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Forbes
3 days ago
- Business
- Forbes
Former Winemaker Of Top Merlot Wine Is Now Making A 100% Merlot In An Unexpected Place
Glasses of red wine on a stone table The sound of several gasps along with widening eyes followed by broad smiles brought an exuberant energy to the room that was palpable. Few things can bring such awe to adults who have already lived a full and eventful life, as very little can catch them off guard with a joyful revelation. Yet at that moment, the words "blue clay" associated with a Merlot wine in a place other than where one would expect turned seasoned fine wine drinkers into giddy adolescents again. Blue clay is associated with some of the most outstanding Merlot wines in the world, such as Château Pétrus, located in the Right Bank of the prestigious wine region of Bordeaux. But there is another Merlot wine that sometimes outdoes Château Pétrus in certain vintages, according to some, and that is Masseto from the impressive wine area of Bolgheri in Tuscany. Masseto has a devoted cult of collectors that will go to great lengths to acquire a range of vintages in various formats and come together with other Masseto obsessives in fantastical gatherings to bask in the glory of these wines as a devoted collective. The famous Place de la Bourse in Bordeaux City, France The former winemaker of Masseto, Axel Heinz, became the estate director for both Ornellaia and Masseto properties in 2005 and had stayed there for 17 years, longer than any other estate director. Under his guidance, he had made Ornellaia and Masseto some of the most sought-after wines on the auction market, and now, he is man aging director and CEO of an estate with a longer history than his Italian predecessor, Château Lascombes on the Left Bank of Bordeaux in the eminently elegant wine sub-region of Margaux. Blue clay from the special plot that makes the La Côte Lascombes 100% Merlot wine Blue clay, also known as smectite clay, is a soil with significant iron composition, hence, it is known to give a distinct mineral character not found in wines grown in other types of clays or soils in general. The absorption of minerals is more significant for blue clay as it has properties that increase its ability to attract those desirable substances that help a wine to transcend excellence to a level where words cannot do it justice. Merlot has been the ideal partner for blue clay as it has enough expression of fruit potential to balance the fierce intensity of minerality that is endowed to the wine grapes that grow in this legendary soil. Also, clay has the ability to keep the ground cooler as it retains more water than other soils, so it is conducive to a grape that finds ideal balance with a slower ripening cycle. In Merlot's case, it keeps it from becoming too overripe, to which it has the tendency under certain conditions, yet allows it to gain enough concentration and complexity to become a magnificent wine with a regal power. Grape vine on the Château Lascombes estate And as Axel has been surveying the Château Lascombes' estate, he has found one area of their vineyard with some blue clay, and Merlot has already been planted there. Once he left Masseto and Ornellaia to go to a Bordeaux property on the Left Bank, to a Grand Cru Classé château (classified as a Second Growth in 1855), he thought that he would never make a majority Merlot, let alone a 100% Merlot wine, ever again (as Masseto, like Pétrus would sometimes add a touch of Cabernet Franc), as it is unheard of to make such a wine among the top producers on the Left Bank, unlike its neighbors on the Right Bank. But he never thought that he would find that much-desired substance that creates wines that still baffle many a wine collector who tries to make sense of their transcendental qualities. Reassessing the multitude of vineyard plots of Château Lascombes, which broadly span the Margaux region as they have holdings in three out of the five villages of the region, has become the main priority for Axel as he wants to make sure that only the best vineyards, except those deemed for the 100% Merlot wine, go into their grand vin. The grand vin, aka top wine of the estate, is in line with the tradition of Left Bank Bordeaux, hence a blended wine of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, sometimes with small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot grape varieties. Like many other Grand Cru Classé châteaux, the amount of vineyards that Château Lascombes owns has significantly increased since they received the privilege of being listed within the Grand Cru Classé classification of 1855. As a Left Bank classified château is allowed to include any vineyards within the region, such as, in this case, the region of Margaux, to their grand vin; hence, Château Lascombes has added plots that were acquired after 1855 to their top wine in the past. But Axel is changing that "modern" concept and going back to a more "traditional" idea, an idea that deemed Château Lascombes as a Second Growth over a century and a half ago, and he is only placing those original vineyards from the 1855 classification into their top-tier wine. Axel Heinz in the vineyards at