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Japan Today
31-05-2025
- General
- Japan Today
Tangy cherry preserves bring balance to this ancient ricotta tart
By CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL At Armando al Pantheon, a trattoria in Rome, meals often are punctuated with a slice of torta antica roma— a rustic tart inspired by the traditional Roman combination of ricotta and cherries. It's exceptionally light, with milky-sweet ricotta balanced by tangy, brightly hued fruit preserves. The base is a tender, buttery, almost cake-like crust, and the topping is a crumby mixture of the same composition. Sandwiched between is a layer of jam on a bed of ricotta dotted with poppy and sesame seeds. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we devised a dough that gets flavor and texture from almonds that are ground in the food processor, plus a small measure of semolina (or cornmeal). Lemon zest brings brightness, and baking powder adds a little lift and lightness. Sour cherry jam, with its balance of sweet and sour, is best in this tart; some brands might specify Morello cherries on the label. If sour cherry jam is not available, good-quality strawberry jam is a better option than sweet cherry jam. Don't use part-skim ricotta, as it lacks richness and has a grainy texture. Also, after making the crust mixture and transferring half to the pan, be sure to refrigerate the remainder, which will become the crumb it's kept at room temperature, it won't hold its shape during baking and will melt into the filling. Lastly, don't spread the ricotta and jam layers all the way to the edges or the filling will caramelize against and stick to the pan, making it tricky to remove the tart for serving. Covered tightly, leftovers will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days; bring to room temperature before serving. Start to finish: 2 hours (50 minutes active), plus cooling Servings: Makes one 9-inch tart Ingredients For the crust and topping: 1 large egg 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 65 grams (½ cup) slivered almonds 71 grams (⅓ cup) white sugar 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest 163 grams (1¼ cups) all-purpose flour 57 grams (⅓ cup) semolina flour or 48 grams (⅓ cup) fine yellow cornmeal ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon table salt 85 grams (6 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes, room temperature For the filling and finishing: 15- or 16-ounce container whole-milk ricotta 1 large egg yolk 1 tablespoon poppy seeds 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon almond extract (optional) 320 grams (1 cup) sour cherry jam (see headnote) 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest Powdered sugar, to serve Directions Heat the oven to 175°C with a rack in the middle position. Mist a 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray. To make the crust and topping, in a small bowl, whisk together the egg and vanilla. In a food processor, combine the almonds, white sugar and lemon zest. Process until the nuts are roughly chopped, about 15 seconds. Add both flours, the baking powder and salt; pulse to combine, about 5 pulses. Scatter the butter over the top, then pulse until the butter has been reduced to pea-sized bits, about 10 pulses. Drizzle the egg mixture over the top, then pulse until the mixture is evenly moistened and resembles damp sand; it will not form a cohesive dough. Transfer half of the mixture to the prepared springform pan, then distribute in an even layer and lightly press it; do not firmly compact the mixture. Transfer the remainder to a medium bowl and refrigerate uncovered until needed. Bake the crust until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make the filling. In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, egg yolk, poppy seeds, vanilla and almond extracts (if using); fold with a silicone spatula until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. In a small bowl, stir together the jam and lemon zest; set aside. When the crust is done, transfer to a wire rack and cool for about 15 minutes; leave the oven on. Scrape the ricotta mixture onto the still-warm crust and spread in an even layer, leaving a ¼-inch border at the edge. Dollop the jam onto the ricotta and gently spread in an even layer to cover the ricotta layer; try not to mix the jam into the cheese. Remove the topping mixture from the refrigerator. Scoop up a handful, firmly squeeze it until it forms a cohesive clump, then crumble and break the clump into bits, scattering them over the tart; aim for a mixture of fine crumbles and pebbly, pistachio-sized pieces. Continue adding the remaining topping in the same way, distributing it in an even layer; it will not fully cover the tart. Bake until the jam is bubbling at the edges and the crumb topping is light golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool for about 30 minutes. Remove the pan sides and cool completely. Just before serving, dust with powdered sugar. © Copyright 2025 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.
