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The Hindu
28-05-2025
- The Hindu
Author Prajwal Parajuly on why chutney, not idli, is his go-to dish
To survive the many splendours of Sri City, where I live part of the year, one must get away every so often. Weekending in Chennai is the easiest option. For several of my colleagues, Chennai means concerts. For others, it means stocking up on miso and pesto. For yet others, it means brunch at Pumpkin Tales and cocktails at MadCo. What would Chennai mean to me? I had enjoyed the whimsy of Tulika Books and the gastronomic wonder that was Avartana. I had jumped rope at the Madras Club and had twice eaten the cloud pudding at Kappa Chakka Kandhari. I had also had a bit of a spiritual awakening watching a rooster sashay down a ramp at the Kapaleeshwarar temple. All delightful experiences, no doubt, but mere footnotes to the one thing that would bring me back to Chennai again and again: the humble idli chutney. The array of chutneys at Murugan Idli, to be specific. I didn't know what a preoccupation these chutneys would become when I first made my way to the GN Road outlet at T Nagar. An innocuous idli was plonked on my banana leaf, on top which the waiter ladled out a generous portion of sambhar. There they were in white, green, and two varieties of orange — a quartet of chutneys so flavourful that the idli seemed like an afterthought. There was just the right hint of piquancy, and what was that I tasted? It was sesame, its lavish use genius. I went to Murugan again for dinner and returned for lunch the next day. It is now almost always my first stop when I get into Chennai. What is it about Murugan? It is unassuming. But that can be said for any number of Chennai eateries. The service is indifferent on a good day and infuriating on most days. No one will go to any of the outlets for the ambience either. If I am not going for the vibes or the service, why would I submit myself to a meal — sometimes two meals — a day? It's because I am a chutney addict through and through. Nothing else matters — not the crisp rava dosa nor the sambhar. Neither the fluffy idli nor the inoffensive uttapam. I eat the chutneys — dollops and dollops of them — like they are the main course and the idli, the accompaniment. How I love making snaky rivulets on the banana leaf with my fingers, mixing and matching one, two, three or four chutneys with a smidgen of idli, and guiding the concoction to my mouth as it drips down my elbow, yellowing my shirt, and filling my gluttonous heart with unbridled joy. I'd soon realise that few topics polarise Chennai more than Murugan Idli. For each foodie who unequivocally declares the restaurant as her favourite, there's the one who froths at his mouth recounting its circumspect hygiene. 'Went … a month ago, and it was ghastly,' pronounces my editor, not one to mince words. There are those for whom the lack of consistency jars. 'I'll only go to the one across from the Armenian church,' my colleague Kaveri once declared. My sister points out that in a city brimming with excellent food, Murugan is middling, but she also forks and knifes her dosa, so her opinion doesn't count. Eating Circles any day, some say. There are then the Sangeetha militants. No self-respecting Sangeetha loyalist will out himself as a Murugan fan. Sure, not every Murugan is created equal. I'll set foot in the Besant Nagar location only for takeaway chutneys and nothing else. Not one dosa I have eaten there has come out warm. Plus, in a neighborhood with Native Tiffins and Vishranti — the idli at the former is so well fermented that it renders the chutney useless — a lack-lustre Murugan is just wrath-inducing. I've given the outlet three (three!) chances, and I fully sympathise with those who are unconvinced of Murugan's greatness because it's the one location that can't get anything right. That doesn't mean I will not judge these Murugan haters for dismissing my beloved chain altogether. I shall judge them almost as severely as I do those food writers who describe the idli as a rice cake, the dosa as a crepe and — the biggest horror — the chutney as a kind of pickle. Friends joke that I am responsible for quadrupling Murugan's profits. But they are wrong. Idli is cheap food. I feel awful that the fourth, fifth and sixth free chutney helpings likely cost more than the 23 rupees per idli that I am charged. To circumvent this guilt, I invariably order a rava masala onion dosa, eating which requires … another few ladles of chutney. I return to Sri City with more chutney than blood in my veins. Prajwal Parajuly is the author of The Gurkha's Daughter and Land Where I Flee. He loves idli, loathes naan, and is indifferent to coffee. He teaches Creative Writing at Krea University and oscillates between New York City and Sri City.
