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NZ Herald
7 days ago
- Entertainment
- NZ Herald
Jesse Mulligan Auckland Restaurant Review: Returning To The Grill SkyCity A Year After A ‘Terrible' Meal
Spoiler alert: If you've been waiting for a sign to visit, Jesse Mulligan is waving you in with bright green flags. It's been almost a year since I took a deep breath and wrote about my terrible meal at SkyCity's The Grill. Publishing a critical restaurant review is an exhilarating experience. Four times as many people as usual read that column and strangers were literally asking about it on the street. The food and beverage manager from SkyCity called me at home for a chat. The person at the Herald whose job it is to sell Viva subscriptions let me know that I should feel free to seek out other terrible restaurants to write about, and soon. The SkyCity guy promised on the phone that they had fixed everything and offered to have me back for free. But it had only been a couple of days since the review had come out – how could they possibly have solved the many, many problems I had listed? What did they do, fire everyone and ship all the boring crockery to landfill? I decided to wait a full 12 months before returning, and this week I did it. I always pay for review meals with my own money and never announce that I am coming, so let's call this a 'check-in'. Below, I have listed my major complaints about The Grill in 2024 and whether or not they have been fixed: The taramasalata and tuna tartlette snacks on the menu at The Grill restaurant in the Horizon Hotel. Photo / Babiche Martens Problem: Service was extremely slow Unsurprisingly, this was not a problem on my return visit, though – full respect to the PR team – the waitress looking after us had not been briefed that I was potentially there to save the restaurant's reputation. I know this because at one stage she looked at me quizzically and asked, 'Where have I seen you before?' before she realised that I was the VIP someone had mentioned to her earlier. She had already proved herself by then – she was fast, knowledgeable, quirky and personal. I bet she gets loads of tips because she has done that rare thing – found a public-facing version of herself that preserves all the best, quirky parts of her personality without sacrificing professionalism. Did they fix it? Yes, they did. Problem: The souffle was terrible and had no puff A twice-baked souffle is a classic dish, so I talked to a couple of chef friends and showed them photos before declaring this one dead last year. I didn't order it this time, but a guy at the table next to me did, and it looked fantastic! It had puff, it had height, and the guy (who was a fan of the old Grill and seemed to have very high standards) pronounced it delicious, mentioning in particular the sweet caramelised onions. Advertisement Advertise with NZME. Did they fix it? Yes, they did. The twice-baked cheese souffle now has puff and height. Photo / Babiche Martens Problem: The cocktails were watery, pretentious and pre-mixed The list is still a bit OTT, but I can see the appeal of cocktails with Māori names and local ingredients when you're trying to sell to tourists. The SkyCity guy had promised to sit me down and 'give a bit more context to our pre-mix offering', but I specifically (and slightly rudely) asked that nobody from the company attend our dinner, so I will instead take his word that it doesn't affect the quality of the drinks. But look, I didn't order a cocktail because none of them appealed. Did they fix it? Sorry, not sure. Problem: Nothing appealing on the menu The Grill has expanded its short and brutal list of dishes to a page-turning culinary adventure. Now it has (great) snacks and starters and a double-page spread of interesting beef choices, plus sashimi, oysters and another full page of mains. There's also a brilliant tarte tatin served with a simple scoop of vanilla ice cream for dessert, and a cheese and cognac trolley! They tried it out on New Year's Eve and it went so well they've kept it. I loved everything about that trolley