Hindustan Times
29-05-2025
- General
- Hindustan Times
Want to make your ricotta tart better? Add tangy cherries
At Armando al Pantheon, a trattoria in Rome, meals often are punctuated with a slice of torta antica roma— a rustic tart inspired by the traditional Roman combination of ricotta and cherries. Also read | Welcome summer this year with mango custard tart. Recipe inside It's exceptionally light, with milky-sweet ricotta balanced by tangy, brightly hued fruit preserves. The base is a tender, buttery, almost cake-like crust, and the topping is a crumby mixture of the same composition. Sandwiched between is a layer of jam on a bed of ricotta dotted with poppy and sesame seeds. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we devised a dough that gets flavor and texture from almonds that are ground in the food processor, plus a small measure of semolina (or cornmeal). Lemon zest brings brightness, and baking powder adds a little lift and lightness. Sour cherry jam, with its balance of sweet and sour, is best in this tart; some brands might specify Morello cherries on the label. If sour cherry jam is not available, good-quality strawberry jam is a better option than sweet cherry jam. Don't use part-skim ricotta, as it lacks richness and has a grainy texture. Also, after making the crust mixture and transferring half to the pan, be sure to refrigerate the remainder, which will become the crumb it's kept at room temperature, it won't hold its shape during baking and will melt into the filling. Lastly, don't spread the ricotta and jam layers all the way to the edges or the filling will caramelize against and stick to the pan, making it tricky to remove the tart for serving. Covered tightly, leftovers will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days; bring to room temperature before serving. Also read | Almond cinnamon tart or badam milk mousse with almond biscuit? Pick your dessert Start to finish: 2 hours (50 minutes active), plus cooling Servings: Makes one 9-inch tart 1 large egg 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 65 grams (½ cup) slivered almonds 71 grams (⅓ cup) white sugar 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest 163 grams (1¼ cups) all-purpose flour 57 grams (⅓ cup) semolina flour or 48 grams (⅓ cup) fine yellow cornmeal ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon table salt 85 grams (6 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes, room temperature 15- or 16-ounce container whole-milk ricotta 1 large egg yolk 1 tablespoon poppy seeds 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon almond extract (optional) 320 grams (1 cup) sour cherry jam (see headnote) 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest Powdered sugar, to serve Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Mist a 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray. To make the crust and topping, in a small bowl, whisk together the egg and vanilla. In a food processor, combine the almonds, white sugar and lemon zest. Process until the nuts are roughly chopped, about 15 seconds. Add both flours, the baking powder and salt; pulse to combine, about 5 pulses. Scatter the butter over the top, then pulse until the butter has been reduced to pea-sized bits, about 10 pulses. Drizzle the egg mixture over the top, then pulse until the mixture is evenly moistened and resembles damp sand; it will not form a cohesive dough. Transfer half of the mixture to the prepared springform pan, then distribute in an even layer and lightly press it; do not firmly compact the mixture. Transfer the remainder to a medium bowl and refrigerate uncovered until needed. Bake the crust until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make the filling. In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, egg yolk, poppy seeds, vanilla and almond extracts (if using); fold with a silicone spatula until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. In a small bowl, stir together the jam and lemon zest; set aside. When the crust is done, transfer to a wire rack and cool for about 15 minutes; leave the oven on. Also read | Recipe: Chocoholics dig in to this Chocolate Truffle Tart on Valentine's Day Scrape the ricotta mixture onto the still-warm crust and spread in an even layer, leaving a ¼-inch border at the edge. Dollop the jam onto the ricotta and gently spread in an even layer to cover the ricotta layer; try not to mix the jam into the cheese. Remove the topping mixture from the refrigerator. Scoop up a handful, firmly squeeze it until it forms a cohesive clump, then crumble and break the clump into bits, scattering them over the tart; aim for a mixture of fine crumbles and pebbly, pistachio-sized pieces. Continue adding the remaining topping in the same way, distributing it in an even layer; it will not fully cover the tart. Bake until the jam is bubbling at the edges and the crumb topping is light golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool for about 30 minutes. Remove the pan sides and cool completely. Just before serving, dust with powdered sugar.
