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Yahoo
12-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Burç Akyol Fall 2025: Confront the Hard Words
For fall 2025, Burç Akyol declared himself a fighter against the stigma surrounding the LGBTQIA+ community and put a campy twist on those degenerative words he was labeled with growing up. 'The only thing you can do is make them become your banners, and then no one can offend you,' Akyol said backstage. More from WWD Most-searched Paris Fashion Week Moments: Prosthetic Boobs on the Runway, Doechii's Schiaparelli Dress, Julian Klausner's Debut and More Viral Fall 2025 Headlines Jenna Ortega Goes for Sharp Angles in David Koma Cutout Dress for 'Death of a Unicorn' New York Screening LVMH Appoints Deputy CEOs at Louis Vuitton and Dior The collection was ultimately drag, done in a high-fashion way, as he played dress up with the ideal female protagonist he had in mind. She seemed to be in power and has control over her body and her life. On the top floor of the Institut du Monde Arabe, the show opened with a long, geometric-patterned coat made from bath towel-like material. He then offered a slew of sleek, faux-fur-trimmed jackets and boxy tailored blazers paired with drapey balloon trousers or split hem cigarette pants. From the second half, the looks pivoted toward see-through, acid color evening numbers. The designer said his personal favorite was look 28, a sheer chartreuse blouse styled with a cobalt blue slit skirt. 'It's almost like wearing nothing. The liberty of that has no equal,' Akyol added. While the pieces, in reality, would end up in the wardrobe of some oil-rich ladies, Akyol said that within his position as a designer, he would like to voice his support to the marginalized groups in a world that's collectively turning right. 'We have all these things going on. We cannot talk about them. We're going to offend the market and our buyers. But we just have to be resilient, keep pushing, and not forget who we are,' he added. Launch Gallery: Burc Akyol Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
23-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Roksanda Fall 2025: Art and Craft
Roksanda Ilincic took to the skies once again, showing a collection filled with offbeat color combinations and oversized proportions on the 17th floor of Space House, the refurbished 1960s show venue in Covent Garden that has spectacular views — when it's not so cloudy. She drew inspiration from the late artist and sculptor Phyllida Barlow, who worked leftover, everyday materials such as cardboard, fabric, plywood and plaster into her large-scale works. In this age of sustainable fashion, and a make-do-and-mend mentality, especially among young people, Ilincic was spot on trend. More from WWD Penelope Tree Is Back on the Runway, and Will Walk for Fendi in Milan Stephen Jones Serves Up a Feast for the Senses for Fall 2025 London's Mayor Opens London Fashion Week Store The designer rooted around her studio and used leftover materials, mainly from her spring 2023 collection, to create the sculptural, abstract looks in the show's finale. Deadstock included melton wool (which she uses to line the inside collars of coats), paper, raffia, viscose and big, stiff squares of sponge. Skirts and tops fashioned from those floppy sponge panels seemed to float around the models' waists and necks, while ragged-edged fil coupe dresses, coats and tunic tops looked as if they were made from Silly String. Ilincic said she left those colorful fil coupe threads 'free and loose' so they could fall in all different ways and create different types of sculpture 'on their own.' The main collection had a similarly arty feel, with standout pieces including a sheer, floaty gown that was a patchwork of lavender, yellow and cornflower blue; and a lineup of lovely pink dresses, some of which were painted. Not all of the looks had such a light touch. Some of Ilincic's collaged creations were heavy-handed, including the dresses, headpieces and long belts made from layers of giant sequins that rustled as models walked. Oversize jackets with sheer black panels, and a fuzzy-backed coat, swamped the women wearing them, and looked almost comical at times. Those outsized proportions were more suited to the art — or sculpture — gallery, and will need a few tweaks before they hit the shop floor. Launch Gallery: Roksanda Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
10-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Jonathan Cohen Fall 2025: Ladylike Glam, With a Sportif Twist
Picture this: the glamorously dressed Elizabeth Taylor screaming at boxing matches in the '60s. Turns out, these photographs do exist, and were prevalent on the mood board of Jonathan Cohen's fall 2025 collection. 'I thought how she looked at the boxing match was amazing,' the designer said, noting that in his research he learned that in 1963, Muhammad Ali (then known as Cassius Clay) was knocked out after becoming distracted by the ringside, screaming Hollywood starlet. More from WWD Gucci to Open a Buzzy Milan Fashion Week Next Month Building a Wardrobe With Milan Men's Fall 2025 Presentations Ashanti Hits High Notes in Adrienne Landau's Chinchilla Faux Fur Coat to Sing National Anthem at World Series 'In my head, I came up with this whole story of them meeting and maybe having a night out,' he said of fall's juxtaposition between the fashionable, ladylike star and the famous athlete. Throughout the fall collection, designs were inspired by both sides of the rope in artful ways. There were tiny boxing shorts, luxed up in blue velvet or silk satin featuring a smashed gardenia ceramic floral printed (inspired by one of Taylor's namesake perfumes); sportif striped ladylike dresses, pleated skirts and peplum tops, and knit boxing tanks on the sportiest end of the spectrum. Ditto Cohen's ultra-fun assortment of matching boxing boots, a part of his larger, ongoing shoe collaboration with Larroudé. Elsewhere, Taylor's eyes were woven into a great snow print leopard jacquard topcoat, and her favorite flower turned into embroideries on playful denim layers and a graphic white cotton shirt, or as a 3D floral embroidery on a striking evening look. Throughout the lineup, Cohen melded a strong sense of polish with playfulness, also seen through a lace-inset slashed leather skirt, lady jackets comprised of scrap materials and debut eyewear, designed to resemble singer-songwriter Siouxsie Sioux's signature strong eyebrow, in partnership with Selima Optique. 