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Asahi Shimbun
31-07-2025
- Science
- Asahi Shimbun
Miso produced in 1st fermentation attempt in space tasted 'nuttier'
Miso that has been returned to Earth after being fermented in space (Provided by Maggie Coblentz) In one small step for astronaut foods and one giant leap for Japanese cuisine, miso became the first successful fermentation in space, although it had a stronger flavor than paste produced on Earth. A scientific paper was published this past spring trumpeting the success aboard the International Space Station. The U.S. and European researchers who conducted the study chose miso, instead of cheese or wine, as the food item to be fermented. An interview with leading authors of the article showed their enthusiasm for the selection of the traditional Japanese condiment. 'I think 'surreal' is the word.' 'Yeah, it was crazy.' Maggie Coblentz, a research affiliate of space food with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology Media Lab, and Joshua Evans, a senior researcher of fermented foods with the Technical University of Denmark's Center for Biosustainability, sounded excited as they were interviewed. A group of scientists including Coblentz and Evans prepared a mixture of steamed soybeans, rice koji (boiled rice fermented with the Aspergillus oryzae fungus) and salt, and put several hundred grams of the paste in a transparent, semihermetic container. They sent the mixture aboard a rocket to the International Space Station in March 2020. The space facility is under 'microgravity,' equivalent to one-10,000th to one-one-millionth of the gravity on Earth. The paste was kept for about 30 days in a special box that can sense changes in temperature, humidity, off-gassing and other conditions. The container was returned safely to Earth, even though the power supply was disrupted a few times. The scientists said they had to overcome many hurdles during the experiment. They received a succession of inquiries from the ISS operator, including on the possible toxicity of the fermentation and on potential impact on other equipment aboard the ISS. They grappled with mountains of documents to clear the rigorous safety standards one by one. That was a single-shot test, wherein the experimental equipment couldn't have been repaired even if had succumbed to abnormalities in space. The researchers were told, ahead of the rocket lift-off, that a strange smell was coming from their equipment. They explained that was just the miso, giving off a beautiful aroma. CLOSE SHAVE OF 3 DAYS The rocket was launched around the time COVID-19 was raging across the globe. Evans said that, had the lift-off been scheduled for three days later, the experiment could have been rendered impossible by the pandemic-imposed lockdowns. Analysis of samples taken from the container of the miso raw materials showed they contained microbes of the same species that are found in miso fermented on Earth. The scientists concluded, on the basis of the taste, aromas and ingredients, that miso was present. Following peer-reviews and other procedures, their article was published in iScience, a U.S. science journal, in April to describe what they label as the first food fermentation experiment in space. Western media outlets covered the topic of the 'space miso' one after another. That is considered the first time that food was fermented aboard the ISS, even though a test culture of yeast cells, wine maturing, and other processes had taken place earlier in space. The researchers said the space miso contained more glutamic acid, an umami ingredient, than miso made from the same raw materials during the same period on Earth, and had a stronger 'nutty' and 'roasted' aroma. But lactic acid bacteria and yeasts, both of which are considered essential for Japanese miso production, were not found in the space miso. A chef who has lived in Japan used the space miso residue from the experiment to prepare miso soup, which members of the research team relished. 'Bringing it to space was really exciting for us to expand the creativity and the challenge of how to cook and prepare miso,' Evans said. 'It offered me the chance to view Earth as if I were seeing it from space by proxy.' FOOD DIVERSITY INSTEAD OF BIAS Coblentz stressed food diversity as she explained why she and her colleagues chose miso for the first fermentation project in space. Western food items account for the bulk of the space food offered aboard the ISS. 'Much of the research on fermented foods has tended to be predominantly in English,' Evans said. 'There can sometimes be a bias toward Western products such as bread, cheese and wine. Why not use that platform to showcase a greater diversity of products and traditions?' Since it is said that humans have a reduced sense of taste in outer space, nutritional efficacy is the major consideration in space food. 'Something like miso is really powerful because it's so concentrated in umami, protein, and flavor, and it is very versatile culinarily,' Evans said. 'It struck us as the ideal choice.' There are expectations the latest experiment will mark a step toward food diversification, which would make long-term stays in space closer to life on Earth in the future. In addition, the experiment will also be helpful for research on fermentation processes under microgravity. The experiment used rice koji spores, an essential ingredient for miso production, that were manufactured by Bio'c Co., a seed koji maker based in Toyohashi, Aichi Prefecture. Bio'c officials said they learned of the fact only upon reading the article. 