Latest news with #BenSilvester
The Advertiser
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- The Advertiser
I explored Asia's hottest new spot - and what I found blew me away
Sky capsules of Busan. Picture: Getty Images By Ben Silvester What on earth is going on here? Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area I'm standing in the sandy outer courtyard of Seoul's Gyeongbokgung Palace. It's an enormous fortified square - at least 100 metres from wall to wall - but it is thronged with a crowd that has stepped straight out of the 19th century. The women are wearing hooped, high-waisted dresses in satin and brocade, with pearls and flowers in their hair, while the men have bright, flowing robes and tall, black, Amish-looking hats. At first I think there must be some kind of costume drama being filmed. Then I notice the phones. Everyone is taking selfies or staging elaborate group shots, posing and then obsessively checking the results. A Korean girl sulks past in a white dress covered in golden flowers, ignoring her friends. But as soon as she sees me taking photos she flashes a serene smile and a peace sign and glides on. Locals dressed in hanbok at Seoul's Gyeongbokgung Palace. Picture: Ben Silvester A country in fast forward This scene - I realise later - is what South Korea is all about: it's a country that reveres its traditions while embracing the future like nowhere else on earth. The crowd were wearing hanbok, Korea's national dress, our Seoul insider guide Meggie explains on a walking tour the next day. In the past decade it has roared into vogue with young people dressing up to look their best at cultural landmarks and take photos of each other. Tourists have jumped on the trend, too, getting free entry to top attractions if they're wearing hanbok. "What you saw at the palace was basically a standard Sunday," Meggie says. Tourists dressed in hanbok enjoying free admission at Seoul's Gyeongbokgung Palace. Picture: Ben Silvester "Nothing makes an old Korean person happier than seeing a bunch of foreigners wearing hanbok. There are retiree social clubs where they'll spend the whole afternoon down at the palace just watching the foreigners in their hanbok taking pictures of one another." Our Seoul walking tour takes us along the Cheongyecheon, a miraculous stream fringed by willows, reeds and a forest of skyscrapers. Running through the centre of the CBD, the crystal-clear creek was a fetid trickle surrounded by shanties just a few decades ago. "The city literally went from dirt roads to skyscrapers in 10 years," Meggie says. "People donated jewellery and even the fillings in their teeth to the cause. They took amphetamine injections to work longer hours and drag their country into the future. "Korea is the only country in the world to have gone from an OECD borrower, to an OECD lender." Seoul now vies for the most liveable city in Asia, with the world's fastest internet and a subway system comprising 768 stations and trains every couple of minutes. But among the glittering glass towers you're still likely to find an ancient stone gate marking the city's original limits, or a grand 600-year-old palace sweeping across 40 hectares of the central business district. It's a dizzying collision of old and new. Cheonggyecheon Stream in Seoul. Picture: Getty Images Korea's bullet trains - operating since 2004 - are a prime symbol of the new. The Korea Train eXpress, or KTX, whisks us across the peninsula from Seoul in the north-west to Busan on the south-east coast, one of 69 services between the two cities each day. The conductor bows as he enters the spacious, spotlessly clean carriage and bows again as he exits. The 420 kilometre trip takes just over two hours, and as we glide along, the mountains, rivers and paddy fields feel like a stage sliding by the window. The earpopping whoomph as we plunge into a tunnel is about the only reminder we are travelling at 300 kmh. Busan is the gritty upstart to Seoul's sophisticated ancient capital. Built on maritime trade, commercial fishing and heavy industry, its roots are deeply blue collar. When Korea's film industry boomed in the 1990s, the bad boy, gangster or criminal character was always from Busan. Gamcheon neighbourhood of Busan. Picture: Getty Images "People here are tough. Hot tempered, but warm hearted," our new guide, Brian, says. "It might sound like they're shouting at you, but they're not. They call this the summer capital. It's my favourite city, a romantic city." Seeing the broad expanse of Haeundae Beach from our hotel's rooftop pool - framed by densely wooded low mountains plunging to the glittering sea - it's easy to see what he means. Korea's biggest fish market - Jagalchi - is the city's beating heart. It is a riot of colour, with huge rainbow umbrellas shading an endless array of molluscs, crustacea, squid and fish. Some of the seafood looks mouthwateringly good. Some, like the aptly named "dog penis fish", or spoonworm, not so much. Brian says chopped spoonworms are often included among the dozens of small dishes in your everyday Korean meal. "It's a delicacy for some people. Very chewy, like gum," he says. Spoonfish is best filed under "acquired taste", along with hongeo, aka "piss skate", which is