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NZ Herald
12-05-2025
- NZ Herald
NZ Great Walks bookings - all you need to know
In previous years, the Great Walks booking website has crashed due to the high volume of traffic when bookings open. To help address concerns, DoC has upgraded its booking system, which launches on May 15. 'We've introduced a new industry-leading lobby system, similar to those used by concert-booking companies, so customers have a smoother experience, and we can better manage the very high demand when bookings first open,' says DoC heritage and visitor director Catherine Wilson. Wilson adds that the reshuffling of dates in the booking schedule will also help those who plan to make several reservations secure their desired spots. It pays to check the website often if initially unsuccessful, as cancellations and unwanted bookings get re-released into the pool. 'Many times, groups will all go on when bookings open to secure their spots, to increase their chances. These spots are held for 20 minutes and then released back into the pool,' a user on the subreddit r/newzealand observed. Another Redditor suggested booking for a less common date, writing, 'Go on the shoulder season, or go on less popular walks'. DoC suggests remaining hopeful and persistent, even if the popular walks get booked out on the first day. 'While the most popular Great Walks such as Milford and Routeburn book out very fast on the day, there are often cancellations, so it's worth keeping an eye on the booking website,' says Wilson. 'Other experiences, such as Abel Tasman and Heaphy, have more capacity and don't generally book out on opening day.' This year, the Tongariro Northern Circuit will be the only Great Walk unavailable for booking while plans are assessed to replace the Oturere Hut, the Department of Conservation revealed. It was initially set to open on May 22. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing day walk remains open, with bookings not essential. James Morgan, a hiker and developer based in Auckland, compiled three years of cancellation data to identify when is best to book. 'There are clear trends as to how and when people are re-releasing their spots back in the system that can be used to better someone's chances in securing a spot,' wrote Morgan in his analysis. 'The obvious one is to have more flexible travel plans and be open to doing the hikes during the fringe seasons. However, if that is not an option, hikers can prepare themselves by knowing that from two months out from their intended booking date, there is an increased chance that someone will release a spot.' In May 2024, DoC was forced to reboot its booking system after a huge influx in traffic on the first day bookings opened for the year. The same thing happened in 2023. A large portion of the 2024 traffic was from overseas, with international demand up 47% from 2023 figures. Opening dates for Great Walk accommodation bookings (for stays from July 1, 2025–June 30, 2026) 9.30am NZST May 15 – Heaphy Track, Kepler Track, Rakiura Track, Hump Ridge May 22 – Whanganui Journey, Routeburn Track May 27 – Lake Waikaremoana Track, Abel Tasman Coast Track, Paparoa Track May 28 – Milford Track Opening dates for all other accommodation bookings (for stays from July 1, 2025–June 30, 2026) 9.30am NZST May 13 – Backcountry huts, lodges, sole occupancy facilities May 20 – Conservation campsites, except Tōtaranui, Momorangi, Anaura Bay campsites May 21 – Momorangi campsite, Anaura Bay campsite June 4 – Tōtaranui campsite
Telegraph
15-02-2025
- Telegraph
A circumnavigational cruise is an experience unlike any other – and these are the best on Earth
One of the complaints you occasionally hear about cruises is that they visit each destination for such a frustratingly short time: the 'If it's Friday, it must be Denmark' problem. So, how do you combine a cruise with getting to know a place in depth? Simple: go all the way around it. There is something particularly satisfying about a circumnavigation. Whether it be a small island, such as Mull, or an entire continent, such as Australia, you get to see it with a sense of completeness; its ever-changing face unveiling new landscapes, architecture, food and culture in a slow reveal. There is a sense, too, of discovery. You are seeing a new place as did the explorers of old, charting a way around unknown coastlines, looking for safe harbours, fresh supplies and, hopefully, friendly people. New Zealand was one of the last places on Earth to be thus discovered. The