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Times
5 days ago
- Times
Eight of the best pubs in Edinburgh — chosen by our beer expert
Drinking in Edinburgh on summer nights can be a magical experience. It never quite gets properly dark, and the pubs open late. Especially at the height of the festival, it's quite easy to find yourself falling into bed just as the sun comes up. Scottish pubs have a slightly different vibe from their English counterparts. For one thing, whisky can be as big a draw as beer — maybe even bigger. Edinburgh's traditional Victorian pubs often have mahogany-back bars crammed precariously with bottles of the stuff. The space tends to be long and narrow, with the bar running down most of one side and a lengthy line of tables down the other. Ceilings are often high and walls are covered with mirrors, wood carvings and prints that feel a little more classy than the buy-it-by-the-yard vintage beer ads and foxhunting scenes more common south of the border. Many still seem to be missing the dense fug that filled the air before the 2006 smoking ban came in. I could easily have included eight of these traditional Victorian pubs here — the Bow Bar is a perfect example of the style, though I've left it out because I included it in my pick of the UK's best pubs in February. But there are others in this line-up, among a more eclectic mix — some tourist favourites with one or two more unusual, perhaps even controversial choices, that the festival crowds generally don't colonise in August. Victorian gin palaces were often considered gaudy and brash, especially by those who thought they were too good to drink in them. Really they were intended as palatial spaces that made for a heightened drinking experience but would still feel welcoming to casual visitors. The Café Royal, built in 1863, pulls off that difficult feat. The oval central bar evokes top Manhattan hotels, but images of notable Scottish historical figures in stained glass and tall paintings never let you forget you're in Edinburgh. I'm not sure anywhere else could achieve this balance of grandeur and approachability. When you leave, don't miss the Guildford Arms, just around the corner. 19 West Register Street; Back in 1710 Summerhall was a brewery, but in 1916 it made way for the Royal (Dick) Veterinary College, named after its 19th-century founder, William Dick. Since 2011, when the 'Dick Vet' college moved, it's been an arts centre and a key venue for the Edinburgh Fringe. The Royal Dick is a pub and courtyard in the centre of the complex. There's an on-site distillery and in 2012 Barney's Beer revived brewing here too, with the tongue-in-cheek claim of being 'Edinburgh's longest standing non-continuously operating brewery'. Theatre cafés are rarely memorable but the Dick, while being clean and modern, also pays homage to its history, with animal bones and lab apparatus among the many interesting specimens and artefacts around walls. A relaxed yet stimulating place, it is of course six deep at the bar during the festival. But it's worth timing a visit for when the show before the one you're planning to see has just started. 1 Summerhall; • The UK's 10 best proper pubs — chosen by our new beer expert Rose Street is famous for its pub crawl, beloved of rugby clubs and student societies. Most start at the Abbotsford, which makes sense as a first stop because it has an air of sober calm, aloof from the silliness further down. If it were a person, it would be one of those tweed-clad lairds who can tell you everything about whisky but never seems to get drunk. The gleaming central bar dominates the space; the tables squeeze in around it. The beers feature a solid selection of Scottish craft brewers in cask and keg, such as Cromarty and the local hero Campervan, but the whiskies are the star of the show, listed on wall-hung chalkboards beneath the beautifully corniced ceiling. Follow the local tradition of ordering a dram and a half-pint, then settle into a space that was once home to the drunken scoundrels who created Scotland's mid-20th century literary renaissance.3-5 Rose Street; At first, Bennets feels like an ordinary pub. There are no airs and graces, no sense that this is a special or important place. Buy a pint of Harviestoun's masterful Schiehallion or a taster flight of single malts and settle in, feeling at home in just the way a good, well-run pub makes you feel. And then you notice the selection of malts is much bigger than you thought, illuminated in lines on the original Victorian back bar. You notice the stained-glass windows shining at the front; the carved wooden arches behind you framing tall mirrors, bracketed by scenes from Greek mythology; the maps under the glass-topped tables. And you realise this is a hallowed place. Almost entirely preserved as it was in the Victorian era, Bennets wears its listed status and detailed elegance lightly. 