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Metro
4 days ago
- Metro
I've travelled all over Canada, but nothing compares to its 'ocean playground'
My travels across Canada have rewarded me with everything from sweeping mountainscapes to vibrant city life, but nowhere captured my heart quite like Nova Scotia — the 'ocean playground'. Thrashed by the wild swells of the North Atlantic, this tiny Maritime province on the country's eastern tip is shaped by the sea. As one lifelong Nova Scotian resident tells me: 'Water is physically in our blood.' With its dramatic cliff faces, salty fishing towns and craggy hiking trails, Nova Scotia feels refreshingly rugged. But there's a wealth to explore beyond its natural wonders. It's where the Cajun people of Louisiana's bayous originated and where Irish immigrants landed after fleeing the famine. It's home to candy-striped lighthouses, a lush wine-growing region, six UNESCO World Heritage sites and a blossoming food scene fuelled by world-class seafood. But since it remains relatively unexplored, the waterfronts and villages are quieter than any of the four Canadian provinces I'd visited before — so much so that there were times when I was the only person in sight. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. There's never been a better time to experience all that Nova Scotia has to offer. Here's everything I saw and did in a six-day trip. Travelling from the UK, most of you will be flying into Halifax, Nova Scotia's capital. The best of the region lies outside the city, but there are still a few places worth visiting before you venture out. I enjoyed the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, which contains the entire painted home of famed folk artist Maud Lewis and insightful exhibits on the indigenous Mi'kmawq community. Halifax's fine-dining scene is a real treat for food lovers. A local recommendation is Tribute, a seasonal grilled restaurant known for its hand-rolled pasta and smoky fish ($105/£56 for a tasting menu). Nearby Mystic offers an immersive experience that will leave your tongue tingling (even the buttered radishes were seasoned to perfection). Finally, a good half-day trip from Halifax is Peggy's Cove, a quaint cliffside town home to 35 residents and a working lighthouse that looks like something straight out of a 19th-century novel. It's only a 40-minute drive each way, so you could easily cover it off in a morning. Where to begin with Mahone Bay. This vibrant seaside town is packed with charm, and my time exploring its colourful streets and magnificent outskirts was the highlight of my time in Nova Scotia. I stayed in Black Forest Cabins ($239 or £129 minimum per night), a farmhouse retreat hidden among trees but close to restaurants and pubs to try while you're visiting. The cabins are a two-minute walk from the Bay-to-Bay trail, which you can bike or walk. I spent the evening surrounded by birdsong, undisturbed by anyone, reading a book on a bench by a babbling stream. The Black Forest is a great base to explore the surrounding area. Culture vultures can visit filming locations for TV shows such as Solomon's Crossing and We Were Liars. Elsewhere, the turquoise water of St Margaret's Bay is perfect for wild swimming, while Chester village also has a beautiful natural saltwater pool. If you prefer to stay on dry land, I recommend booking a tour of the small islands hugging this part of the coast with Salty Dog Sea Tours ($86/£46 per adult). Not only do you get the history of the famed Oak Island (the subject of a 12-season-long reality TV show thanks to 250-year-old rumours of treasure), but if you ask, you might get a chance to do some seal and shark spotting like we did. There's nothing like feeling salty air in your hair as you bounce along the waves. This sprawling national park ($6.50/£3.50 for a day pass) is the perfect way to spend anything from a day to a week-long camping trip. At Mills Falls, a spectacular natural waterfall that's easily accessible on foot, you can swim and sunbathe. Thrillseekers can paddle along the streams, and hikers will find plenty of viewpoints to pitch up at. If you're interested in learning more about the Mi'kmawq community, the park offers guided tours with local elders who explain the deep relationship between the community and the land. Avoid Friday and Saturday when the park is at its busiest. I visited on Sunday afternoon, and it was practically deserted. The Evangeline Trail meanders for 292km of scenic roadway, past rolling hills and green fields along the Western and Northern parts of Nova Scotia. You'll need to rent a car for this one, but if you or someone you're travelling with can drive, it's worth it. This part of the province prides itself on being the 'land of Orchards, Vineyards and Tides', so there are plenty of eye-catching stops along the way to break up the journey and stretch your legs. My favourite was Bridgetown, often referred to as the prettiest village in Nova Scotia. Seafood