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Business Mayor
04-05-2025
- Business Mayor
From the mountains to the Med: a self-guided walk in Provence, France
B ehind Cassis beach, the castle-topped cliffs glint red-gold in the late afternoon sun. Couples stroll on the sand, kids play on the carousel, pastel-coloured buildings reflect in the still waters of the old harbour. In the main square, lined by plane trees, a group of elderly men concentrate on a game of petanque. It's a charming slice of Provençal life, a world away from the Cote D'Azur's more glitzy hotspots. In summer, tourists flock to the narrow streets and pretty coast, but off season the buzz is gentler, with weekenders feasting on bouillabaisse along the water's edge. I grab a seat at a bar overlooking the Med and check out my walking route for the next day. Cassis is in the heart of the Calanques national park – an extraordinary place of steep fjord-like limestone inlets, deep green pines and turquoise sea – perfect for exploring on foot. It's a fitting finale to a solo self-guided hiking trip with Macs Adventure, which has taken me from the Sainte-Baume mountains down to the Riviera over six days. While my hiking legs have been put to the test with up to six hours of walking each day, I've not had to worry about logistics. The routes are plotted on the app and my luggage is transferred ahead, leaving me to simply enjoy the scenery. Solo travel is on the rise, according to the Association of British Travel Agents and tour operators (17% of Macs Adventure trips were booked by single travellers last year – most of them women). Offering the freedom to go at my own pace without having to interact with a group, but with help on hand if needed, this trip promised a winning mix of adventure and comfort; an ideal way to explore less-trodden Provence alone. The seafront at Cassis with Cap Canaille looming behind. Photograph: Davide Guidolin/Alamy My adventure begins with a night in the village of Pont-de-l'Étoile, 30 minutes east of Marseille by taxi, before I set out on my first hike: 10 miles (16km) to Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume. Tarmac soon gives way to stony paths as I leave urban streets behind and climb towards the ridge above Vallon St-Clair through a landscape of craggy limestone valleys, softened by shrubs such as cistus and broom and pockets of pine and oak woodland. Close to the ancient chapel of St-Clair, a mountain biker whizzes past but then silence descends again and there's just me and sweeping views all the way back to Marseille. My smugness morphs into contained panic when my phone battery dies and I realise I've left my paper map and power bank behind In summer, there is an acute risk of wildfires in this part of France, and water cisterns dot the route (it's advisable to do this hike in spring or autumn). I climb what looks like a giant wooden chair (a lookout tower perhaps?) to picnic under the bluest skies, then continue upwards along narrow tracks towards Col de Bertagne. There's no one around. I'm nailing it as a solo hiker, I think. But my smugness morphs into contained panic when my phone battery dies and I realise I've left my paper map and power bank behind. There is no one around. I take a punt and scramble down the hillside, battling through dense forest until I find a path which eventually leads to a road. More through luck than judgement, I find myself in Plan-d'Aups and the welcome sight of the Hôtel Lou Pèbre d'Aï – my home for the next two nights – just two hours later than planned. I'm delighted to find my room has a bath and sleep deeply that night. Read More Tickets for the hugely popular Santa Steam Express go on sale 'Walkers love it here,' the receptionist tells me as I prepare to head off the next day, 'the mountains are sacred – you'll see.' Indeed, the Massif Sainte-Baume draws pilgrims to its hidden chapels and holy sites. Today's circular walk is nine miles; I climb steep paths through woods to a ridge which I follow for a couple of hours, with 360-degree views across countryside and coast. The route takes me past shrines, hermit caves and the Sanctuary of Mary Magdalene (she's said to have lived a life of penance here for many years) before a shady forested descent. Sanctuary of Mary Magdalene, on the Massif Sainte-Baume. Photograph: Herve Lenain/Alamy That night I dine on endives with walnuts and goat's cheese and monkfish in a Provençal sauce – the hotel is known for its cuisine prepared by chef Jérôme. On a table nearby, an elderly man gets out an A4-size image of a gilded saintly figure and props it up next to him while he eats, like a friend joining him for dinner. I think it's Mary Magdalene. skip past newsletter promotion Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays Privacy Notice: Newsletters may contain info about charities, online ads, and content