'I find it a great honor that our product was used there,' said Bio'c President Yuichiro Murai. 'Miso is popular in Western countries, where, as I have been told, many people eat it without knowing that it has its origins in Japan. I hope we will take this opportunity to advertise the charms of miso.' SAKE BREWER IN WAITING Dassai Inc., a sake brewer based in Iwakuni, Yamaguchi Prefecture, is hoping to follow on the heels of the miso fermentation by making Japanese rice wine in space. The company has plans to send a set of raw materials and equipment, aboard a domestically produced H3 rocket, to the ISS's Japanese experiment module Kibo by the end of this fiscal year. The raw materials will be placed in a special device for fermentation into 'moromi' sake mash, which will be returned to Earth in refrigerated storage, where it will be used to make a commercial product, Dassai officials said. A 100-milliliter bottle of sake from the project was put on sale, through a preorder, to the tune of about 100 million yen ($670,000). The preorder slot has already been sold, company officials added. Dassai CEO Kazuhiro Sakurai said he felt heartened by the space miso experiment, as he has ambitions to brew sake on the moon in the future. 'The fermentation process in space marks a very big step,' Sakurai said. 'Humans will need pleasures and delights when they expand their sphere of living to outer space in the future. I hope that sake has a role to play there.' Takeo Koizumi, director of the nonprofit Fermentation Culture Promotion Agency, sounded skeptical about the authenticity of the space miso. 'It remains open to question whether that could be called a miso of the sort that Japanese usually have in mind,' he said, pointing out that yeasts and other microbes were not found in the space miso. But Koizumi sounded more upbeat as he added: 'The very fact the space miso became the talk of the town across the world is a positive note for the future of Japan's fermentation culture.'
Mint
20-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
From kebabs to cocktails, kōji finds a new home in modern Indian dining
What happens when steamed grains are laid out under muslin, left to rest in warm, humid air? Within days, a delicate white bloom spreads across the surface, releasing a nutty, almost chestnut-like aroma. It might appear to be a science experiment, but, in fact, is a culinary revolution in slow motion—kōji, or Japanese fermented rice (or barley) mould that is quietly building flavour blocks in Indian gastronomy. Kōji has long been revered in Japan for its ability to break down starches and proteins into sugars and amino acids, unlocking deep savoury flavour, what chefs and scientists alike call umami. Once confined to Japanese kitchens, the fungi Aspergillus oryzae is now being harnessed by a growing tribe of Indian chefs, brewers and fermenters in creative ways. From reimagined tandoori marinades to kōji-laced cocktails, its applications are expanding fast. At INJA, the Indian-Japanese restaurant in Delhi, chef Adwait Anantwar uses kōji to make miso—a fermented soybean paste that uses kōji as a starter culture, rendering a unique flavour. He uses locally sourced cashews and peanuts to make miso tailored to local palates. It lends depth to curries, while a syrupy kōji glaze brightens up everything from chicken wings to a vegetarian banana bonito. Also read: Master the basics of miso to transform everyday home cooking The rise of kōji aligns with a global fermentation revival. While fermentation is integral to Indian food culture—think dosa, kanji, or pickles—kōji offers something more: precision. Traditional Indian fermentation methods are often more intuitive and variable. 'Kōji has an earthy sweetness that lends itself to both savoury and sweet dishes. Since we are always exploring and experimenting, it's good to have this tool as an ingredient in our arsenal," says Buland Shukla of Ferment Station in Goa, which is part of his restaurant For the Record. 'What's exciting about kōji is the control and creativity it offers," he adds. In his kitchen, the traditional bebinca is reimagined with chocolate and a roasted kōji mousse. In Mumbai, chef Hussain Shahzad of Hunger Inc. encountered kōji through acclaimed chef René Redzepi's book The Noma Guide to Fermentation. It's now a staple in his kitchens, from pao miso to shio kōji (a traditional Japanese seasoning made by fermenting kōji with salt and water) marinades. At Papa's, the 'Bugs Bunny" dish, grilled rabbit with mushroom garum (fermented sauce) and red weaver ant tare, gets a savoury depth from kōji. Kōji also enjoys a status in desserts, elevating them with a sweet-savoury-floral profile. At Bombay Sweet Shop, sous chef Tulsi Ponnappa, says, 'We use honey kōji for its gentle sweetness and umami, cooking it with rice for added creaminess, to make a honey kōji ice cream. It goes into a gulab jamun churro sandwich with caramelised banana, and a drizzle of shoyu kōji syrup. The result is a rich, balanced dessert with deep savoury-sweet layers and a lush mouthfeel," she