8 Leven Street; You won't find this place in many guides to Edinburgh pubs. The first time I went, the taxi driver kept checking to make sure this was definitely the pub I wanted and told me to be careful. Those who miss the point of pubs such as this would call it 'rough'. The tables may be sticky and the music deafeningly loud, but the service is disarmingly friendly and the playlist superb. The flags covering the walls suggest an international crowd of devoted regulars. Apparently it's a little calmer these days than at the height of its notoriety, but even on a quiet afternoon you get the sense that the place is only taking a breather until the partying starts again. Order a pint of ice-cold Heineken if you must, but you probably really want to do shots here. Don't resist.58 Constitution Street; • Nine of the best pubs in London — chosen by our beer expert Lists of pubs such as this always divide opinion. And I don't think I've ever come across a pub as divisive as the Canny Man's. Some who know it will be aghast to see it celebrated here. Others will argue it's not a pub at all. Built in 1871 and run by the Kerr family ever since, this is a place with its own rules and customs. If you're looking for attentive service or a place to charge your phone, you should probably keep walking. But if you're someone who embraces the unpredictability, randomness and eccentricity of the British pub, ask nicely for the bloody mary, or a perfectly kept pint of 80 Shilling, and be patient. There's plenty to look at on the walls while you wait. 'Loved by those who know it and hated by those who do not understand it,' concludes the author known only as 'Tom', a regular who was employed to write the pub's history/guide/rulebook. 237 Morningside Road; This is a tiny space often described as hidden, even though it's only five minutes' walk from the middle of the shopping district in the Old Town. A simple Victorian pub with wood panelling, burgundy seating and one wall that looks as if it's made of old spirits casks, Kay's is arguably the city's most beloved cask-ale pub, with a constantly changing selection of the best Scottish brewers, as well as perennial favourites such as Timothy Taylor's Landlord. Online complaints that it's too small or too busy recall the story of US tourists complaining that the castle was built too far from the train station. 39 Jamaica Street West; • The eight best pubs in Norfolk — chosen by our expert The pub made famous by Ian Rankin in his Rebus novels would be noteworthy even if the fictional detective had never set foot in here. The author is still a regular — he has his mail delivered here — but Rankin is merely the latest in a long line of literary figures who have taken their liquid inspiration in 'the Ox', and it's easy to see why. Originally a corridor with rooms either side, it's now been opened up on the side housing the main bar. This is where the locals drink; if you want a seat, you'll probably need to try the separate room opposite. The decor is pared back, almost minimalist. This helps create a calm space, a place of refuge to enjoy a mid-afternoon pint of Deuchars. 8 Young Street;
Scotsman
06-07-2025
- Business
- Scotsman
20 businesses from Edinburgh and the Lothians recognised in Scottish Hospitality Awards 2025
Now in its eighth year, the awards aim to highlight and celebrate excellence in Scotland's hospitality industry and focus on recognising outstanding businesses and individuals. The winners of the eighth annual awards were announced on Wednesday, June 18 at a black-tie event held at the Glasgow Marriott Hotel. A spokesperson for The 8th Scottish Hospitality Awards 2025 said: 'We're proud to once again get to showcase the remarkable talent and exceptional standards within Scotland's vibrant hospitality industry. 'The people shortlisted for these awards have consistently demonstrated excellence, innovation, and dedication in their respective categories, setting the benchmark for quality and service within the Scottish hospitality industry. We want to congratulate all of our winners on their incredible accomplishments.' Scroll through our gallery to see the 20 local businesses recognised in the Scottish Hospitality Awards 2025. 1 . Bow Bar The Bow Bar in Edinburgh was recognised for excellence in the best bar category Photo: Third Party Photo Sales 2 . Little Farmers Little Farmers, in Craigie's Farm, South Queensferry was recognised for excellence in the children's entertainment category | Phil Wilkinson Photo: Photo Phil Wilkinson Photo Sales 3 . Stamash Stramash in Edinburgh was recognised for excellence in the local live music venue category Photo: Third Party Photo Sales 4 . The Brunton Theatre The Brunton Theatre was recognised for excellence in the best Scottish theatre category. The theatre is currently operating out of three venues in East Lothian; the Corn Exchange in Haddington, Loretto Theatre and Northesk Church in Musselburgh | Google Maps Photo Sales Related topics: EdinburghLothiansScotlandFood
