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The Independent
05-08-2025
- The Independent
The pitfalls of volcano trekking in Guatemala – and why travellers still can't resist the pull of nature's mighty fire show
Three days before I'm due to summit Guatemala 's Acatenango volcano, a text pings on my phone. It's from my tour guide: 'Tours are currently cancelled, will update with more information as soon as possible.' Earlier that day, neighbouring volcano Fuego – one of the most active in Central America – had erupted, violently spewing lava, ash and rock, prompting Guatemala authorities to evacuate more than a thousand people from nearby communities. This explained the grey fog that had descended across Antigua, the colonial-era city I was staying in, just 16km from Fuego's slopes. The clear blues skies that once painted a perfect backdrop to the city's famously stunning Spanish Baroque architecture had now turned a heavy charcoal. Before the eruption, my plan had been to hike 3,976m up Acatenango – an active but 'quiet' volcano that hasn't erupted in nearly a century. I'd been warned the trek would be tough: the first day involved 4-5 hours of steady, steep climbing to reach base camp. The next morning, we were to wake well before sunrise and trek another hour or two to the summit, where panoramic views of the still-smoking Fuego typically steal the show. Now, that seemed increasingly unlikely. But if nothing else, the sudden cancellation was a stark reminder of how unpredictable volcano trekking really is. While I had opted for Acatenango, many hikers venture closer to Fuego's infamous 'knife-ridge,' a narrow trail flanked by 500m drops on either side. The eruption had cast a spotlight on the risks that come with such exhilarating adventures. In recent years, volcano tourism has surged in popularity. Adventurous travellers are flocking to hotspots like Iceland, Italy, and Guatemala for a front-row seat to the raw drama of nature. Fuego, in fact, has erupted multiple times in the past few years, including as recently as March and June 2025. Similarly, Italy's Mount Etna, Europe's most active volcano, has been spewing lava and ash on and off throughout the year. Perhaps most dramatically, Iceland's Fagradalsfjall volcano roared back to life in March 2021 after lying dormant for over 800 years. In the six months that followed, more than 356,000 visitors came to see the eruption, according to the Icelandic Tourism Board. The pull is undeniable. There's something deeply primal about watching the earth crack open and fire spill forth – an experience that combines awe with a subtle undercurrent of danger. But volcano tourism also carries very real risks. This June, a 26-year-old Brazilian tourist was found dead after falling while hiking near the crater of an active volcano in Indonesia. Efforts were hampered to reach her by the extreme terrain and weather conditions. On 3 June 2018, Fuego erupted catastrophically. Fast-moving currents of hot gas and volcanic matter raced down the mountainside, devastating nearby villages. The official death toll stood at 218, but with thousands more reported missing, many locals believe the true figure is significantly higher. The tragedy prompted an overhaul in safety protocols, said Ox Expeditions, which runs several hiking tours to both Acatenango and Fuego. 'The most tragic thing about the eruption is that with proper warning systems and education many of the deaths could have been avoided,' the organisation said. 'Since the eruption lots of volcano monitoring equipment has been donated and many more studies are being conducted. These are looking at how to improve warning systems and educate the local people living in high risk areas so as to reduce loss of life in future eruptions.' Despite the risks, for many visitors the chance to climb an active volcano is too compelling to pass up. Chloe Steuer, a backpacker from the UK travelling across Guatemala, described her hike up Acatenango as one of the highlights of her trip. 'Everyone in town was talking about it,' she told me. 'I was excited to get into nature and see something as incredible as an active volcano.' Chloe had debated whether to join the hike at all, having heard that Fuego had been quiet for weeks. Another traveller I spoke with had cancelled their trip entirely for that reason. But Chloe went ahead and was glad she did. 'It was a tough, challenging climb to base camp,' she said. 'After we reached it, we had dinner and went to bed in our little huts. Everyone was knackered.' What happened next, however, made it all worthwhile. 