Winnipeg Free Press
27-05-2025
- General
- Winnipeg Free Press
Tangy cherry preserves bring balance to this ancient ricotta tart
At Armando al Pantheon, a trattoria in Rome, meals often are punctuated with a slice of torta antica roma— a rustic tart inspired by the traditional Roman combination of ricotta and cherries. It's exceptionally light, with milky-sweet ricotta balanced by tangy, brightly hued fruit preserves. The base is a tender, buttery, almost cake-like crust, and the topping is a crumby mixture of the same composition. Sandwiched between is a layer of jam on a bed of ricotta dotted with poppy and sesame seeds. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we devised a dough that gets flavor and texture from almonds that are ground in the food processor, plus a small measure of semolina (or cornmeal). Lemon zest brings brightness, and baking powder adds a little lift and lightness. Sour cherry jam, with its balance of sweet and sour, is best in this tart; some brands might specify Morello cherries on the label. If sour cherry jam is not available, good-quality strawberry jam is a better option than sweet cherry jam. Don't use part-skim ricotta, as it lacks richness and has a grainy texture. Also, after making the crust mixture and transferring half to the pan, be sure to refrigerate the remainder, which will become the crumb it's kept at room temperature, it won't hold its shape during baking and will melt into the filling. Lastly, don't spread the ricotta and jam layers all the way to the edges or the filling will caramelize against and stick to the pan, making it tricky to remove the tart for serving. Covered tightly, leftovers will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days; bring to room temperature before serving. Ricotta and Cherry Jam Tart Start to finish: 2 hours (50 minutes active), plus cooling Servings: Makes one 9-inch tart Ingredients: For the crust and topping: 1 large egg 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 65 grams (1/2 cup) slivered almonds 71 grams (⅓ cup) white sugar 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest 163 grams (11/4 cups) all-purpose flour 57 grams (⅓ cup) semolina flour or 48 grams (⅓ cup) fine yellow cornmeal 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon table salt 85 grams (6 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, room temperature ___ For the filling and finishing: 15- or 16-ounce container whole-milk ricotta 1 large egg yolk 1 tablespoon poppy seeds 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/4 teaspoon almond extract (optional) 320 grams (1 cup) sour cherry jam (see headnote) 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest Powdered sugar, to serve Directions: Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Mist a 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray. To make the crust and topping, in a small bowl, whisk together the egg and vanilla. In a food processor, combine the almonds, white sugar and lemon zest. Process until the nuts are roughly chopped, about 15 seconds. Add both flours, the baking powder and salt; pulse to combine, about 5 pulses. Scatter the butter over the top, then pulse until the butter has been reduced to pea-sized bits, about 10 pulses. Drizzle the egg mixture over the top, then pulse until the mixture is evenly moistened and resembles damp sand; it will not form a cohesive dough. Transfer half of the mixture to the prepared springform pan, then distribute in an even layer and lightly press it; do not firmly compact the mixture. Transfer the remainder to a medium bowl and refrigerate uncovered until needed. Bake the crust until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make the filling. In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, egg yolk, poppy seeds, vanilla and almond extracts (if using); fold with a silicone spatula until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. In a small bowl, stir together the jam and lemon zest; set aside. When the crust is done, transfer to a wire rack and cool for about 15 minutes; leave the oven on. Scrape the ricotta mixture onto the still-warm crust and spread in an even layer, leaving a 1/4-inch border at the edge. Dollop the jam onto the ricotta and gently spread in an even layer to cover the ricotta layer; try not to mix the jam into the cheese. Remove the topping mixture from the refrigerator. Scoop up a handful, firmly squeeze it until it forms a cohesive clump, then crumble and break the clump into bits, scattering them over the tart; aim for a mixture of fine crumbles and pebbly, pistachio-sized pieces. Continue adding the remaining topping in the same way, distributing it in an even layer; it will not fully cover the tart. Bake until the jam is bubbling at the edges and the crumb topping is light golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool for about 30 minutes. Remove the pan sides and cool completely. Just before serving, dust with powdered sugar. EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at
Telegraph
22-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
The 39 best restaurants in Rome