basically a sting ray that's been fermented in its own urine. Most Korean food is far less challenging, but visitors should be prepared for bold flavours - from rich, marinated beef ribs or barbecued pork belly to bright, spicy octopus or a cauldron of chicken broth filled with delicate hand-cut noodles. A fish market in Busan. Picture: Shutterstock On one level the daily meal is simple, built around rice, soup and kimchi - the chilli-fermented vegetables served at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Most visitors, if they know about kimchi at all, only think of cabbage, but there's an astonishing array of choices. "There's actually a saying here: 'Does it kimchi?'" says Jun, our host for the trip and an endless source of fascinating and quirky facts. "People will make kimchi from basically any vegetable, fruits like apple and pear, seaweed, and even seafood and meat." Beyond the rice, soup and kimchi, each meal is distinguished by its banchan, or side dishes. Chris - our guide for a moonlit food tour of Busan - gets into an argument with the waitress about which banchan to order at our first stop. The term "waitress" might be misleading, this woman is formidable. She gives Chris a dismissive wave and shake of the head as she walks off to place the order. "She didn't like what I was ordering," Chris laughs. "She said 'what are you thinking? Don't get that, get the pork!'" Yangdong Folk Village. Picture: Getty Images Much of Korea is run by these ajumma, or "aunties", women of a certain age with a work ethic forged from a time when their country was far less prosperous. The two aunties running this hole-in-the-wall work 12 hours a day, seven days a week. One is on the grill while the other does everything else. "They don't mess about," Chris says. "This is their fiefdom and if you step out of line they'll kick you out." The waitress is right about the side dishes, of course - the spicy stir-fried pork and the prawn and spring onion pancake are incredible. The rest of our evening consists of three full dinners at different locations, finishing up at Busan's harbourside pocha - rows of mobile tented street carts complete with a grill, a selection of wonderfully fresh seafood and another stern-looking aunty. The grill provides some warmth against the chill breeze as it jangles the rigging of the nearby fishing boats. But more importantly it perfectly sears the fresh-caught mackerel, cockles and beef short ribs as they are cooked before our eyes. Gyeongju: the open museum South Korea is starting to catch on as a destination for Australian tourists, but it's still a dark horse compared to neighbouring Japan. More than 200,000 Australians touched down in Korea in 2024 - 25 per cent up on 2023 - but nearly 800,000 visited Japan. The relative lack of visitors has allowed Korean culture to fly under the radar, but the country is a treasure trove of hidden history. The ancient city of Gyeongju - just an hour north of Busan - is a stunning example. The hills of Daereungwon in Gyeongju. Picture: Ben Silvester Gyeongju was the capital of Korea's Silla kingdom for nearly 1000 years. At its cultural peak in the year 750 it was the fourth largest city in the world, but centuries of invasion and civil war buried many of its greatest treasures. Walking the city today, the skyline is dominated by dozens of mysterious rolling green hills. The 10 and 20-metre high mounds run literally through the centre of town. It was only in 1921 - when a local farmer dug up an enormous gold crown in his backyard - that archaeologists realised the hills were the tombs of Silla kings and queens dating back 20 centuries. Most of the tombs still lie unexplored, but one has been excavated and reinforced for public access. It is an eerie experience descending past the countless decades of soil and gravel, down through the thousands of melon-sized rocks surrounding the burial chamber to the tomb itself. The mummified occupant has been removed, but his heavy timber resting place remains, laden with the intricate gold and silver necklaces, belts and weapons that lay with him for so long. Burial mounds More than 16,000 artifacts have been dug from the Gyeongju soil over the past century. "This place has the name 'open museum', because you can dig almost anywhere and find thousand-year-old treasures," Brian says. Our accommodation channels the historic surrounds, with verandah-fronted rooms surrounding a peaceful stone-covered courtyard. These traditional timber and stone houses are called hanok, and despite dating back to the 14th century they're remarkably snug in winter and cool in summer. BUSAN The best way to see Busan's rugged coastline is on the unique Haeundae Blue Line Park Sky Capsule train. to see Busan's rugged coastline is on the unique Haeundae Blue Line Park Sky Capsule train. Don't miss Gamcheon Culture Village, where locals have painted an entire hillside of houses to transform a slum into a rainbow-hued wonder. GYEONGJU Yangdong Folk Village, a short drive from Gyeongju, is a must see , preserved as it was in the 15th century. , preserved as it was in the 15th century. Don't miss Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple, perched on a mountain outside Gyeongju. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and among the few greatest achievements of Buddhist sculpture and architecture. Pop-ups and cherry blossoms Back in Seoul for a final day of touring, it is the official close of the cherry blossom festival. We have followed Jun to Yeouido, an island in the middle of the Han River. Han means "big", or "great", indeed no other major city on earth has such a broad river running through it. Yeouido is the home of the annual festival and its thousands of cherry trees are still heavily dusted with powder-pink and white blossoms. The avenue stretches out nearly a kilometre and it feels like the hushed crowd can sense the serenity of the moment. Suddenly a deranged scream bursts from the crowd. Then, after a short pause, another similar cry. I push forward, expecting a fight, or surprise protest, but then I decipher a snatch of the Korean phrase: "Kamsahamnida!" The Haedong Yonggungsa Temple outside Busan. Picture: Ben Silvester This means "thank you", which is confusing until I see the blue and yellow booth and the Ikea branding. A queue of locals are lining up at a pop-up event to celebrate the opening of a nearby store. Each one has to shout their welcome message into a tripod-mounted megaphone, earning themselves a small Ikea-branded chocolate as dozens film the spectacle. Several young Koreans deliver pretty tame efforts, but then an auntie steps up to the megaphone and unleashes, her voice breaking as she yells "KAMSAHAMNIDA!!" Getting there: Jetstar is the largest carrier between Australia and Seoul operating up to 10 direct flights each week. Flights from Brisbane start at $269, while Sydney fares start at $318. Touring there: Inside Asia's Soul of Korea small-group tour (maximum16 people) is designed for both first time and repeat travellers. The itinerary includes visits to Seoul, Jeonju, Busan and Gyeongju with nine nights' accommodation, private transfers and a full-time insider guide from $6080 per person. Explore more: The writer was a guest of Inside Asia
Canberra Times
6 days ago
- Business
- Canberra Times
Big Battery Boom: should regional Australia be worried about fires?
Test your skills with interactive crosswords, sudoku & trivia. Fresh daily! Your digital replica of Today's Paper. Ready to read from 5am! Be the first to know when news breaks. As it happens Get news, reviews and expert insights every Thursday from CarExpert, ACM's exclusive motoring partner. Get real, Australia! Let the ACM network's editors and journalists bring you news and views from all over. Get the very best journalism from The Canberra Times by signing up to our special reports. As it happens Your essential national news digest: all the big issues on Wednesday and great reading every Saturday. Sharp. Close to the ground. Digging deep. Your weekday morning newsletter on national affairs, politics and more. Every Saturday and Tuesday, explore destinations deals, tips & travel writing to transport you around the globe. Get the latest property and development news here. We've selected the best reading for your weekend. Join our weekly poll for Canberra Times readers. Your exclusive preview of David Pope's latest cartoon. Going out or staying in? Find out what's on. Get the editor's insights: what's happening & why it matters. Catch up on the news of the day and unwind with great reading for your evening. Grab a quick bite of today's latest news from around the region and the nation. Don't miss updates on news about the Public Service. As it happens Today's top stories curated by our news team. Also includes evening update. More from National More than 60 batteries are being built across the country, with a further 83 passing the approval process and 57 awaiting approval. The Hazelwood expansion will be mirrored Australia-wide, with more than 20GW of big battery projects in the planning pipeline. Just a decade ago big batteries were seven times more expensive than they are in 2025, with the latest forecasts predicting a further 14 per cent drop in the next year. The next phase is likely to be much quicker and much cheaper to build. The existing power lines coming into Hazelwood have the capacity to carry 1.6GW, more than 10 times the existing battery output. While the Hazelwood battery is only 150MW, there are already plans to expand it. What's on the horizon? "I think whenever a developer does a decent job, it really has to bring the community along with it and make sure they're involved in the process." "Once they saw the safety mechanisms and the reality of the battery, they were really comfortable with it. "The local Fire Rescue Victoria and CFA crews have come to the site to review it and understand it," he says. The Hazelwood site is 150MW, but has transmission capacity for 1600MW, so it will expand substantially in coming years. Picture by Ben Silvester Mr Quinnell says a key part of the approval and construction process at the Hazelwood battery was engaging local firefighters in the planning process. All of the previous high-profile big battery fires were using older, different technology than the Hazelwood battery. "When they did manage to start a fire, it was totally contained within the cube, so it never jumped from cube to cube." "The US manufacturer, Fluence, has