Latest news with #ApolloofVersailles'
Yahoo
08-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture: Back to the Future
Daniel Roseberry is no stranger to a gear shift. At a time of seismic evolution in the luxury sector, the Schiaparelli designer sent out his most futuristic collection to date — the prelude, he said, to a reset of his creative process amid a flurry of designer changes that promises to reconfigure the competitive landscape next season. It started — as most Schiaparelli couture shows do — with a viral moment. Cardi B, dressed in a black bustier dress with a dramatic raised neckline dripping curtains of fringe, stood in front of the gilded gates of the Petit Palais holding a live black raven. 'I'm not scared of the bird,' she told WWD. 'I control him. We're best friends.' More from WWD Roger Vivier Collaborates With Maison Lesage for Pièce Unique Penélope Cruz Highlights Chanel's Textured Tailoring at the Brand's Fall 2025 Couture Show in Paris Hailee Steinfeld Embraces Bold Cutouts and Dramatic Bows in Sheer Dress for Tamara Ralph Fall 2025 Couture Show in Paris Still, the image was strikingly on-point. Was the Gothic bird a harbinger of doom, or simply a reflection of ambient angst? As it happened, Roseberry's fall collection harked back to another chaotic moment in time: the inter-war period when founder Elsa Schiaparelli revolutionized the language of fashion with her Surrealist designs, often created in collaboration with artist friends like Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dalí. Roseberry pulled black-and-white photographs from the archives and transcribed them into an edgy collection where color was stripped away in favor of metallic surface effects. 'There's something about that era that felt mournful and also turbocharged at the same time,' he said backstage after the show, which he titled 'Back to the Future.' Silver sequins glistened on a black jacket with ramrod-straight shoulders and slim leg-of-mutton sleeves, and exploded across a transparent black tulle reproduction of the 'Apollo of Versailles' cape designed in 1938 for U.S. actress and interior designer Elsie de Wolfe — one of the highlights of the brand's museum retrospective in Paris in 2022. While hourglass constructions stuck to the designer's body-conscious playbook, for every bulging hip pad there was a slinky bias-cut gown sliced away to reveal acres of flesh — none more so than a black satin fishtail gown scooped low in the back to reveal a rhinestone-encrusted thong, evoking Tom Ford's famous Gucci G-string. Roseberry leaned into fetish glamour with a black saddle dominatrix bustier, and molded breasts with erect nipples. They appeared on a pearl gray satin body plate with black harness trim and protruded from the back of a red satin corset-laced gown, accessorized with a mechanically pulsating rhinestone necklace shaped like a human heart. With her sleek bun, glossy black lips and silver spike heels, Anasofia Negrutsa, dressed in a silver biker jacket with matador epaulets, appeared like a cross between sci-fi classics 'Blade Runner' and 'Metropolis.' Roseberry said the collection was inspired by a world, and an industry, on the precipice — both then and now. 'I wanted it to feel like a bit of a farewell. We're gonna be restructuring everything after this,' he said. 'I think if you want to change the result, you have to change the process, and I just want to keep pushing forward.' Having dominated the post-pandemic couture scene with his sculptural creations and mastery of red carpet moments, Roseberry is wise to position himself for next season's great reset, when Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga will all make their couture debuts. Call it surreal fashion for surreal times. Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Elle
07-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Elle
Schiaparelli's Latest Couture Collection Included a Bejeweled Beating Heart
Schiaparelli has always pushed the boundaries of design, wafting between surrealism and hyper-realism, but under artistic director Daniel Roseberry, these garments have taken on a whole new quest for perfection. Bodices are divinely shaped and Elsa references expertly executed. Many of his looks possess such a measure of impossibility that watching a Schiaparelli couture show can feel like holding one's breath. His technical skill and signature exaggerated beauty has shed modern light back both on the house and the craft of couture itself, drawing celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Julia Fox inside its show doors. Kicking off couture week bright and early this morning, Cardi B was spotted in attendance carrying a (very real) raven, which stood guard at the outer door with a handler during the show. She sat alongside other Roseberry celebrity disciples, including Hunter Schafer and Dua Lipa. This season's sartorial experiments were no exception; however, there was an overarching sense of minimalism and looser shapes that coincided with a darker, edgier color palette. Where the spring 2024 couture collection was an investigation of defunct technology, fall 2025 is Roseberry's mission to return 'Back to the Future.' It prods at what nostalgic design could look like in an imagined modern context, one that resists the advent of AI and technological development. Of course this means that the collection was flush with archival recreations, among them Elsa's 'Apollo of Versailles' cape, this time shown in glimmering silver. Perhaps the centerpiece achievement was a recreation of Carlos Alemany and Salvador Dalí's functional Royal Heart Brooch, which adorned the nape of the neck on a backwards sculpted dress. If the heart could be made to move with basic hidden mechanics back then, Roseberry was sure to demonstrate that he could make it pulse now. The vintage silhouettes and pillbox hats, though a 'throwback' by design standards, didn't feel overtly nostalgic. Roseberry's editing eye veered away from any overwrought interpretations. Instead, '30s skirt suits, sleek semi-sheer slip gowns (one complemented by a glittering exposed thong), an embroidered matador ensemble, and a metallic encrusted leopard jacket co-mingled to form the daring, eccentric persona that Roseberry wishes to emulate. By relinquishing the present, in which technology like social media has irreparably altered our self-perception, Roseberry was able to fully grasp the past and propose an alternative standard of beauty. Many of these pieces were refined, relaxed, and all the more perfect for it. Alexandra Hildreth is the Fashion News Editor at ELLE. She is fascinated by style trends, industry news, shake-ups, and The Real Housewives. Previously, she attended the University of St Andrews in Scotland. Following graduation, she moved back to New York City and worked as a freelance journalist and producer.
