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The Sun
24-05-2025
- The Sun
I drove the Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands along the way
IT'S Ireland's answer to Route 66 – only with jaw-dropping natural beauty instead of neon signs along its 1,500 miles of coastal roads. The Wild Atlantic Way hugs Ireland's western coast — and expect soaring cliffs, deserted golden beaches, brooding mountains, crystal-clear waters and mystical islands off the mainland. 5 5 5 The remote Aran Islands offer something truly different. The stunning scenery, deep culture and friendly people are a given — perhaps that's just the luck of the Irish. But Europe's edge — the last islands to the west before you reach America — are shrouded in legend, folklore and myth. It's no surprise they were used as the backdrop for various films including Oscar -nominated The Banshees of Inisherin, starring Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson. Famed for wild landscapes, distinctive knitwear and pretty cottages, the Irish-speaking Aran Islands offer the chance to disconnect from the modern world. The rugged terrain has a softness to it, as do the locals. Hidden caves The isle of Inis Mor was our first stop — 12.5 miles off the coast of Co Galway. It is the largest of the three in the archipelago (8.7 miles long and 2.4 miles wide) and has a population of roughly 800. The natural elements created a chiselled coastline complete with a seal colony and rare birds which complement the ancient ruins, local cafés and buzzing nightlife. There are plenty of historical sites to see. The underrated city break destination with scenic beaches, £30 return flights and more than 120 festivals a year We took a tour with Aran Hiking and Biking which included Dún Aonghasa, an ancient stone fort perched on the cliff edge above the rolling waves of the Atlantic, and well worth the trek. We stopped by Teach Nan Phaidí for a hearty, homely lunch and one of the best fish pies I've ever had. Afterwards, we nosed around the knitwear shop before heading back on the road for an enjoyable afternoon of more tales and legends. At Aran Islands Goats Cheese, award-winning farmer and cheese-maker Gabriel plied us with doses of lactic decadence. The goat's cheese with seaweed may sound hit or miss but it was a very firm favourite, and kids would enjoy being on this relaxed farm. The ancient Black Fort, Na Seacht dTeampaíll (The Seven Churches), and The Round Tower were also worth the trip, and then it was back to base at the Aran Islands Hotel. 5 5 Every March, the hotel hosts The Friends of Ted Festival — an annual fan convention for the classic Channel 4 sitcom Father Ted. For dinner we headed to Joe Watty's Bar & Restaurant for seafood and battled with the freshest crab claws. Our meal was washed down with local tipples accompanied by a live soundtrack of traditional Irish music complete with fiddle. After a ferry back to the mainland we drove north on the winding roads carved into the backdrop of the Connemara National Park. From the jetty at Cleggen we caught a 40-minute ferry to Inishbofin. Arriving was like something out of a pirate film — complete with turquoise waters, white sandy beaches and dramatic cliffs where Cromwell had his barracks and hidden caves were bases for pirates. The island is a sanctuary for bird- life and is much greener and lusher than the starker Inis Mor. After checking in to Inishbofin House Hotel, with views of the harbour, it was on with a wetsuit to go kayaking around the coves. Lunch was a sensationally simple lobster and chips slathered with garlic butter at the Beach Bar overlooking the beautiful bay. Lobster and chips There's a wide variety of activities including walking, hiking, cycling, birdwatching and sea fishing. Or try canoeing, sailing, snorkelling, windsurfing and waterskiing. The rocky coastline hosts a large variety of sealife and you can even pick edible seaweeds. But we opted for a slower-paced afternoon in the meandering lanes to ascend to the peak of Croc Mor with our guide, islander Tommy Burke — our efforts rewarded by the views from atop. Tommy pointed out the unique white face of An Earagail Mountain (Mount Errigal), and seascapes from Cnoc Fola (Bloody Foreland) to distant Toraigh (Tory Island), to the tip of Horn Head. Our evening was spent enjoying yet more excellent fresh seafood at Saltbox, a quirky food truck. In season, it has to be the crab claws or lobster rolls. Tummies full, what better way to end the night than by heading off on a pub crawl of the island's four drinking holes. We wound up gatecrashing a local wedding at Murray's Bar at the Doonmore Hotel only to be made honorary guests. We drank well into the wee hours enjoying Irish folk music, song, dance and, of course, great craic.
