29-03-2025
Bogotá like a local
I joined the Reuters bureau in Bogotá as a correspondent in November 2019. The coronavirus pandemic soon put paid to exploring the city in the short term, but after the lockdown ended getting to know Colombia's capital was a joy.
I recently transferred to the Reuters bureau in São Paulo, Brazil, and, although I'm excited for a new adventure, I'll miss my Andean home. Unlike other cities in Colombia — most notably Medellín and Cartagena — international tourists have barely scratched the surface of Bogotá, which is seen by most visitors as nothing more than a port of entry.
Well, more fool them. Bogotá boasts a thriving culinary scene, cool museums and great street art. It's also well-connected to the rest of the country, which makes getting out and about easy.
Here's how to spend time in the capital, the local way:
Getting around: While Bogotá's long-planned metro is still under construction, the city has lots of bus, taxi, and bike options. A travel card that can be purchased and topped up at stations or in shops gives you access to the two bus networks — SITP and the rapid transit TransMilenio. Uber operates in the country but Cabify, which is popular among drivers of yellow cabs, is one of the quickest ways to get a ride. Heavy traffic is a constant presence, however. Bogotá natives — known as rolos and rolas — like to quip that "Bogotá is two hours from Bogotá." While that's a bit of an exaggeration, do leave plenty of time when traveling to the airport, just in case.
The dish that most firmly has its roots in Bogotá is the Ajiaco Santafereño, a type of stew where the star ingredients are chicken and potatoes, most notably the small, yellow papa criolla.
The C word: Though it's natural to be curious, avoid talking excessively about cocaine. Definitely do not joke about it. Drugs, and cocaine in particular, have fueled Colombia's six decades of internal armed conflict, in which at least 450,000 people have been killed and millions have been displaced. Opinions from foreigners — especially from those whose countries fuel demand — may not be welcome.
What to see: The Museo del Oro, or Gold Museum, run by Colombia's central bank, shows off artifacts related to goldsmithing, ceramics and other crafts from the country's pre-Columbian period. Entry costs just over $1, except on Sundays when admission is free. MAMBO, Bogotá's modern art museum, costs 25,000 pesos for foreigners ($6) and showcases contemporary works.
What to eat: The dish that most firmly has its roots in Bogotá is the Ajiaco Santafereño, a type of stew where the star ingredients are chicken and potatoes, most notably the small, yellow papa criolla. You can find good ajiaco — served with capers and cream as optional toppings and alongside avocado and rice — throughout the city, but one of the most popular places to eat this hearty meal is the Plaza de Mercado La Perseverancia. Though undoubtedly more touristy — and arguably, more pricey — since appearing on Netflix's "Street Food: Latin America," an Ajiaco in the plaza costs around 30,000 pesos (around $7.30).
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Out and about: A number of hiking routes take walkers into the mountains surrounding Bogotáand most can be completed in just a few hours. Local favorites include Quebrada La Vieja, which heads through a forest reserve to the east, and Las Moyas, a steep walk with amazing views over the city. Each requires booking through its respective app. You can hike up to the church on the peak of Monserrate, which stands proudly above Bogotá, without a reservation, or take the quicker (and much less taxing) cable car or funicular. Further afield, with the help of transport, you can visit the Chingaza National Park and walk in the paramo, an ecosystem of high-altitude wetland that is mostly found in the Andes. Keep an eye out for spectacled bears, which are the only bears native to South America.
Caffeine fix: Colombia produces some of the world's best coffee. Coffee shops abound in Bogotá, including some premium offerings. A medium black coffee in the country's beloved Juan Valdez chain costs around 6,000 pesos ($1.40), while a cup of specialty black filtered brew in my preferred Azahar will cost you 8,400 pesos (around $2).
Play: Colombian bars are loud and Colombian bar games are no different. Tejo is a game where players throw iron projectiles, or tejos, of different weights and sizes at a target, hoping to set off one of the "mechas" — a paper triangle target filled with gunpowder — and elicit a large bang in the process. There are lots of options to play Tejo in Bogotá, but Tejo La Embajada offers the explosive game alongside a large selection of snacks and drinks. Prices start at just shy of 90,000 pesos ($22) per person when playing with a group of eight.
DATA POINTS
Population: Over 11 million in the Bogotá metropolitan area, with the capital district accounting for close to 8 million.
Price of an ice cream: 5,900 pesos ($1.40) for a single scoop from Crepes & Waffles, a Colombian chain famous for its policy of giving employment opportunities to single mothers. It has sites all over the capital and a large range of ice-cream flavors.
Price of a bottle of water: 4,000 pesos ($1) for a bottle of still mineral water from popular supermarket chain Carulla.
Great place to see a sunset: Head up the Colpatria Tower near the historic central district on a Friday or Saturday. Weather and hours of darkness vary little throughout the year in Bogotá, so try and get to the tower around 5:30 pm in order to see the sun go down.
Essential read:" Satanás" is a novel by Mario Mendoza that explores the events surrounding the so-called Pozzetto Massacre, a real event that took place on December 4, 1986, when a gunman opened fire in a popular restaurant.
Prize of a dozen eggs: 6,990 pesos ($1.77) for a carton of 12 eggs from budget supermarket D1.
