From the mountains to the Med: a self-guided walk in Provence, France
Behind Cassis beach, the castle-topped cliffs glint red-gold in the late afternoon sun. Couples stroll on the sand, kids play on the carousel, pastel-coloured buildings reflect in the still waters of the old harbour. In the main square, lined by plane trees, a group of elderly men concentrate on a game of petanque. It's a charming slice of Provençal life, a world away from the Cote D'Azur's more glitzy hotspots. In summer, tourists flock to the narrow streets and pretty coast, but off season the buzz is gentler, with weekenders feasting on bouillabaisse along the water's edge.
I grab a seat at a bar overlooking the Med and check out my walking route for the next day. Cassis is in the heart of the Calanques national park – an extraordinary place of steep fjord-like limestone inlets, deep green pines and turquoise sea – perfect for exploring on foot. It's a fitting finale to a solo self-guided hiking trip with Macs Adventure, which has taken me from the Sainte-Baume mountains down to the Riviera over six days. While my hiking legs have been put to the test with up to six hours of walking each day, I've not had to worry about logistics. The routes are plotted on the app and my luggage is transferred ahead, leaving me to simply enjoy the scenery.
Solo travel is on the rise, according to the Association of British Travel Agents and tour operators (17% of Macs Adventure trips were booked by single travellers last year – most of them women). Offering the freedom to go at my own pace without having to interact with a group, but with help on hand if needed, this trip promised a winning mix of adventure and comfort; an ideal way to explore less-trodden Provence alone.
My adventure begins with a night in the village of Pont-de-l'Étoile, 30 minutes east of Marseille by taxi, before I set out on my first hike: 10 miles (16km) to Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume. Tarmac soon gives way to stony paths as I leave urban streets behind and climb towards the ridge above Vallon St-Clair through a landscape of craggy limestone valleys, softened by shrubs such as cistus and broom and pockets of pine and oak woodland. Close to the ancient chapel of St-Clair, a mountain biker whizzes past but then silence descends again and there's just me and sweeping views all the way back to Marseille.
In summer, there is an acute risk of wildfires in this part of France, and water cisterns dot the route (it's advisable to do this hike in spring or autumn). I climb what looks like a giant wooden chair (a lookout tower perhaps?) to picnic under the bluest skies, then continue upwards along narrow tracks towards Col de Bertagne. There's no one around. I'm nailing it as a solo hiker, I think.
But my smugness morphs into contained panic when my phone battery dies and I realise I've left my paper map and power bank behind. There is no one around. I take a punt and scramble down the hillside, battling through dense forest until I find a path which eventually leads to a road. More through luck than judgement, I find myself in Plan-d'Aups and the welcome sight of the Hôtel Lou Pèbre d'Aï – my home for the next two nights – just two hours later than planned. I'm delighted to find my room has a bath and sleep deeply that night.
'Walkers love it here,' the receptionist tells me as I prepare to head off the next day, 'the mountains are sacred – you'll see.' Indeed, the Massif Sainte-Baume draws pilgrims to its hidden chapels and holy sites. Today's circular walk is nine miles; I climb steep paths through woods to a ridge which I follow for a couple of hours, with 360-degree views across countryside and coast. The route takes me past shrines, hermit caves and the Sanctuary of Mary Magdalene (she's said to have lived a life of penance here for many years) before a shady forested descent.
That night I dine on endives with walnuts and goat's cheese and monkfish in a Provençal sauce – the hotel is known for its cuisine prepared by chef Jérôme. On a table nearby, an elderly man gets out an A4-size image of a gilded saintly figure and props it up next to him while he eats, like a friend joining him for dinner. I think it's Mary Magdalene.
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The delightful town of Gémenos is 20 minutes by road from Plan-d'Aups, but the route I follow the next day takes five hours – and is perhaps my favourite walk yet. It feels wild and remote, with paths zigzagging next to deep gorges. I pass the ruins of a Cistercian abbey and follow a river into pretty parkland. From here it's two short bus rides down to Cassis, and flashes of ocean appear between the trees. Three nights at the Hotel Royal Cottage and a new landscape await.
