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My new-found love for Marsala
My new-found love for Marsala

Spectator

time30-04-2025

  • General
  • Spectator

My new-found love for Marsala

Western Sicily is one of the most wonderful places on Earth. From the Greek temples in the south to the Arab-Norman architecture and frescos around Palermo, there are endless treasures and glories. There are also records of fascinating characters, especially the Emperor Frederick II Hohenstaufen, Stupor Mundi. Historians still argue whether he was a prototype of a Renaissance ruler, with a distinct flavour of the Enlightenment, or merely among the most remarkable men of the high Middle Ages. He was a polymath, but one of his most distinguished qualities ultimately limited his inheritance. He found it impossible to stop fighting, not least against a succession of popes. In that particular phase of the conflict between papacy and Holy Roman Empire, Frederick could not win a decisive victory. After his death in 1250, his heirs were unable to establish themselves. Within a quarter of a century, the dynastic line failed. At the imperial level, Hohenstaufen was replaced by Habsburg. As for Sicily, given the endemic violence, it is surprising that so much of the heritage survived. But the era of stupefaction gradually gave way to a more mundane existence and indeed to decay. The island came under Spanish rule. As Imperial Spain declined, so did Sicily. The Bourbon rulers of the 19th-century Kingdom of the Two Sicilies mainly resided in Naples. Neglected, Sicilians became inward-looking and resentful. The Mafia emerged – a curious blend of proto-nationalism, a rudimentary welfare system and criminality. In a part of his glorious career that admirers gloss over, Nelson had helped to keep the Bourbons on their throne by putting down a rebellion inspired by the French revolution.

Discover the cultured way to explore your holiday destination
Discover the cultured way to explore your holiday destination

Telegraph

time29-01-2025

  • Telegraph

Discover the cultured way to explore your holiday destination

'Travel leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller,' renowned medieval Moroccan traveller Ibn Battuta once wrote. It takes a special type of storyteller to help you truly connect with some of the world's most unique destinations. And that's what Cox & Kings' specialist tours are all about. Designed for culture lovers, these escorted tours invite you to explore humanity's greatest achievements, escorted by a guest lecturer who can truly immerse you in the places you visit. From marvelling at masterful mosaics in Ravenna and the Arab-Norman splendour of Sicily to witnessing the legacy of Silk Road merchants and the Ottoman and Byzantine culture in Istanbul, you'll discover storied lands and mesmerising cultures. Often curated with a focus on a specific historical or cultural theme, Cox & Kings' specialist-led tours go beyond the guidebook, enriching your travels with insights from both specialists and local guides. The doors open to incredible sites for private visits and you can enjoy encounters with artisans and cultural custodians. Depending on where you travel, you'll hear from archaeologists or art historians, chefs, writers and even a curator at the Victoria & Albert Museum, who will regale you with stories during informal talks and at key sites. You'll be travelling in small groups, with an average of 14 like-minded travellers. You can travel your way, with time to fully explore each unique destination and the freedom to explore independently. You can even add pre- or post-tour extensions to delve further into different destinations. Inspired? Try one of these specialist tours... Piedmont with Valentina Harris Snuffle out the sensory treats of the Piedmont region with passionate Italian chef and author Valentina Harris as your expert lecturer on this tasty five-day tour with the city of Turin as your base. Along with unearthing and tasting prized truffles on truffle hunt demonstrations and a truffle-laced lunch at Alba, you'll visit food markets and delicatessens to taste an array of regional produce from cold cuts and cheeses to chocolate. During one (of many) memorable meals you'll be presented with dishes based on historical recipes from Piedmont's monasteries. This bountiful part of northern Italy is also known for its wines and you'll taste some exceptional barolo at a winery and visit Casa Martini for a tour and vermouth tasting. It's not all about the food and drink, however. A private guided walking tour will take you around the historic centre of Turin, including its palaces, galleries, churches and magnificent duomo, home to the famous shroud. The historic city of Turin will be your base for the five-day culinary tour of the Piedmont region with chef and author Valentina Harris Credit : Getty Uzbekistan: Golden Road to Samarkand Take a trip along the ancient Silk Road, guided by researcher and Islamic expert Diana Driscoll or Dr Taylor, who also specialises in the Islamic world and Orthodox churches. On this 12-day tour, you'll explore the medieval city of Bukhara, which offers an array of wonders, including the one-thousand-year-old tomb of Ismail Samani and the stunning Kalon Tower, both masterpieces of Muslim architecture. Spend some time in one the Silk Road's hidden gems, the city of Khiva, akin to a living museum with its well-preserved ancient streets, mosques and regal palaces, then visit one of Central Asia's oldest cities, Samarkand, founded by the infamous 14th-century Turco-Mongol conqueror Timur. Explore the ancient and storied city of Samarkand in Uzbekistan on the 12-day Silk Road tour Credit : Getty Sicily: Normans in the South The largest island in the Mediterranean has long been at the crossroads of civilisations, and on this six-day tour you'll explore its Norman and Islamic heritage. Guided by former Victoria & Albert Museum curator Andrew Spira and art historian and lecturer Dr Sally Dormer, you'll begin in the capital, Palermo, to explore the Norman Palace and cathedral, and see the Arabic architecture of the Zisa and Cuba Palaces. Take in the imposing cathedral of Monreale and visit Cefalà Diana, a rare example of an intact Arabic hammam, still fed by hot springs. Back in Palermo, admire the Byzantine mosaics at the wonderful 12th-century Church of the Martarano, then visit Cefalu's impressive cathedral. The six-day tour of Sicily, led by experts Andrew Spira and Dr Sally Dormer, begins in the fascinating city of Palermo Credit : Getty Istanbul: Byzantines and Ottomans Uniquely placed at the gateway between Europe and Asia, Istanbul is a tapestry of epic stories and ancient empires. With Dr Taylor or Rowena Loverance as your guides, you'll discover everything from magnificent mosques and opulent palaces to buzzing streets and ancient relics during this sensational seven-day tour. Peel back the layers of this city with visits to the former Constantinople circus site the Hippodrome, the bewitching Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, once the centre of Orthodox Christianity. You'll visit the oldest church in Istanbul and the former Greek district, visit the only Byzantine church that still belongs to the Greek Orthodox patriarchate and sail to the nine-island archipelago of Princes' Islands, dotted with a church, Greek Orthodox seminary and a monastery. Soak up the stunning scenery of the Princes' Islands on a Byzantines and Ottomans tour Credit : Shutterstock Find out more and book your specialist tour at or call 0333 060 3239

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