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Metro
18-05-2025
- Metro
Everything I ate during a weekend pintxos hopping in San Sebastián
San Sebastián is the crown jewel of the Basque region that runs along Spain's dazzling northern coast. It's a beach town turned Michelin hotspot with world-class cuisine — seriously, wear loose trousers. The city, known as Donostia in Basque, lies on the Bay of Biscay, its Old Town flanked by two sandy beaches, where you'll find streets filled with photogenic bars serving up mouthwatering local tapas and cider. San Sebastián started life as a fishing village in 1180, and enjoyed a revival as a seasonal holiday spot in the 19th-century, when Queen Isabel II chose it as her summer residence. This is a place rich in history and scenery, with sweeping views of La Concha beach best enjoyed from high atop Monte Igueldo. Its winding streets come alive each September for the San Sebastián International Film Festival, but its star quality is, undisputedly, the food. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. With the second-most Michelin stars per capita and an enviable claim to the title of most bars per person, this is a destination for people who eat differently. The Basques even have a name for it: pintxo , aka hopping from bar to bar and sampling bite-size bits of culinary art. Fresh from a flying visit to the place known as Europe's most beautiful bay, here's everywhere I ate, and alternative things to do, in fabulous San Sebastián. San Sebastián's status as a contemporary food stop can be traced to the late Anthony Bourdain, who visited the city three times for his shows A Cook's Tour, No Reservations, and Parts Unknown. He spoke of the deep connection between cuisine and community, emphasising that meals are less about food, more about bringing people together. Bourdain made several repeat visits to restaurants across the city, something he rarely did. All of that said, ordering at a pintxos bar is not for the meek. Not only will you struggle to find an English menu at more old-school spots, you'll need to claim your space at the counter — make yourself known when you want to order, just as Bourdain would have done. Etiquette is everything, so move along swiftly once you've hoovered down your grub. Otherwise, you're at risk of attracting a brusque 'vamos!' from over your shoulder. The bars are set up so you order a pintxos (pronounced 'peen-chos') or two alongside a drink, at just a few euros each. They're essentially a small snack, typically served on a piece of bread and skewered with a toothpick. From anchovies and olives to jamon and seafood, the variety is astounding. Each bar is generally known for one particular pintxos, be it the fois gras or urchin cream at Bar Sport, grilled mushrooms with egg yolk from Ganbara, or anchovies at Bar Txepetxa. More popular spots will be crowded with tourists and locals alike; be prepared for a lot of shouting and pointing. It's almost like a sport, and the best thing to do is lean in and resign yourself to the chaos. While pintxos is designed to be eaten quickly, some bars have seating and in the case of La Cuchara De San Telmo, it's worth planning ahead to nab one of its four tables for the evening session. Having seen a lot of recommendations for this place on TikTok and beyond, we knew it would be a fight for the bar. Arriving 20 minutes before doors opened for dinner, we scored ourselves a spot outside, where we could spend a little longer enjoying glasses of red at €2.80 (£2.30) a pop and trying its specialties without getting an elbow in the ribs from other diners. Runaway winners were the suckling pig (€19, £16.10), expertly seasoned steak (€17, £14.40), salty, oiled peppers (€9, £7.60) and oreja de cerdo aka pig's ear (€14, £11.80). Don't knock it, it's delicious and looks more like a folded omelette than animal anatomy. While most of the famous pintxos spots are confined to the walls of the Old Town, a short walk opens up another realm of amazing eats. To the east of the Old Town is the Gros neighbourhood, where you'll find local-approved spots such as the unpretentious Ricardo Taberna. Here you'll be joined by old, suntanned men yelling at TV screens and punters enjoying a drink outside. Two ciders, two croquettes and a slice of the most delicious cod tortilla set me back €11.30 (£9.50). A street away is Casa Galicia, where a plate of paprika-seasoned Octopus will relieve you of only €4 (£3.30). Get two. The region is known for its cider (or cidre ), and a 10-minute taxi from San Sebastián's centre will take you to Astigarraga, the home of the drink. Book a long lunch at one of these cider houses before you visit and you're guaranteed an incredible afternoon. We took a table at Astarbe Sagardotegia, a cider house that's been in operation since 1563, with the 15th-generation producing the latest bottles while the kitchen turns out velvety T-bone steaks and cod omelettes. Once you take your seat, you're handed a glass and, without invitation, you can make your way to a small room with several giant barrels filled with various ciders. There you'll be met by a trained txotxero (or cider master), who uses a key to open one of the barrels as a stream of golden liquid arcs out, ready to be caught by your outstretched glass. Don't be alarmed if you get more on the ground than in your glass on the first attempt. San Sebastián may be known