On a stretch of coast known more for the glamour of Saint-Tropez, Cannes and Nice, it's refreshing to discover La Ciotat – an unpretentious former shipbuilding town a 15-minute taxi ride east of Cassis. I wander suburban streets then climb to the top of the Soubeyran cliffs – the highest sea cliffs in France at Cap Canaille. Lingering morning mist clears to reveal the spectacular indented coastline as I follow the winding Route des Crêtes back.
My last day is saved for the Calanques to the west of Cassis. The wind is up and rain is threatened but I head out past the sprawling villas on the outskirts of town and soon reach the Calanque de Port-Miou, boats bobbing on agitated water. In high summer, visitor numbers to the park are restricted to protect the delicate environment. Today I'm almost alone as I scramble up and down, descending to the white beach of Port-Pin, climbing above Calanque d'en-Vau, then descending again through a rocky ravine to the water. Its beauty feels even more raw under the darkening sky and distant roll of thunder.
The heavens open as I begin the return journey and I arrive back in Cassis completely drenched. Heavy rain turns roads into rivers, flowing down towards the sea. I take refuge at Le Bonaparte, a family-run bistro in one of the backstreets. Dressed head-to-toe in black, complete with beret, owner Jean Marie tells me he's run the place for 37 years – 'and people still come back for more!' I'm not surprised, I tell him, when I taste the moules gratinées and deliciously fresh sea bass – accompanied by a glass of the local white wine de Cassis. It's an authentic taste of Provence – and, I feel, an appropriate way to toast an epic solo adventure through a special and varied part of France.The trip was provided by Macs Adventure. Seven-day self-guided Provence Mountains to the Mediterranean itinerary from £1,125pp, including hotel accommodation, breakfast, two dinners, transfers, luggage transfers, route notes, GPS navigation and 24/7 support
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The Guardian
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From the mountains to the Med: a self-guided walk in Provence, France
Behind Cassis beach, the castle-topped cliffs glint red-gold in the late afternoon sun. Couples stroll on the sand, kids play on the carousel, pastel-coloured buildings reflect in the still waters of the old harbour. In the main square, lined by plane trees, a group of elderly men concentrate on a game of petanque. It's a charming slice of Provençal life, a world away from the Cote D'Azur's more glitzy hotspots. In summer, tourists flock to the narrow streets and pretty coast, but off season the buzz is gentler, with weekenders feasting on bouillabaisse along the water's edge. I grab a seat at a bar overlooking the Med and check out my walking route for the next day. Cassis is in the heart of the Calanques national park – an extraordinary place of steep fjord-like limestone inlets, deep green pines and turquoise sea – perfect for exploring on foot. It's a fitting finale to a solo self-guided hiking trip with Macs Adventure, which has taken me from the Sainte-Baume mountains down to the Riviera over six days. While my hiking legs have been put to the test with up to six hours of walking each day, I've not had to worry about logistics. The routes are plotted on the app and my luggage is transferred ahead, leaving me to simply enjoy the scenery. Solo travel is on the rise, according to the Association of British Travel Agents and tour operators (17% of Macs Adventure trips were booked by single travellers last year – most of them women). Offering the freedom to go at my own pace without having to interact with a group, but with help on hand if needed, this trip promised a winning mix of adventure and comfort; an ideal way to explore less-trodden Provence alone. My adventure begins with a night in the village of Pont-de-l'Étoile, 30 minutes east of Marseille by taxi, before I set out on my first hike: 10 miles (16km) to Plan-d'Aups-Sainte-Baume. Tarmac soon gives way to stony paths as I leave urban streets behind and climb towards the ridge above Vallon St-Clair through a landscape of craggy limestone valleys, softened by shrubs such as cistus and broom and pockets of pine and oak woodland. Close to the ancient chapel of St-Clair, a mountain biker whizzes past but then silence descends again and there's just me and sweeping views all the way back to Marseille. In summer, there is an acute