lovers should visit Hall's Harbour lobster pound, which has a restaurant on-site that serves 1.5lb lobster meals for $40/£21. I saw one man tucking into a seven-and-a-half-pound giant, with a personalised bib. Grand Pre National Historic Site ($9/£4.80 per adult) is a must-visit for history lovers to learn more about the native Acadian community and mythology. More Trending You can spend the night in this UNESCO World Heritage Site as you explore the local vineyards and acres of lush greenery for $133.25/£61 per night. Nearby is Wolfville, home to Nova Scotia's burgeoning wine scene. It's yet to be exported worldwide, so visiting is your only chance to taste the real deal (I'd recommend tasting the local special, Tidal Bay) Domaine de Grand Pre Winery, a family-run business, is just one of many you can visit for a tasting and their onsite restaurant, Le Caveau (chef's tasting menu is $80 or £43), is home to the most delicious food I tasted all trip. For a picture-perfect viewpoint, the nearby Evangeline Inn has a deserted lookout to steal a dreamy summer moment (and pretend you're Anne Shirley as I did). MORE: People didn't understand why a Black man would visit the North Pole MORE: I stuffed my bra before a Wizz Air flight — it saved me a fortune MORE: The UK's 'prettiest village' is a magical place — but time your visit wisely
Winnipeg Free Press
06-08-2025
- Winnipeg Free Press
I left my heart in the Maritimes
I am back from one of the most cup-filling trips in recent memory. I celebrated a dear friend's 40th birthday, I saw the sights, I made new friends and, at multiple points, laughed so hard I thought I was going to throw up. Here is a not-at-all comprehensive list of observations and highlights from my first-timer tour around Nova Scotia/Prince Edward Island. Advertisement Why this ad? The Best Thing I Ate Hand's down, it was the oft-recommended lobster roll at Richard's in Victoria-by-the-Sea, P.E.I. The much-recommended lobster roll at Richard's in Victoria-by-the-Sea, PEI You will have to wait in line. It will cost $33.50. It will be worth it. (Also, Victoria-by-the-Sea is the prettiest little seaside town I ever did see.) You Should Go In The Ocean We spent an afternoon on Summerville Beach, N.S., which is known for its turquoise water and soft sand. And, while I had put on my swimsuit, I really had no intention of going into the ocean. But I'm so glad I decided to splash around in the only sort-of-bracing waters of the North Atlantic. It was so fun and I felt so free. Highly recommend. The Confederation Bridge Is An Engineering Marvel It really is. Driving on the 12.9-kilometre bridge spanning the Northumberland Strait between P.E.I. and New Brunswick was very cool to this Prairie gal. And this will interest Winnipeggers: like Portage and Main, the Confederation Bridge was the subject of a plebiscite. Some Islanders were opposed to its construction, worried it would change their way of life. Ultimately, at the polls, 59.4 per cent of Islanders voted 'Yes' to a fixed link between the two provinces. It has been open since 1997. And if you're headed there soon, the bridge toll has dropped to $20. Elbows up, etc. A Peek Into Anne Shirley's Bedroom I had an emotional moment at Green Gables, visiting Anne Shirley's bedroom. Anne Shirley's bedroom Of course, it's not her actual bedroom as she is the fictional redhaired protagonist imagined by author Lucy Maud Montgomery. But the level of detail in her room — her carpet bag, her coveted puffed-sleeved dress, her books — was really moving. I thought about the story I recently did on the costumed interpreters at Lower Fort Garry, which is also a Parks Canada site, when I met 'Anne' and 'Diana.' What they do really is a bit of magic. Also Anne of Green Gables is deeply embedded in the iconography of the island, as you can imagine — so much so that we drove past a business whose logo was, I'm not kidding, a cartoon lobster wearing the Anne hat and braids. Home Decorating with Maud Lewis The Art Gallery of Nova Scotia in Halifax has a permanent exhibit dedicated to the art of Maud Lewis, the celebrated Canadian folk artist (and Nova Scotia native) known for her whimsical story-book paintings of landscapes, animals and tulips. Maud Lewis's window The coolest part of this exhibit, which has been on view since 1998, is her actual house, restored for prosperity in the gallery. Everything was her canvas: her front door, her windows, her stove, her bread box — you name it, she painted it. She was a true maximalist who would be horrified by the idea of 'Millennial Grey.' Seeing Maud's cheery, art-filled house was an excellent reminder that we have free will. If you want to paint tulips on your stuff, you should. Don't Die For An Instagram Photo A small rant, if you'll permit: people are absolute menaces at Peggy's Cove. Peggy's Cove is stunning. I understand why it is one of the most photographed places in Canada. I understand why throngs of tourists visit it. What I don't