — Else KL It might sound ominous and dichotomous in theory but Wong continually succeeds in making the impossible possible. The prawns here are fat and fleshy with a slight char on the surface that lend itself to succulent, tender flesh within. This blistered goodness is countenanced by the fresh bean salad which adds a contrasting element to the meal and takes it to a whole new two-dimensional level. Perhaps the biggest triumph on Wong's new menu is an unassuming pasta dish called Sage Butter Pumpkin Gnocchi (RM45). The sage butter pumpkin gnocchi is a thing of beauty that is both indulgent and addictive. — Else KL Here, the gnocchi has been absolutely saturated with butter (and yes, I do mean saturated) and this unctuousness adds instant hedonism to the dappled plumpness of each gnocchi – which has rich pumpkin nuances. This nirvanic bliss is then given a refreshing twist courtesy of the homemade ricotta and pine nuts swirled into the mix. This is a meal that will linger in your dreams (at least it lingers in mine) long after you've polished the plate clean. In a world of ephemeral pleasures, this meal is a keeper. 'The inspiration for this dish was a sage and pine nut pasta that I had 10 years ago at Melbourne's famous Tipo 00. It was so good that I locked it in the back of my mind and I thought, 'If I ever do put a pasta dish onto my menu, I need to recreate this flavour'. 'The next time I go back to Tipo 00, I'm going to give it another taste. Because now I have a feeling mine is probably better than theirs,' says Wong, laughing. To end your meal and keep the smile on your face going with a sweet, sweet send-off, try the Deconstructed Vegan Pavlova (RM28). The vegan pavlova is fresh and fruity with a tropical underbelly. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star Enhanced with lemon passionfruit, coconut cream and mixed berries, this 100% vegan dish has been strung together out of sheer creativity. For example, the lemon passionfruit curd has been crafted using coconut oil while the pavlova meringue is made out of aquafaba (the cooking liquid from chickpeas). Overall, it's a lively dessert that has hints of acidity, pops of citrus and an underlying tropical quality that gives it a touch of something familiar while couched in entirely new surrounds. Moving forward, Wong says the plan is to keep the chilled-out, laidback vibes she has cultivated through the food programme and enhance this with themed after-hours nights. 'There will be a lot of things that we're going to introduce and then repeat quarterly or monthly or something like that. So there's going to be late-night after-hours music programmes and maybe after-hours food for people in the restaurant industry,' says Wong enthusiastically. Yellow Fin Horse Address: Level 4, Else Kuala Lumpur, 145 Jalan Tun H S Lee, 50000, KL Tel: 018-211 0313 Open Wednesday to Sunday: 6pm to midnight
The Star
08-07-2025
- Business
- The Star
Japanese outlet Nikaku serves a pork-free, alcohol-free omakase menu for all
Perched in a quiet nook in Lot 10's Isetan department store in Kuala Lumpur is Nikaku. The restaurant is a tiny little oasis of calm, bookmarked by an open kitchen bordered by a long counter dotted with chairs. Interestingly, Nikaku is an offshoot of KL's famed Sushi Azabu, which itself is a sister restaurant of the original Michelin-starred Sushi Azabu in New York, United States. The creative force behind Nikaku is executive chef Masaki Arakawa, a charismatic, seasoned Japanese culinary maven who trained in kaiseki in Nagoya, and went to sushi school in Osaka. Arawaka also helms KL's Sushi Azabu although mostly from a managerial perspective now. Nikaku emerged because Arakawa had married a Malaysian woman and embraced Islam. After converting, he realised there was a dearth of Japanese omakase restaurants and sushi restaurants that were pork-free and alcohol-free. So he decided to create one. Arakawa is the talented chef behind Nikaku's inclusive omakase sushi menus. 'Most of the high-end Japanese omakase restaurants use alcohol, so it is very hard to find a restaurant that caters to everyone. So we decided to make Nikaku a sushi omakase space for all Malaysians to enjoy the food,' he says. The kitchen team consists entirely of Malaysian chefs trained at Sushi Azabu or under Arakawa's watchful eye. While the food is alcohol-free and pork-free, the restaurant itself is not halal certified as the beverage list includes alcoholic options. Arakawa says that initially, there was scepticism about the restaurant's core ethos as people couldn't fathom what he was trying to do. 