11 hours ago
The Scott hotel, Edinburgh: a tranquil, trendy escape from the city
I'm sipping fizz in a grand baronial drawing room with original 1750s ruby-red velvet walls, gilded cornicing and a vast marble fireplace. I'm not sure what I was expecting from a hotel owned by Edinburgh University — let's not forget, it also owns some decidedly unplush student halls — but this elegant, low-lit, seductively grown-up spot sure ain't it.
I have come to the Scott, a handsome, turreted 18th-century mansion less than 30 yards from Pollock Halls student accommodation — but a lifetime from the spartan vibe of undergrad living. Reopened in 2022 after a boutique makeover by its owner, the University of Edinburgh Hospitality Collection, the Scott is a just-right marriage of the traditional and the contemporary: think original oak-panelled halls with striking modern artworks from Glasgow's Artpistol gallery; lipstick-pink chaises longues in high lounges with corniced ceilings.
The bedrooms feel more modern. There are 36 in all, each with a distinct design, though marble bathrooms, tall windows and the semi-obligatory 'boutique hotel' teals, greys and greens are a common theme, with colourful paintings, bright cushions and throws adding pleasing pops of colour. The bathtub in my room was enormous, coupled with a curiously low toilet seat. Cards with messages to be mindful, left on your pillow, were an unusual — and actually quite welcome — touch; the whiskies and complimentary salted caramel chocolates were a winner.
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Crucially, given its proximity to Pollock Halls, the hotel is wonderfully quiet. Despite staying on a Saturday night, we heard not a peep from our neighbours. No student raves, no loud teenagers fumbling in the dark for keys as they returned from Sneaky Pete's in the wee hours.
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The real star at the Scott is the dining room, Bonnar's. Dominated by a magnificent fresco by the 19th-century interior designer and architect Thomas Bonnar, the restaurant oozes an elegant, rococo vibe. Headed by Pier Berretta — the Italian chef has worked at Noma in Copenhagen as well as a galaxy of Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris — the restaurant's focus is local, seasonal and delicious, with seafood from Peterhead and many ingredients harvested from the hotel's kitchen garden.
With mains starting at £20 and a five-course tasting menu for £65, Bonnar's feels like a pretty good deal considering the pedigree of its chef and the quality of its food. Spacing between tables and soft background jazz cultivates an intimate atmosphere too — though I could have done without the clank of cutlery towards the end of our meal as staff set up for breakfast.
Still, it did mean we went through to the Velvet Lounge for a nightcap a bit earlier than we might otherwise have done, and for that I will be for ever grateful — not least because it was about to close for the evening. It was a shame, because this is a wonderfully moody speakeasy for a whisky cocktail or two — with original velvet walls, soft, seductive lighting and blue crushed-velvet armchairs that wouldn't look out of place in Soho House. Some music would have helped too, but that may just be me; guests coming for peace and calm away from Auld Reekie will feel considerably less aggrieved.
Back in my room, a French 75 in one hand and an espresso martini in the other (when in doubt, double slainte), I found myself reflecting on what makes this place special. It's not the view — mine was of a driveway, not Arthur's Seat or Holyrood Park — nor do you get a sense that trendy interiors are king. It's the quiet, the attention to detail, the sense that every little thing has been considered to make you feel, if not at home, then at least somewhere maybe even better than your home. As I drained the last of the prosecco and sank into the oversized bed, I realised the Scott isn't trying to dazzle you. It's trying to soothe you. And in a city as lively as Edinburgh that's no small feat — even if the toilet was ridiculously Halford was a guest of the Scott (B&B doubles from £195,