Latest news with #Blachman-Gentile
Eater
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Eater
The Best Dishes Eater San Francisco's Editors Ate in May
There's certainly no shortage of excellent food to be found in San Francisco and the Bay Area — but there's plenty worth skipping, too. Luckily for you, Eater editors dine out several times a week (or more) and we're happy to share the standout dishes we encounter as we go. Broccoli pizza at The Laundromat Unfortunately, it took me more than two years to learn Balboa Street's Laundromat had gluten-free pizza. The times I tried to go upon its maddeningly popular debut, I couldn't get in, giving up over time as I thought, 'Well, what can I eat at a bagels and pizza place anyways?' I'd go by in the mornings, grabbing a cup of Grand Coffee, ever curious as my friends wolfed the bagels. On a sunny evening, I finally ordered my gluten-free pie. Stupendous. Stupid springy and crispy at the same time, crackly bits of cheese on the base with light slices of fennel reigning above all the indulgent lordliness below. After the Brussels sprouts, the goat cheese was nutty and rich enough that I thought there was a base of tahini beneath the dish, and I could barely finish. Fortunately, I have reason to wait in line next time. The Laundromat (3725 Balboa Street) is open for dinner Wednesday and Thursday 5 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m., and Sunday 5 to 8 p.m. — Paolo Bicchieri Devilish half chicken at Jules Those who have attended Max Blachman-Gentile's pop-up, Jules, know very well the mastery of his pizzas, as he's toured them around town at various restaurants since 2023. Just this month, Blachman-Gentile opened his new permanent restaurant in the Lower Haight, and yes, the pizzas are amazing as always. But this location is also a chance to see Blachman-Gentile stretch beyond the pies. So I'm here to sing the praises of one of the (non pizza) showstoppers from a recent meal: this devilish half chicken. The nicely-salted, crisp, fried chicken skin is just the eye-popping start of this dish that employees in season vegetables and herbs — here, some snap peas and mint — along with deliciously-cooked chicken underneath. I was also truly impressed by the sauce, which packs a nice heat to it without being overwhelming, and it served as a nice accompaniment to the mushroom-loaded Fun Guy pizza on the table. If I may, while you're at it, don't skip the desserts: my dining companion and I split both options, including an incredible ice cream with chocolate shell and fennel pollen on top. Jules (237 Fillmore Street) is open 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Saturday. — Dianne de Guzman Squid ink fried rice at Le Soleil Also in the Richmond District (can anyone tell I moved recently?) is the simple, unadorned treasure chest of a restaurant Le Soleil: This could very well be the lead ship in the west side's restaurant armada. The extended naval metaphor is in honor of this squid ink fried rice, crowned with tobiko as garlic and scallion dot the scene and encircle the dish. The chunks of squid are well placed throughout the elegant dome of rice, allowing for chew without texture overload. The pop from the fish egg and the crisp of the fried garlic provides further balance. Ordering the quail, flambéed table side, is a sharp move. Our server said he fires a ton of them every night. When you're a captain of San Francisco dining, that comes with the territory. Le Soleil (133 Clement Street) is open Mondays 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 8:30 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. — Paolo Bicchieri Joojeh kabob at Lavash As a food editor going out on the town often, when I dine with friends, I'm typically expected to be the one to pick the location. There's nothing wrong with that, as it comes with the territory, but what I'm usually interested in is where my friends love to go for a meal on their own. I have my own lists and (insane) Google map pins, but oftentimes when I force the decision on others, I find places that aren't yet on my radar. Such was the case at Lavash, a charming Persian restaurant on Irving Street, where I had a recent lunch this month. Letting my friend take the lead on ordering, it was a truly refreshing meal, including an herb-filled sabzi paneer platter, ghormeh sabzi, and this lovely joojeh kabob. Composed of chicken breast and thighs, the marinated meat sang against the grains of perfectly cooked basmati saffron rice. This friend, a regular, thankfully knew to ask if the kitchen could add zereshk, or barberries, atop the rice, which gave everything another dimension as we tore into each bite. Pairing with this food is a gorgeous space just bursting with flowers, and it's an all-around great place to drop in for a meal, and one I'll be coming back to in the future. Lavash (511 Irving Street) is open from noon to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, and noon to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. — Dianne de Guzman Sign up for our newsletter.