Polynesians found it first, their final landfall on a long journey through the smaller, tropical islands of the South Pacific. Centuries later, Europeans arrived. The first, Abel Tasman, disembarked to a frosty welcome, and his stay was unsurprisingly brief – but as a proud Dutchman, he christened the place 'Nieuw Zeeland', and the name stuck. Captain Cook (though only a lieutenant at the time) fared better with the locals thanks to his Polynesian interpreter, Tupaia, and he was the first to circumnavigate the country while assiduously mapping it. It can't have been easy. This is a coastline that is as long as it is staggeringly beautiful. It frequently breaks up into archipelagos of thickly forested islands and deep sounds. There are vast bays and fjords, and the water itself is clear, pristine and filled with abundant wildlife. Early in my own voyage, I glimpse tiny South Island villages and hamlets basking in pale sunlight, crouched beneath towering hills and sometimes wrapped in mysterious low white clouds. Indeed, Aotearoa often lives up to its Maori name, the 'land of the long white cloud'. I am onboard Azamara's Pursuit ship, relatively small for a cruise ship these days with just 702 passengers. Its route, after leaving Auckland, was originally going to start in the Bay of Islands at the very tip of the North Island but, due to 70-knot winds up there, the captain wisely opted to change tack and head south for more comfortable sailing. One of the benefits of a circumnavigation is that you're always going to return to your home port, so adjusting the itinerary is comparatively easy. The two-week voyage, Intensive New Zealand, is one of several of Azamara's 'intensives' (others include Japan and Iceland), and as the name implies, the idea is to get to know your destination in depth, with plenty of excursions in every port for maximum exploration. After our new first stop – the unexpectedly Art Deco town of Napier, only rivalled by Miami in its display of 1930s architecture – we headed to the South Island, all the way down to Dunedin ('Dun Eideann' or 'Edinburgh' in Gaelic). Settled by Scottish Presbyterians in the mid-19th century, it's full of Victorian buildings and familiar street names – Manse, Princes and Stuart Streets among them. It's the gateway, too, to the Otago Peninsula, a road sometimes blocked by seals and sea lions sleeping on the tarmac for warmth. Out on the Peninsula, there are birds everywhere – gulls, ducks and cormorants sitting on boathouses, their wings spread out to dry, hundreds of black swans feeding in a sheltered bay. By the time you get to Nature's Wonders, a 650-acre farm, you know you've reached the wild end of the world. Whales frequent the bay to enjoy the cold waters that come up from the Antarctic, seals and sea lions bask on a beach that is reserved for them alone, and no one (not even the farmer who owns it) ever disturbs them. Built into the steep hillsides above the beach are nesting boxes from which newly fledged yellow-eyed and little blue penguins blink up as you pass by. A day later, in Kaikoura, albatross soared around snow-topped mountains that drop into a dark blue sea full of seals, whales and dolphins. Should you be feeling especially brave when you reach Akaroa, you can don a super-thick wetsuit to cope with the 14C water temperature and go swimming with them. You can also watch them, rather more comfortably, from the Black Cat catamaran on a nature cruise around the vast harbour. It's a voyage on which you'll meet the country's very different cultures, too. The stone St Paul's Cathedral in Dunedin would be testament enough to the South Island's Scottish heritage – but, as if to put paid to any possible doubt, two pipers appeared on a ketch to serenade our farewell as we left Akaroa harbour, complete with Auld Lang Syne (well, it was Burns Night). A few nights later in Nelson, a group of young Maori singers and dancers performed on the ship to rapturous applause. There was more entertainment onboard in the theatre and bars, with a choice of restaurants (including two speciality ones), a pool, spa, gym, exercise classes and a rather splendid Jacuzzi in the bow. On land, meanwhile, the ship tours ranged from whale watching by helicopter to high tea in Larnach Castle outside Dunedin, and from visiting Marlborough's renowned wineries to playing a round of golf on Norfolk Island. Alternatively, you could simply spend the day exploring on your own. Picton proved to be a particularly pretty small town with a huge marina and dragon