'For the first few months, people didn't understand why we were doing this omakase menu without alcohol, because omakase without alcohol hasn't really been done before. But gradually they started to understand the concept,' he says. At Nikaku, all the staff are locals who are trained in the art of sushi-making. This is done by design so if new branches are opened, local chefs will be put in charge. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star Arakawa adds that having a menu like this means it is much easier for him to cater to larger corporate events without having to struggle to find recipes or adapt existing ones. At Nikaku, there are plenty of sushi omakase menus to whet the appetite, but if you have the time, look at indulging in the eatery's signature Malaya Mae Omakase (RM398 per person). There is a conscious effort to use as many local ingredients as possible on the menu, so you'll discover a wealth of ingredients that reflect Malaysian sea and soil. Highlights from the menu include the seasonal sip, or Japanese onion soup infused with soy milk. The soup is a nourishing, satiating winner that has hints of allium fused into its internal blueprint, giving it a divergent slant that ends up being wholly memorable. The teriyaki chicken features beautifully grilled chicken with a blistered, lightly charred outer core that segues to incredibly tender meat. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star The teriyaki chicken is part of the Arang Bakar course of the menu and features chicken slathered in a teriyaki sauce that incorporates the use of white corn from Cameron Highlands. The chicken is cooked over a Japanese Binchotan grill and retains a lovely blistered outer surface that melds into juicy, succulent meat inside. The smoked yellowtail with ponzu sauce is another revelatory affair that highlights the suppleness of the fish against a smoky backdrop that casts it in a mysterious glow. The smoked yellowtail sashimi is a silken temptress with a decadent mouthfeel. — Photos: ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star One of the most memorable offerings on the menu is definitely the locally-sourced green river prawn crusted with a miso mayonnaise. Here, the fleshy, voluptuous sweetness of the prawn is juxtaposed against the creamy, umami-laced richness of the mayonnaise in what proves to be one of the most successful marriages to emerge from a meal here. Sushi is one of the highlights of the omakase menu and there is a rich range of mostly Japanese fish and other aquatics to fill your belly. Arakawa says this was a decision that was made after every effort was expended to incorporate local seafood into sushi – an endeavour that failed miserably. The mackerel sushi features a slightly oily, supple slice of fish that also has a dab of spring onions and ginger for contrast. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star 'Normally when we age Japanese fish, it becomes more umami and the flavour becomes more intense. "But when we did it with the local fish, it became more fishy. And we tried with so many fish – like grouper and nyok nyok – but it just didn't work, so we shifted to Japanese ingredients,' he explains. From what's on the table, indulge in the Japanese aji (mackerel) sushi with spring onion and ginger. The sushi is light and delicate with fish that has attributes of the sea harbouring beneath its supple, slightly oleaginous flesh. The rice in this configuration is moulded to the fish and offers just enough starch to tie this all together beautifully. The salmon sushi features fat, voluptuously silken fish draped atop rice. Then there is the shima aji or amberjack sushi, which is drizzled with yuzu skin shavings for a touch of acidity. The amberjack is plump and has a silk-like quality that makes it almost dissolve in the mouth upon contact. Last but not least is the salmon sushi, which features salmon marinated in miso paste. The salmon here is fat and velvety to the touch and this unctuousness is countenanced by the rice and vinegar that lines its base and gives it a heartfelt culmination that peaks in complete and total euphoria. The chawanmushi is sensationally good. Next up is Nikaku's chawanmushi, which is honestly a thing of beauty. The steamed egg custard is cloudy, pillowy soft and this goodness is accentuated by the glossy ikura pearls layered atop, which add