understand is how willing people are to risk life and limb to get a photo. Peggy's Cove (from a respectful distance!!!!) I, personally, was scared straight by the plaques everywhere that read: 'WARNING: Injury and death have rewarded careless sight-seers here. The ocean and rocks are treacherous, savour the sea from a distance.' People were not savouring the sea from a distance. People were posing in ways that would absolutely result in injury if someone were to slip. People were fully letting their kids run (!!!) on the rocks. The local wisdom is to avoid the black rocks; now, they have a security person who aggressively blows a whistle at you if you get too far out. But honestly, that terrain is tough. And yes, people have died there, swept away by rogue waves. The warnings at Peggy's Cove Even in the safer places, I felt a bit nervous. As I said to my pal who was crouched down on an incline trying to get me in front of the iconic Peggy's Cove Lighthouse: 'Please do not roll down a hill for a photo that I will almost certainly delete.' An Underappreciated Gift of Being 40 We almost stayed at a place in PEI that shall remain unnamed and its location undisclosed because I don't want to drag them too hard on a public forum, but let's just say they were playing fast and loose with the term 'glamping' which is supposed to be a portmanteau of 'glam' and 'camping,' not a word for 'somehow worse than camping.' We immediately fired up Nexties, when I tell you there is no limit to the dollar amount I would've thrown at this problem, I'm not kidding. Even if the only room available in the entire region cost $800 and was also in Sackville, New Brunswick, I would say, 'Yes, perfect, here is my credit card.' This is the gift of being grown. As another BFF put it after I recounted this story to her: 'You have clarity of your standards and the means to achieve them.' Amen. We ended up staying in a Days Inn motel that felt like the Ritz and was somehow cheaper than our original accommodations. And you know what? I had the best sleep of the trip that night.
CBC
29-03-2025
- Entertainment
- CBC
In Halifax, you'll find amazing art where you least expect it
Destination: Art is a series uncovering some of Canada's unique, unexpected and under-the-radar art experiences. With spring in the air, adventure on the mind and many looking to explore more Canada, CBC Arts is adding some new attractions for readers who want to discover the treasures hiding in their own backyard. Home to the biggest art gallery in Atlantic Canada, Halifax is nevertheless a city full of art you won't find neatly framed on a white wall. From the Dartmouth ferry terminal to the famed waterfront, there are as many public spaces in Halifax as there are installations, murals and sculptures to fill them. "Public art has the opportunity to tell stories, to connect us to community, to recognize achievements and bolster community pride" says Lindsay Cory, the city's community developer for public art. One of Cory's favourite pieces is Lace/Wood at the newly reopened Keshen Goodman Public Library. Created by Andrea Tsang Jackson, the interactive mural enlivens the children's section. But that isn't the only public art worth highlighting. We talked to local art experts and artists about the best works hiding in plain sight all over the city. Got Drunk, Fell Down and Fountain (2013) Location: Bishop's Landing, Halifax waterfront One look at this artwork on the waterfront boardwalk and you'll get why locals refer to it as the "Drunk Lampposts" and why it's the site of a thousand selfies. Since 2013, Chris Hanson and Hendrika Sonnenberg's twisted lampposts have parodied the after-hours stagger home you can witness downtown any Friday night. The lampposts were originally commissioned for Toronto's Nuit Blanche, and came to town as part of a temporary display before becoming a permanent fixture. And yes, they really light up after dark. But the reason Art Gallery of Nova Scotia head curator David Diviney loves the piece, and walks by it almost daily, is simple: "because it is so smart and funny." "These sculptures take the form of functioning street lamps doing some particularly human things," he says. "The diptych Got Drunk, Fell Down features a fallen light standard, while a second lamp seems to look on with concern. And Fountain illustrates a biological need [peeing] not frequently associated with keeping our streets illuminated after dark." Diviney also points to the impact the beloved work has had on the waterfront. "The site was formerly a helipad and kind of off the beaten path," he says. "So this part of the boardwalk wasn't being used very much by the public. These lamp-like sculptures act like beacons, drawing people towards this site that is now busy with all types of activities." The Wave (1988) Location: Lower Water Street, Halifax waterfront When asked what piece of public art stands out to her the most, Sally Wolchyn-Raab — co-director of Eyelevel Gallery, one of the city's