Romans take their food and wine seriously, and you will never be stuck for somewhere to enjoy a good meal in the city. Aside from the ubiquitous takeaway pizza and tramezzini (sandwiches), snack culture is a more recent phenomenon – but it has been spurred on by the recession, and there are now places where you can grab a decent stand-up or carry-out meal for €10 (£8.80). And then, of course, there are the classics, from cacio e pepe to involtini di manzo al sugo (rolled beef in tomato sauce). When you are planning ahead just remember: Romans rarely turn up for dinner before 8pm. Read on for our experts' pick of the best places to eat right around the city. Find out more below, or for further Rome planning inspiration, check out our guides to the city's hotels, nightlife, shopping, attractions and free things to do, plus how to spend a weekend there. Find a restaurant by type: Best all-rounders Best for cheap eats Best for families Best for walk ins Best for fine dining Best for innovation Best all-rounders Santo Palato With the soul of a traditional Roman trattoria leavened by a touch of hipster flair, this casual eatery is popular both among the city's epicurean crowd and those who simply love its straightforward Roman classics taken to the next level. Headed by chef Sara Cicolini, one of the city's most promising rising stars, the restaurant honours Rome's storied 'quinto quarto' cuisine with an offal-heavy menu; those who are not fans of innards will be more than pleased with perfectly turned out blockbusters such as carbonara and amatriciana. The small wine list includes an interesting choice of natural wines and artisanal beers. Armando al Pantheon This friendly and delicious family-run trattoria is within shouting distance of the Pantheon. Its single room has been sympathetically modernised, keeping original details such as the stained-glass vestibule. Roman classics like spaghetti alla carbonara or juicy sweetbreads rub alongside lighter fare (in spring and summer, don't miss the asparagus tagliolini). Unusually for a Roman trattoria, they also have several vegetarian and gluten-free options. The wine list is another revelation, offering a serious panorama of some of Italy's best small- and medium-scale producers, and the mark-ups are reasonable. Da Francesco In a picturesque cobbled lane not far from Piazza Navona, this elbow-to-elbow trattoria/pizzeria is an institution worth a visit for the atmosphere alone. It's always full and always loud, especially in summer, when tables spill out onto the pavement. Food is traditional: decent pasta dishes like spaghetti alla carbonara, thin-crust pizza every which way, the usual Roman meaty mains. In 2010, they added a chic upstairs space, with a more refined menu; tables here can and should be booked. Downstairs is also bookable in theory but they have a habit of giving tables away, so try to turn up before 8pm. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Contact: Prices: ££ Reservations: Essential Da Gino al Parlamento (also known as Dal Cavalier Gino) A rock amid the shifting sands of the Roman dining scene, the venerable trattoria of Luigi del Grosso, aka Gino, opened in 1963 in this little alley by the parliament and little has changed since then. It's got the same kitsch murals, the same reliable versions of Roman classics like tonnarelli cacio e pepe (pasta strands with tangy, melting sheep's cheese and black pepper), involtini alla romana (veal rolls wrapped up with sage) and, of course, trippa (tripe). The clientele is more upscale than the rustic ambience would suggest, with plenty of politicians and lobbyists at lunchtime. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Contact: Prices: ££ Reservations: Recommended La Campana The oldest restaurant in the capital, with more than 500 years under its belt. La Campana is the kind of smart Sunday-best place your Roman grandmother might take you. With its staid but timeless trattoria décor and reliable, old-fashioned service, 'The Bell' is a great place to sample refined versions of ultra-traditional Roman dishes such as coda alla vacinara (braised oxtail) and carciofi alla giudia (crispy, deep-fried artichokes). Their tiramisù is legendary. In season, don't miss the vignarola, a traditional Roman spring vegetable stew. Reservations are essential for Sunday lunch. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Address: Vicolo della Campana 18 Contact: 00 39 06 686 7820 Prices: ££ Reservations: Recommended Matricianella A traditional trattoria close to chic piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, with informal checked-tablecloth ambience but better than usual food and service, Matricianella is the place to try carciofi alla giudia – whole artichokes, deep-fried Roman-Jewish style. Follow with traditional Roman staples like spaghetti all'amatriciana and the excellent saltimbocca (veal rolled up with prosciutto and sage). Featuring around 600 labels, the wine list is a cut above the usual trattoria standard. Reservations recommended for dinner, not necessary for lunch. Tables spill onto the pavement in the summer. Cesare al Pellegrino Romans mourned the closure of Settimio al Pellegrino in 2022, a beloved landmark trattoria near Campo de' Fiori. Luckily, its doors have been opened once again by the husband-and-wife team Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi behind Cesare al Casaletto, another go-to for lovers of old-school Roman cuisine. Buzz the doorbell to enter and tuck into a revived version of the eatery's iconic meatballs, plus no-nonsense