says. Even traditionalists are exploring its power. Chef Mohib Farooqui of Accentuate Food Lab—a private dining space that is open only by reservation—in Aurangabad uses shio kōji to marinate Junglee Murgh, a rustic dish from Sailana in Madhya Pradesh. A four-hour application enhances flavour, locks moisture, and crisps the skin over a grill. Kōji is also filtering into India's beverage scene. In Pune, Great State Aleworks' founder Nakul Bhonsle uses kōji in his lager, just 5% of the grain bill, but enough to add a crisp finish and soft aroma. Arijit Bose of Spirit Forward in Bengaluru crafts modern cocktails like the Miso Old Fashioned, where miso lends salinity and roundness to a classic spirit-forward profile. Whereas the Red Miso Highball is a blend of salted butter-washed Japanese whisky, apricot syrup, and coconut soda. Kōji has been a key component in traditional Japanese drinks, specifically sake that first found its way into Indian fine dining in the early 2000s, led by high-end Japanese restaurants like Wasabi by Morimoto in Mumbai and MEGU in Delhi. The Asian restaurant boom that gained momentum since then gave rise to a higher demand for sake. On the outskirts of Mumbai, India's first certified sake brewer, Maia Laifungbam, is brewing sake with indigenous rice from the North-East. 'I got hooked on kōji the moment I saw what it could do to rice. It unlocks the grain's hidden personality, bringing out this gentle sweetness and complexity," she says. From reducing food waste to enhancing umami, kōji's appeal lies in its range of applications. It's being used to extend shelf life, build complexity in sauces, tenderise proteins, and even replace dairy or meat in plant-based cooking. In Goa, kōji maker Prachet Sancheti, also known as Brown Koji Boy, is turning food waste like jackfruit peels, coffee chaff and spent grains into flavour-rich pastes and garums. He makes his own kōji from scratch. 'We work with kōji the way most kitchens work with an egg—not as a centrepiece, but as a foundation," he says. His products—miso, syrups, sauces, and oils made from local grains—are used by chefs in kitchens across the country. Chef Jyoti at The Second House restaurant in Goa sees kōji as a way to rethink waste.'Kōji lets us transform kitchen scraps—like bread, peels and trimmings—into something new. We clean and prep them, mix in kōji, salt, and water, then let time and temperature do the work. The mould's enzymes break everything down into sugars and amino acids, layering flavour. We stir, sometimes age it for weeks or even months, to achieve a rich, umami-packed paste instead of waste." Even paneer is getting a kōji makeover. At Omny Kitchen, Gurugram, chef Vicky Ratnani relies on homegrown spores from Brown Koji Boy. He ages the paneer with kōji to develop a golden crust and deep, nutty flavour. 'Our kōji miso butter works on everything—from grilled corn to kebabs and even dal." India's kōji moment isn't driven by trends or social media virality. Like any good ferment, it's slow and sincere. What makes it powerful is how chefs are using kōji to rediscover local traditions and reimagine them for today. Also read: Why Japanese food is so much more than just sushi and ramen Insia Lacewalla is a Goa-based food and travel writer.
New York Times
22-04-2025
- General
- New York Times
The Funky, Fermented Roots of Japanese Cuisine
LUNCH IS ALL pickles at Kintame, a Kyoto shop that's made tsukemono ('pickled things') since 1879. Vegetables in tiny, tidy heaps appear on a radish-shaped plate, arranged like stops on a clock: white turnip cut thin as vellum, still juicy from a bath of rice vinegar and kelp; eggplant stained rose by purple shiso, mint-bright with smacks of cinnamon bark and cooling licorice; a knot of wild mustard greens, darkly tender and tingly, like a breath at the back of the neck. The country that changed modern culture and design, from A to Z Elsewhere these would be mere ornaments to a meal, stray bites to rouse the palate or brace it for the next course. Showcased here, as points of focus, they recalibrate your thinking. You become conscious of how these flavors — sourness, tang, funk and umami — run like a baseline through Japanese cuisine. Such are the yields of fermentation, here coming from the rice vinegar in the pickles, but present throughout the Japanese pantry in shoyu, miso, mirin and sake, all made by inoculating rice or soy beans with spores of koji (Aspergillus oryzae). Any soup or stew relies on dashi, a stock of kombu and katsuobushi — bonito that has been simmered, smoked, sun dried, repeatedly coated with mold and sun dried again until, almost purged of moisture, it clacks like wood when struck, then gets shaved into delicate curls that bring a briny earthiness, surf and turf in one. Fermentation was one of our earliest tools of survival, a way to preserve food from rot and eke out supplies in winter; some anthropologists have theorized that a lust for beer, a fermented beverage, drove Neolithic humans to start planting barley and build settlements around 10,000 years ago, which would make fermentation the foundation of civilization as we know it. Today 'everyone uses the refrigerator,' says Hiraku Ogura, 41, who runs Hakko Department, a Tokyo grocery store and cafe that specializes in ferments. Still we crave this flavor of arrested time, of something