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I visited the Ageas Cooljazz festival in Cascais, Portugal
I visited the Ageas Cooljazz festival in Cascais, Portugal

The Herald Scotland

timea day ago

  • The Herald Scotland

I visited the Ageas Cooljazz festival in Cascais, Portugal

Thankfully, I had plenty of help on my maiden visit to Lisbon's sunny sibling. 'It's cahsh-kaish,' explained Luis Leite, our swarthy skipper from boat tour company Palmayachts, while we sailed across the bay to take in the view of Cascais from the sea. Luis Leite (Image: NQ) Having shrugged off its humble beginnings as a fishing community, its claim to being the Atlantic's counterpart to Monaco is well-founded. It has a long history of hosting the social elite, first popularised by the patronage of King Luis I as a health resort in the 1800s and then hosting several European royal families in exile during World War 2 due to Portugal's neutral status. An unexpected result of these factors meant it also became the epicentre of espionage, inspiring a certain spy named Ian Fleming to create the character of James Bond after staying in town. Amid the rolling waves, Luis pointed to the hotel he stayed at - the Palácio Estoril – among a wide variety of architecture, including an English-style cottage, reflective of the cosmopolitan community here. The town centre is known for its distinctive wavy floor design (Image: NQ) There were also signs that the credit crunch that crippled the country is being consigned to the past. 'You can see lots of cranes,' Luis said as he steered us towards Casa da Guia - a new clifftop shopping centre that has sprung up in recent years. 'Cranes mean money, money being spent on building and fixing things.' One of the things guests most often ask the team is if they will see any marine life on their boat tours – most notably dolphins. They cannot make any promises – but there are some tell-tale signs, Luis said: 'When the wind blows and you can smell sardines, you know the dolphins are hunting – because they are cutting through the schools of fish and the oil is hitting the surface.' Our noses gave us no advance warning, however, when a few finned friends came to say hello, leaping and diving in the slipstream created by the boat. It was the perfect way to round off the trip before returning to the marina. Ten years ago, Luis said it was 'horrible' – but thanks to investment now it is a destination even for those who don't intend to go out on the water: gleaming white, filled with boutique shops, independent businesses and a cultural quarter that hosts concerts. 'That is one of the best things about the development,' Luis said. 'We have got a lot more cultural attractions now in Cascais.' Karla Campos, founder of Ageas Cooljazz festival (Image: NQ) While this renaissance is something that has gone hand-in-hand with the economic recovery of the area, Cascais already had a strong foundation to build on in this department – thanks in part to the efforts of Karla Campos, founder of the Ageas Cooljazz festival. Inspired by jazz festivals in San Sebastian and Montreux, the self-confessed concert fan decided to set up her own in her hometown in 2004. But she too has noticed Cascais transform in the last decade. 'It is totally reenergised and revived in the last 10 or 12 years,' she said. 'The green spaces, beaches, the streets the roads, all the services, the parking, everything is so clean, so nice, so beautiful. I'm so proud to live here and contribute to the programme for the summer.' The group before entering the festival (Image: NQ) Attracting big names through the years including Sting, Tom Jones, Lionel Ritchie, John Legend and Chaka Khan to name a few, while giving a platform to local acts and celebrating Portuguese and Brazilian music, the festival attracts tens of thousands of people across several weekends in July. She said: 'I thought we should have a concert where you could reserve a chair, have a seated area, and have the performances in a row, rather than simultaneously. 'This lets people who come chill and relax; there's no anxiety. 'We already have so much anxiety in our lives.' I certainly felt pretty chilled out as Karla led us around the festival grounds in the Marechal Carmona Park. The main stage was buzzing (Image: sarahawk) No litter-strewn, churned up fields in sight: revellers instead were sat on blankets among the trees and flowers, enjoying a drink as the sun went down. Our tour ended at the main stage in the Hipódromo Manuel Possolo, which normally hosts equestrian events. While Karla hopes that Santana and Sade will one day grace the stage, giving a platform for new acts is also one of her key priorities. This year's line-up reflects the fusion of old and new: Seal performed the weekend before our visit, while we were there to see Ezra Collective: the jazz band whose members met at a London youth programme and have since gone on to win a Brit Award. 'Seal was a huge audience,' Karla said. 'More than 5,000 people were seated and he came down from the stage, it was incredible. 'For more than half an hour he was walking among the chairs in the audience. It looked like he was in your living room, that's the level of intimacy you get here.' Ezra Collective (Image: SARAHAWK) Ezra Collective certainly embraced this ethos during their set. Moments after coming onstage, bandleader and drummer Femi Koleoso told the crowd to say hello to five strangers next to them so that no-one would 'feel lonely'. The chairs in the front few rows soon became redundant as the Mercury Prize winners' energy and Afrobeat-tinged tunes got the crowds on their feet – including an instrumental version of Angie Stone's 2002 hit Wish I Didn't Miss You. 'There is one thing that is very different about the UK and Portugal; you guys stay up a lot later than us in the UK,' Femi said. 'The first time we came I remember they told us that our show would start at 1am in the morning and we hadn't done anything like that in our lives.' Femi Koleoso at Ageas Cooljazz (Image: SARAHAWK) Despite not a single vocal in earshot, the energy in the crowd didn't dip thanks to the potent cocktail of talent and charisma onstage. The band chucked out the rulebook when they invited some of the standing crowds into the front section for the finale – telling us to 'get low' and leap about during their signature song, fittingly named God Gave Me Feet for Dancing. Femi described the gig as part of a 'beautiful journey' they had been on while touring across the globe during the summer festival season. 'These spaces where people gather to dance and listen to music together, they are very precious, beautiful and important spaces,' he said. 'I will tell you something: they are more important today than they ever have been before, because every time you pick up your phone and look at the news, it is very easy to be heartbroken about everything happening in the world. 'But sometimes you need to dance with people in the evening to remind yourself there is still beauty in the world.' The name's Butler - James Butler (Image: NQ) There was one last treat in store before I packed my bags and headed home: a helicopter ride over the town courtesy of Lisbon Helicopters. Given the connections to Bond, this seemed a fitting way to end the trip. But would I be left shaken, stirred or on the rocks? I'm happy to report that it was the second, emotionally at least; I was lucky enough to have the ideal weather conditions, so the flight was as smooth as 007's signature tipple. Taking in the sights from above this time, I was struck by Cascais' proximity to the capital – yet how comparatively unknown it is in the UK. Here's hoping that in a few years' time, Cascais will roll off the tongue of us Brits in the same way as Saint-Tropez and Cannes. O Pescador's signature dish (Image: NQ) Where to eat? A family-ran institution, the walls of O Pescador are adorned with photos of famous diners that have visited over the years. I only spotted several Brazilian soap actors on display – but our waiter assured me he had served Tony Blair and Gary Oldman. Specialising in seafood, try the barnacles to start if you're feeling adventurous (if you don't have any nails like me, you might struggle to pierce their tough hide to get to the sweet flesh inside) followed by the signature roasted sea bream, tomatoes and potatoes in olive oil. If you still have room, the berry cheesecake manages to be both rich and light. Almost getting blown away outside the Fortaleza do Guincho (Image: NQ) For a meal that'll blow your socks off (in both senses of the word, potentially) visit Fortaleza do Guincho, situated on a rocky outcrop sandwiched between the Atlantic, long sandy beaches and mountain ranges. The 17th-Century fortress has been converted into a boutique hotel with a restaurant listed in the Michelin Guide. Watch the sun drop below the sea while sampling some dried fish croquettes, market fish ceviche and catch of the day with new potatoes and seasonal vegetables. The view from my hotel room (Image: NQ) Where to stay? Hotel Vila Galé Cascais is within walking distance of the town centre and two minutes by foot to the sea. With many rooms offering sea views, breakfast included and facilities including an outdoor pool, it is a good option for families.