boat racers competing in the Sunday morning sunshine. In New Plymouth, a town dominated by the perfect volcanic shape of Mount Taranaki (previously known as Mount Egmont), the Coastal Walkway stretches for some eight miles of stunning coastline, dotted with sculptures, including Len Lye's landmark Wind Wand. The only time we left New Zealand's waters was for a brief foray to Norfolk Island which, though now Australian, has played many parts. There was a brief Polynesian settlement here, but the island was uninhabited by the time Captain Cook visited in 1774 and named it for his patron, the Duchess of Norfolk. There are remarkable remains from the notorious convict settlement but, after that closed, the island became the new home for some of the descendants of the mutineers from the Bounty who, having outgrown Pitcairn, moved to this far more congenial island. Eight generations on, they still make up a third of the population and, after hiking through the island's beautiful subtropical coastal forest, it came as no surprise when I discovered that our excellent cliff-top fish picnic was cooked by one Les Quintal (whose forefather was Cornishman Matthew Quintal, one of the mutiny's ringleaders). But the greatest benefit of a circumnavigational voyage? There are some things you can only see from a ship. Leaving Picton, we moved at a stately pace through a multitude of forested green islands, mysterious in the evening light, low cloud cloaking their hillsides. Watching from the top deck as the sun set, I thought of Captain Cook gliding through these waters, gazing at this same view, 250 years ago. I may have been sailing in rather more comfort than he did, but I was every bit as beguiled. Anna Selby was a guest of Azamara, which has the 16-night Australia & New Zealand Voyage (departing Jan 4 2026) from £3,079; the 16-night New Zealand & Australia Cruise (departing Jan 20 2026) from £5,089; and the 15-night Australia & New Zealand Cruise (departing Dec 4 2026) from £4,799 – prices for all of which include all meals, drinks and tips, but exclude flights. 13 more circumnavigational cruises to book now Australia Not content to circumnavigate a single country? How about an entire continent. Starting in Sydney, this cruise also calls at Perth, Adelaide and Melbourne, with plenty of natural wonders along the way. Viking Orion sails through the Whitsunday Islands that lie in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef and visits the wild coast of north-western Tasmania. Then there are so many seas: the azure Coral Sea, the Timor Sea, where the cruise leaves Australian waters to visit Bali and Komodo, and the calm waters of the Indian Ocean. Komodo dragons are not the only wildlife – look out for the jumping saltwater crocodiles of Darwin and snorkel with turtles on the Outer Great Barrier Reef. Viking has the 31-night Grand Australia cruise from £11,990pp, including 15 guided tours, return flights from the UK, all onboard meals (including wine, beer and soft drinks), tips, access to the Nordic spa, evening entertainment and enrichment talks. Departs Dec 30 2025. Iceland Even Iceland's brief summer includes some chilly days – but it's worth every extra layer to witness a landscape so dramatic and explosive it's hardly surprising it produced Vikings, sagas and trolls. On Responsible Travel's expedition ship Fridjof Nansen, you can explore remote fjords, tiny islands and get into places bigger ships can't reach. There's an abundance of birds (puffins and eiders a speciality), marine wildlife and, on land, reindeer and Icelandic horses, plus geological wonders from geysers and lava fields to glaciers and Almannagjá, the clearest place on Earth to see the geological fault that is the dividing line between the American and European continents. Whales are pretty much guaranteed. Responsible Travel has three nine-day Iceland Circumnavigation cruises, each costing from £4,852pp and including all meals and itinerary excursions, but excluding flights and specialised excursions (such as horse riding and fjord hikes). Departing May 10, 17 and 24 2025. British Isles P&O's Britannia is celebrating its 10th anniversary with a circumnavigation of the British Isles. Starting from Southampton, the highlights include the cities of Edinburgh, Liverpool and Belfast, as well as the Viking capital of the Orkney Islands, Kirkwall. Visit great megalith stone circles, castles, Neolithic villages and golden beaches; cruise through some of Scotland's most beautiful islands; and discover the birthplace of