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Irish Times
26-05-2025
- Business
- Irish Times
Artisan salt, eggs, butter and leaves producers among winners at Ireland food awards
Ireland's premier artisan food producers have been honoured by leading chefs at the 2025 Euro-Toques food awards . Winners across a range of categories included: Dingle Sea Salt, Coole Farm, Moy Hill Farm, Salt Rock Dairy and Ballylisk. The awards ceremony, held on Monday afternoon at Ashford Castle, recognised products nominated by chefs who use them in their restaurants and voted for by members of the Euro-Toques Ireland Food Council. More than 100 chefs, producers and Euro-Toques members gathered for a celebratory lunch featuring a harvest table of more than 30 Irish producers, including this year's winners and nominees. The annual awards, now in their 39th year were first established in 1996 by the late Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House in Co Cork. This year's theme, honouring Ireland's kitchen table, paid tribute to the place where food meets tradition, memory and storytelling and honoured seven champions, all makers of key cookery ingredients. READ MORE The Euro-Toques Ireland Food Council is a European community of chefs and cooks that champion local food integrity, craftsmanship and community-led gastronomy. The 2025 awards celebrated seven winners chosen across the categories of Water, Land, Farm, Dairy, Artisan Produce and Craft/Traditional Skills. The 2025 Awards winners Water Husband and wife Brian Farrell and Marie Holden are owners of West of Dingle sea Salt. Photograph: Bryan O'Brien/The Irish Times Dingle Sea Salt for its innovative and sustainable solar-evaporated, Atlantic-harvested sea salt that uses a fully off-grid, low-carbon process. Land Coole Farm for its cultivation of organic salad leaves using a regenerative approach that restores soil health and supports biodiversity. Farm Moy Hill Farm, Fergal Smith of Moy Hill Farm in Co Clare. Photograph: Paul Sherwood Moy Hill Farm for its ethical, regenerative egg production, its education programmes, community-supported agricultural boxes and on-farm transparency. Dairy (cultured butter) Salt Rock Dairy for handcrafted cultured butter using milk from its own herd and Wexford sea salt, a method that revives traditional butter-making. Dairy (soft cheese) Ballylisk Triple Rose cheese. Photograph: Paul Sherwood Ballylisk for The Triple Rose, a rich triple cream cheese, a luxurious product with depth and distinction, made from a single pedigree herd in Armagh. Artisan produce Wild Irish Foragers for helping to preserve Ireland's edible heritage, keeping forgotten flavours alive with its handcrafted syrups, shrubs and jellies made from foraged botanicals. Traditional craft/skill Seagull Bakery for the championing of bread made from Irish-grown grains and bold fermentation, reimagining traditional baking with creativity and skill. Lunch at the Ashford Castle event was prepared by chefs Liam Finnegan and Jonathan Keane, whose menus served local ingredients. Conor Halpenny of Square Dundalk and chair of Euro-Toques Ireland, said: 'We are honouring those who have kept Irish food grounded – producers and craftspeople who quietly shape our national identity through their work every single day. 'The Irish kitchen table is a symbol of trust, care and resilience,' said Aishling Moore of Goldie in Cork, head of the Euro-Toques Food Council. 'It is where we learn the fundamentals of food – not just how to cook, but how to value what we eat and who we share it with.' Each award category considered a fundamental element of the Irish food story, from ocean-harvested salt and nutrient-rich seaweeds to soil-nurturing salad leaves, pasture-raised eggs, and hand-churned butter.