oldest artist-run centres — names The Wave by artist Donna Hiebert. It's a piece on the Halifax waterfront that rivals Got Drunk, Fell Down in fame. The Wave first arrived on the boardwalk in the late 1980s, an early example of public art in the city. The blue standalone piece sits in the middle of the boardwalk, surrounded by spongy flooring for the safety of those who ignore the engraved stone sign warning "For your protection, do not climb." "As an art object, The Wave is pretty meh," Wolchyn-Raab says. "But the way that people interact with it is so magical. I love seeing when public art becomes a gathering point or a play structure, and I hope they let kids keep sliding down the side of it forever." Squaretown Courts (2024) Location: George Dixon Centre Park basketball courts, 2501 Gottingen St. Newly upgraded basketball courts unveiled at Uniacke Square 7 months ago Duration 2:24 Multi-hyphenate Duane Jones points to the heart of Halifax's North End when naming his favourite public art. "I'm biased, but it's a piece that I designed: the murals on the George Dixon Community Centre's outdoor basketball courts," he says. Located in Uniacke Square — where many Black families moved after the city displaced them from the community of Africville in the 1960s — Jones's mural on the surface of the basketball courts was unveiled last year and highlights the vibrancy and roots of the area. It's called Squaretown Courts after one of the neighbourhood's nicknames. "I love that it's a practical artwork that's intended to be interacted with, that shines a positive light on a community that's often overlooked," Jones says. "I love that it shows where sport, art and culture overlap. Many people think we have to be interested in one or the other, but these things exist on spectrums." Jones drew inspiration from colours associated with Pan-African unity and got input from local ballers, tapping into the community's long-standing love of the game. "It's become a must-see landmark for people of African descent who love basketball," the artist says. "It's also made people want to use the space more, build friendships and community connections." Annie Mae Pictou Aquash Legacy Mural (2023) Location: 2576 Agricola St. Poet and novelist Sue Goyette's favourite public art in Halifax is a mural, which towers over a tiny parking lot on Agricola Street, one of the city's most happening thoroughfares. Painted by Tayla Paul and facilitated by the local Wonder'Neath Art Society, it pays homage to Annie Mae Pictou Aquash, an educator and activist from Sipekne'katik First Nation who was murdered in South Dakota in 1975. "It surprised me, the first time I saw the mural," Goyette says. "I knew it had been painted and knew I was in its vicinity, but hadn't expected to be as moved as I was when I actually saw it in real life. "It's such a dynamic painting. I love how its details show many aspects of Annie Mae's legacy and life. I also love the vibrancy of it. How bright and pure the colours are and how much heart it contributes to the street and community." Goyette also appreciates that the mural "creates a site of legacy and memorialization for this fierce Indigenous woman in this singular time we're in." "I always walk towards this mural intent on honouring Annie Mae's memory and appreciate the opportunity it gives me to reflect on the violence that is still ongoing for Indigenous peoples," she says. "This learning impacts my understanding of how I can contribute to changing that. I also fiercely admire Annie Mae's spirit and strength and am grateful for being reminded of it in this vital and visual way." Dartmouth Word Murals (2020) Kat McCormack, an actor and the artistic director of Eastern Front Theatre, is proudly Dartmouth born and raised, so it's not surprising her favourite public art is scattered around the streets so close to her heart. The 14 murals, meant to inspire the community during the COVID-19 pandemic, feature inspirational phrases like "Be kind" and "You got this." "They're so simple and so huge and so positive," McCormack says. "I feel happy every time I see one. I'm not even sure that I've seen them all yet. "What touches me about this project is that it seems to care for us and this community. It says so loudly that this place and these people matter." The pieces, created by Fathom Studio, have become a visual treasure hunt since they were unveiled in 2020. "They popped up seemingly overnight during COVID, so there was a very exciting thrill and sense of discovery and awe attached. They made a big impact because we were all discovering them at the same time." Adds McCormack: "For as long as I can remember, downtown Dartmouth has had a bad rap, and this art project is just another awesome example of how powerful the sense of community is here. "It's important to care for the place that you live in, and this piece flips that idea around and shows us that this place cares for us too. It has become another point of pride and reflection."