the Titanic and the backdrops to Game of Thrones. Along the way, look out for seals and dolphins, basking sharks and sea eagles, and take the opportunity to try out local delicacies, from fresh seafood to fine malt whiskies. P&O has the 14-night Britannia 10-Year Anniversary Celebration sailing from £1,379pp, including all meals, entertainment and tips. Departs June 6 2025. Ireland Noble Caledonia's Ireland cruise starts in Liverpool and heads straight to Dublin to visit not just the castle, cathedrals and galleries, but the all-important Guinness Storehouse. MS Island Sky then heads to Northern Ireland, first to Belfast and the Titanic Quarter (including its state-of-the-art museum to the ill-fated ship), and then the Giant's Causeway with its 40,000 basalt columns and Derry's St Columb's Cathedral. Sailing down the west coast of Ireland, you'll stop off in County Donegal, Connemara and Galway Bay and cruise the magnificent coast of the Skelligs before visiting the Dingle Peninsula, Kinsale, Waterford and Kilkenny. Expect a truly varied programme of visits to Norman fortresses, performances by local dancers and musicians, teeming birdlife, early Christian mysticism, secret gardens and magnificent walks. Noble Caledonia has a 14-night cruise around Ireland from £8,395pp, including all meals, excursions and onboard talks. Departs Aug 16 2025. Japan Heritage Expeditions have a circumnavigation of Japan's main island, Honshu, exploring its diverse landscapes and rich cultural history. Highlights include Kanazawa's thriving arts centre known for its lacquerware, gold leaf workmanship, hand-painted silk kimonos and classical Noh Theatre; the Pagoda of Miyajima; and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park with its eternal Flame of Peace. Japan's unique wilderness takes centre stage as you sail through Matsushima and Argo Bays with their island-dotted seascapes, and visit the hiking trails of Izu Oshima Island and the lakes, hot springs and volcanic wonderland that is Shikotsu-Toya National Park. Heritage Expeditions has the 16-day Japan's National Parks, Art & Culture sailing aboard Heritage Adventurer (140 passengers) from £10,670pp, including all meals, house beers and wines, and shore excursion, but excluding flights. Departs Osaka on May 14 2025. Isle of Mull, Scotland Join a local seafaring family and spend a week exploring the beautiful island of Mull in the Inner Hebrides. Leaving from Oban on the Scottish mainland, you sail across to the multicoloured seafront houses of Tobermory on one of four small repurposed – and now very comfortable – vessels (the largest has just 11 passengers). The Sound of Mull is a spot much favoured by dolphins, and you can expect basking sharks, puffins, eagles and whales as you circle the island. Climb Ben More, a munro of 3,170ft, or have a more serene walk on the tiny isle of Iona off the west coast of Mull, considered to be the birthplace of western Christianity with its abbey built by St Columba. There is time, too, for a visit to the remarkable uninhabited island of Staffa with its basalt columns and legendary Fingal's Cave. Responsible Travel has seven-day cruises from £1,365pp, including all meals and guiding but excluding travel to Oban. Departures from April to early July 2025. Saronic Islands, Greece Those with deep pockets can set sail from Athens in their very own boat (Maid Marian 2 – a glamorous 1930s yacht owned by the German film director Roland Emmerich) and circumnavigate the Saronic Islands, known for their rich history and picturesque charm. Explore elegant Spetses with its unique maritime history, the car-free cobble-stoned streets of Hydra, the beautiful beaches and lively port of Poros and lovely Aegina, renowned for its Temple of Aphaia. Onboard there are antiques, art and artefacts from Emmerich's collection, as well as a crew of six – including an excellent chef – and plenty of toys (paddleboards, snorkels and Seabobs – water scooters that can dive 40m) to help you enjoy the deep blue waters of the Aegean. Maid Marian 2 is only available as a charter, sleeping up to 10 adults, with rates starting at €70,000 (£58,300) per week. Departures from May to Sept 2025. South America Fred Olsen's 76-night mega-cruise crosses the Atlantic via the Canaries and Cape Verde, making its first South American landfall in Brazil. MS Borealis (Fred Olsen's adults-only ship) then circles the entire South American continent, visiting the Falklands and Antarctica en route, returning to the UK via the Panama Canal and several