classics like baccalà alla romana (Roman-style cod) and spaghetti tossed with the leftover sauce from the involtini, just like any frugal nonna romana would serve. La Pace del Palato Renato and Francesco Pesce embody both two different generations and the eternal struggle of Rome itself to strike a delicate balance between tradition and innovation. The city sometimes misses the mark, but the Pesce father-and-son team can do no wrong according to their devoted fans that come from across the city (and across Italy) to sigh in delight over fresh pasta stuffed with taleggio and speck, chicken souffle, and zucchini and truffle flan. The disarmingly friendly atmosphere and carefully curated wine list are just the cherry on the Roman torta. Roscioli As Rome's ultimate deli restaurant, Roscioli is all about top notch ingredients. A display case laden with exquisite Italian and foreign delicacies dominates the entrance. It's not just for show: outside of meal times, Roscioli is a shop, and many of the specialities served here can be bought to take away. Simple combinations abound, such as a perfect starter of mozzarella with Cantabrian anchovies, or a classic spaghetti all'amatriciana made with artisanal bacon and pecorino romano cheese. Tables are close together in the brick and bottle-lined interior, and the atmosphere is serious foodie concentration rather than romantic dalliance. The wine list is superb. Da Cesare al Casaletto Take tram 8 to the end of the line to visit this in-the-know trattoria which has been garnering rave reviews since it was turned around by current owner Leonardo Vignoli. Inside is trattoria trad – echoey and brightly lit – but you can book a table on the pretty terrace instead. Try the signature polpette di bollito (meat croquettes in basil sauce), and classics such as abbacchio a scottadito (grilled lamb chops). Food is excellent and good value, and the wine list has some stellar bottles at reasonable mark-ups. There are fish dishes too, and off-menu daily specials rarely disappoint. Da Felice The heirs of old-school neighbourhood restaurateur Felice have turned this place into one of Rome's most buzzy trattorias. The exposed-brick décor may be new but the food is still downhome romano, centred on classics like spaghetti all'amatriciana or involtini di manzo al sugo (rolled beef in tomato sauce) and some daily-changing specials. Veggies will be pretty much limited to the tonnarelli cacio e pepe (pasta strands with sheep's cheese and black pepper), but it's no sacrifice - they're among the best in town. Service is brisk but professional, and the wine list surprisingly extensive for a family-run trattoria. L'Arcangelo This Prati restaurant, with its retro wood-panelled décor, was one of the first in Rome to take the fresh-and-local trattoria formula and give it a Cordon Bleu twist. To sample what they do best, order the rigatoni alla carbonara – a classic Roman trattoria dish, given wings by the quality of the ingredients and the perfection of the technique. At the end of the meal they offer free, homemade Vov – a zabaglione liqueur – with sweet biscuits for dipping. Well spaced tables and unobtrusive service make this a pleasant spot for a romantic tête-à-tête. Del Frate This attractive urban-chic wine bar near the Vatican has been in the Del Frate family for almost a century, and is a great spot to recover energies after a visit to the Sistine Chapel. Little cherrywood tables laid out between exposed brick walls and towering wine racks make it more suited to a tête-à-tête than a big group. The menu is lighter than the Roman norm, split between cold deli plates like beef tartare with ginger, and four or five daily hot primi and secondi. The wine list is spectacular, including a good by-the-glass selection. Back to index Best for cheap eats Romanè Chef Stefano Callegari has been a pillar of the Roman dining scene for decades, best known for his innovative pizzas and invention of the 'Trapizzino', a now ubiquitous Roman street food. In 2021, he opened his first trattoria in the Trionfale district just north of the Vatican to champion timeless Roman specialties from artichokes to offal. Diners are treated to faithful versions of carbonara and amatriciana, meatballs stewed in tomato sauce, and chicken alla cacciatora, plus get a souvenir hand-painted ceramic dish to take home (only included with some menù items). Area/neighbourhood: Trionfale Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended Passaguai After a visit to the Vatican head for Passaguai and its nearby sister wine bar Sorpasso. Both are Prati guarantees for a light meal at a good price, and are open throughout the day. Both locations offer a bit of everything, from salads and cold cuts to pasta dishes, risottos, steaks and yummy desserts. Passaguai's interior is a cosy cellar: windowless, but warm in winter and cool in summer, and there are pavement tables outside. Area/neighbourhood: Prati Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended Bar della Pace After being closed for almost a decade, the historic Bar della Pace near Piazza Navona has reopened following extensive renovations. An iconic Roman bar for centuries – once frequented by artists, writers, and the international jet set – has been returned to its former glory. The interiors maintain that Old-World flair but are lighter and brighter with dramatic archways, marble columns and restored patterned floors. The new all-day menu has something for everyone, from morning coffee to a light lunch of salad or pinsa pizzas all the way to hearty dinner fare with classic Roman pastas or meat dishes. The tables outside allow for prime centro-storico people watching. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended Bonci Rome's best takeaway pizza is served up at this tiny outlet (with no seating) not far from the entrance to the Vatican Museums. Bear-like dough maestro Gabriele Bonci has been called 'the Michelangelo of pizza', and his slow-rise product – made from specially selected organic flours – ranges from tried-and-tested classics like margherita (tomato and mozzarella) to Bonci creations like ricotta, black pepper and courgettes, or vignarola (his pizza version of a Roman spring soup). Avoid the peak lunchtime rush by arriving early or late. If you're planning a picnic, pick up some of Bonci's delicious bread. Area/neighbourhood: Prati Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only Fatamorgana With flavours like wasabi, black forest gateau and chocolate infused with lapsang souchong, this mini-chain is one of the city's more creative ice cream emporiums. But it's also militantly natural and organic. Owner Maria Agnese Spagnuolo uses no additives or artificial colouring agents, and her ice cream is rigorously gluten-free. Flavours change according to seasonal availability. In late summer and autumn, don't miss the uva fragola e zenzero (strawberry grape and ginger). Other central branches are on Piazza dei Zingari in Monti, Via Laurina (off Via del Corso) and Via dei Chiavari in the centro storico. Back to index Best for families Gelateria del Teatro Once the main pilgrim route to the Vatican, Via dei Coronari now leads into gelato temptation. Eternal salvation is no match for Stefano Marcotulli's inventive flavours including sage and raspberry, ricotta, almond and fig, and 'vecchia Roma' (a gelato version of Roman-Jewish ricotta and wild cherry pie). All ingredients are natural, flavours vary with the seasons, and all the ice cream is made from scratch on-site. There's a second branch at Lungotevere dei Vallati 25, not far from the Ponte Sisto pedestrian bridge. The owners run Cucina del Teatro next door, a relaxed pizza and pasta takeaway. Pizzeria Remo To see a Roman pizzeria at its most enjoyably lively, head for the down-to-earth Testaccio district. Remo serves up good Roman-style flat pizzas on a corner overlooking a small park, with all the classic toppings, to a loud and appreciative audience. Beer, water or soft drinks are the liquids of choice; they do also have wine, but it's pretty rough. To secure one of the few coveted outside tables you'll need to come early, or wait your turn, as they don't take bookings. Service is brisk – this isn't the place to linger over a romantic supper. Area/neighbourhood: Testaccio Contact: 00 39 06 574 6270 Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only Neve di Latte Right behind Zaha Hadid's angular MAXXI is a less showy masterpiece. This 'Slow Food' style gelateria does a few fancy flavours (like barrel-aged balsamic vinegar – unmissable), but is more focused on perfecting classics like chocolate or hazelnut. Few ice cream makers use such maniacally sourced ingredients; we're talking Bavarian biodynamic milk, eggs from free-range Tuscan hens fed partly on goat milk, and four different varieties of organic brown sugar for starters. The shop's spacious interior is pared back, with stools for perching (all the better to focus on the ice cream). Area/neighbourhood: Flaminio Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only Torcè Claudio Torcè's divine ice creams are among the best in Rome. There are eight different chocolate flavours alone, plus savoury forays like gorgonzola. The Torcè HQ is in the suburb of EUR, just a three-minute walk from the Laurentina stop at the end of the B line. However their tiny Viale Aventino shop is more central – just a five-minute walk from the Via di San Gregorio entrance of the Forum and Palatine hill, and eight minutes from the Colosseum. But rest assured: all the ices come direct from the Torcè mothership. La Pratolina This buzzing, loud and cheerful evening-only pizzeria is just the thing after a long day at the Vatican. Their oval pinsa apparently derives from an ancient Roman style of focaccia. It's not just the special flour mix, the slow, temperature-controlled dough rising time and the lavastone, wood-fired oven that this heritage pizza stand out from the crowd. It's the toppings as well – like the mozzarella, pesto, Pachino tomatoes and Parma ham that adorn the Genovese. There are some good wines and beers on the list, plus a few decent salads if you're not in a doughy mood. Back to index Best for walk ins Antica Birreria Peroni Roll out the barrel at this vintage Roman-style bierkeller a stone's throw from the Trevi fountain. Crowds of appreciative locals and tourists pack in to dine on filling carb and meat fare, washed down with draught Peroni. The food, served by hale and hefty waiters, consists of three or four daily-changing pasta dishes, plus sausages, steaks, goulash, grilled scamorza cheese and a few salads. The place stays open all afternoon – handy if you need to eat between 3pm and 