'At 3am, we were woken up by what sounded like a bomb. The tin shelters we were sleeping in were shaking. People outside were shouting 'lava!' Me and my friends jumped out of bed. We didn't even put shoes on. We ran outside to see this incredible, fiery eruption happening right in front of us. It was unbelievable.' While it was dramatic, Chloe never felt unsafe: 'The guides were great, and it felt really well organised. I found out later that the group after ours had to be evacuated from base camp because the smoke got too intense, so they clearly have safety procedures in place.' For sure, volcano tourism is an exercise in controlled risk. Operators walk a tightrope between delivering unforgettable experiences and ensuring visitor safety – particularly for countries like Guatemala where so many tourists specifically head to the destination to seek out these natural wonders. For better or worse, the very thing that makes it dangerous is also what makes it unforgettable. Though as my own trip reminds me, sometimes nature gets the final word. Ox Expedition Tours, while Chloe went with Soy Tours Antigua. Getting there You can fly from London to Guatemala City with several airlines, including United, Lufthansa and American Airlines, usually with a connecting flight in the United States. Total flight time is around 16 hours. It's then about an hour drive to Antigua, which can be travelled by bus, shuttle or taxi. Where to stay Robyn was a guest of Pensativo House Hotel in Antigua, which has doubles from around £140 per night, including breakfast. Views of Fuego can be enjoyed from the rooftop restaurant where breakfast is served. There are also plenty of additional hotels and hostels to choose from for all budgets.
Yahoo
11-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
He Planned the Perfect Proposal. Then His Partner Reached Into His Pocket (Exclusive)
College sweethearts Jordan Pappas and Roy Cohen, both secretly planning to propose, ended up popping the question to each other at the exact same moment during a sunrise hike on Guatemala's Acatenango Volcano Their friends helped coordinate the surprise, but neither Jordan nor Roy realized the other was planning to propose, making the double engagement a genuine shock and a viral sensation on TikTok The couple, whose relationship has spanned a decade of growth, distance and self-discovery, are now planning a wedding that centers their chosen family and celebrates their unique love storyOn a misty morning in Guatemala, two men stood breathless overlooking a volcano, each hiding a ring in his pocket, each planning to ask the same life-changing question. What happened next, captured in a TikTok video, was a twist neither Jordan Pappas nor Roy Cohen could have scripted. 'We could have proposed on any day, at any time, at any place, and we somehow both weren't even coerced by our friends to do it at that moment,' Jordan tells PEOPLE. 'We both just knew, and that's classic Jordan and Roy.' The moment, which unfolded at the base of Acatenango Volcano, shows the couple locking eyes just as Jordan reaches into his pocket. 'I was so gobsmacked,' he says. 'Like, I was floored.' The video's text overlay reads: 'My partner & I unexpectedly proposed at the same time on top of a volcano.' And while the proposal may seem like a magical one-off, the story behind it is a decade in the making. Jordan and Roy met in college at SUNY New Paltz in upstate New York. Jordan, still questioning his identity at the time, remembers being immediately drawn to Roy's warmth and charisma. 'I was also kind of unsure about my sexuality,' he tells PEOPLE. 'But I remember seeing Roy being like, wow, that energy, that charisma — like, I want to be an OL like him because he's so engaging and inspiring.' Roy, who was already out in college, didn't suspect a romantic connection. 'He was a straight friend to me,' Roy says. 'And that actually allowed us to become really close without pressure.' Their friendship deepened over time, but it wasn't until years later that Jordan decided to speak his heart. 'One night I was like, 'Hey, I don't know if I'm bisexual, if I'm gay, I don't know what my sexual orientation is,' ' he recalls. '' But what I will tell you is, I hope to one day be able to find someone that resembles a lot of your personality traits.' ' That leap of faith was the beginning of a relationship that would span cross-country moves, new jobs, long-distance challenges and eventually, a shared life in New York City. 'By year five, I was like, wait, this is gonna be the long haul for sure,' Jordan says. Roy agrees, saying, 'I think both of us have been confident in the fact that we are in this for the long run, but just hadn't made this move.' That move — proposing — came during a bucket-list trip for Jordan's 30th birthday. The couple traveled to Guatemala with two close friends who, unbeknownst to them, were in on the surprise from both sides. 