Latest news with #Akhoi
Mint
09-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
The new wave of North-East Indian food in Andheri
In Mumbai's western suburb of Andheri, a Naga restaurant has been running with packed tables on weeknights. Not far, a small eatery is popular for its modest thalis from the North-East. A few kilometres away, a cloud kitchen specialising in Manipuri food has just opened. And, an expert home chef has been familiarising Mumbaikars with the indigenous foods of Assam. There has never been a better time for north-eastern food in Mumbai, and that too in the heart of Andheri West. Since the pandemic, a renewed spotlight on hyperlocal cuisines across the country has seen young entrepreneurs from India's eight sister states reclaiming their distinct eating cultures through delivery kitchens and budget-friendly 10-14 seaters in the area. It helps that the suburb's booming F&B scene, backed by expanding infrastructure and popularity as a hub for the film and TV industry, draw migrants from the region, primarily seeking opportunities in the restaurant, beauty and wellness industries, and often for that one big break in showbiz. 'Amid Mech, who landed in Mumbai from Baksa in Assam in 2007, wanted to become an actor, but as things would have it, he ended up working at restaurants and spas. In 2023, he started The Taste of Northeast India. 'Like most of us, I missed my home food. So I decided to open a restaurant serving dishes from my region," says Mech, who travelled across Nagaland, Assam and Meghalaya for research, and runs it along with his Naga wife Thunchen Beni in Versova. Also read: Once derided as 'stinky', Naga food now fuels entrepreneurship The menu is simple—chicken curries with bamboo shoot and bhut jolokia chillies, banana blossom and fermented fish chutneys, zero-oil dishes and Assamese masor tenga (fish curry)—and modestly priced at ₹400-500 for a meal for two. 'Earlier people were wary of the flavours, but today they ask me to cook axone (fermented soybean)." For Lin Laishram, the Manipuri model and actor from the 2019 Netflix film Axone, starting a cloud kitchen was a way to channel her love for the food she grew up eating. Born in Imphal, she launched Akhoi last month in Versova. Laishram moved to Mumbai in 2001 and after graduating from Sophia College, she relocated to Andheri for work, as most of 'the production houses and casting agencies were in Lokhandwala or Versova." The thalis ( ₹550-650) are best-sellers, and include ooti, a dried peas dish, eromba, a chutney traditionally made of ngari or fermented fish and mashed veggies, the classic singju, a spicy salad, and a delicious chakhao, or black rice kheer. Although most of the ingredients like wood ear mushrooms, herbs like culantro, and heiribob, a pomelo-like fruit, are sourced from back home, she is happy to find seasonal items at the local Four Bungalows market. In nearby Juhu, Singju opened in January with its selection of Assamese, Naga and Manipuri food. Co-founder Raktim Roy, who came to Mumbai from Guwahati in 2009 to work in film production, says, 'There was always a vacuum of not having access to home food." The menu has a few Nepali/Tibetan and Chinese dishes too because the latter 'is the go-to food for Mumbaikars, and we thought they might serve as an entry point to our cuisines." North-East migrants once thronged Kalina-Santa Cruz, where the University of Mumbai campus welcomed students from the region. Old-timers remember Thotrin cafe for its pork specialities, momos, snails and fermented items. Archaeologist and culinary historian Kurush Dalal, who taught on the campus from 2011-19, remembers the premises being open to students from the North-East for Sunday mass. 'A hearty pork curry with potatoes and sticky rice remains my favourite at Thotrin," he says. In 2023, when the F&B industry was slowly bouncing back from the pandemic, two friends decided to open a restaurant that would serve simple, home-style food from Nagaland. Former flight attendant Watirenla Longkumer and fashion consultant Zhuvikali Assumi are from Dimapur, and moved to Mumbai for work. They had started Naga Belly from their apartment in the Oshiwara locality during the lockdown. 'We didn't take it seriously because we were sceptical about how people would react because our food is cooked without oil and spices, and often has a funky flavour," says Longkumer. But when orders started coming in, they had to step up. Today, Naga Belly (mains ₹350-500) is known for its fiery smoked pork and bamboo shoot curries and axone chicken wings, and an excellent anishi pork, a speciality of the Ao tribe. 'We wanted a space on the main road, and not hidden in some gully," she adds. Andheri also works for business owners as rents are comparatively lower than the city's southern neighbourhoods, and Bandra. Gitika Saikia, who has championed the foods of her Assamese community for over a decade, says, 'Considering south Mumbai's vegetarian population, it is tricky to own non-vegetarian kitchens there, that too for cooking pork and buff." Saikia, who runs Gitika's Pakghor out of her apartment in Andheri West, initially got flak for serving red ant eggs and silkworms that she grew up eating for festivals like Bihu. 'I'd say the attitude has changed. People now understand there is a cuisine different from Chinese or Bengali," she adds. In a sea of restaurants serving regional cuisines and global flavours, food from the North-East is clearly having a moment here. While Laishram says, 'we deserve it", Saikia believes, 'there is a long way to go." Also read: Weekend food plan: Sunday brunches and gourmet food gifts for Mother's Day
Indian Express