richness and umami to this comfort food. The chirashi bowl served next features marinated raw uni (sea urchin), salmon, tuna and scallops sliced into pieces and scattered over a bed of rice in what proves to be a hedonistic dive into delicious underwater territory. Sliced sea urchin, salmon, tuna and scallop will vie for your affections in this delicious bowl of chirashi. Ultimately, a meal at Nikaku takes diners on a journey of discovery through the wonders of Japanese sushi and omakase culture. It's also interesting that a meal here never makes you point out the omission of pork or alcohol on the menu, mostly because you won't even notice they're missing. The food speaks for itself – and that's saying a lot. Which is why Arakawa is so keen to expand Nikaku's footprint overseas. In fact, the determined chef has already set his sights on the Middle East. 'I did a lot of market research a few months ago and because we are focusing on the Muslim market, I see a lot of potential in places like Dubai, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and Bahrain. 'There are many sushi restaurants there but the quality is not like in Malaysia, so I want to elevate it. Hopefully I can find a good partner or investor to work with and open Nikaku in the Middle East,' says Arakawa, smiling. Open daily: 12pm to 3pm; 6pm to 11pm
The Star
06-05-2025
- Business
- The Star
A hot meal with a show at Benihana, a famed US teppanyaki restaurant, now in KL
The man standing before me is dashing and presumably handsome – he's wearing a mask, so I can't be 100% sure, but if his face matches his charm, odds are high that he is. Fast as a flash, he adds hot oil to an even hotter teppanyaki grill, then sets it on fire. 'Fire in the hole!' he yells as flames flare up and flicker skyward, like something straight out of a television scene. When the fire dies down, he continues stirring, adding ingredients and talking. 'And now I'll add a little Japanese Coca-Cola to this,' he jokes as he drizzles some soy sauce over a sizzling, hissing concoction of rice, eggs and garlic, smoking on a hot teppanyaki grill. After the food is served, he asks, 'How did you enjoy the food?' 'Oh, it was very nice,' I chirp. 'You're very nice,' he says slowly and rather flirtatiously, before we both burst into laughter. This is the sense of banter, theatrics and culinary showmanship on display at the spanking new Benihana Malaysia, perched on the fourth floor of the upscale Suria KLCC. If the name Benihana sounds familiar, that's because it is. The culinary theatre on display features an exciting fire show that is sure to mesmerise diners. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star In the United States, Benihana has a storied history that dates back to 1964 when Rocky Aoki launched the first Japanese teppanyaki restaurant. The eatery, which opened in New York, became nationally acclaimed as culinary theatrics – and teppanyaki – were both unheard of at the time. The formula worked and Benihana has since grown and expanded its global footprint with outlets in Dubai, Singapore and the Caribbean, to name a few. A week ago, Benihana finally opened in Kuala Lumpur, under the stewardship of the Continuum Hospitality Group, which also operates restaurants like Cili Kampung and Stefania. 'We thought Benihana would be more of a fun dining experience, which I think a lot of people are looking for these days. This brand is nostalgic and it was very famous 30 to 40 years ago from all the American movies and sitcoms and stuff. 'And I think now that social media is so big it's a great time to bring the brand because people like being able to post online about their experiences,' explains Kesavan Purusotman, who leads Continuum Hospitality Group. Kesavan (left) and Kyran are the creative forces behind Benihana Malaysia. — Benihana Malaysia Kesavan and the group's director, Kyran Arusalm, decided to adapt a franchise model that was similar to the Benihana in Singapore. As a consequence, the theatrical elements so prominent at the tableside seating where diners get to watch the teppanyaki chefs in action, is limited to just 12 seats a slot. Each slot is for two hours and during this time, diners get to indulge in a multi-course kaiseki menu. The rest of the restaurant is taken up by a wide dining area that seats 60 people and utilises a fast-moving a la carte menu. Around the corner is a huge private dining room, which seats 40 and has a separate menu not available at the main restaurant. If you're going to Benihana for the first time, definitely pre-book your seats at the teppanyaki counter. After all, this is reflective of the true Benihana experience that shot the restaurant to fame. At the moment, there is a relatively long waiting list and seats at the counter have been booked out for two weeks solid. The teppanyaki counter is where all the action happens and is what transformed Benihana into a household name. — Benihana Malaysia This is also the part of the restaurant that Kyran and Kesavan say was the most challenging to execute. 