'We were both so fixated on our own plan and making sure everything went so perfectly,' Jordan says. 'All of the little signs maybe the other person in hindsight was showing, we didn't pick up on. We just had tunnel vision.' Their goal was to reach the summit to propose, but the hike turned out to be grueling. 'It was like a 14-mile hike to get to the base camp, and then an additional night hike,' Jordan explains. Roy remembers struggling to make it up the trail, both physically and emotionally. 'I'm clawing my way, like, I'm dying,' he says. 'And in my mind, I'm failing. I thought, this is where I want to propose to him at the end of this, and I'm not gonna make it.' Eventually, the couple decided to stop at base camp, where the view of the sunrise was just as breathtaking as the summit. 'I'm more of the hiker,' Jordan says. 'So I thought, when we get to the top, it's totally normal to be like, let's take a photo, you know?' That cue prompted their friends to start recording. And that's when the magic happened: both men simultaneously pulled out their rings. Roy had even added a special touch to his plan. 'The ring box that Roy used to propose was a 'hidden block' from the Mario franchise,' Jordan shares. 'That franchise is very engrained in our relationship as we play Mario Party four times a week, and he wanted to incorporate an extra meaningful element to the box itself.' The moment, as chaotic as it was touching, was pure Jordan and Roy. 'I really thought it was going to be any proposal video of just like, will you marry me? He says yes, we kiss,' Jordan says. 'Our reactions were so classic, Roy and Jordan.' For Roy, the stakes felt even higher — not just because of the setting, but because it was Jordan's birthday. 'I was like, what if he hates the fact that I'm proposing on his 30th birthday?' Roy says. 'What if he's like, how could you steal my fun?' But the double proposal flipped that fear on its head. 'When he proposed first, I felt validated, it's good,' Roy says. 'It just added to the moment.' The TikTok has since become a viral celebration of love, with strangers around the world cheering them on. 'There was zero evidence anywhere that there was going to be a proposal,' Jordan says. 'I think that's why we were also so shocked.' Both men went to great lengths to keep their plans secret, even designing custom rings. 'We just synced up so well together,' Jordan says. 'And I think that's what made it such a funny moment — without speaking, everything lined up exactly as it should.' In the chaos of it all, their speeches were completely forgotten. 'We haven't even said our speeches to each other,' Roy admits. 'We have a plan to do it by making pasta here together and reading them.' "I had a whole speech on the notes app,' Roy adds. 'And it just ended up being just us saying the f-word a thousand times.' As for why they both chose that moment, that place, that day, Jordan says it's simple. 'Just find what your moment is,' he says. 'It doesn't have to be the flashiest thing.' 'It just has to be something that feels so good, to the point where, if you both have a ring in your pocket, and you're both vibing and having that energy — it should be a moment where you both say, if we had a ring, it would be right now,' Jordan adds. 'Because this just feels right.' Roy sees the volcano climb as symbolic of their relationship. 'It was also like a testament of how much we're willing to like, literally climb for each other,' he says. 'Like, it was demanding.' 'But I think that anyone who feels like, especially during this Pride Month, that your partner is your partner, and you know them, and you want to be with them forever — I don't see the point of waiting,' he adds. 'It just felt right.' Never miss a story — sign up for to stay up-to-date on the best of what PEOPLE has to offer, from celebrity news to compelling human interest stories. Now, the couple is beginning to plan their wedding — and as with the proposal, they're doing it their own way. 'We were kind of tossing around at lunch yesterday, like, so who are we inviting to the wedding?' Jordan says. They know their celebration will center on the people who matter most. 'As queer people, we get to choose our families,' Jordan says. 'Our friends are our families and they'll all be there.' As for what's next, it's back to the simple things — like homemade pasta and finally sharing those long-awaited vows. Jordan says, smiling. 'We're finally doing it.' Read the original article on People