Masego: 'I still don't feel like a good enough musician. Every day I just want to be a little bit better'
Masego: 'I still don't feel like a good enough musician. Every day I just want to be a little bit better'

Time Out

time21-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Time Out

Masego: 'I still don't feel like a good enough musician. Every day I just want to be a little bit better'

A year and a half after playing at Campo Pequeno in Lisbon, Masego is set to close the 2025 edition of Ageas Cooljazz, which kicked off at the beginning of July and runs until the 31st – exactly when the American musician headlines the night. Tickets are still available, priced between €30 and €45, for the show at Hipódromo Manuel Possolo in Cascais. The opening acts will be Razy and Amaura. At 32, Masego recently left Los Angeles – where he was living until he lost his home in the devastating California wildfires that displaced thousands. An eternal traveller, mainly in search of his African roots – son of a Jamaican father and African-American mother – he ended up moving to Salvador, Brazil. The capital of Bahia state and the first capital of colonial Brazil, Salvador is renowned as the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture. With over three million inhabitants (including its outskirts), it is also considered one of the places outside Africa with the largest Black population worldwide. These reasons led Masego to make Salvador his new home. The musician released his latest album, the self-titled Masego, in 2023. Known for his saxophone skills and distinctive vocals layered over modern instrumentals blending hip-hop and electronic elements, he presents himself as a constantly evolving creative who has also found visual arts a powerful way to express himself. In a transatlantic interview with Time Out Cascais, he previews his Cooljazz concert, talks about his move to Brazil, and explains what drives him as an artist. You recently moved to Salvador, Brazil. Why did you choose Salvador, and how has the experience been? I'm easy-going – I go where Black people are. Historically, that's where the majority of Black people outside Africa live, and that intrigued me. The experience has been very cultural, quite peaceful – simply a good break from my American life. Had you been to Salvador before? I'd read about the city, and I first learnt about Salvador through Michael Jackson's They Don't Care About Us video. So, I was a kid then. But you had never actually been there before? No, never. I imagine the cultural and artistic vibe in Salvador must be really inspiring for an artist. Do you think this will influence your music going forward? Yes, I think all the environments we're in influence what we create. Are there specific things you can already identify as inspirations for your music? I wish I was smart enough to predict what's coming in my life, but I'm not. I try to live by the idea from Atomic Habits – surrounding myself with things that produce the best, healthiest outcomes, and then see what happens. Maybe in two years we can look back and say, 'Ah, I see what that did and how it led to those results'. But for now, I'm just living. Everything is still fresh then. You mentioned having a different perspective or way of life compared to the American way, which can often seem quite self-focused or insular. You, on the other hand, have travelled extensively and speak a lot about experiences with Black communities around the world, especially in Africa and Jamaica. How has this enriched you, and do you think it's something many Americans miss out on? I agree with that. America tends to focus on America. My dad was military, so I travelled a lot growing up, which gave me a global perspective. My brother-in-law is Korean, my best friend is German. I've always been curious about other cultures. When I first went to London, it was to understand their local music compared to what I was used to. So, yeah, I feel more European than American nowadays, just in how I see and consume things. The one thing I do agree with about America is that its culture is one of the biggest exports – American music and styles are everywhere. But beyond that, we all need to travel more, do the tourist thing, then go back and spend time with locals, really understand a place. Because otherwise, it's just internet research. I've been to Portugal, Germany, France – I know more than someone just Googling. And now you're back in Portugal, which obviously shares language and history with Brazil. Are you excited about this concert? I read in an earlier interview that you were really looking forward to playing Lisbon on your European tour. I'm excited, I love playing there. The first time I played Lisbon was one of the most diverse crowds ever – looking out, I saw all kinds of people connecting with my music. That was really cool for me. I also explored Porto's art scene on my own, and checked out where expats hang out in the Algarve. I love the different vibes you have there. And every time I play Portugal, my luggage gets lost, so I have to perform in the clothes I flew in – which always makes the show more memorable! Let's hope it happens again. Will the concert be mostly based on your latest