except the prices – $18 per sliver of cheese, but perhaps by that time of night you'll no longer be counting. Did they fix it? Yes, they did. Problem: Everything came on the same boring white plates The plates are still boring, with the odd exception. This might be a future opportunity to lift the experience even further. For now, it's all about the food. Advertisement Advertise with NZME. Did they fix it? No, they didn't. You'll be able to make your carnivorous dreams come true here. Photo / Babiche Martens Problem: Some of the food didn't taste good Most excitingly, the food now tastes very, very good. The starters are exceptional, the oysters and sashimi are wonderful, and the steak? Well, spoiling this glowing review somewhat is that I ordered the three-part 'study of beef' and, while the sirloin and scotch were great, the wagyu rump cap was underdone and unable to be broken down by human teeth alone. What a shame. That cut will need further work, but I feel certain that you'll be able to make your carnivorous dreams come true here: pick anything else, alongside some sauces and sides and gobble it all down with a big glass of Cabernet. Did they fix it? Yes, they mostly did. Problem: The wine service was bad, with typos all through the menu The turnaround here was quite exceptional. The Grill's wine guy these days is fantastic – with a short, interesting, ad-libbed speech for every wine-based question we gave him. There's also now a Coravin menu offering wines by the glass that would be too expensive to open otherwise. We drank some beautiful wines and heard some beautiful stories. Look out for the Plume methode, which I have never found anywhere else, and I reckon is one of the best bubbles options in New Zealand. I can confirm I have audited the wine list and found no spelling mistakes. Did they fix it? Yes, they did. The final verdict Wow, what a turnaround. The staff have a spring in their step and the open kitchen seems to be buzzing. The customers are all happy too – from hotel guests to Auckland foodies, coalescing over precise cooking and great drinks. If you've been waiting for the all clear to visit The Grill, I'm officially waving you in with bright green flags. More restaurant reviews According to dining out editor Jesse Mulligan. Nomiya's Japanese Snack Bites Are Works Of Art. ... And Jesse reckons their oysters are the best you will find in Auckland. Palato In Browns Bay Has The Best Pasta Menu In The City. And their tomato pasta sauce is unrivalled in New Zealand. What Happens If You Ask AI To Create Your Restaurant's New Menu? Luke Dallow did just that for his new Ponsonby Rd bistro, Gigi. But does it work? Birkenhead's Bon Pinard Completes The Set With Duo & Uno. This North Shore wine bar serves up indulgence with a flavour-packed menu. Feeling Blue In Ponsonby. Jesse recommends you head to Blue immediately for the persimmon salad. Food You'll Rarely Come Across, With A Side Of ... Lamps? It was high risk, high reward at this unassuming Georgian-Turkish fusion restaurant.

1News
16-06-2025
- Entertainment
- 1News
Iconic Auckland Eats 2025: Top 100 dishes revealed
Foodies in Tāmaki Makaurau have had their say on the best dishes the city has to offer, with Auckland's top 100 dishes being revealed as part of the annual Iconic Eats awards. This year's list of the most delicious dishes have been compiled from a record-breaking 3109 nominations from the public – a 67% increase from 2024's list. Now in its fifth year, Iconic Auckland Eats – launched by Tātaki Auckland Unlimited – features everything from Cornish pasties and pepperoni pizzas to 'raw ramen' and pāua tortellini. Any kind of dish is able to be nominated by locals or visitors to Tāmaki Makaurau, who are encouraged to share a brief story about why they love the dish. 'Food fans active on social media love to share content about dishes they love and learn about new ones to try," said Tātaki Auckland Unlimited director destination, Annie Dundas. ADVERTISEMENT "We have very passionate people in all parts of Auckland who want to share food stories from their region. It's been really nice to see how that's evolved in the past five years and helped to boost the success of hospitality businesses." Dumplings in Spicy Sauce from Eden Noodles, a dish returning to this year's top 100 list. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Nominations are reviewed by a panel of judges who asses the dishes on a range of criteria; a dish that's well-loved, representative of local culture and people, a timeless classic, and/or a 'signature dish'. This year, 77 new dishes have made an appearance in the top 100, with 39 businesses making their debut on the list. Of the 23 dishes returning to 2025's list, only two have been on the list since its inception – lamingtons from Sugar at Chelsea Bay and Depot's fish sliders. Raspberry Lamingtons from Sugar at Chelsea Bay (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Karen Thompson-Smith, head of tourism at Tātaki Auckland Unlimited, said she is thrilled with the initiative's building momentum. ADVERTISEMENT 'Food and beverage services are a vital part of Auckland's vibrancy and are a major contributor to the region's visitor economy. We know that trying local cuisine is a must-do activity for most visitors coming to New Zealand,' she said. In the year to March 2025, food and beverage services accounted for 17.4% of domestic and international visitor spending in Auckland, according to Infometrics. The full list of 2025's top 100 dishes (in alphabetical order): Agak Agak Food's Malaysian Nasi Campur. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) *Dish previously included on an Iconic Auckland Eats Top 100 list ** Business new to the Iconic Auckland Eats Top 100 list Agak Agak Food** – Malaysian Nasi Campur ADVERTISEMENT Ahi – Tuna Hūhunu Ailimteh Nasi Lemak Bungkus** – Nasi Lemak Bungkus Alma – Beef Tongue, Preserved Lemon, Olive Amano – Chitarra scampi, tomato & chilli* Apéro – Seared Lamb Rump, Jus with Carrot Purée and Kasundi Aryeh** – Black & White Thoughts Ashby Pies** – Beef Cheek & Cheese Pie ADVERTISEMENT Azabu – Volcano Sushi Rolls* Bali Nights – Ikan Bakar Jimbaran* Bali Nights' Ikan Bakar Jimbaran. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Banh Mi Boy – Lemongrass Chicken Banh Mi Bar Magda – Noel's charcoal steak, soy butter, scallion Bari's Pizza** – Deluxe Pepperoni Pizza Beast & Butterflies** – Market Fish of the Day, scampi bisque, mussels, prawns, burnt tomatoes, fennel ADVERTISEMENT Bestie Cafe – Towpath Cheese Toastie BFC Korean Chicken** – Seasoned Cup Chicken Boda – Eggplant Bibimbap Bossi – Olive Fritte Bridgehouse Warkworth** – Fresh Steamed Mussels Broke Boy Taco – Birria Tacos Bunga Raya – X.O. CHICKEN ADVERTISEMENT Burnt Butter Diner – Chilli Fried Eggs Candela – Lamb belly pintxo with mojo verde Carmel Israeli Street Food – Crispy Falafel Pita* Casita Miro – Churros Con Chocolate Cassia – Pani Puri* Cheese On Toast – Bacon Jam Toastie* Cibo – West Coast whitebait omelette with ginger, soy & lime butter ADVERTISEMENT Cocoro – The Sashimi Platter* Cocoro's sashimi platter. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Depot – Fish Sliders* Duo – Raw Fish on Toast Eden Noodles – Dumplings In Spicy Sauce* Esther – Puff bread & taramasalata Esther's Puff bread & taramasalata. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) ADVERTISEMENT Farina – Padella Isabella Farm House Cafe – Pimp My Cheese Scone - Benedict Pimp Farm House Cafe's Pimp My Cheese Scone - Benedict Pimp. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Fatima's – Lamb Chawarma Federal Delicatessen – Chicken Salad Sandwich* First Mates, Last Laugh** – Pan-Fried John Dory FishSmith – Battered Westmere Butchery Pork Sausage ADVERTISEMENT Forest** – Smoked purple kumara, caper brine glaze, Marmite cream, rosemary greens, paprika Forester Bar & Grill** – Skin-on Snapper Fort Greene** – The Reuben Frat's Pizza** – Hawaiian Pizza Gemmayze Street – Babaganouj* Gerome – Rolled Baklava, Greek Nuts, Gooseberry Compote, Metaxa Syrup, Mascarpone Giapo – World Famous Hokey Pokey ADVERTISEMENT GOAT By Sid Chopra** – GOAT Champaran Hapunan – Adobo Del Diablo* Hello Beasty – Prawn + Crab Toast* Hill House Cafe – Pimp My Scone - The OG Pimp Huami – Fruit Wood Roasted Peking Duck* Huami's Fruit Wood Roasted Peking Duck. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) INCA – Spicy Tuna Tostada ADVERTISEMENT Ipoh Malaysian Cuisine – Lorbak Izu** – Tuna Ceviche Jia Qi Sweets – Chow Luck Club Foodie Market** – Dragon's Beard Candy Jia Qi Sweets - Chow Luck Club Foodie Market's Dragon's Beard Candy. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Khu Khu** – Kumara Spring Roll Kingi – Hot smoked kahawai from Little Barrier with horseradish Lebanese Grocer** – Chicken Shawarma ADVERTISEMENT Leigh Eats** – Fish & Chips Lot Nineteen – Cinnamon Rolls* Lucky Gs – Thigh Guy Mae Nam Khong** – Drunken Spicy Duck Mairangi Bay Bakery** – Braised Beef Short Rib Pie MASU by Nic Watt – Wagyu Kimchi Gyoza Black Origin Wagyu Beef & Kimchi Gyoza, Pickled Cucumber, Soy Vinegar Mekong – Baby Braised Crispy Pork Belly, Caramelised Chilli & Soy, Asian Slaw* ADVERTISEMENT Metita** – Handpicked Beef Scotch, 55 day dryaged, palusami purée, ravigote Mint As Waiheke Island, Burgers & Shakes** – Mint As Burger Moxie Restaurant** – Beef Wellington, potato and truffle foam, pumpkin seed and parsley pesto Moxie Restaurant's Beef Wellington, potato and truffle foam, pumpkin seed and parsley pesto. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Mumbaiwala** – Dahi Puri Nanam – Lechon Ockhee – Tofu BBQ Gui ADVERTISEMENT Ohui Restaurant** – Pāua Tortellini Onslow – Chatham Islands Crayfish Éclair, Organic Egg, Spiced Bisque, Herbs Our Land** – East Coast Brisket The East Brisket Burger from Our Land, a new business on this year's list. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Paradise – Lamb Biryani* Peach's Hot Chicken – Peanut Butter Mousse Pie Pici – Pici Cacio e Pepe* ADVERTISEMENT Prego – Risotto All'Anatra Ragtag – Duck Carnitas Tacos* Ramen Takara** – Jade Ramen Ramen Takara's Jade Ramen. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Red Crab** – Sweet And Sour Chicken Rhu** – Honey toast with whipped yoghurt and nectarines Richoux Patisserie** – Steak, Jalapeño and Cheese Pie ADVERTISEMENT Richoux Patisserie's Steak, Jalapeño and Cheese Pie. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) San Ray** – Quinoa Toast with Smoked Fish and Pickled Egg San Ray's Quinoa Toast with Smoked Fish and Pickled Egg. (Source: Babiche Martens / Iconic Auckland Eats) Shelley's Kitchen** – Malaysian Spiral Curry Puffs SkyBar – Gold Bar* SkyBar's Gold Bar. (BABICHE MARTENS) Smiths Matakana** – Chef's Loaded Fries ADVERTISEMENT Sugar at Chelsea Bay – Raspberry Lamington* Tacoteca** – Ora King Salmon Aguachile (please note this changes with the season so fish varies) Tala – Raw Ramen Tempero** – Pão de Queijo (Cheese Bread) The 'Ansum Pasty Company** – Proper Cornish Pasty The Blue Breeze Inn – Steamed Bao Bun with roasted pork belly & pickled cucumber* ADVERTISEMENT The Engine Room – Twice Baked Goats Cheese Souffle* The Glass House Brick Bay – Leigh Skin-On Snapper The Local Waiheke – Fish Taco The Lodge – Passionfruit Drizzled Pavlova The Lodge's passionfruit drizzled pavlova. (BABICHE MARTENS) The Sugar Dealer** – Raspberry Cheesecake Brownie Tiger Bar & Restaurant** – Korean Fried Cauliflower, Gochujang Glaze, Sesame, Kimchi Vietnam Cafe – Spare Ribs Rice Noodles Soup


NZ Herald
06-06-2025
- General
- NZ Herald
Duncan Garner: How can we experience our own country at this price?
Duncan Garner: "We've locked out a whole pile of Kiwis, who will never experience their own backyard. We are all poorer for that." Photo / Babiche Martens


NZ Herald
21-05-2025
- Entertainment
- NZ Herald
Opinion: Can Auckland restaurants ever satisfy the food snobs?
Scampi on a stick - the corn dogs at Auckland restaurant Ahi. Photo / Babiche Martens Pity the chefs trying to feed a city's obsession with eating the Next Big Thing. At my little sister's 50th birthday party, I asked if I should fetch some bowls for the chicken chips she was serving alongside the Maggi onion soup dip. No, she said. That would just