Irish Times
09-05-2025
- Irish Times
Sonia O'Sullivan: Sometimes you need to go off the beaten track to find that timeless run of your life
It had been 21 years since I'd first found myself on Inis Meáin, the middle of three Aran Islands off the west coast of Galway. That was in 2004, to take part in the inaugural fundraising run for the island school, Coláiste Naomh Eoin, and there was a magically timeless sense about the place back then. Back there again this May bank holiday weekend, the first thing that struck me was how precious little the place has changed. It's like time rewinds and then stands still, where the greatest luxuries in life are the simple ones. There's no rushing or rush-hour traffic, and the run is only a small part of the adventure. The island prides itself on retaining the Irish language, culture and simple ways of life, and in some ways Coláiste Naomh Eoin was ahead of itself in setting up this run. Known as Inis Iron Meáin, it has funded the growth of the school and its many projects. Some students come from all over Ireland to live on the island for their school years, both primary and secondary. There are lots of these fundraising runs around the country, but something about Inis Iron Meáin feels different. Back in 2004, it was staged deep in winter, attracting 100 or so runners, both from the island and visitors looking for a weekend of ceol, craic and of course the run. READ MORE It's grown to more than 500 runners now, taking on the cúrsa 5k, cúrsa crua (10k), or the cúrsa fíor chrua (12k), which also includes some rugged terrain to get the runners on to Trà Ceann Gainnimh. My daughters Ciara and Sophie were with me on my first visit in 2004 when we travelled over from Teddington, London, a proper trek of planes, cars and boats. This time, I had Rob Heffernan for company; he convinced me to run the cúrsa fíor chrua. Ceann Gainnimh was the most testing part, clambering back up between the sand dunes and on to the road alongside the airport, then back on the twisty winding road where the runners are hidden between the endless maze of stone walls, towards the finish line outside the school. The Inis Iron Meáin offers runners a chance for some splendid views Rob had never been to the island. We drove up from Cork on Friday to Rossaveal, where we would leave the car to walk on to the Aran Island Ferry. Rob had expected we would drive on to the ferry, so he was left gathering essentials from his car, a bit like when you go to the supermarket for one item and come out overloaded, hoping not to drop anything on your way back. Inis Meáin is also known as the Rockies; the island terrain explains that. With a population of just under 200, it is one of the least visited of the three Aran Islands. The main industry on the island alongside farming is the Inis Meáin knitting factory, also a sponsor of the race. They provide some coveted vouchers for the prize winners, a stylish practical souvenir that will last a lifetime, or at least until your next visit. There is also the option to fly to Inis Meáin, on Aer Arann, the 10-minute flight seating nine people. Connacht and Ireland rugby player Bundee Aki was also there for the occasion with his family and friends, all nine of them technically on a charter plane, taking up all the seats. They also all stayed in the one small cottage, another fall back to the days when houses were small and families large. On arrival at the new pier, we were met by the island shuttle. As the sun was still high in the sky we went straight into tourist mode, bypassing our cottage and to the end of the island. Here we jumped out, drinking in the spectacular views across the sea from the clifftops, then headed for Cathaoir Synge, a stone shelter close to the cliff edge, where playwright John Millington Synge spent time finding inspiration for some of his best works. The pre-race meal and beverages were waiting for us at the pub, so we rushed down and joined the locals and visitors. Not all the runners come the night before, but this also creates a sense of togetherness unlike most other races I've run. With the race start the next day at 1pm, there was no rush back to our cottage. The bicycle transport was waiting outside for the dark cycle home to what we hoped was the same cottage where we had left our belongings earlier. Sonia O'Sullivan runs on a beach on Inis Meáin The lunchtime start also allowed for the arrival of runners throughout the morning. As we mingled in the schoolyard, you could see the ferries unloading the new arrivals, who then wound their way up between the stone walls to the race headquarters. The school hall was the gathering before the start, and we were all encouraged to contribute a cúpla focal as Gaeilge in keeping with the theme of the race and local traditions. In glorious sunshine we were sent on our way, up the hill and out the back of the island, following the different coloured road markings depending on which route you signed up for. As the runners soon thinned out, you are left with this sense of aloneness, not in any isolated way but just being in the moment of your own time. Apart from the water stations, the only observers along the way a few cows, sheep and donkeys. The cúrsa fíor chrua is not an easy run, but it is easy to get lost in the beauty and peace of the island. Once the run was complete, it was time to get back to island living, including a swim in possibly the clearest ocean waters I've seen. It was the perfect end to a perfect adventure. Inis Iron Meáin brings people together to share a unique running experience, and that of the island life. It's also a reminder that sometimes you need to go off the beaten track to find that timeless run of your life.