islands in the Caribbean. The timing of the itinerary means you are there just in time for Rio Carnival and, in case you fear cabin fever, there are several three or four-day trips on shore available, allowing you to visit, for instance, Machu Picchu or the Galapagos. Fred Olsen has the 76-night Exploration of South America and the Antarctic cruise from £11,999pp, including all meals, activities and entertainment. Departs Southampton on Jan 28 2026. Greenland Experience the icebergs of Ilulissat Icefjord in Disko Bay and walk in the footsteps of ancient Viking settlers on this rather epic circular cruise. Starting in the capital, Nuuk, with its colourful wooden houses, the SH Vega visits the vibrant town of Sisimiut, the glaciers of Evigheds and Eqip Sermia, such unique locations as the volcanic landscape of Qeqertarsuaq, and the remote village of Uummannaq, nestled on a tiny island at the foot of the striking 'Heart Mountain'. Kayak, hike or dog sleigh through a stunning unspoilt landscape and watch out for calving icebergs and humpback whales. Swan Hellenic has the seven-night Greenland in Depth cruise from £4,980pp, including airport transfers, all meals, drinks, excursions, tips and 24-hour room service, but excluding flights. Departs Aug 27 2026. Polynesia Unless you have many years to spare, it would be impossible to circumnavigate all of the Polynesian islands – scattered as they are across the world's biggest, deepest ocean. The next best thing, though, is this cruise from Holland America, which leaves San Diego for Hawaii, where there are five ports of call before you cross the International Dateline en route for Kiribati, then cross back again (it can get confusing) to reach Raiatea and its ruins, sacred to Polynesians. From here, the Nieuw Amsterdam heads to Papeete in Tahiti, French Polynesia's capital, and Moorea with its fabled turquoise lagoon. You will then stop at two other remote and unspoilt island groups – the Tuamotus and the Marquesas – before heading back to San Diego. Holland America has the 35-day Hawaii, Tahiti & Marquesas cruise from £3,499pp, including all meals and entertainment, but excluding flights and shore excursions. Departs Feb 14 2026. Tasmania The maiden voyage of the Douglas Mawson (named for the legendary Australian geologist) will set sail from Hobart, Australia, in December, for a circumnavigation of Tasmania. The highlight is the island's remarkable wildlife, including the marsupials wombats, possums, potoroos, pademelons and Bennett's wallabies. Cruise wild coastlines as albatross soar in the skies and the air is filled with the sounds of colonies of barking fur seals. There are daily adventures and explorations too, including trekking through coastal heath and rainforests, kayaking in sheltered bays, and cruising in Zodiacs a heartbeat away from the wildlife. AE Expeditions has the 11-day Coastal Tasmania: Untamed Wilderness cruise from £6,236pp, including all shore excursions, Zodiac cruises, meals and Wi-Fi. Departs Dec 1 2025. Svalbard When the sea ice breaks up in the brief Arctic summer of July and August, it is often possible to attempt a full circumnavigation of the Svalbard Archipelago. This is, in every sense, an expedition cruise, with just 12 guests onboard and renowned expedition leaders including Andy Mann, a National Geographic photographer, Emmy-nominated director and co-founder of SeaLegacy (on the trip departing July 11). It's a voyage like no other, through dramatic fjords, gigantic glaciers and soaring mountains on the lookout for Arctic wildlife such as the arctic fox, reindeer, polar bears and whales. Conditions permitting, you reach the 80th parallel north and circumnavigate Nordaustlandet, the second-largest island in the archipelago, too – all while witnessing the midnight sun. Natural World Safaris has nine and 10-day Ultimate Svalbard Safari cruises from £11,395pp, including all meals, drinks and guided excursions. Departures in July and August 2025 and 2026. The world If circumnavigating a single country or region doesn't satisfy you in the scale stakes, how about circumnavigating the globe instead? Seabourn Sojourn – an ultra-luxury ship with just 458 passengers – leaves from Los Angeles and ends in Vancouver 129 days later, taking in 28,000 nautical miles and 63 ports of call, including Hawaii and Polynesia, New Zealand, Australia, Indonesia, China, Taiwan, Japan, Korea and Alaska. And, if you don't have 129 days to spare, there is always the option of picking one or two of the segments that appeal most.