08-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Indian Express
Lin Laishram on life with Randeep Hooda, their love for food, and her Manipuri kitchen: ‘He's usually on a strict diet'
Lin Laishram dons many hats — model, actor, entrepreneur and archer, a role she graciously reminded us not to leave out. But despite her packed schedule, the Mary Kom actor shows no signs of slowing down. And while she finds it extremely tough to pick what she enjoys doing the most, she finally did, and it is something that makes her feel 'whole'. With each new chapter, Laishram moves one step closer to her dreams, the most recent being the launch of Mumbai 's first cloud kitchen specialising in Manipuri cuisine, called Akhoi. In this exclusive interview with she opened up about married life with Randeep Hooda, their shared love of food, her journey as a woman in the world of entrepreneurship, and her newest venture. Read the edited excerpts below: Q. A model, an actor, and also an entrepreneur—how has your journey been? Lin Laishram: You missed one—an archer! I've truly enjoyed every stage of my life. Those were conscious choices I made, and though I didn't have a support system, I always lived life on my terms. I've been deeply in love with all my pursuits and have given them my whole heart. I feel lucky to be doing what I want and fulfilling my dreams one step at a time. Q. If you had to pick one of the three roles — and being a wife — which would it be, and why? Lin Laishram: That's a tough one because I genuinely love all the roles I play. But if I had to choose, I'd pick acting. There's something about being in front of the camera that makes me feel whole. I also love discussing my work with my husband—he's my sounding board, and I appreciate that I can talk to him about any role without feeling judged. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Akhoi Mumbai (@akhoimumbai) Q. You recently added another feather to your entrepreneurial cap with the launch of Akhoi, a cloud kitchen serving Manipuri cuisine. Tell us about the idea and its execution. Lin Laishram: I've been living in Bombay for nearly two decades now, and in all that time, I couldn't find a single Manipuri restaurant. I missed home food so much that I started cooking myself and inviting friends over. They loved it, which gave me the courage. After much hesitation, I took the plunge and started Akhoi. It's been a labour of love, and the next dream is to open a physical outlet soon. Q. The venture is currently limited to Mumbai. Is there a high demand for regional Manipuri cuisine in the state compared to Delhi-NCR, Bengaluru, Pune, or Chandigarh? Lin Laishram: That was actually one of my biggest concerns—there isn't a large Manipuri population in Mumbai. That's why I opted for a cloud kitchen format, to test the waters. But surprisingly, the response has been encouraging. We're learning that our food is resonating with a lot of people here, even beyond the community. Q. Your venture is touted to serve 'authentic' Manipuri cuisine. Take us through the menu and how frequently you source raw materials. Is it a challenge? Lin Laishram: Creating the menu — to curate something that stays true to Manipuri roots yet is approachable for Mumbai's palate — was challenging. With the help of my dear friend and chef, Nikesh, we selected the most popular and loved dishes. We've also included some pan Asian street food with a slight twist of Manipuri. Sourcing ingredients is definitely a challenge. We use preservation techniques like freezing and drying, and we've adapted by incorporating local vegetables available in Mumbai into traditional Manipuri recipes. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Randeep Hooda (@randeephooda) Q. Since we're talking about food, what do mealtimes look like in the Laishram-Hooda household? Do you both stick to meal plans and weigh your food? Lin Laishram: I love cooking when I'm inspired and have the time. Randeep really enjoys home-cooked meals, so it works well for us. But he's usually on a strict diet. His food is very balanced and measured. Mine depends on my mood. Q. You both come from different backgrounds. Was there a food connection that helped you bond? Lin Laishram: Absolutely! Our cheat days are where we truly bond. That's our common ground. Otherwise, we have very different food habits, which makes things fun and interesting. Q. Your social media feed proves your love for experimenting with style. What does fashion mean to you? Lin Laishram: For me, fashion isn't about trends anymore, it's about conscious, sustainable choices. The fast fashion cycle is overwhelming, and I'm trying to be more mindful of what I wear. Comfort plays a huge role, too. It's important for me to feel like myself in whatever I'm wearing. I feel lucky to be doing what I want and fulfilling my dreams one step at a time, the actor-model said. (Photo: PR handout) Q. How challenging is it to be a woman in the restaurant industry or business in general? Have you had to push your way through? Lin Laishram: I'm not from the culinary world, and I had almost no idea about how the system works. But when you're driven by love for your culture, your food you don't see challenges the same way. They just become part of the journey. And honestly, this is just the beginning for me. Q. Describe life after marriage — and your relationship with Randeep. What's the secret to a healthy bond? Lin Laishram: Life after marriage has been good. We share a lot of common interests, but we also respect each other's individuality. We live very different professional lives, and I think that's healthy. Like any relationship, marriage needs attention, time, responsibility and a bit of fun. That's what keeps the wheel turning.