funded by outside parties. For more information see our Privacy Policy. We use Google reCaptcha to protect our website and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. after newsletter promotion On a stretch of coast known more for the glamour of Saint-Tropez, Cannes and Nice, it's refreshing to discover La Ciotat The delightful town of Gémenos is 20 minutes by road from Plan-d'Aups, but the route I follow the next day takes five hours – and is perhaps my favourite walk yet. It feels wild and remote, with paths zigzagging next to deep gorges. I pass the ruins of a Cistercian abbey and follow a river into pretty parkland. From here it's two short bus rides down to Cassis, and flashes of ocean appear between the trees. Three nights at the Hotel Royal Cottage and a new landscape await. On a stretch of coast known more for the glamour of Saint-Tropez, Cannes and Nice, it's refreshing to discover La Ciotat – an unpretentious former shipbuilding town a 15-minute taxi ride east of Cassis. I wander suburban streets then climb to the top of the Soubeyran cliffs – the highest sea cliffs in France at Cap Canaille. Lingering morning mist clears to reveal the spectacular indented coastline as I follow the winding Route des Crêtes back. The path above Port-Pin. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy My last day is saved for the Calanques to the west of Cassis. The wind is up and rain is threatened but I head out past the sprawling villas on the outskirts of town and soon reach the Calanque de Port-Miou, boats bobbing on agitated water. In high summer, visitor numbers to the park are restricted to protect the delicate environment. Today I'm almost alone as I scramble up and down, descending to the white beach of Port-Pin, climbing above Calanque d'en-Vau, then descending again through a rocky ravine to the water. Its beauty feels even more raw under the darkening sky and distant roll of thunder. The heavens open as I begin the return journey and I arrive back in Cassis completely drenched. Heavy rain turns roads into rivers, flowing down towards the sea. I take refuge at Le Bonaparte, a family-run bistro in one of the backstreets. Dressed head-to-toe in black, complete with beret, owner Jean Marie tells me he's run the place for 37 years – 'and people still come back for more!' I'm not surprised, I tell him, when I taste the moules gratinées and deliciously fresh sea bass – accompanied by a glass of the local white wine de Cassis. It's an authentic taste of Provence – and, I feel, an appropriate way to toast an epic solo adventure through a special and varied part of France. The trip was provided by Macs Adventure . Seven-day self-guided Provence Mountains to the Mediterranean itinerary from £1,125 pp, including hotel accommodation, breakfast, two dinners, transfers, luggage transfers, route notes , GPS navigation and 24/7 support


The Guardian
04-05-2025
- The Guardian
From the mountains to the Med: a self-guided walk in Provence, France
Behind Cassis beach, the castle-topped cliffs glint red-gold in the late afternoon sun. Couples stroll on the sand, kids play on the carousel, pastel-coloured buildings reflect in the still waters of the old harbour. In the main square, lined by plane trees, a group of elderly men concentrate on a game of petanque. It's a charming slice of Provençal life, a world away from the Cote D'Azur's more glitzy hotspots. In summer, tourists flock to the narrow streets and pretty coast, but off season the buzz is gentler, with weekenders feasting on bouillabaisse along the water's edge. I grab a seat at a bar overlooking the Med and check out my walking route for the next day. Cassis is in the heart of the Calanques national park – an extraordinary place of steep fjord-like limestone inlets, deep green pines and turquoise sea – perfect for exploring on foot. It's a fitting finale to a solo self-guided hiking trip with Macs Adventure, which has taken me from the Sainte-Baume mountains down to the Riviera over six days. While my hiking legs have been put to the test with up to six hours of walking each day, I've not had to worry about logistics. The routes are plotted on the app and my luggage is transferred ahead, leaving me to simply enjoy the scenery. Solo travel is on the rise, according to the Association of British Travel Agents and tour operators (17% of Macs Adventure trips were booked by single travellers last year – most of them women). Offering the freedom to go at my own pace without having to interact with a group, but with help on hand if needed, this trip promised a winning mix of adventure and comfort; an ideal way to explore less-trodden Provence alone. My adventure begins with a night in the village of Pont-de-l'Étoile, 30 minutes east of Marseille by taxi, before I set out on my first hike: 10 miles (16km) to Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume. Tarmac