San Francisco Chronicle
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- San Francisco Chronicle
Hot pizza popup from Tartine alum finally opening S.F. restaurant
Opening soon: a restaurant from a pizza popup that built buzz for blending Bay Area sourdough and crispy New York-style pies. Jules Pizza will fire up the ovens in the Lower Haight at 237 Fillmore St. on May 20. The traveling pizza operation from owner Max Blachman-Gentile, the former culinary director of famed bakery Tartine, has been a draw at venues like wine bars Buddy and Birba, serving pizzas topped with classic and seasonal ingredients. Blachman-Gentile named the popup in honor of his maternal grandmother, Julia. Jules, as she was known, taught his mother how to cook, and she in turn taught him. Among his most cherished memories, he said, are special family dinners with many relatives, often with his mother making pizza, his favorite food. 'This is a story about grandmas,' he said. Two classic-style pies will be permanent fixtures at Jules. The Marone ($21), which Blachman-Gentile described as a 'fancier version of cheese pizza,' comes topped with two types of mozzarella — low-moisture and fresh, made in-house — caciocavallo and Pecorino Toscano. The Spicy Ronny ($24) comes covered in pepperoni slices, togarashi pepper flakes and Calabrian chiles for a bit of heat. White pie fans can look forward to the Fun Guy ($25), topped with a mushroom cream sauce and roasted mushrooms, red onion and rosemary. To amplify all the ingredients, Blachman-Gentile uses Hornkuhkäse, a rare Swiss cheese he described as 'almost like a fondue on its own.' The menu's rotating seasonal pizzas will feature fresh produce from Bay Area farms. With summer right around the corner, the chef-owner is looking forward to his hit Field Dream pizza, with roasted corn, sungold tomatoes and a drizzle of an aromatic pesto-like sauce made with Thai basil and serranos. Until those crops are in, he'll be making the most of spring garlic to flavor his herby meatballs ($17) and working with asparagus that will go into crudo dishes. Beyond pizza, the menu will include a chicken with blistered snap peas, braised butter bean mash and an oregano-white wine jus. There is also a charred, deeply caramelized arrowhead cabbage ($15) with a sauce using Calabrian chile butter, topped with a pumpkin seed gremolata and shaved bottarga. The beverages list will focus on wines and beers. There will be some soju available as well, in a nod to a series of Jules' popups in Seoul. Diners will have the option of a traditional pour, or a soju bomb for their beer. 'This is meant to be approachable,' he said. 'We want people to feel like they had a nice night out that doesn't just feel like they went to a fast-casual restaurant.' Blachman-Gentile's pizza making process is meticulous, though that's not unusual for a pizza obsessive whose resume includes time at New York pizzerias Emily and Roberta's. His flour is from Cairnspring Mills of Washington State, which uses a proprietary milling method that leaves plenty of the wheat bran inside the flour, but still yields a light and fluffy crust. 'You're able to get more of like almost a whole-grain dough without it tasting or feeling like a whole-grain dough,' he said. Roughly a day's fermentation is the sweet spot, he said, for the crispy, light pies he prefers, a departure from what's become common among his peers. 'When a lot of people talk about pizza dough and fermentation times they think longer is better. I don't think that's the case,' Blachman-Gentile said. His procedure yields a New York-style pie that's crispy and charred but still light enough that it flops when you pick up a slice. In true New York style, the kitchen at Jules Pizza is fitted with a gas-powered deck oven. As much as he likes the propane-powered stone ovens from his popup days, after 'so much schlepping, we're happy to not have to do anymore,' he said. Some of the chef's Tartine experience will also be applied to making breads, which will be used in some dishes and for sandwiches. Remodeling the interior took roughly seven months; it now has a brighter look and feel than its predecessor, Iza Ramen. The dark pine banquettes and tables were sanded to reveal their natural light hue. The navy blue walls are now coated with white paint and artwork made by the chef-owner's friends, who use items found at local antique fairs and flea markets. Hanging above the tables are Tiffany pendant lamps with colored crystal lampshades. The glass features are meant to evoke the nostalgia of a trip to an old-school pizzeria, such as a dine-in Pizza Hut in the 1980s. 'I want some of the space to have a cozy grandma's house type of vibe,' Blachman-Gentile said. But, he clarified, 'a little more interesting than an actual grandma's house.'