7pm when it's hard to find a decent sit-down meal in Rome. Enoteca Corsi In the morning and afternoon it's an old-fashioned wine shop, but come lunchtime (and on Thursday and Friday evenings) this bottiglieria, brilliantly placed halfway between Piazza Venezia and the Pantheon, morphs into a packed local trattoria. In a warren of barrel-vaulted rooms, hungry office workers, tourists, local aristocrats and Vatican apparatchiks tuck into dishes like pasta e ceci (a warming soup of pasta and chickpeas) or pollo alla diavola (grilled spicy chicken), washed down with the house white or red (the red's better). Should you need something a little more serious, there are more than 300 wines by the bottle. Forno Conti & Co. Rome's gritty, multi-cultural Esquilino is quickly becoming the city's hottest spot for dining and imbibing, and the chic, Nordic-inspired Forno Conti & Co. artisanal bakery is riding the culinary wave. Shelves are stocked each morning with fresh breads, croissants and other simple pastries to enjoy with espresso made from locally roasted Faro-brand coffee, or patrons can dig into something more filling like buns (with butter and jam or cheese and prosciutto) or a soft-boiled egg. Come lunchtime, an array of quiches, baguette sandwiches and savory pies appear, alongside a selection of organic sodas and juices and natural wines. Area/neighbourhood: Esquilino Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Not necessary Nunu Rome's international food scene made huge leaps forward during the past few decades, and the city has moved past tired pan-Asian eateries and opened a wave of modern yet authentic regional restaurants of late. This sun-washed Vietnamese bistro just steps from the bustling Termini train station is a perfect example, serving up light and flavorful goi cuon, pho, lao thap cam and other crowd-pleasers for lunch and dinner. End your meal right with a ca phe da iced coffee laced with sweetened condensed milk. Supplizio Deep-fried rice balls are a staple of Italian street food from Rome all the way south to Sicily. Rome's twist on this satisfying specialty is called a 'supplì', and it's one of the most ubiquitous and authentic street foods in the capital. Oval-shaped and breaded, classic 'supplì' feature rice mixed with a bit of tomato sauce and ground beef or pork packed around a central chunk of mozzarella, which melts as the whole thing is deep-fried. The best 'supplì' in town are found at Supplizio, a tiny corner fry shop just a few blocks from the Tiber River in the heart of the 'centro storico'. In addition to classic 'supplì', you can try updated—but still quintessentially Roman—flavors like 'cacio e pepe', 'amatriciana', and 'carbonara'. There are a few tables and bar seating, or you can take your piping-hot treasure to go. Area/neighbourhood: South Centro Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only Back to index Best for fine dining Il Pagliaccio Anthony Genovese is a strong contender for Rome's most talented chef. A major plus point of the serenely welcoming restaurant he presides over is that it's in the heart of the Centro Storico and not attached to a hotel. Genovese has worked in the Far East and on the Amalfi Coast, and there are influences of both in his playful but technically impeccable cuisine. Tortelli filled with anchovies and broad beans arrive on the table – three jaunty little boats on a foamy green sea. To eat here at a (relative) discount, come at lunch, when there's a €75 tasting menu. Per Me – Giulio Terrinoni Giulio Terrinoni's den just off Via Giulia wears its Michelin star lightly. In an intimate, warmly minimalist space behind a lovely ivy-draped exterior, Terrinoni's market-fresh Italian cuisine is more about flavour than showmanship. Service is affable yet attentive, the wine list excellent. And this is one of the few restaurants in this league with a real eye on value – especially at lunchtime, when for €44 (£39) a head you can graze on a selection of five snack-sized tappi, such as roast octopus with lime and raspberry, or an oyster with red onion sorbet. In summer, book one of the three cute little tables for two in the ivy-covered lane outside. Satiro Vino e Cucina Traditional Roman fare is so heavy on meat (and offal) that it's easy to forget that Italy's capital city sits less than half an hour from the Tyrrenhian coastline. This Monti eatery is a reminder of the proximity of the sea's bounty, with creative fish and seafood dishes that channel classic go-tos and culinary trends. Octopus putanesca and cacio e pepe with tuna look to the past while kataifi-encrusted shrimp and a fish tartare of the day keep the menu fresh and contemporary. The ample wine list highlights Italian producers and includes options by the bottle or by the glass. Area/neighbourhood: South Centro Contact: Prices: ££ Reservations: Recommended All'Oro Riccardo Di Giacinto and his wife Ramona's Michelin-starrred restaurant occupies an Art Nouveau villa just a five-minute walk from Piazza del Popolo. The interior has a nightclubby aesthetic, while for fine weather there is an airy veranda. Di Giacinto is a master of culinary camouflage, favouring inventive tweaks to Roman tradition – a signature dish is coda alla vaccinara (oxtail) disguised as Ferrero Rocher. Tasting menus (one vegan) offer substantial savings on à la carte prices; newcomers