12-07-2025
Maison Margiela & CELINE Debut New Directors as Balenciaga Says Farewell in This Week's Top Fashion News
Glenn Martensmade his long-awaited debut forMaison Margiela, presenting a memorable collection rooted inMartin Margiela's visionary legacy and the romantic contributions of the tenured former creative directorJohn Galliano. On July 9, the designer took his audience back to where Martin Margiela staged his final collection in March 2009 at Parisian cultural space Le Centquatre.
The opening directly references the 2009 show with translucent polyurethane armor. Later, what appeared to be leather coats were finished with a rigid and rugged quality, and even the seemingly light, graceful fabrics appeared burnt and tattered. Towards the close, renewal became imminent in technicolor florals, and a long-sleeve dress covered with the spoils of a golden treasure chest. While the impressive debut marks a new era at Maison Margiela, Martens demonstrated his skill in advancing established legacies with novelty.
Michael Riderdebuted his highly anticipated first collection as creative director forCELINEin Paris. This homecoming marks a new era for the luxury house, defined by preppy styles, sculptural silhouettes, glamorous eveningwear, and skinny jeans, following Hedi Slimane's departure.
Rider, who previously worked at CELINE underPhoebe Philo, emphasized the brand's core values: quality, timelessness, and enduring style. His collection blended business with extravagance, featuring muted trench coats and blazers accessorized with decadent gold jewelry. Bold blues, saturated reds, and rich greens appeared on oversized bags and perfectly proportioned sportswear. Rider's vision prioritizes longevity, aiming to create investment pieces that transcend generations and become a cherished part of the wearer's life.
In his final collection forBalenciaga,Demnamarked the end of his decade-long tenure, reflecting on fashion's constant evolution. He emphasized the industry's need to 'dress the future before it has a name,' a profound statement underscoring his design philosophy.
The 54th Couture collection, set in Paris, featured campaign stars likeKim KardashianandNaomi Campbell. Demna reimagined classic 'La Bourgeoisie' styles with bold tailoring and subtle prints, alongside Hollywood-inspired glamour, notably referencing Elizabeth Taylor. Men's looks showcased his signature elevation of everyday items, including a couture sneaker and a 'jewelry box' laptop case, blending the mundane with the extraordinary. This collection, seen as a clean slate before Pierpaolo Piccioli takes over, was notably subdued and elegant, focusing on meticulous detail rather than past gimmicks.
Berlin Fashion Week SS26showcased an impressive lineup of designers, drawing international attention to the city's top talent. The event highlighted unique fashion manifestos, includingDavid Koma's debut menswear catwalk, 'I LOVE DAVID,' which featured wearable formal ensembles inspired by David Beckham and Michelangelo's David.
GmbH's Spring 2026 show, 'Imitation of Life,' offered a poetic and emotional commentary on the global state, looking to childhood for a hopeful Beil's 'Milieuschutz' collection marked a return to intention, reflecting on transformation and responsibility, with designs inspired by their new studio in an old pharmacy. Lastly,SF1OG's Spring 2026 show explored obsessive desire and emotional decay through the lens of a teenage dream, showcasing youthful freedom and craftsmanship on antique textiles.
Justin Bieberhas officially launched his new fashion label,SKYLRK, unveiling its first vibrant collection. This venture marks a shift from his previous brand, Drew House, reflecting a new creative vision. After nearly 18 months of teasing, the initial drop features a range of apparel and accessories, including hoodies, headwear, oversized sunglasses, and two footwear models.
The collection boasts hoodies in 'Fizz' yellow, 'Super Blue,' and 'Smudge' black, complemented by beanies in 'Gum' pink, 'Jelly' red, and 'Fizz.' A standout piece is the 'Upside Down' oversized sunglasses with bold, bubbled lenses, an aesthetic echoed in the 'Chunky Mule' and 'Beach Slide' footwear. The entire collection is now available on SKYLRK's official webstore, with further brand details expected soon.
DesignerHeron Prestonhas reacquired full rights to his namesake brand fromNew Guards Group(NGG), signaling a fresh start. Preston, who launched his label under NGG in 2017, bought back control amidst strategic shifts for NGG, including a recent bankruptcy filing and its acquisition by Coupang. This move follows other brands likeAMBUSHandPalm Angelsalso departing NGG's portfolio.
Preston emphasized his commitment to his creative vision, stating he 'fought for my name, my work and my vision.' Now based in Brooklyn and independent of external investors, he is poised to launch his next collection in October. This reacquisition allows Preston to fully focus on expanding his unique design aesthetic, marking an exciting new chapter for the brand.