soon gives way to stony paths as I leave urban streets behind and climb towards the ridge above Vallon St-Clair through a landscape of craggy limestone valleys, softened by shrubs such as cistus and broom and pockets of pine and oak woodland. Close to the ancient chapel of St-Clair, a mountain biker whizzes past but then silence descends again and there's just me and sweeping views all the way back to Marseille. In summer, there is an acute risk of wildfires in this part of France, and water cisterns dot the route (it's advisable to do this hike in spring or autumn). I climb what looks like a giant wooden chair (a lookout tower perhaps?) to picnic under the bluest skies, then continue upwards along narrow tracks towards Col de Bertagne. There's no one around. I'm nailing it as a solo hiker, I think. But my smugness morphs into contained panic when my phone battery dies and I realise I've left my paper map and power bank behind. There is no one around. I take a punt and scramble down the hillside, battling through dense forest until I find a path which eventually leads to a road. More through luck than judgement, I find myself in Plan-d'Aups and the welcome sight of the Hôtel Lou Pèbre d'Aï – my home for the next two nights – just two hours later than planned. I'm delighted to find my room has a bath and sleep deeply that night. 'Walkers love it here,' the receptionist tells me as I prepare to head off the next day, 'the mountains are sacred – you'll see.' Indeed, the Massif Sainte-Baume draws pilgrims to its hidden chapels and holy sites. Today's circular walk is nine miles; I climb steep paths through woods to a ridge which I follow for a couple of hours, with 360-degree views across countryside and coast. The route takes me past shrines, hermit caves and the Sanctuary of Mary Magdalene (she's said to have lived a life of penance here for many years) before a shady forested descent. That night I dine on endives with walnuts and goat's cheese and monkfish in a Provençal sauce – the hotel is known for its cuisine prepared by chef Jérôme. On a table nearby, an elderly man gets out an A4-size image of a gilded saintly figure and props it up next to him while he eats, like a friend joining him for dinner. I think it's Mary Magdalene. Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion The delightful town of Gémenos is 20 minutes by road from Plan-d'Aups, but the route I follow the next day takes five hours – and is perhaps my favourite walk yet. It feels wild and remote, with paths zigzagging next to deep gorges. I pass the ruins of a Cistercian abbey and follow a river into pretty parkland. From here it's two short bus rides down to Cassis, and flashes of ocean appear between the trees. Three nights at the Hotel Royal Cottage and a new landscape await. On a stretch of coast known more for the glamour of Saint-Tropez, Cannes and Nice, it's refreshing to discover La Ciotat – an unpretentious former shipbuilding town a 15-minute taxi ride east of Cassis. I wander suburban streets then climb to the top of the Soubeyran cliffs – the highest sea cliffs in France at Cap Canaille. Lingering morning mist clears to reveal the spectacular indented coastline as I follow the winding Route des Crêtes back. My last day is saved for the Calanques to the west of Cassis. The wind is up and rain is threatened but I head out past the sprawling villas on the outskirts of town and soon reach the Calanque de Port-Miou, boats bobbing on agitated water. In high summer, visitor numbers to the park are restricted to protect the delicate environment. Today I'm almost alone as I scramble up and down, descending to the white beach of Port-Pin, climbing above Calanque d'en-Vau, then descending again through a rocky ravine to the water. Its beauty feels even more raw under the darkening sky and distant roll of thunder. The heavens open as I begin the return journey and I arrive back in Cassis completely drenched. Heavy rain turns roads into rivers, flowing down towards the sea. I take refuge at Le Bonaparte, a family-run bistro in one of the backstreets. Dressed head-to-toe in black, complete with beret, owner Jean Marie tells me he's run the place for 37 years – 'and people still come back for more!' I'm not surprised, I tell him, when I taste the moules gratinées and deliciously fresh sea bass – accompanied by a glass of the local white wine de Cassis. It's an authentic taste of Provence – and, I feel, an appropriate way to toast an epic solo adventure through a special and varied part of trip was provided by Macs Adventure. Seven-day self-guided Provence Mountains to the Mediterranean itinerary from £1,125pp, including hotel accommodation, breakfast, two dinners, transfers, luggage transfers, route notes, GPS navigation and 24/7 support


Euronews
04-04-2025
- Euronews