The Hindu
21-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Hindu
Author Prajwal Parajuly discovers the organised charm of Sri City
Novelist Prayaag Akbar had promised that the students were smart. That was reason enough for me to move to Sri City, in the middle of nowhere, sight unseen. Friends and family had reason to be skeptical. For a few years I had been flitting between New York and Paris, convincing everyone that I was leading a rockstar's life. Why then would I abandon that for a city in Andhra Pradesh that no one had heard of? Alas, the rockstar existence I aspired to actually felt like I spent half my life at airports and the other half on planes. Do that in your twenties — it's sexy. You're still doing that once you step into your forties — it's a bit sad. Besides, what was not to like about building from scratch a Creative Writing programme at a new university that was making news for all the right reasons? Yes, I could design my own curriculum. Yes, the faculty-student ratio was excellent. Yes, New York could continue being part of my life. No, Sri City wasn't really a city in the British sense of the word. I had been to Chennai once before and looked forward to rating the best idli and chutney. I'd judge every fault at Avartana and Southern Spice and Pumpkin Tales and Kappa Chakka Kandhari. I'd visit the temples of Mahabalipuram and the beaches of Kovalam. I'd weekend in Pondicherry like the perfectly pretentious snob that I was. On the way back, I'd stop at The Farm. But Sri City? What of Sri City? The information online was scant. Yes, it was what they called a special economic zone, poetically abbreviated to SEZ. And yes, there was a supermarket. Yes, Krea University, where I'd teach, was the city's pride and joy. And yes, Krea's main building was ugly while the newer buildings were pretty. Was that a smirk on my driver's face when I asked him to tell me something about the city? 'So, lots of factories?' I asked the driver. He smirked. 'Have you been to Krea before?' I asked. 'Many times.' He continued to smirk. 'And?' Smirk. Someone would get tipped zero rupees. 'We are almost there,' he said. Outside, the landscape changed. We were fast leaving the chaos and colour of average Indian streets. The roads became wider and smoother. The dividers were more ornamental. They sported flowers. On either side of the tree-lined avenues were tall walls housing well-known brands: Mondelez, Pepsico, Sodexo. This felt strangely familiar. And why was that? I could have been in … Texas. Sure, few things in life were more mind-numbing than American suburbia — I'd sooner live in war-torn Mogadishu than on the outskirts of Philly — but here I was, suddenly excited by the similarity. Finding this level of organisation and cleanliness — what I'd have otherwise dismissed as abject soullessness — anywhere in India felt incongruous. Travel just outside the economic zone, and there they all were: the potholes, the frenzy, the roads snapped in two. But Sri City? Oh, Sri City was Oklahoma in Andhra. So that was how it would be. I'd be living in a bizarre little American sliver of India. I made my way to the university accommodation. It had 'Exotica' in its name. I'd be on the top floor. Of course I'd tell everyone I lived in the penthouse. Outside, a canoodling couple plucked lice off each other — they would be an integral part of my Sri City vista — oblivious to the game of cricket factory workers played on a makeshift pitch. The glaze-tile-floored flat had toilets that didn't have showers in the middle of the room. That was a win. But the two bathrooms were divided by a wall that stopped three-quarters of the way up. You could throw toilet paper across the wall from one bathroom to another. 'You like?' the driver asked when he saw me consider the partition. I ignored him. My colleague Anannya would take me out for lunch. 'Japanese?' she asked. Here? A jittery bus disgorged a gaggle of daily-wage earners next door. I was whisked off to Asagao, which served Japanese and Italian cuisine, and not to Tokyo Ryokan, which served Japanese and Indian. Like I wasn't confronted by an embarrassment of riches already, a third Japanese restaurant named Senri even bragged views. The Sri City expats — many of them Japanese and Korean — working at the various international companies needed their karaage fix. My ramen bowl could have been from any Japanese restaurant in New York or Singapore. 'That was a great meal,' I started to text Anannya on the drive back to Chennai. I'd have to do a social-media post about this strange cosmopolitan experience. 'Best ramen I ate in India,' I'd brag. The driver swerved. A pair of snakes slithered to safety. Prajwal Parajuly is the author of The Gurkha's Daughter and Land Where I loves idli, loathes naan, and is indifferent to coffee. He teaches creative writing at Krea University and oscillates between New York City and Sri City.