Irish Examiner
08-05-2025
- Irish Examiner
East Cork, where the story of modern Irish hospitality first began
I often think of East Cork and West Cork as siblings; loyal to each other as good family members always are, never warring, but with certain marked differences in appearance and attitude and sometimes even the occasional frisson of rivalry. Cork is unquestionably the food county of Ireland, but once you have imbibed the food culture of the city and had your fill, attentions naturally turn to the countryside. So, which way do you turn, East or West? West Cork as a food destination is that sibling whose attractions are immediate and obvious and it is never shy in touting them, justly proud of its superb producers and great restaurants. East Cork is the more reserved sibling, also handsome though less inclined to shout about its charms but, more importantly, it is possessed of that special confidence of the older sibling who knows, when it comes to food, East Cork was the original national pathfinder, the place where the story of modern Irish hospitality first began. What's more, West Cork's own food producer movement, now internationally renowned, got its first big break thanks to the support of its Eastern sibling, when Myrtle Allen dining in a Kenmare restaurant encountered Veronica Steele's Milleens cheese for the first time. Milleens is rightly regarded as the food product that kickstarted the modern Irish specialty food producer movement but it needed the exposure of Myrtle Allen's Ballymaloe House dining room to attract the class of attention that would eventually lead to international awards and the beginnings of the modern Irish Farmhouse Cheese movement. By the time, those first awards began to head Westwards to Veronica Steele, in Beara, Myrtle Allen and her Ballymaloe House had been an internationally renowned restaurant for over 15 years, and is now unquestionably acknowledged as the place where modern Irish hospitality first began, when Myrtle first opened her East Cork home to the dining public in 1964. Ivan and Myrtle Allen, pictured at Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co Cork, in 1964, with their original Desert Trolley, at Ballymaloe House, which would go on to win World's Best Trolley of the Year 2019 at the World Restaurant Awards. And, though much has changed in the intervening 50+ years, it remains the first on any list of food and hospitality, not just in East Cork but also in Ireland. The death of Myrtle Allen in 2018 signalled the end of an era, though she had stepped back from the business some years prior, but it was the retirement several years ago of her daughter-in-law, Hazel Allen (who sadly died last year), that triggered a period of uncertainty for the esteemed country house hotel and restaurant, but it has come roaring back to life under the managership of Laura Behan with head chef Dervilla O'Flynn and head pastry chef JR Ryall breathing a whole new life into the kitchen, delivering menus to rival the very best in the country. Dervilla O'Flynn, head chef at Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, East Cork. Picture: Joleen Cronin Myrtle's daughter-in-law, Darina Allen, who began as a chef in Myrtle's kitchen, has in turn added to the international renown of East Cork as a food destination, when she and her brother, TV chef Rory O'Connell, first opened the Ballymaloe Cookery School in 1983. Celebrating its 40th anniversary just two years ago, it has become one of the most famous cookery schools in the world, drawing students from all corners, over 40 different nationalities at last count, and the cookery school and farm shop are always worth a visit. Myrtle and Ballymaloe's influence naturally seeped into its hinterland, first creating its own network of food producers to supply the restaurant and that was then followed by the creation of a local restaurant culture that has since yielded top notch cooking in more recent decades. A sample from chef Ciaran Scully's mouthwatering menu at the Bayview Hotel. The beautiful little clifftop village of Ballycotton is just down the road and is a very popular destination for walkers from the city and, for such a tiny place, punches mightily when it comes to food and hospitality. Unsung hero Ciaran Scully rarely touts his own charms but he turns out consistently fine fare in the Bayview Hotel while the Blackbird Bar & Field Kitchen is just one of several great pubs in the village, though the Blackbird comes with the added bonus of its own onsite catering truck turning out very lovely casual dining. The gorgeously restored Sea Church, first encountered on driving into the village, has been a massive success, both as a live music and entertainment venue and for its own considered casual dining menus. Enjoy a delicious dinner and a quality show at the creatively restored Sea Church in Ballycotton. While the village may have mourned the closure of Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant, Cush, at least it could comfort itself that it wasn't gone entirely, but instead had relocated to nearby Midleton, opening its doors mere weeks ago. Dan Guerin, Head Chef at Cush, Midelton. Midleton diners, having endured their own 