'We knew we didn't want to do our regular presentation format, so we came up with the concept of working with incredible women right in our lives,' Cohen said at his Sunday afternoon presentation, staged as a gallery at Rockefeller Center featuring fall's campaign imagery, mood board and mannequined looks. Along the gallery walls, attendees could see a handful of the closest women in Cohen's and his brand's life: cofounder Sarah Leff and her mother, Dede Kantorowitz-Leff; Dilone; Sally Singer; Batsheva Hay; Phyllis Kao; Jeauni Cassanova; Kimberly Drew; Marina Larroude; Joanna Gong; Gigi Burris; Mei Zou; Carola Righes; Sophie Conti; Brigitte Conti; Sarah Pidgeon, and his own mother, Elena Kassner. Launch Gallery: Jonathan Cohen Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
08-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Christian Cowan Fall 2025: Embarking on a Refresh
Christian Cowan is embarking on what he described as a 'big refresh' for fall 2025, opting to create a collection that centered on his creative expression rather than making styles for sale. 'As you develop your career as a designer, you get lots of opinions and advice whether you ask for it or not,' Cowan said. 'You get that within creative stuff and business as well and obviously we want to grow the brand. I'm really glad we were promoting sales-worthy party dresses, which I love doing, but I don't know whether they need to have a place in my show. I think that can exist within the brand and on e-commerce and our retailers, but our runway doesn't have to be what we sell.' More from WWD Celebrities Front Row at Christian Cowan Fall 2025: Sam Smith, Kesha, Cole Escola and More New York Men's Day Showcases Emerging and Established Designers Kesha Was a Sweet Surprise at YSL Beauty's Candy Club Party The designer stayed true to his campy, theatrical design codes for the collection, stating he wanted to bring a childlike spirit to the runway. He created several 'gum dresses,' which he made from silicone molds made to look like chewing gum splattered all over dresses, and several dresses embellished with high heels hanging off the skirts. While the looks were kitschy, they exuded Cowan's signature playfulness and whimsicality. The collection was also an homage to his late friend and investor Abbie McLaughlin. 'I love the spirit of this because [McLaughlin] was such a wildly creative person and so fun,' Cowan said. 'I think a lot of the spirit of this collection is taking from that childish creative spirit that she had, but it's this idea of being a child at home and you're playing with things and creating things and we've kind of taken that idea, but made it in a really amazing way.' Many styles leaned into craft and creativity, but Cowan still delivered new takes on his signature partywear, such as polka-dot corseted dresses with a peekaboo bra, a minidress made out of labels and a lingerie-style maxidress. The craft was balanced with thoughtful construction, especially through the manipulation of feathers. There were feather-embellished dresses with the material used to resemble swipes of lipstick, an ornate feather headpiece that wrapped around the model and dresses with feathers transformed into paillettes. Cowan's fall 2025 collection reflected the designer's playful spirit and camp roots, while showing a new, craft-like direction that will be exciting to see play out in coming seasons. Launch Gallery: Christian Cowan Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
26-01-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
In the Jungle, the Mighty Jungle, With Sacai
Maurice Sendak's children's classic 'Where the Wild Things Are' has long been fashionable among the milk-and-cookies crowd, and on Sunday Chitose Abe took the monster tale to a new audience with a collection where sleeves sprouted fur, boots stretched to Abominable Snowman proportions, and thick swathes of fabric enveloped models. 'We wanted to take our friends to the wild side, and walk there together,' said Abe, referring to her collaborators at Carhartt, Ugg and J.M. Weston. Abe added that while the collection was heavy on thick fabric and hefty layers, looks could easily be dismantled for the milder months in a world that's heating up. More from WWD Junichi Abe Is Stepping Down From Kolor KidSuper, Bape to Partner on First Elevated Bape Collective Collection Celeb-loved L.A. Designer Kwame Adusei Is Popping Up In Paris As always the outing was fun, with lots of patchwork, exaggerated proportions and different textures that fit together like puzzle pieces. Shaggy fur was out in force, as a supersized fluffy scarf worn over an olive corduroy suit; the lining on a brown coat with a '70s feel, and sprouting from the sleeves of a statement trench, and a black wool suit. Some of the knee-high boots so hairy they resembled Cousin It from 'The Addams Family.' Shearling was everywhere, too, lining stompy, thigh-high boots and hiking shoes, spilling over the front and back of a hooded technical jacket and warming the insides of a chic, chocolate cotton coat with a high collar. Given the absurdist theme, Abe went wild with proportions, adding big, floppy pockets to workwear pants, giant peplums to sweaters and jackets, and thick, furry hems to skirts. She stuffed puffer fabric under the backs of tailored cape jackets, and gave knits a 3D spin with chunky flower embroidery in her bid to bring a little fantasy — and heat — to the cold reality of winter. Launch Gallery: Sacai Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