done extensive testing, trying really hard to set them on fire. It was actually a huge effort. Mr Vila says each cube can isolate from the rest of the big battery system instantaneously, and there's a temperature trigger that fills the cube with chemical firefighting foam if it gets too hot. "Each battery cube is fan and liquid cooled and has a system that sends an alert if there's any problem. The Hazelwood big battery consists of three blocks of 50MW, made up of dozens of battery cubes, which each house 14 batteries. Picture by Ben Silvester "The batteries here are made from lithium iron phosphate, which is less volatile than previous battery technologies," Mr Vila says. The coordinator of Hazelwood's big battery, Jonathan Vila, says he can understand the concerns, but the Hazelwood site was extremely safe. Should regional communities be worried? "As a brigade, we're equipped and trained to fight grass and scrub fires," Mr Connors said. CFA member Doug Connors said volunteers weren't equipped to fight battery fires. An ABC report in May 2025 revealed CFA volunteers in Dederang in northern Victoria were opposed to a proposed big battery near the town. It has spurred concerns in some regional communities about the bushfire risk big batteries could pose. Another Tesla battery near Rockhampton in Queensland also caught fire in September 2023, and one of the world's largest batteries caught fire in California in January 2025. The battery had been offline at the time of the fire, meaning its monitoring and prevention measures were off. The Victorian government's Tesla battery outside Geelong caught fire during testing in July 2021. An inverter at the Hazelwood big battery to convert the DC battery power to AC so it can be pumped into the Victorian grid. Picture by Ben Silvester But big batteries have caught on fire in the past. "EVs have much better fail-safes and protections, but then with a BESS it's much higher again." "At the bottom, in terms of regulation, you'd have things like electric scooters," Mr Quinell says. Engie media manager Dylan Quinell says there is a wide spectrum of fire safety protection depending on the type of battery use. Batteries have an unfortunate association with fire in the public imagination, driven largely by regular videos of electric scooters, e-bikes and electric cars catching on fire. The whole site emits a low roar - the sound of hundreds of industrial fans cooling the battery units. At 150 megawatts (MW), it is equivalent to 30,000 rooftop solar systems generating for an hour. The battery is just 18 months old, coming online in December 2023 at a cost of somewhere near $150 million. Each cube contains 14 batteries about the same size as you would find in a small electric vehicle. The former Hazelwood coal mine, now partially flooded, with the Yallourn coal fired power station in the background. Picture by Ben Silvester It resembles a large gravel car park, but instead of cars, it is dotted with dozens of white metal cubes arranged in rows of six. Compared to the towering chimneys of the coal plant, Hazelwood's big battery is pretty modest. Its owners - the French energy company Engie - decided to replace the power station with a battery, to make use of the huge power lines that once plugged into the plant. Hazelwood was Australia's dirtiest power plant when it was decommissioned in 2017. ACM travelled to Gippsland in south-east Victoria to visit a big battery built on the site of the former Hazelwood coal-fired power station. From coal to batteries Ballarat, Warrnambool, Albury-Wodonga and Newcastle will all have a handful of batteries around them in the next five years, but nearly every regional town will have at least one nearby. That's a lot more batteries, and most of them will be built in regional areas. But forecasts by the Australian Energy Market Operator (AEMO) show Australia will need at least 22GW by 2030 and 49GW by 2050. These 30 batteries can store 3 gigawatts (GW) of power. There are 30 big batteries operating across the country - seven in Victoria, six each in NSW, Queensland and SA, and eight in WA. Wind and solar farms have been the most obvious part of that change, but batteries are the next crucial piece: a power source when the wind doesn't blow and the sun doesn't shine. Australia is in the grips of an energy revolution that is transforming many regional areas. The big batteries are coming Hazelwood big battery coordinator Jonathan Vila explains how the battery cubes link into the Victorian grid. Picture by Ben Silvester To find out more, ACM went inside an operational big battery to learn how it worked and how risky it really was. But the boom has brought concerns from country residents, farmers, and even volunteer firefighters about the potential fire risks it could bring with it. All other regional websites in your area The digital version of Today's Paper All articles from our website & app Login or signup to continue reading Subscribe now for unlimited access. Australia is in the midst of a big battery boom, with hundreds of mega-batteries soon to be dotted across regional areas. Your digital subscription includes access to content from all our websites in your region. 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