for pintxos, but that doesn't mean you should sleep on its desserts. The creamed buns of Otaegui patisserie will set you back €2.25 (£1.90), so it's financially prudentto indulge. We walked along munching slabs of its hazelnut-laden milk and dark chocolate, snapped into sizes of your choosing and paid by the weight. Basque cheesecake is a speciality of the region, and La Vina's claim to fame is that it was the first to make it. Despite its newfound popularity on TikTok, it's well worth a visit, but there is no need to wait longer than 20 minutes. We went at 9pm when it was arguably at peak service, and were hastily ushered in to find any available space and force our way to the bar. Politely, of course. At a time when few things live up to expectation, a slice of this dessert truly is worth the hype. Each forkful delivers a masterpiece of creamy, soft wonder. It was so good it felt wrong to wolf it down in the hotel room, and I wanted to return several times over my few days in the city. One set me back €6.50 (£5.50). Fed, watered and bursting at the seams, a short funicular ride will bring you to Monte Igueldo, where you're rewarded with breathtaking views of the region. More Trending There's a hotel and a restaurant should you want a wine, but the fun is the small amusement fair which runs on the mountain. From a slightly questionable Casa Del Terror to the Mysterious River ride along a narrow waterway, there's plenty to entertain kids and big kids alike. While the Old Town is brimming with cultural history, the new town boasts a shopping district that will challenge you not to burn serious cash. From high street stores like Zara and Mango, to Sephora and a range of Spanish designers including Bimba Y Lola, there's something to suit every taste after a long day of eating. Getting to San Sebastián There are no direct flights from the UK to San Sebastián, but you can fly to nearby airports like Bilbao, then take a bus or train. From Bilbao, the bus is around 1.5 hours and will set you back anywhere from £7 to £17, depending on the operator. Vueling flies direct from London Gatwick to Bilbao with flights starting from £43. Where to stay Best value: Okako, located in Gros, is stylish in its simplicity and only a 15-minute walk from the Old Town and only 10 from Zurriola beach. Perfect for those who 'don't spend any time in the hotel room anyway' but still appreciate the touches of a coffee machine and a fruit bowl with muffins, single rooms start at €99 (£83.90) a night. Best splurge: If you want to splash out, Hotel Maria Cristina, located in between the old and new towns, was designed in 1912 by the same architect behind the Ritz in Paris. Now owned by the Marriott chain, expect total 5-star luxury. Of course, that comes at a cost, with lower rate rooms in June available for £641 per night. MORE: What's Cooking? I worked in cabin crew for 12 years — avoid these five foods on planes MORE: 'Lively' European city named world's most walkable and flights are just £66 MORE: Spain risks major fine from Eurovision Song Contest by persisting with political message


Tatler Asia
13-05-2025
- Tatler Asia
10 books about travel that will spark your wanderlust
2. 'Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail' by Cheryl Strayed Above 'Wild From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail' by Cheryl Strayed (Photo: Vintage) Cheryl Strayed's memoir is more than a tale of hiking boots and blisters. Traversing over a thousand miles of the Pacific Crest Trail alone, she unpacks grief, failure and the slow, healing rhythm of putting one foot in front of the other. Wild stands out among books about travel for its raw honesty—this is not a romanticised journey, but one that earns its transformation mile by gruelling mile. 3. 'The Alchemist' by Paulo Coelho Above 'The Alchemist' by Paulo Coelho (Photo: HarperOne) Paulo Coelho's philosophical tale of a young Andalusian shepherd who dreams of treasure in the Egyptian pyramids has become a global touchstone for spiritual seekers. Along the way, Santiago meets desert dwellers, merchants and mystics. While some roll their eyes at its aphorisms, it remains an enduring reminder that the most compelling books about travel are often the ones that take you inward as much as outward. 4. 'The Lost City of Z' by David Grann Above 'The Lost City of Z' by David Grann (Photo: Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group) A gripping blend of biography and historical adventure, this non-fiction narrative follows British explorer Percy Fawcett's obsessive quest for a mythical city in the Amazon. David Grann interweaves Fawcett's journals with his own trek into the jungle, revealing the line between ambition and madness. For fans of perilous expeditions, this is one of those books about travel that reads like a fever dream. 5. 'A Year in Provence' by Peter Mayle Above 'A Year in Provence' by Peter Mayle (Photo: Vintage) Peter Mayle's memoir of buying a farmhouse in Provence is less about adventure and more about immersion. With dry humour and a keen eye for detail, he chronicles the region's eccentric locals, seasonal rituals and culinary pleasures. The book doesn't shy away from the bureaucratic and logistical headaches of relocation, making it a grounded yet charming addition to any collection of books about travel. 6. 