'mourning' for the passing of the hugely popular Sage Midleton, have been more than consoled by the arrival of Cush into the former Sage venue and following a very smart makeover, chef Dan Guerin is already welcoming diners in their droves and is certain to turn this new venture into a restaurant of national renown. Midleton is also the birthplace of the Midleton Farmers' Market, the first in the country and still going strong to this day, and its produce can be found on the tables of some of the East Cork market town's other restaurants including the charming Ferritt & Lee where the cooking is rock-solid. The original Farmgate restaurant in Midleton was sadly lost forever to the catastrophic flooding but Bite Size café has gone some way to plugging the gap, not least for those with a sweet tooth and a hankering for their fine baked treats. Ballymaloe and Myrtle's dynasty has long been the big story of East Cork hospitality but there is now another 'big beast' buttressing the region's hospitality credentials. The crash of the Celtic Tiger greatly crimped the original aspirations for Castlemartyr Resort as a luxury destination hotel but the 2021 purchase of property and business by Singapore-based Stanley Quek and Peng Loh, adding to an Irish portfolio including Sheen Falls and Dublin's Trinity Townhouse Hotel, means there is finally the budget required for it to function as originally envisaged and GM Brendan Comerford and his team now have the entire operation purring like a Rolls Royce. Chef Vincent Crepel, whose restaurant Terre at Castlemartyr resort has just been awarded a second Michelin star. The jewel in Castlemartyr Resort's crown, though, must be Terre, its Michelin two-starred restaurant operated by the highly talented chef-patron Vincent Crepel who is delivering up superb menus combining French classical technique, Asian influences and excellent Irish produce. East Cork, flush with miles and miles of rich, rolling farmland has historically been less reliant than West Cork on the tourist dollar but this new invigorated Castlemartyr Resort and Terre restaurant have added enormously to the East Cork hospitality and tourism offering. Terre Restaurant in Castlemartyr Resort Cork, awarded two Michelin stars. 'I'll tell you a story that happened to me, as I went down to Youghal one day by the sea' — the immortal words of Tadgh Jordan's drinking song, popularised by Jimmy Crowley, bring to mind a time when daytrippers taking the train from Cork city turned the East Cork seaside town into one of the country's busiest tourism hotspots but passenger services were withdrawn in 1963 and the advent of package holidays in the 1970s and 1980s largely put paid to Youghal as that tourist destination of old. It is a terrible shame; with family connections in the town, I have been visiting since childhood and have always held a special grá for what I firmly believe is a still sleeping giant of Irish tourism waiting for the next revival. It has a sublime coastal location, where the River Blackwater's estuary meets the Celtic Sea, some lovely beaches and a charming town, even if it could use a little love in places. Re-opening a Cork-Youghal train connection is a must but in the meantime, I'll have to make do with a bracing beach walk followed by a delicious bowl of chowder in the legendary Aherne's Townhouse & Restaurant, Blue Book stalwart and another icon of East Cork hospitality.
New York Times
30-04-2025
- New York Times
A Little-Known Corner of Ireland Beckons
Less than an hour from Cork Airport, but tucked away off the main tourist trails, Ireland's Blackwater Valley is steeped in natural splendor and Old World romance. The area gets its name from the Munster Blackwater — a deep, fast-flowing river that wends through the verdant landscape before joining the Atlantic Ocean at the medieval town of Youghal. Flanked by the Knockmealdown Mountains to the north and blown by the fresh winds that come off the sea, the valley has its own microclimate, where the vegetation grows rich and lush, from ancient woodland to rolling pastures where the grass is so thick and green it looks almost artificial. As well as its natural beauty, the area is known for its landmarks that range from castles to follies, and a thriving cultural scene. It's well worth a diversion if you're planning a trip to Ireland. One of the most popular places to stay nearby is Ballymaloe House, home to the Ballymaloe cookery school. Many of Ireland's top chefs trained here, and Hannah Neeleman, of Ballerina Farm fame, recently spent three months doing a cookery course there — rooms are traditional and comfortable and cost from €280 a night (about $318), depending on the season. Or, head to the 220-acre Castlemartyr Resort (rooms from €233 a night), a five-star hotel set in a large manor house right next to a ruined castle. It's the perfect base for exploring the region and is a destination in its own right, with seven dining options, including a traditional Irish pub, the Hunted Hog. Castlemartyr is an example of what are referred to in Ireland as 'big houses' — large country homes built by wealthy Anglo-Irish landowners between the 17th and 19th centuries. In many parts of the country, they