Château Lascombes Yet he is not against progress when it is true to the terroir matching the expected quality level of the wine, and that is why he is making the 100% Merlot from those vineyards with the blue clay – it is a top-tier wine that defies all convention. It is all about the sense of place of the vineyards being utilized in the most appropriate ways. Axel was born in Germany but fell in love with wine while he studied winemaking in Bordeaux and worked in the area after graduating. It was an incredible opportunity for him to become the estate director and winemaker of Ornellaia and Masseto in 2005. Yet, he says he never thought he would stay so long as he always figured he would return to Bordeaux. And no matter how much glory there is at an estate that is an international sensation, through time, one starts to reassess one's priorities in life, and it was time for Axel to go back to his spiritual home. Yet he returns to the special place that ignited his passion with a wealth of experience from overseeing the most sought wines in the world with the mission of elevating a great château to the level of international sensation. And being a man who has worked with outstanding vineyards, he knows that delving into the soil is the path to preeminence. 2022 Château Lascombes The 2022 vintage was generally warm and dry for Bordeaux, so these wines are riper than usual. Yet they all still display a freshness and vibrancy despite the warmer temperatures. 2022 Chevalier de Lascombes, Margaux, Bordeaux, France: 68% Merlot and 32% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is the second wine of Château Lascombes' grand vin wine. A nose that is lovely and inviting, with aromas of freshly picked raspberries during a sunny day, is enhanced by a complex note of tar with a concentrated mid-palate underpinned with lots of blueberries and plum fruit and continues with an incredible depth of flavor until the finish. 2022 Chevalier de Lascombes 2022 Château Lascombes, Margaux, Bordeaux, France: 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Multifaceted bouquet of sage, dried flowers and fresh leather dance with vivacity in one's head with deeply concentrated blackberry fruit on the palate framed by finely sculpted tannins with an intense lifted energy along the finish that balances out the rich fruit. 2022 La Côte Lascombes, Margaux, Bordeaux, France: 100% Merlot from plots that have soils with clay over limestone with veins of blue clay throughout. Aromas that intrigue with dark, brooding fruit entice the drinker to dive into this abyss filled with delight and wonder. Slowly, the wine unravels its secrets with notes of crushed violets, sea spray and smoldering earth with a voluptuous quality on the body that satisfies on many levels, yet there is always something held back, so with each sip, more is revealed among the big velvety tannins and bright acidity that are seamlessly integrated along the sustained finish.
Forbes
21-05-2025
- Automotive
- Forbes
How Napa Valley And The Tuscan Coast Left Bordeaux Behind
Maremma sunset panorama. Countryside, sea and Elba island on horizon. San Vincenzo, Tuscany, Italy. Driving along the coastal road that cuts through Bolgheri, a modest sign reads "La California." Blink and you might miss it. But for those who work in wine, the moment is symbolic. Nestled into the northern foothills of Tuscany's coastal Bolgheri DOC, this small town shares more with its American namesake than just a name. It represents a close connection that both California's Napa Valley and the Tuscan Coast, including Bolgheri and beyond, have become standard bearers for Bordeaux varieties. Over the past several decades, these two coastal regions have emerged as benchmarks for Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot blends, offering distinctive expressions shaped by sun, soil, and sea. At this year's Vinitaly in Verona, Andrea Lonardi MW and I presented "California to California," a comparative masterclass exploring how Napa Valley and the Tuscan Coast have evolved. It was a packed room filled with producers, sommeliers, and journalists. What struck me most was how Napa was widely recognized by our Italian audience in name, but less so in understanding—particularly in terms of its geography, geology, and the many parallels it shares with the Tuscan Coast. Following the presentation, I caught up with a few Napa winemakers to further explore the idea. Our goal: to reframe the conversation. Instead of constantly measuring these regions against Bordeaux, we argued that Napa and the Tuscan Coast have developed shared, independent identities that bear a deeper connection with each other than with the French originator. A connection driven by sunshine, structure, and site. Napa Valley wine country mountain hillside vineyard Coastal Influence: The Sun and the Sea Both Napa Valley and the Tuscan Coast benefit from a defining coastal influence, but the mechanisms differ. In Napa, cool air and fog flow through the San Pablo Bay and up the valley floor, particularly impacting southern AVAs like Carneros, Stags Leap, and Oak Knoll. Mountain breaks near Calistoga in the north allow for pockets of diurnal shift even in warmer zones. "We have