Latest news with #ANDAM
Fashion United
30-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion United
ANDAM Fashion Awards: 2025's 11 finalists revealed
The 35th edition of the ANDAM Fashion Awards competition has unveiled its eleven finalists for 2025. The five nominees for the Grand Prize and the Special Prize are Alain Paul, Egonlab, Meryll Rogge, Willy Chavarria and Zomer, while six finalists have been selected for the Pierre Bergé and Fashion Accessories prizes. ANDAM president Sidney Toledano, together with both permanent and guest 2025 jury members, will now deliberate and chose the winners from those shortlisted. The recipient of the Grand Prize will be awarded 300,000 euros, while 100,000 euros will go to the recipient of the Special Prize. Alainpaul AW25 Credits: Lauchmetrics 5 finalists for the Grand Prize and Special Prize Alain Paul, designer of the eponymous brand Alainpaul, has an rooted in a fundamental trend: balletcore. Since his debut on the Parisian scene, Paul has presented his collections at Paris' Théâtre du Châtelet, a symbolic venue that reinforces his DNA. The designer is also currently competing for the LVMH 2025 prize. Parisian label EgonLab, founded by Kévin Nompeix and Florentin Glémarec, is pitted as a major outsider. Since its debut in 2019, the brand has been well praised for its ability to merge genderless tailoring with the punk spirit. The duo already won the Pierre Bergé prize in 2021. Meryll Rogge studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, before working for Dries Van Noten, then at Marc Jacobs in New York. For autumn/winter 2025, Rogge showed in Paris, exploring the art of layering, with a collection that mixed and matched outerwear in a haphazard manner. Willy Chavarria made a name for himself during Paris Fashion Week in March 2025 by parading a resolutely anti-Trump message. The Mexican-American fashion designer incorporates messages related to Latino identity, immigration, the queer community, social justice and the working class into his collections. This was enough to awaken the fervour of American Diane Pernet, who chose him to be the president of her ASVOFF 2025 fashion film festival. Zomer is a young women's ready-to-wear brand based in Paris, founded in 2023 by designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha. Inspired by the art world, its aesthetic is fresh and colourful. Credits: Willy Chavarria 3 finalists of the Pierre Bergé prize: Burc Akyol, Jeanne Friot and Mouty Franco-Turkish designer Burc Akyol entered the FHCM women's calendar in March 2025, after having previously presented a non-gendered collection in the men's calendar. Parisian designer Jeanne Friot needs no introduction, a darling of the media both for her radical style and for her activism in favour of the queer community. Most recently, she was known for designing the outfit of the now infamous silver horseman that opened the 2024 Paris Olympic Games. A fusion of streetwear and tailoring, Mouty is a Parisian menswear ready-to-wear brand founded in 2018 by the couple Bertille and Thomas Mouty. While little is currently known about the brand, it has a shop in the sixteenth arrondissement of Paris and is sold at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. Joan of Arc costume by Jeanne Friot for the opening ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games Credits: Jeanne Friot 3 finalists of the Fashion Accessories prize: Panconesi, Phileo, Sarah Levy Marco Panconesi is behind a contemporary jewellery brand. Before launching his own label, he collaborated with luxury houses such as Givenchy, Balenciaga, Mugler, Peter Pilotto and Rihanna's brand, Fenty. Philéo is a young French luxury footwear brand, founded by designer Philéo Landowski. His creative universe goes beyond the boundaries of fashion. In September 2024, he distinguished himself in a collaboration with Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata, known for his works exploring the transformation of the urban landscape. Together, they created the installation 'Avalanches', burying the courtyard of the Parisian concept store Dover Street Market under a pile of wooden chairs. Sarah Levy's name has been circulating for a while in the fashion sphere, given her background with prestigious houses like Hermès and Givenchy or her work on leather accessories at Patou. Her innovative approach has earned her numerous awards, including the Artagon Prize in 2018, the Public Prize at the Hyères Festival in 2019 and the title of 'Accessories Designer of the Year' at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2023. On June 30, 2025, the nominees will present their projects to the jury, who are to then select the 2025 winners based on their creative and business potential. This evaluation will be followed by a cocktail reception in the gardens of the Palais Royal, next to the Ministry of Culture. This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@
Hypebeast
27-05-2025
- Business
- Hypebeast
Willy Chavarria Among 2025 Finalists for Top ANDAM Prize
After making a star-studded debut atParis Fashion Weeklast January to celebrate its 10th anniversary, American menswear labelWilly Chavarriais among the prestigiousANDAMFashion Awards 2025 finalists for the Grand and Special Prizes. Joining Chavarria is French mens labelEGONlab, which won the Pierre Bergé Prize in 2021, and three women's designers: Alain Paul, Meryll Rogge, and Zomer. Founded in 1989 by Nathalie Dufour, with the French Ministry of Culture, ANDAM (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts) was conceived as an incubator initiative and accolade for assisting young emerging designers on the French and international scene. Martin Margielawas awarded the first ANDAM fellowship winner in 1989, establishing a strong legacy for the organization, which continued through the decades. Earlier in the lineage,LemairefounderChristopher Lemairewas awarded in 1990, and Jean Touitou awarded in 1992. In the 2020s, the organization awarded contemporary names Saunders,Botter,Y/Project,Marine Serre, and more. On this year's selection, Dufour said, 'Whatever their level of development, whether nascent or more established brands, the need for liquidities is a fundamental topic to ensure their perenity,' in a statement for WWD. 'The profiles selected also offer an interesting vision of the different economic models that can be invented to stand out and carve a space in a very competitive industry: B2C strategy, niche positioning and managed growth, innovative and ecologically committed.' The 2025 ANDAM Fashion Award ceremony will be held on June 20 at 7 pm CEST. See the full list of finalists in the Instagram post below.