self-titled album, or not necessarily? I'm at a point where I see my music in seasons. Season one was Pink Polo, Loose Thoughts, the SoundCloud era – my show then reflected that. Now, I'm touring a time period, a season, influenced by my current travels. I have a lot of music, but also other things – like how AI has changed how I perform. I rely more on doing everything myself. It's all very musical and nostalgic. This season will be different. The album is there, and I'll keep releasing new music, but this season of Masego could go on forever if I want it to. Speaking of AI, how has it changed your creative process? It's divisive. It forces you to pick a side. The average listener sees AI as a threat to creativity. If someone hears an album and thinks AI was involved, it feels less authentic. So, I have to say, 'Hey, it's me playing saxophone and keys, these ideas are mine'. It's like staking a claim: 'This is me, not that'. I love moments like this – reminds me of the rap beef between Kendrick Lamar and Drake – two sides, pick one. I love having to choose. You mentioned seasons, but you're also known for your love of improvisation, which comes from your street artist days and jazz influences. What do you love most about improvising? It shows people it's real. Sometimes artists get too performative, but we should be present in the moment. Improvisation lets me do that. It's like: I feel this way right now, so I'm going to create something with this energy. Only this city will get it – a private joke between me and the place. That's way more special than playing my set like a robot. I make new music every time I'm on stage. That makes it interesting. Miss a show, miss that moment. Not just: 'Oh, I went to Masego's show, he played the album'. I'm in a different space, creating a live experience for you. That makes every show special. And your saxophone, often linked with vintage jazz and old-school sounds, has been made fresh and modern by artists like you, appealing to a contemporary audience. I'm sure you weren't thinking about that when you started, but is it something you feel? When I first heard jazz, it was pigeonholed as smooth jazz or neo-soul in my city, and I didn't like that. I wanted to play jazz over trap beats, electronic production – that felt fresh to me. Wanting to be a bit different got labelled as cool, which I love. There are lots of others like Braxton Cook and Venna making saxophone cool again. It's about doing what you want, and sometimes people say, 'That's cool'. And I'm like, great! But I just wanted to not be what they told me I should be. Definitely. You also have a natural fascination with Black culture and communities. Playing jazz, an African-American music tradition, over trap beats – which comes from the same communities but different generations and places — feels like a full circle. The more I learn about music, the more I see it all comes back to Black culture. I'm just doing my part – saying, 'I'm a Jamaican Black man with African roots. Here's my story, my view of life.' I love how the more time I spend with music, the more I see the connections – it's like, 'That sounds like this, that sounds like that'. So, I'm just an ambassador. Has anything recently caught your attention or surprised you? Any sounds or artists? Who's really surprised me? I'm always a fan of some artists. I love what Leon Thomas III is doing – a musician winning the public's eye: singing, writing, playing instruments. I like that. Always a fan of Jazmine Sullivan. Also what's happening in Nigeria with Wizkid and his crew. I have my palette of artists I draw inspiration from when I need to recharge. Are you always working on new music, or do you have seasons where you focus more on touring and others for creating? Or is it all fluid? Good question. I used to make a track a day. Then I fell for cinema and video. Now, to stay creative, I create in that medium. When I'm around my community – my London brother, my German brother – that tension makes me want to make music again. Otherwise, I just need to create something daily. I'm always in the gym too, which is creative – working muscles in different ways. I think it's made my music better and more complete. I'm no longer just dumping tracks. It's like, 'Yesterday I created with a camera, today I'll go back to pen and paper.' Are there specific goals you haven't reached yet but really want to? You've done so much over the years – multiple albums, hits, global shows... what's still missing? This might sound nerdy, but there's an anime called Solo Leveling. Basically, it's about a guy starting at zero, the worst of the worst, who gets blessed with the ability to get better every day if he tries. The potential is unlimited. That inspires me today – I still don't think I'm a good enough musician. The people I admire, I want them to be fans of my musicianship too. Same with composers – there are composers I love, and I want to reach their level. Singers who make choices I'm still trying to master. I see my life like that anime: every day I just want to get a little better, a little stronger, learn better dance moves, all that. I'm past needing awards or validation. Now it's just this endless fight – how great can I become?