no significant humidity. We have no rain that changes our disease pressures. That's why our vintages are a little more consistent," says Freemark Abbey winemaker Kristy Melton. "We have this really beautiful cooling fog that helps preserve the acidity and our natural fruit flavors, and then that burns off in the morning, and then we've got wonderful heat and sunshine and drier conditions." In Tuscany, maritime breezes blow in from the Tyrrhenian Sea, tempering the region's Mediterranean heat and helping preserve acidity and aromatics. What they share is sunlight. Both regions produce bold, expressive wines with ripe fruit and plush texture. In Bordeaux, maritime humidity, vintage variation, and a later-ripening climate create a leaner, more structured profile. In Napa and Bolgheri, sunlight and warmth ensure ripeness year after year. A Conversation in Soils Geology tells the second half of the story. Napa Valley's soils are famously diverse, born from a collision of tectonic uplift, volcanic activity, and alluvial wash. "Napa is formed in three different ways. The eastern part is volcanic. The mountains are volcanic in origin. The western mountains are from tectonic plates colliding and pushing up, and then the middle of the valley was ocean floor, so it's sedimentary," explains Freemark Abbey winemaker Kristy Melton. "Most people have this binary belief you're either on the valley floor or you're on a mountain. And as you know, they're like many flavors in between,' says Matt Crafton, winemaker for Chateau Montelena. 'If we look at the great vineyards of Napa Valley, they sit on these alluvial fans. It's a very complex environment when it comes to soils and the interaction with fog, sunshine, and evening breezes makes it a very unique place for vineyards.' Sunset over Bolgheri vineyards, Maremma Tuscany, Italy. On the Tuscan Coast, Bolgheri's vineyards sit on a mix of alluvial and marine sediments. In the higher elevations, rocky and mineral soils add savory nuance and grip. In Suvereto and Capalbio, clay and limestone dominate, contributing power and structure. Alluvial soils, in particular, seem to offer a transatlantic bridge—producing some of the most finessed, age-worthy wines in both regions. Tasting Identity: Distinction Without Comparison We tasted eight wines from both regions: Each wine showed a distinctive character tied to its site, yet shared a common sense of ripeness, structure, and clarity. Standouts included the 2021 Ornellaia, which delivered incredible balance and aromatic depth, and the 2021 Chateau Montelena, which offered a vibrant, sculpted example of Napa Cabernet. The purity and elegance of Monteverro stood out for its seamless integration, while Poggio al Tesoro showcased an authentic, varietally precise expression of Cabernet Franc. Guado al Tasso and Petra impressed with their depth and harmony, and the Freemark Abbey Bosché and Stag's Leap FAY offered a clear view into Napa's capacity for refined, age-worthy structure. These are wines with identity—not because they mirror Bordeaux, but because they speak clearly of where they're grown. They have structure, freshness, and complexity, but they also have something Bordeaux doesn't: sunshine in their bones. Outgrowing the Shadow 'It no longer makes sense to compare Napa Valley or the Tuscan Coast to Bordeaux. These regions are no longer reflections—they are their own realities,' said Lonardi. 'In many ways, we are all sons of Sassicaia and of Robert Parker's influence, but each of these places has developed a vinous dialect rooted in its landscape. And perhaps more interestingly, they now speak in harmony with each other.' Chateau Montelena's Matt Crafton paraphrases Randall Grahm, the pioneering American winemaker of Bonny Doon, in a sentiment that echoes Lonardi's. 'Of all the wines in the valley and maybe even in the world, you can break them down into two different categories—wines of place, and wines of effort. And I think that there are very, very few wines of place in the world, probably a tenth of 1 percent,' says Crafton. 'Those are wines that are specifically made to represent a unique growing site. Those are wines where winemaking is about making yourself disappear to reflect the vintage and the site, whereas wines of effort focus on creating something unique through winemaking techniques.' In the case of Napa Valley and the Tuscan Coast, Bordeaux varieties have not just survived outside their birthplace; they have found new expressions, new cadences, and new audiences. Whether on the alluvial benchlands of Oakville or the rolling foothills of Bolgheri, they have found home. That evolution—away from mimicry and toward authenticity—was at the heart of our presentation. These two regions are no longer promising New World upstarts or rebellious outposts of Bordeaux. They are confident, mature, and dynamic wine cultures with their own internal logic, shaped by their respective coastal climates, complex soils, and bold histories. And most importantly, they are wines of place. For those still reaching for a Bordeaux comparison when tasting Napa or Bolgheri, the conversation has moved on. These wines are telling a different story now—one of sunshine, soil, and singularity.