'I think the hardest part was finding the teppanyaki chefs themselves. Because there are three aspects to it – cooking, action and interaction with customers. A chef that is able to do all three at once is very, very hard to come by. We actually had to send our chefs to Singapore for training,' says Kyran. Thankfully, the selected chefs tick all the right boxes. If you're lucky enough to bag a seat at the dining counter, opt for the Midori Kaiseki Course, priced at RM248 per person. The fried tofu highlights its smooth, silken qualities. Highlights from the menu include the Hot Appetiser, which features a slab of fried tofu with kombu. The tofu is silken smooth and wobbly to the touch and has a crisp outer skin that is complemented by the umami qualities of the kombu. One of Benihana Malaysia's signature items is the Beni Egg Roll, which is made right in front of you with a crab stick and then rolled tightly and topped with Japanese mayonnaise. This is one of the highlights of the eatery and it is a creamy, eggy vixen that is plump and filling and utterly satisfying from start to finish. From the kaiseki menu, diners will get to choose seafood items like grilled cod or grilled scallops, both of which are delicious. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star Part of the meal also involves choosing two seafood options like Hokkaido scallops, large prawns or wild-caught cod fish. The scallops are particularly memorable – voluptuous and silken with soft, tender flesh within and a lovely caramelised carapace on the surface. The cod fish meanwhile is lovely and buttery with an unctuous underbelly and a firm yet tenderly yielding countenance. The wagyu steak features tender, melt-in-the-mouth meat cooked to perfection. — Photos: ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star The kaiseki menu also allows you to choose one meat and in this instance, the Japanese A4 wagyu steak is an excellent option. The meat is grilled to your preferred doneness and I had it medium rare. The wagyu has a sturdy, burnished crust that succumbs to meat that is pink and flush in the centre and pliant and malleable to the touch on the palate, lending itself to a melt-in-the-mouth textural odyssey that engenders pure, unvarnished pleasure. The burnt onion soup is delicious from start to finish. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star One of the mainstays in the Benihana global universe is the Beni Onion Soup, which features a charred onion flower immersed in a soup rife with rich allium flavours. This is a soup whose murky looks belie just how tantalisingly good it is – a sumptuous affair whose nourishing nuances make it a surprising comfort dish. The garlic fried rice is one of the show-stopping offerings at Benihana. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star A dish that has become legendary at the restaurant is the Garlic Fried Rice, which is a fantastic voyage through grains and garlic with fluffy bits of egg added in for good measure. The entire dish is built around garlicky goodness interspersed and embedded into the molecular structure of the rice and fried to golden goodness with bits of smoky crust intertwined in this configuration, giving it an unforgettable addictive quality. End your meal with the wonderful qualities of the Japanese milk pudding with black syrup. For dessert, there is a Japanese milk pudding topped with sweet pools of Japanese black syrup drizzled all over it. The pudding is a cloudy, fluffy affair that is velvety soft and enhanced entirely by the black syrup which is sweet and toffee-esque with divine molasses undertones. Moving forward, Kesavan and Kyran are keen to expand the Benihana empire in Malaysia and plans are already afoot to execute this. 'There will be another Benihana outlet for sure. Maybe not this year or anytime soon, but it will happen for sure,' says Kyran. Address: 4th floor, Suria KLCC, 50088 Kuala Lumpur