are advised to try the All'Origine menu, a compilation of the chef's 'greatest hits'. Upstairs, 14-room H'All is a fresh design hotel. Area/neighbourhood: Flaminio Contact: Prices: £££ Reservations: Recommended Glass Hostaria It's not easy to find a good place to eat in Trastevere so hats off to Cristina Bowerman's Michelin-starred culinary fiefdom, which strikes a blow for quality and research in an area dominated by tourist trattorias. In this aggressively modern reign of glass and steel, first timers should opt for one of the tasting menus, which showcase Bowerman's fancy but convincing Mediterranean fusion approach. The ravioli stuffed with Parmesan (which has been aged for five years) and served with a sauce of Isigny butter is legendary. Area/neighbourhood: Trastevere Contact: Prices: £££ Reservations: Essential La Pergola Dinner at La Pergola is a must if expense is no object. Rome's only three-starred Michelin establishment pulls out all the stops, and has a spectacular view over the city. Chef Heinz Beck is German but his love of Italian food and work ethic (you'll find him in the kitchen, not on television) have endeared him to local gourmets. He can do theatrical showpieces (as in a mushroom, truffle and foie gras composition he calls 'woodland garden') but is also a master of simplicity. Head sommelier Marco Reitano is an excellent guide to the exhaustive wine list. Antico Arco It's been going for almost 20 years now, but this relaxed, contemporary Italian restaurant on the Gianicolo hill above Trastevere continues to deliver. The interior is warmly minimalist; the very few outside tables – a novelty in the recently pedestrianised piazza – should be booked well ahead. Risotto with Castelmagno cheese in Nebbiolo sauce is an Antico Arco classic; meat, fish and game share the credits, and there are even a few veggie dishes. The sommelier is a great source of inspiration – and the mark-ups on bottles are reasonable. Back to index Best for innovation Il Margutta On a gallery-packed side street just around the corner from Piazza del Popolo, artsy Il Margutta is that rare Roman find: an upscale vegetarian restaurant. The weekday lunchtime 'Green Brunch' has 50-plus dishes ranging from soups to pasta, pizza and mountains of fresh organic vegetables, and is one of the best lunch deals in town. The weekend version is more elaborate (and only a little more expensive). There's live jazz at Sunday brunch and sometimes in the evenings too, when the menu is à la carte, the atmosphere a little more romantico, and prices substantially higher. Ginger This health-oriented diner is a pleasant place to refuel when the pasta and pizza carbs starts to take their toll. Open all day, it has a panoply of interesting salads (rare in Rome), gourmet sandwiches, fruit platters and smoothies, as well as pasta dishes and mains like grilled red prawns or fillet steak with pumpkin and pistacchios. They do breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, aperitivo and dinner, and though prices for proper meals are on the high side, most of the dishes (including the appetisers) are intended as mains. What's more, the place is vegan-friendly. Area/neighbourhood: North Centro Contact: Prices: ££ Reservations: Not necessary Pulejo Experimental contemporary dining has swept over Italy's capital, with varying levels of success. Many of these Michelin-aspiring restaurants confound diners with their overly fussy—yet often bland—concoctions, but Pulejo stands apart for creative plates that simultaneously surprise and soothe. Chef Davide Puleio earned his stripes at celebrity outposts like Noma in Copenhagen before opening his namesake restaurant near the Vatican in 2022, and diners looking for Michelin heft with the familiar flavors of a corner trattoria have been flocking to his haute-cuisine outpost every since to enjoy traditional Roman animelle (sweetbreads) updated with smoked oyster sauce and chard or tortello pasta stuffed with wild boar, rhubarb and toasted pine nuts. Enoteca L'Antidoto Don't expect to find wines by the glass in this small enoteca in Trastevere serving up a wide array of natural vini along with Brutalist cuisine by Italian chef Mirko Pelosi, fresh off of experiences in a variety of experimental kitchens around Europe. Settle in with a whole bottle of wine and enjoy some of the most cutting-edge dishes being offered up in Rome these days. The menu changes daily based on what's in season. Tuck into marinated mackerel with green olives, cucumber, sesame and onions or smoked pork cheek with curried pickled pumpkin and preserved citrus. As much a foodie mecca as it is a draw for oenophiles. Back to index How we choose Every restaurant in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets, from neighbourhood favourites to Michelin-starred restaurants – to best suit every type of traveller's taste – and consider the food, service, best tables, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest opening and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Rebecca Winke's first visit to Rome was a coup de foudre, and her affection for the Eternal City has only grown over 25 years of living in Italy. She has mastered the art of navigating the city's sampietrini cobblestones in heels but has yet to come away from a plate of bucatini all'amatriciana with an unsullied blouse.