risk of wildfires in this part of France, and water cisterns dot the route (it's advisable to do this hike in spring or autumn). I climb what looks like a giant wooden chair (a lookout tower perhaps?) to picnic under the bluest skies, then continue upwards along narrow tracks towards Col de Bertagne. There's no one around. I'm nailing it as a solo hiker, I think. But my smugness morphs into contained panic when my phone battery dies and I realise I've left my paper map and power bank behind. There is no one around. I take a punt and scramble down the hillside, battling through dense forest until I find a path which eventually leads to a road. More through luck than judgement, I find myself in Plan-d'Aups and the welcome sight of the Hôtel Lou Pèbre d'Aï – my home for the next two nights – just two hours later than planned. I'm delighted to find my room has a bath and sleep deeply that night. 'Walkers love it here,' the receptionist tells me as I prepare to head off the next day, 'the mountains are sacred – you'll see.' Indeed, the Massif Sainte-Baume draws pilgrims to its hidden chapels and holy sites. Today's circular walk is nine miles; I climb steep paths through woods to a ridge which I follow for a couple of hours, with 360-degree views across countryside and coast. The route takes me past shrines, hermit caves and the Sanctuary of Mary Magdalene (she's said to have lived a life of penance here for many years) before a shady forested descent. That night I dine on endives with walnuts and goat's cheese and monkfish in a Provençal sauce – the hotel is known for its cuisine prepared by chef Jérôme. On a table nearby, an elderly man gets out an A4-size image of a gilded saintly figure and props it up next to him while he eats, like a friend joining him for dinner. I think it's Mary Magdalene. Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion The delightful town of Gémenos is 20 minutes by road from Plan-d'Aups, but the route I follow the next day takes five hours – and is perhaps my favourite walk yet. It feels wild and remote, with paths zigzagging next to deep gorges. I pass the ruins of a Cistercian abbey and follow a river into pretty parkland. From here it's two short bus rides down to Cassis, and flashes of ocean appear between the trees. Three nights at the Hotel Royal Cottage and a new landscape await. On a stretch of coast known more for the glamour of Saint-Tropez, Cannes and Nice, it's refreshing to discover La Ciotat – an unpretentious former shipbuilding town a 15-minute taxi ride east of Cassis. I wander suburban streets then climb to the top of the Soubeyran cliffs – the highest sea cliffs in France at Cap Canaille. Lingering morning mist clears to reveal the spectacular indented coastline as I follow the winding Route des Crêtes back. My last day is saved for the Calanques to the west of Cassis. The wind is up and rain is threatened but I head out past the sprawling villas on the outskirts of town and soon reach the Calanque de Port-Miou, boats bobbing on agitated water. In high summer, visitor numbers to the park are restricted to protect the delicate environment. Today I'm almost alone as I scramble up and down, descending to the white beach of Port-Pin, climbing above Calanque d'en-Vau, then descending again through a rocky ravine to the water. Its beauty feels even more raw under the darkening sky and distant roll of thunder. The heavens open as I begin the return journey and I arrive back in Cassis completely drenched. Heavy rain turns roads into rivers, flowing down towards the sea. I take refuge at Le Bonaparte, a family-run bistro in one of the backstreets. Dressed head-to-toe in black, complete with beret, owner Jean Marie tells me he's run the place for 37 years – 'and people still come back for more!' I'm not surprised, I tell him, when I taste the moules gratinées and deliciously fresh sea bass – accompanied by a glass of the local white wine de Cassis. It's an authentic taste of Provence – and, I feel, an appropriate way to toast an epic solo adventure through a special and varied part of trip was provided by Macs Adventure. Seven-day self-guided Provence Mountains to the Mediterranean itinerary from £1,125pp, including hotel accommodation, breakfast, two dinners, transfers, luggage transfers, route notes, GPS navigation and 24/7 support