New York Times
29-01-2025
- Business
- New York Times
Maison Margiela Didn't Look Far for Its New Designer
At least one of the fashion industry's great open questions has been answered. On Wednesday morning, hours after the men's fall fashion shows concluded in Paris, the Belgian designer Glenn Martens was named creative director of Maison Margiela, replacing John Galliano, the illustrious couturier who bowed out of the brand in December. Mr. Martens is far from a fresh face at Only the Brave Group, the corporation that has owned the Margiela label since 2002. In 2020, Mr. Martens was named creative director at Diesel, the specialty denim label that the OTB founder Renzo Rosso established in 1978. Mr. Martens will remain in that position, becoming the rare designer doing double duty as the creative director at two separate companies. 'I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,' Mr. Rosso said in a news release, which noted that Mr. Martens will begin at Margiela immediately, though it is unclear when he will stage his first runway show. 'I feel extremely honored to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades,' Mr. Martens said in the release. The designer, 41, erupted onto the scene in the mid-aughts as the designer of Y/Project, a cultish French label. There, Mr. Martens proved to be a deft hand at reimagining fixed notions of form — and perhaps, good taste. He created pants that dipped at the top, forming a Y shape that flashed the upper groin; jackets affixed with too many sleeves; and ginormous denim boots that pooled like the wavy lines of a static-y television. When Mr. Martens designed a pair of denim panties that looked like a light blue diaper, he showed that he was a maestro of minting viral moments. Under Mr. Martens's tutelage, Y/Project won the ANDAM fashion prize in 2017 and 2020. That attention helped Mr. Martens hop to Diesel. Five years ago, Diesel wasn't quite setting the fashion world on fire. Many in the industry brushed it off as a behind-the-times rock 'n' roll jeans label. Once at the brand, though, Mr. Martens demonstrated that he is a Michaelangelo of denim, triggering a wave of new shoppers and glowing press. He made twisted jeans, jeans printed with trompe l'oeil fake outs and jeans that were nearly translucent. He specialized in washes, trotting out jeans in inky black, dusty gray and desert tan. He spliced jeans until they were as porous as cheesecloth and shaped them into the shaggy texture of a komondor. He notched commercial wins with logoed handbags, leather jackets and belt buckles, channeling a Y2K style that was catnip to millennial and Gen-Z shoppers. Mr. Martens had a democratic touch at Diesel: One of his runway shows was staged in front of about 5,000 guests, including some 2,000 members of the public. Far from a fashion-world snob, Mr. Martens also knew how to wink at his audience, as when Diesel collaborated with the condom maker Durex. Mr. Martens left Y/Project last year, and the label foundered without him. It shuttered in January. Mr. Martens couldn't have larger shoes to fill at Margiela. Mr. Galliano was a veteran of Dior and Givenchy, and, despite a controversial past, he remains a consensus genius in the fashion world. He spun Margiela, a brand staked on a distilled minimalism under its founder Martin Margiela, into something decidedly more fanciful. Mr. Galliano's Artisanal couture shows were a callback to fashion's more intimate yet theatrical '80s and '90s. On the runway, he played with bodily manipulation, draped textiles as if they were cotton candy fluff and brought his particular brand of baroque elegance back to the fashion stage. It would be a safe bet that Mr. Martens will steer Margiela in a more grounded direction. Unlike Mr. Galliano, who turned away from the fashion press, Mr. Martens is a game interview subject. He is known to dress in a studiously humble uniform: jeans, dark sweaters, ball caps. He is also, of course, a wizard of that most egalitarian fabric, denim. Mr. Martens shares much with Mr. Margiela. Two Belgians, they each graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and began their careers working for Jean Paul Gaultier.