ETIAS scams: Everything Brits need to know about EU travel as ETA launch causes confusion
ADVERTISEMENT Brits planning travel to Europe are being warned by an industry body not to fall for scams amid confusion over entry and exit rules. With the UK's Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) coming into force this week, scammers are busy taking advantage of the uncertainty. The Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA) has warned of fake websites offering a similar pass to British travellers heading into mainland Europe. From 2 April, Europeans who don't have a British passport are required to obtain an ETA to visit the UK. The Electronic Travel Information and Authorisation System (ETIAS) is a similar system that will affect UK travellers heading to Europe. However, ETIAS is not due to launch for another 18 months , and there is presently no requirement for Brits to obtain any additional documentation to travel. What authorisations are currently required for travel between the UK and the EU? The UK's ETA came into force for Europeans on 2 April, and means any EU passport holders will need to apply for and secure an ETA before visiting the UK. The scheme has been live for visitors from non-European visa-free nationalities since January. However, its rollout has come with plenty of hiccups and confusion . Related UK plans price hike for ETA travel permit just days after launch: What it costs and how to apply UK ETA travel permit: British dual nationals flag issues with application system 'If you have friends, family, or business associates visiting from abroad, they'll need to check if they need to get an ETA,' says ABTA. 'This is one of three changes coming up for travelling across borders between the EU and UK, but the only one to have gone live, meaning there is scope for confusion.' There is an equivalent rule coming in for Brits traveling to Europe - the ETIAS. However, the ETIAS won't be introduced until the new EU Entry/Exit system (EES) goes live. The EES has been pushed back several times already, but is presently anticipated to launch in October 2025 . It will be rolled out in stages, so not all changes will take effect immediately. The ETIAS is expected to be introduced in 2026, and ABTA says likely not before the end of 2026. Even then, ETIAS is expected to be optional for at least six months. Right now, there is no additional documentation required for Brits to holiday in Europe. 'With three new changes coming in over the next couple of years, we're keen that people understand what it means for them,' says Graeme Buck, director of communications at ABTA. 'In short, the only thing to act on now is for European visitors to the UK to apply for an ETA. Nothing will be changing for UK travellers going to Europe this summer.' Related ETIAS: The new visa waiver Brits need to enter the EU in 2025, what it costs and who gets it free EES to launch in October 2025. How will the border check system affect crossing times? How to apply for ETIAS when it comes into effect ETIAS will be similar to the US ESTA scheme, where a simple online application grants permission to travel within the relevant area for a period of time. For the EU scheme, the cost of an ETIAS is expected to be around €7 and will be valid for up to three years (or until the passport reaches three months to expiry). It will allow British visitors to stay in any EU country (or countries) for up to 90 days in any 180 day period. According to the EU, third-country nationals, including the UK, will be granted a 'grace period' of six months on a one-time basis if they forget their ETIAS. 'Those coming to Europe for the first time since the end of the transitional period will be allowed to enter without an ETIAS provided they fulfil all remaining entry conditions,' the EU says. ADVERTISEMENT ABTA warns that "people who try to apply for an ETIAS now may be at risk of fraud, with a loss of money and possibly personal data too." When the time does come, the only place to apply for an ETIAS will be on the official website . Any apps, websites, or social media posts suggesting there is an alternative route are impostors. The only place to get an ETIAS in 2026 will be the official website. European Union Travellers will need to submit personal information and passport data, as well as disclose any serious convictions in the past 20 years. They must state the reason for their travel and where they will be staying, as well as the Schengen Area country they will first be visiting. The fee is payable for all applicants aged between 18 and 70. Those under 18 or over 70 will still need to apply for the document, but won't be charged. ADVERTISEMENT 'With two further changes planned, the situation may not seem simple,' adds Buck. 'As the changes affecting UK travellers start to come in towards the end of the year, ABTA and our members will be on hand to support travellers.'