have either burned down or been left to decay and molder, but here, they are mostly still inhabited and thriving, partly because of a cohort of affluent newcomers. Lismore Castle lies at the heart of the Blackwater Valley, both geographically and culturally. This imposing gothic edifice looms high over the banks of the river, presenting a silhouette that's so dramatic and beautiful it looks as if it's escaped from a film set. It's the Irish seat of the Dukes of Devonshire — who also own Chatsworth, one of England's largest estates. Its former inhabitants include Adele Astaire, Fred Astaire's older sister and one of the most famous vaudeville stars of her day. She was a household name in the 1920s and 30s, before retiring from the stage to marry Charles Cavendish, the second son of the ninth Duke of Devonshire. During her time as chatelaine, she modernized the house, went on long walks and kept a pet goat. Today, the castle remains one of the region's top attractions. The extensive gardens are open from March to the end of October (full-price tickets cost €10), and while the interiors are off-limits to the general public, the entire property can be rented for group stays. Admission to the gardens also covers entry to Lismore Castle Arts, a contemporary art gallery that hosts an impressive roster of exhibitions by some of the world's leading artists. Recent exhibitions have included a site-specific installation by the British-Argentine artist Carolina Aguirre; a group show masterminded by Habda Rashid, the senior curator at the Fitzwilliam Museum and the Kettle's Yard gallery in Cambridge; and a collection of images taken by the New York-based photographer Lee Mary Manning, who was inspired by a monthlong residency in Lismore in the spring of 2023. If you're driving to Lismore, stop off at Ballysaggartmore Towers, an extraordinary pair of crumbling gothic gate lodges that look like miniature fairy-tale castles. Surrounded by woodland, with no other buildings in sight, these follies are free to visit. Be prepared for a walk — the trail is 1.5 miles, with rough paths. One of the region's main cultural events is the Blackwater Valley Opera Festival, which runs each summer and attracts musical aficionados from around the world to hear top-quality productions in a collection of remarkable venues. These include some of the finest country houses in the area, as well as the ancient St. Carthage's Cathedral in Lismore town. The festival comprises about 20 events over the course of a week, with approximately 5,000 visitors in total. 'The big draw is having Lismore Castle as a main venue,' said Susie Wingfield, a resident. 'It's an incredible outdoor setting for an opera, particularly in the evening. Also, all the recitals are in private houses and churches, which feels very special and intimate.' In the spring, the West Waterford Drama Festival takes place in the tiny village of Ballyduff, when Ireland's top amateur theater groups converge in the local hall and put on the sort of productions that you'd expect to see in Dublin or Cork. No trip to the Blackwater Valley would be complete without a visit to Ardmore, a small fishing village perched on the rugged coast. Despite having a population of fewer than 500 people, it possesses one of therare Michelin-starred restaurants in Ireland outside of Dublin, House. Inside the Cliff House Hotel, where rooms cost from €269 a night, including breakfast, the restaurant is open from Wednesday to Saturday and focuses on locally sourced ingredients with a particular emphasis on seafood, in a nod to Ardmore's maritime heritage. Linger over the seven-course tasting menu (€150 a person) before sinking into one of the supremely comfortable beds in the hotel, where you'll be lulled to sleep by the sound of waves crashing against the cliffs. The next day, spend a morning exploring the village, starting with a stroll around the ruins of the 12th-century round tower and cathedral. Stop by Ardmore Pottery & Gallery, a family-run business that sells contemporary ceramics and pieces by Irish makers. You can also visit the on-site studio, where you'll see earthenware pots being made by hand. If the weather's fine, there are plenty of sandy beaches — Curragh Beach and Whiting Bay are the two main ones. Literary types can attend a creative writing workshop at Molly Keane Writers Retreats (a three-day course is €350), where the former home of the Anglo-Irish author is regularly opened to budding creatives. Keane was a celebrated author and playwright with a long career, starting out in the 1920s before finding late success nearly 60 years later, when her novel 'Good Behaviour' was shortlisted for the 1981 Booker Prize. She's one of several writers associated with the Blackwater Valley — the travel author Dervla Murphy grew up in Lismore, while the poet Thomas McCarthy lives in the nearby town of Cappoquin. Molly Keane's daughter, Virginia Brownlow, still calls the Blackwater Valley home, despite having lived in both Dublin and London. When asked what keeps her in this rural corner of Ireland, her reply was simple: 'The beauty of it. It's such a lyrical, lovely place.' Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2025.