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Imagine the scene – you're on holiday in the south of France sipping a delicious pale pink rosé. It cost just five euros a bottle but it's undoubtedly the best Provençal blush you've ever tried. You simply must take some home with you. But for as long as CT scanners remain on hold at many UK airports, you have no choice but to risk packing it in your checked luggage, praying the baggage handlers are feeling kind that day. Just how do you keep your precious finds pristine? Options range from the homespun wrap-it-in-a-towel method and cheap inflatable or cardboard sleeves to speciality hard-shell suitcases, which come with a hefty price tag. And of course many airlines charge you to bring back hold luggage, so start by asking yourself if you really will be sipping that fruity cinsault quite so enthusiastically on your return. 'Bringing wine home from holiday is a funny thing. 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I tested two of the options recommended by Cooper, as well as my own home-made methods, packing two to five bottles in a hand luggage-sized suitcase. As well as trialling these on recent trips, I tried running down the street in the manner of someone late for their flight, and chucking the case about a bit, in the style of an airport baggage handler at the end of a bank holiday weekend. While none of the methods resulted in broken bottles, some felt safer than others, offered more space for clothes and, in some instances, offered a dual use. Ease of use: Easy Although the bottle I brought home didn't break, I was worried about it the entire flight. And because I needed to roll the bottle in many layers of jumpers and towels to provide enough protection, I had to sacrifice space in my case. Ease of use: Easy Ease of use: Easy I recommend these freezable sleeves to any wine-loving friend for keeping bottles chilled on days out. Using them in my case was an inspired idea and they worked a treat although the fairly major downside is that the neck of the bottle is left exposed. I had to use extra padding with clothing for it to feel truly unbreakable. Ease of use: Medium Of the 10 sleeves I tried to inflate, only one pumped up to the full, meaning there were parts of the bottle left unprotected. If I'd had access to something better than the flimsy pump that came with the pack, I would say that these are an excellent option. They do, however, take up a lot of case space and don't feel particularly kind to the planet. Ease of use: Easy Despite the patented 'technology' being no more than deep foam inserts, I was pleasantly surprised with the VinGarde's ability to securely hold up to five bottles, leaving space for clothes, shoes and other essentials. You can also buy add-ins for differently sized bottles or glassware and there are eight- and 12-bottle versions too. After throwing it around a fair bit, the hard shell and secure straps showed their mettle, and I certainly wouldn't feel concerned about my precious cargo if I was travelling with this case. You can remove the inserts and use the case as a carry-on without wine. The single markdown is for the price, which feels extreme for the average holidaymaker. Photos by Paul Grover Six urban wineries to visit You don't have to hire a car to fit in some wine tasting. Plenty of estates are within easy reach of a city, if not in the heart of one. 1. Bordeaux Bordeaux boasts working wineries within its city limits. Château Dillon is on the city's tram network and is one of the first chateaux of the Médoc wine route. 2. Porto Port lovers have the pick of some really great wineries in Vila Nova de Gaia, a short hop across the Douro from the city of Porto, where the fortified wines are aged in waterfront port lodges for optimum humidity. Try Cockburn's, Taylor's or small-scale producer Poças. 3. Vienna Like Bordeaux, Vienna is home to many vineyards within the city limits and its Heurigen (wine taverns) are as famous as the Viennese waltz. The Ottakringer hills are home to many small family-run vineyards and you can combine a day's tasting with a hike, just 20 minutes by public transport from central Vienna. 4. Barcelona The Can Calopa farmhouse is located in the hills to the west of Barcelona. Here you can tour the vines and taste the property's organic red and white wines and olive oil. 5. Cape Town The Constantia Valley is located just 20 minutes from central Cape Town and is home to some of the region's oldest vines, some dating back more than 300 years. Groot Constantia and Klein Constantia are two of the most prestigious properties. Read more about Cape Town wineries here. 6. Venice