Ageas Cooljazz returns to Cascais with a line-up you simply can't miss
Ageas Cooljazz returns to Cascais with a line-up you simply can't miss

Time Out

time09-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Time Out

Ageas Cooljazz returns to Cascais with a line-up you simply can't miss

It was in the green embrace of Jardim da Parada, in Cascais, with drinks and nibbles all around, that Ageas Cooljazz unveiled its 2025 edition. And there are plenty of reasons to mark July in your calendar already. The festival is celebrating 20 years with one of its strongest line-ups ever: 28 concerts, four Lazy Sundays, and loads of surprises promising to light up evenings (and late afternoons) along the coast. Ageas Cooljazz 2025 runs from July 4th to 31st, featuring seven big concert nights and four free-entry Sundays, blending comfort, nature and quality music in one unique setting. It's all about staying true to the soul of jazz and soul, while leaving plenty of room for diversity – in genres and in artists. Opening night, on July 4th, welcomes two unmissable acts: the brilliant Benjamin Clementine, master of voice and theatricality, and Portugal's own Rita Vian, who fuses fado and electronics. From there, the line-up just keeps on giving: the legendary Seal, rising star Margarida Campelo, and Brazilian sensations Gilsons and Jota.pê bringing a splash of Brazil to Cascais. This year's programme also sees a clear boost to female representation and a renewed focus on jazz itself. And while music is at the heart of the festival, everything else matters too: Ageas Cooljazz remains a model of sustainability and inclusion – with zero waste, over 600 meals repurposed daily, accessibility and free events for everyone. One of the big new features is the revamped Lazy Sundays stage, now set in Jardim da Parada, with DJ sets and performances from musical personalities like Ana Moreira, Catarina Moreira & Friends, Leonor Caldeira, Manuel Cardoso and Diogo Beja. Sundays come alive with music from 6pm to 9pm, all free of charge. After sunset, the party keeps going with the Late Night Sessions at Parque Marechal Carmona, featuring the likes of Mafalda Nunes, Groove Armada (DJ set), Rui Maia and Peter Castro. There's also space for up-and-coming talent with the Ageas Cooljazz x Smooth FM competition, this year crowning Razi, Bokor, Beatriz Nunes, Plasticine and Berlim. With a line-up bursting with variety, a laid-back vibe, delicious food and drink, and a real commitment to social responsibility, Ageas Cooljazz is once again proving why it's one of the town's most beloved festivals. July in Cascais? It's all about jazz at sunset.

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