3 days ago
Exploring Portugal's Douro Valley: Wine, Views, History And Charm
The Douro River and terraced vineyards in Portugal's Douro Valley.
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It's sometimes an advantage to arrive at a hotel late at night with the darkness obscuring any real sense of where you are. The discovery the next morning can be startling.
Quinta São José do Barrilário in Portugal's Douro Valley.
Quinta São José do Barrilário
That's what happened in Portugal's Douro Valley due to a near midnight arrival at Quinta São José do Barrilário, an intimate slip of a hotel that opened last August atop a curving, uphill driveway That was a clue to its elevated location but it was only when I pulled back the curtains in sunlight the next day that the gob smacking majesty of the site came into view. Perched high on a hill, surrounded on all sides by terraced vineyards on other hills and the Douro River below, this is a setting that encourages just hanging out with a bottle of the quinta's Red Reserva or a sampling of port and taking in the view. But there are too many other points of interest in the area to explore.
The wine barrel rooms at Quinta da Pacheca.
Quinta da Pacheca
Starting from Porto, with its medieval streets, bustling restaurant scene and river views, it's just an hour and a half drive to this area, the Alto Corgo in the Douro Valley, UNESCO designated for its cultural authenticity and the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. Tasting opportunities abound but a few miles down the equally scenic N222, Quinta São José do Barrilário's sister property Quinta da Pacheca is one of the oldest and best for sampling. (It also has the quirkiest accommodations: oversized wooden barrels set up within the vines with glass doors to view them and the vineyard's peacock who occasionally saunters by. More typical, classically decorated rooms in the Wine House Hotel section of the property are also available.)
A wine tasting by the vines at Quinta da Pacheca.
Quinta da Pacheca
Sampling the wines from vines dating back to 1738 can be achieved either in a pure tasting of wines and ports ranging from a 10 year old white port to a 50 year tawny or with a gastronomic pairing. Among the possible pairing choices: Quinta da Pacheca Grande Reserva White composed of pale gold, fruity Caminhos Cruzados Reserva Encruzado to accompany a filet of turbot on "cuscos" with Trás-os-Montes razor clams and wakame seaweed and sautéed veal with foie gras escalope on sautéed snap peas and crispy potatoes accompanied by Quinta da Pacheca Grande Reserva Red Tinta Roriz composed of the rich, powerful Herdade do Moinho Branco Alicante Bouschet grape. Adding to the pleasure: an outdoor table overlooking gardens and vines with the river in the distance.
The view of vineyards from a cruise on the Douro River.
Laurie Werner
Getting on the river is essential and a particularly good option for that is a cruise on one of the motoryachts belonging to the company Deltatur which leave from the town of Pinhão. Nuno Diz Martins and Liliana Martins, captain and guide, navigate smoothly and point out areas of interest such as important vineyards and creative restaurants such as DOC, the domain of master chef Rui Paula in Armamar. (It is excellent; I've been there.) They will, of course, also serve port, this time paired harmoniously with chocolate.
Chapel of Saint Francis at Guimaraes, Portugal
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Additional exploring in the region should be done on foot, walking the UNESCO designated historic center of Guimarães, the birthplace of the nation in 1143 and of its first king D. Afonso Henriques. The tiles on the façade of the Chapel of Saint Francis, the meticulously crafted Garden of Largo Republic of Brazil leading to the Church of Our Lady of Consolation and the colorful medieval buildings of the square Praça de São Tiago are just a sampling of the city's sights.
Stairway to the church of Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga, Portugal
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Braga, about 15 miles northwest, is also worth a look as both a lively and historic city with cafes frequented by its student population, a buzzing, cutting edge cultural scene as Portugal's 2025 Capital of Culture and the location of major religious sites. The ornate interior of Braga Cathedral, Portugal's oldest dating to the 11th century, and the UNESCO designated sanctuary Bom Jesus do Monte are important sights; hardy visitors can walk up the 573 steps but a 19th century funicular that sometimes gives the impression that you have to will it to keep going is also available. (It, however, always succeeds.) The view over the city is stunning and there are several hotels adjacent to take a break and take it all in. And, of course, they all serve port.
Where to stay in Braga: The modern INNSIDE Braga Centro which really is in the center of town so convenient to restaurants and all sightseeing. Where to go for dinner: Tasquinha Dom Ferreira, a rustic, stone walled tavern serving earthy regional dishes. (Reserve in advance.)
How to get to the Douro Valley without changing planes in Lisbon: Flying directly to Porto just got easier for visitors from New England with a new Boston-Porto nonstop from the national carrier TAP Air Portugal that launched in mid-May. The New York metro area also has a nonstop to embattled Newark Liberty International Airport (but its schedule seems to operate without disruption.)