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Business Standard
15-05-2025
- Business
- Business Standard
ITC Hotels net profit rises 41% to ₹257 cr in first quarter after demerger
ITC Hotels reported a record 40.8 per cent rise in consolidated net profit to ₹257 crore in the fourth quarter of financial year 2025—its first quarter post demerger from consumer goods major ITC Limited. The company had posted a net profit of ₹182.5 crore in the same period last year. Its revenue from operations rose 17 per cent to ₹1,060.6 crore from ₹907.3 crore a year ago. Profit before interest, depreciation and tax (PBIDT) rose 12.1 per cent year-on-year to ₹365 crore from ₹325.7 crore. For the full year, the company reported a net profit of ₹634.5 crore and revenue from operations of ₹3,559.8 crore. Room revenues continued their strong growth trajectory, driven by broad-based performance across segments such as retail, contracted bookings, weddings and airline crew. 'The average daily rate (ADR) at approximately ₹12,500 and occupancy at 73 per cent saw robust year-on-year growth, supported by sustained demand across key markets and smart revenue management,' the company stated in a release. For the quarter, room revenues increased 16 per cent, buoyed by strong ADRs at approximately ₹15,000 (a 14 per cent increase) and high occupancy levels at 79 per cent. Revenue per available room (RevPAR) grew by 17 per cent. A significant portion of recent room additions came through management and franchising contracts. 'The strategy envisages driving growth while reducing capital intensity of operations by focusing on strong partnerships with asset owners, leveraging brand credentials, and providing operational expertise,' the release said. The company also expanded its footprint in tier-2 and tier-3 cities, where demand for premium hospitality is rapidly growing. Additionally, the company's food and beverage segment—comprising brands such as Dum Pukht, Bukhara and Avartana—recorded 'robust double-digit year-on-year growth' during the quarter. Aggregate room demand in India is expected to outpace supply. To address this, the company has a pipeline of 50 hotels with over 4,500 keys, including a high proportion of brownfield assets. It aims to reach a portfolio of 220 operational hotels with more than 20,000 keys by 2030. The owned/managed keys mix is expected to shift from the current 42:58 ratio to 30:70, with management fees projected to grow 2.5 times over the same period. In the past 24 months, the company has signed 54 properties and opened 30 hotels across brands. ITC Hotels is also investing in scaling up its portfolio of owned properties. 'Construction of a greenfield project at Puri and a new block at the existing Welcomhotel in Bhubaneswar are underway. A new 200-key hotel is also planned in Vizag with an investment of ₹328 crore. The construction of the hotel is expected to be completed by 2029,' the company stated.
Mint
25-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
You are in for a sweet surprise with new-age dessert menus at restaurants
A hush comes over the table when it arrives. Eleven layers of chocolate cake, whipped chocolate ganache, a hint of a few spices and loads of comfort. The Great Wall of Anjuna, a decadent and deeply oomph-y chocolate cake, is not what I was expecting at Jolene, one of Goa's hottest new sunset spots, that boasts of great sea views and dangerously addictive picante cocktails. Later that week, while dining at Hosa, an elegant south Indian dining spot in Goa by the folks behind Indian Accent, I'm blown away by the coconut and curry leaf ice cream and wonderfully nostalgic Iyengar Honey Cake that's served with whipped coconut cream, jam glaze and honey. Sampling these delights got me thinking of other places where I've tucked into memorable desserts, and how restaurants across India seem to be upping the game when it comes to after-meal treats that satisfy all our cravings. Blending nostalgia, avant garde and everything in between, these offerings are a far cry from the same-ol' same-ol' menu combinations of flourless chocolate fondants and blueberry cheesecakes. Much innovation in India's sweet treats scene is owed to standalone patisseries such as Mumbai's Le 15 Patisserie, National Capital Region's Miam, Mysuru's Sapa Bakery, ice-cream stores like Goa's Cream Choc Gelato, Bengaluru's Lavonne Cafe and its newest baby LICK, Lavonne Ice Cream Kitchen, arguably the country's coolest ice-cream parlour that serves up scoopfuls of gourmet ice cream. But over the past three years or so, dessert menus at restaurants have begun to develop a personality