Yahoo
03-04-2025
- Yahoo
ETIAS scams: Everything Brits need to know about EU travel as ETA launch causes confusion
Brits planning travel to Europe are being warned by an industry body not to fall for scams amid confusion over entry and exit rules. With the UK's Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) coming into force this week, scammers are busy taking advantage of the uncertainty. The Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA) has warned of fake websites offering a similar pass to British travellers heading into mainland Europe. From 2 April, Europeans who don't have a British passport are required to obtain an ETA to visit the UK. The Electronic Travel Information and Authorisation System (ETIAS) is a similar system that will affect UK travellers heading to Europe. However, ETIAS is not due to launch for another 18 months, and there is presently no requirement for Brits to obtain any additional documentation to travel. The UK's ETA came into force for Europeans on 2 April, and means any EU passport holders will need to apply for and secure an ETA before visiting the UK. The scheme has been live for visitors from non-European visa-free nationalities since January. However, its rollout has come with plenty of hiccups and confusion. Related UK plans price hike for ETA travel permit just days after launch: What it costs and how to apply UK ETA travel permit: British dual nationals flag issues with application system 'If you have friends, family, or business associates visiting from abroad, they'll need to check if they need to get an ETA,' says ABTA. 'This is one of three changes coming up for travelling across borders between the EU and UK, but the only one to have gone live, meaning there is scope for confusion.' There is an equivalent rule coming in for Brits traveling to Europe - the ETIAS. However, the ETIAS won't be introduced until the new EU Entry/Exit system (EES) goes live. The EES has been pushed back several times already, but is presently anticipated to launch in October 2025. It will be rolled out in stages, so not all changes will take effect immediately. The ETIAS is expected to be introduced in 2026, and ABTA says likely not before the end of 2026. Even then, ETIAS is expected to be optional for at least six months. Right now, there is no additional documentation required for Brits to holiday in Europe. 'With three new changes coming in over the next couple of years, we're keen that people understand what it means for them,' says Graeme Buck, director of communications at ABTA. 'In short, the only thing to act on now is for European visitors to the UK to apply for an ETA. Nothing will be changing for UK travellers going to Europe this summer.' Related ETIAS: The new visa waiver Brits need to enter the EU in 2025, what it costs and who gets it free EES to launch in October 2025. How will the border check system affect crossing times? ETIAS will be similar to the US ESTA scheme, where a simple online application grants permission to travel within the relevant area for a period of time. For the EU scheme, the cost of an ETIAS is expected to be around €7 and will be valid for up to three years (or until the passport reaches three months to expiry). It will allow British visitors to stay in any EU country (or countries) for up to 90 days in any 180 day period. According to the EU, third-country nationals, including the UK, will be granted a 'grace period' of six months on a one-time basis if they forget their ETIAS. 'Those coming to Europe for the first time since the end of the transitional period will be allowed to enter without an ETIAS provided they fulfil all remaining entry conditions,' the EU says. ABTA warns that "people who try to apply for an ETIAS now may be at risk of fraud, with a loss of money and possibly personal data too." When the time does come, the only place to apply for an ETIAS will be on the official website. Any apps, websites, or social media posts suggesting there is an alternative route are impostors. Travellers will need to submit personal information and passport data, as well as disclose any serious convictions in the past 20 years. They must state the reason for their travel and where they will be staying, as well as the Schengen Area country they will first be visiting. The fee is payable for all applicants aged between 18 and 70. Those under 18 or over 70 will still need to apply for the document, but won't be charged. 'With two further changes planned, the situation may not seem simple,' adds Buck. 'As the changes affecting UK travellers start to come in towards the end of the year, ABTA and our members will be on hand to support travellers.'