left to languish in the dark, perhaps because the taste of fermentation goes back to our first understanding of what taste is. FERMENTATION ISN'T UNIQUE to Japan, but arguably no other nation has so fully committed to it. An archipelago nearly 2,500 miles north of the Equator, Japan lacks the climate to grow the kind of rich, vivid spices abundant in South and Southeast Asia, and its isolation, by geography and by choice, kept it on the margins of the spice trade. For flavor it had to look within, to the harvest of its fields and the surrounding sea. Fermentation turns a restricted set of ingredients into a bounty. Ogura, an anthropologist by training, has traveled across the country documenting the microbiomes and climatic conditions that shape local ferments. His ancestors on the island of Kyushu, for example, were whale hunters who thought of their prey not as their victim or mere food but as a kind of god. Out of reverence for the animal, they created a pickle from its bones and cartilage to ensure no part was wasted. Explore More Read the editor's letter here. Take a closer look at the covers. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Yahoo
08-04-2025
- Science
- Yahoo
Fermenting Miso in Space Gives It a Unique Flavor, Study Finds
There's something about the space environment that changes the flavor of miso in interesting and subtle ways. An experiment to create the fermented soybean paste simultaneously here on Earth and aboard the International Space Station found that the space miso tasted intriguingly nuttier and more roasted than miso produced at the same time in the US and Denmark. "Fermentation [on the ISS] illustrates how a living system at the microbial scale can thrive through the diversity of its microbial community, emphasizing the potential for life to exist in space," says industrial design scientist Maggie Coblentz of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. "While the ISS is often seen as a sterile environment, our research shows that microbes and non-human life have agency in space, raising significant bioethical questions about removing plants and microbes from their home planet and introducing them to extraterrestrial environments." Miso is a tasty, salty fermented paste used extensively in Japanese cuisine. It's made from steamed soybeans, salt, grains such as rice or barley, and kōji (Aspergillus oryzae), the fungus behind the miso fermentation process. The team's experimental setup was pretty simple. The researchers prepared three batches of miso starter, then sent these batches to the three different locations: Cambridge, Massachusetts; Copenhagen; and low-Earth orbit aboard the International Space Station. In the higher-radiation and microgravity environment of the ISS, the experimental batch fermented for 30 days, housed inside a specially designed sensing box that monitored temperature, humidity, pressure, light, and radiation. Meanwhile, the Cambridge batch was housed in an identical box, but the Copenhagen batch was not. This allowed the Copenhagen batch to serve as a control to gauge whether the sensing box itself altered the fermentation process. Once the 30-day fermentation process was complete, the miso was shuttled back home to Earth to be analyzed and compared to the two terrestrial control batches. That analysis involved genome sequencing to study the microbe populations in the miso pastes, assessment of the physical properties such as texture and color, and an evaluation of the flavor profiles. The space miso fermented successfully, but it was noticeably different from the Earth miso pastes. The microbial communities in the space miso, for example, contained higher populations of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus warneri, possibly as a result of the warmer temperature on the space station. In addition, the bacterium Bacillus velezensis was only identified in the space miso. As for the flavor of the three miso pastes, all had similar aroma compounds and amino acids, and the characteristic yummy salty flavor expected. However, the space miso was nuttier and more roasted in taste, the researchers found. This flavor is associated with pyrazine compounds that probably emerged as a result of the higher ISS temperatures too, which would have accelerated the fermentation process. It's a fascinating result that demonstrates the differences environmental tweaks can make on how life organizes itself, and how we might eat as we explore the stars – especially since our sense of taste is dulled in microgravity. "By bringing together microbiology, flavor chemistry, sensory science, and larger social and cultural considerations, our study opens up new directions to explore how life changes when it travels to new environments like space," says food scientist Joshua Evans of the Technical University of Denmark. "It could enhance astronaut well-being and performance, especially on future long-term space missions. More broadly, it could invite new forms of culinary expression, expanding and diversifying culinary and cultural representation in space exploration as the field grows." The research has been published in iScience. Rare Star Doomed to Explode Finally Confirms Astronomical Prediction Tardigrades Reveal The Secret to Surviving The Extremes of Space New NASA Space Telescope Unveils Its First-Ever Images