'A Cook's Tour' by Anthony Bourdain Above 'A Cook's Tour' by Anthony Bourdain (Photo: Bloomsbury Publishing) Long before he became a global icon, Anthony Bourdain wrote A Cook's Tour —a globe-spanning, sharp-tongued food memoir that proves cuisine is one of the most intimate ways to know a place. From the markets of Vietnam to a Russian military base, his prose is as raw and unsentimental as the meals he describes. It's one of the few books about travel that reads with the bite of noir fiction. 7. 'The God of Small Things' by Arundhati Roy Above 'The God of Small Things' by Arundhati Roy (Photo: Random House Trade Paperbacks) While not a travelogue, Arundhati Roy's Booker Prize-winning novel is steeped in place. Set in Kerala, India, it offers a lush, tragic portrait of childhood, caste and forbidden love. The setting is inseparable from the narrative, described with such sensuality and specificity that readers unfamiliar with the region will feel they've been dropped into its monsoon-soaked heart. This is a literary reminder that some books about travel don't involve a plane ticket. 8. 'Under the Tuscan Sun' by Frances Mayes Above 'Under the Tuscan Sun' by Frances Mayes (Photo: Bantam) Frances Mayes' memoir of restoring an abandoned villa in Tuscany walks a fine line between reverie and reality. Her love of Italian food, landscape and architecture spills across the pages, but so do her frustrations with Italian bureaucracy and renovation woes. Less about travel and more about building a life abroad, it remains a favourite among readers seeking books about travel that blend aspiration with authenticity. 9. 'Into the Wild' by Jon Krakauer Above 'Into the Wild' by Jon Krakauer (Photo: Anchor Books) Christopher McCandless' fatal journey into the Alaskan wilderness has become mythologised—equal parts cautionary tale and manifesto. Jon Krakauer's investigation raises questions about freedom, recklessness and the modern craving for solitude. As far as books about travel go, it's one of the most haunting, probing not only what it means to venture far from home, but why some people feel they must. 10. 'Eat, Pray, Love' by Elizabeth Gilbert Above 'Eat, Pray, Love' by Elizabeth Gilbert (Photo: Riverhead Books) Often imitated, occasionally derided and widely beloved, Elizabeth Gilbert's memoir traces her post-divorce pilgrimage through Italy, India and Bali. Though it sparked a wave of self-discovery tourism, the book itself is self-aware, funny and emotionally intelligent. It's a reminder that books about travel can serve as both map and mirror, showing not just where we might go, but who we might become along the way.
Yahoo
05-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Anthony Bourdain's Rule Of Thumb For A Perfect Cheeseburger
There are few dishes quite as tried and true as a good old-fashioned cheeseburger. While the fast food cheeseburger once sold for just five cents by White Castle has evolved over the years, the key to good burgers generally, according to Anthony Bourdain, was simple. It's all about keeping in mind the inherent genius (and deliciousness) of the basic recipe -- and how easy it is to eat. The beloved celebrity chef explained as much in a discussion with Insider Tech back in 2016 when he described the perfect burger, noting the most important things to remember when crafting the world-renowned dish. The key to his ideal burger? "In a perfect world, you should be able to eat a burger with one hand and get a representative chunk of all the elements," said the chef (via YouTube). Bourdain was a big fan of burgers, describing them as "the ultimate bar food" in "A Cook's Tour" (via YouTube). But he had a clear philosophy when it came to modifying a traditional cheeseburger. "You have to ask yourself, 'Is this thing I'm doing to this perfectly good, classic dish, is it making it better?'" he asked. "You might deconstruct it in a way that impresses people, delights them, or astounds them, but does it make it better?" Perhaps it's not surprising, then, that Bourdain loved one particular fast food chain -- In-N-Out -- for its simple yet tasty fare. Needless to say, Anthony Bourdain had a great appreciation for minimalist burgers, which he believed were all about a good-quality beef patty, meltable cheese, and a soft potato (not brioche) bun. There shouldn't be too many unique toppings that distract from the beauty of the burger itself -- and stop you from being able to eat it with one hand. This concept is a popular one among food fans, with us here at The Takeout also favoring classical toppings like onions, pickles, and ketchup when ranking the best and worst burger toppings known to mankind. Bourdain further explained his stance on the makeup of a perfect cheeseburger and the toppings that are on it. "I like a blue cheese burger, but as with all things you cook, there are trade-offs," he said (via YouTube). "I like lettuce on a burger, maybe even a tomato is nice, but it makes it structurally more difficult to eat." It helps, of course, to add burger toppings in the right order -- though some are certainly more risky than others when it comes to a burger's structural integrity. It's not that the chef wanted a small, compact burger -- Kobe beef sliders were a bougie burger trend Bourdain couldn't stand -- but simplicity was a highly important aspect of the classic dish for him. "One of the greatest sins in burgerdom, I think, is making a burger that's just difficult to eat," he said.