of their own, while carrying on the philosophy of the establishment. In no particular order, here's a list of some of India's most exciting desserts across restaurants. Toast Pasta Bar, Mumbai : This charming little Italian restaurant by chef Devika Manjrekar doesn't get the attention it deserves. While the crispy coccoli with generous shavings of Parma ham and dollops of stracciatella and fluffy pizzette may distract you, Manjrekar's comforting bowl of fluffy tiramisu is a sleeper hit. Crafted using homemade savoiardi biscuits, rum, espresso, and creamy mascarpone, Toast's tiramisu is one of those #iykyk goodies. Avartana, Chennai, Kolkata & Mumbai: This fine dining restaurant is the jewel in ITC's dining crown. Recently awarded the No.1 restaurant in the country at the Condé Nast Traveller India's Top Restaurant Awards, Avartana is perhaps best known for its widely documented triple-distilled rasam that is served in a French press. While the food itself is exciting, the dessert courses play out in interesting ways, with creations such as the too-pretty-to eat fennel panna cotta with angel hair caramel and raw mango pudding that's made better with the addition of an edible ghee candle at its centre and charred papad for crunch. Izumi, Mumbai & Goa: Dessert is the last thing you're thinking of when dining at this ramen hot spot. Chef Nooresha Kably updated the menu some months ago and while the additions from the hot kitchen are expectedly superb, the dessert menu, with lesser known items like taiyaki, a traditional Japanese fish-shaped cookie that Kably stuffs with creamy banana custard and serves with matcha cream, deserves your gluttony. Mumbai-specific specials include the Monaka, a wafer biscuit filled with rich coffee ice cream and an unexpected touch of azuki beans, creating a unique blend of textures and flavours. Also don't miss the Orange & Berry Parfait. With orange blossom cream, raspberry jelly, mixed berry compote, raspberry jelly, crumble, seasonal fresh fruit and cheese ice cream, it's an elegant way to end a meal. Banng, Gurugram: The Thai restaurant burst on the scene early this year and while India doesn't know much of the cuisine's desserts beyond mango sticky rice, Banng is hoping to correct that. Perfect for the summer is the Lod Chod Bingsu, a fairytale of a dessert starring milk snow topped with whipped coconut cream, pandan noodles and sweet coconut sauce. A gorgeous fusion of textures that cools and delights. Burma Burma outlets across India: At this award-winning Burmese restaurant, diners can choose from a selection of Burmese and international desserts. My personal favourites include the take on the street-side Burmese falooda that combines noodles, sweet bread, sago, sticky rice, and chilled coconut milk. Pair this with Rangoon Baked Milk, which features luxurious house-baked milk served with vanilla-whipped ganache, raspberry gel, fried brioche and almond nougatine, or simply go home with a tub of their artisanal ice cream, with flavours that range from Pineapple Energee to Durian Fruit flavours. LUPA, Bengaluru: Chef Manu Chandra's establishment pulls out the stops when it comes to dessert. There's a giant bowl of airy tiramisu that's served with equal amounts of charm and sass, tableside by the chef himself; and a dark chocolate and burnt orange mousse that is a delightful blend of pistachio gelato, malted barley cream, sponge cake and chocolate crumble. The Table, Mumbai: Under chef Will Aghajanian, the kitchen here has made some bold moves. After years of colouring within the lines, The Table's new menu is an exciting one of creative backflips. While there, spoon the exquisite Jersey Crème Caramel delicately infused with Montenegro, and savour the Chocolate Sabayon Tart featuring a luscious sabayon topped with Chantilly cream and Kerala vanilla glacé. For chocolate enthusiasts, the Chocolate Budino combines espresso gelée, hazelnut praline, making it a triumvirate of dessert delights. Some may call this sweet uprising an extension of 'Little Treat Culture", the trend of treating oneself to many small pleasures as a form of self-care in order to deal with the pressures of daily life. As more people look for little ways to soothe and indulge themselves, chefs and restaurateurs are responding by doubling down on sections of the menus that truly bring us joy. The next time you dine out, you may discover that the real highlight of a meal might lie in that final, delectable course. Word of Mouth is a monthly column on dining out and dining well. Smitha Menon is a food journalist and the host of the Big Food Energy podcast. She posts @ on Instagram.
