Latest news with #Burgundian
The Star
05-08-2025
- Business
- The Star
Malaysian F&B leader inducted into esteemed French wine fraternity
Soh (right) being inducted into the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin in France. FOR his efforts in promoting Burgundy wines, Datuk Kenneth Soh Chee Whye has been formally inducted into the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin as a chevalier (knight). The managing director of Luen Heng F&B Sdn Bhd (LHFB), importer and distributor of beers, wines and spirits based in Kuala Lumpur, was inducted during an elaborate ceremony at Chateau du Clos de Vougeot in the heart of Burgundy's vineyards in France. Chevaliers du Tastevin, which translates to 'Brotherhood of the Knights of the Wine-Tasting Cup', is a prestigious Bacchanalian fraternity of wine connoisseurs dedicated to promoting Burgundian wines, cuisine and culture. Soh was presented a tastevin – a small, shallow silver tasting cup – attached to a crimson and gold ribbon, as part of the ceremony. The ribbon's colours represent two main grape varieties of Burgundy: Pinot Noir (crimson) and Chardonnay (gold). The Confrerie's activities are generally scheduled around sumptuous chapter dinners and other culinary events, where Burgundy wines are served. At these events, members are expected to provide detailed appraisals of the wines served, contributing to a 'viticultural and gastronomic education'. LHFB said in a media statement: 'Born and raised in Kuala Lumpur, Soh is widely known as a trailblazer in the food and beverage fraternity for his foresight and investments in advancing the distributions of imported wines and spirits to support the country's F&B industry. 'Having taken over the helm of the company in 1993, Soh has transformed LHFB to an established F&B enterprise with a vision to be a great beverage company in Asia.' It said Soh's legacy in the realms of wine and whisky had earned him some of the industry's most prestigious honours. 'In recognition of his commitment to advancing Scotch whisky in Malaysia, he was appointed a Keeper of the Quaich in 2019. 'His tireless efforts in promoting French wines were further acknowledged by two of France's most respected wine fraternities, who conferred upon him the esteemed titles of Honorary Commandeur of the Commanderie du Bontemps and member of the Jurade de Saint-Emilion. 'In 2025, Soh marked another milestone with the conferment of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne from the Champagne region, and Burgundy's highest accolade, the Chevaliers du Tastevin,' it said.
Winnipeg Free Press
17-05-2025
- General
- Winnipeg Free Press
Time for ABC crowd to return to Chardonnay
Opinion Every year near the end of May, Chardonnay lovers around the world raise a glass in celebration of the noblest of noble white wine grapes as part of World Chardonnay Day, which this year takes place on Thursday. Here in Canada, the festivities will look a little different as Chardonnays from south of the border will be largely absent from our glasses. While Chardonnay's provenance harkens back to the limestone soils of France's Burgundy region — where the grape is made into crisp and complex white wines — it's in California where the variety has taken the world by storm. It all started nearly a half-century ago at the 1976 Judgment of Paris, a blind tasting by predominantly French judges where American and French producers squared off — and where California Chardonnay took the top spot (as well as third and fourth place), besting Burgundian examples and shocking the wine establishment. Chardonnay from Napa Valley and Sonoma became the darlings of the wine world. And about 25 to 30 years ago, lower-priced entry-level Chard bearing the more overarching California designation brought the grape's charms to a wider swath of wine lovers. Often made in a super ripe and fleshy style, almost to the point of being sweet, these full-bodied California Chards are also aged in or with wood, be it new American oak barrels or in tanks filled with oak chips or staves, which impart big vanilla notes. Chardonnay's richer, creamier texture can also be ramped up by implementing malolactic fermentation, a process that takes place after alcoholic fermentation that sees the sharper, racier malic acid converted into softer, creamier lactic acid. It's common among red wines, but only Chardonnay and a couple of other white wines typically undergo this process. As the California style of big fruit, loads of oak and excessive malolactic fermentation in Chardonnay took off, producers in other countries moved towards making wines from the grape that mimicked that style, letting fruit hang on the vines longer for more ripeness, leaving the wine in new barrels for longer and implementing widespread malolactic fermentation. It's not a style for everyone and resulted in some backlash, with wine lovers opting for ABC — anything but Chardonnay. While some mainstream producers continue to make these creamy fruit bombs, most Chardonnay producers in California and elsewhere have moved away from the style, opting for fresher, more lively fruit and more modest barrel aging — if there's any wood used at all. Winemakers in cooler-climate regions have embraced a more restrained, Burgundian style, while producers in warmer climates exercise more restraint in ripeness and oak levels and employ less malolactic fermentation. With American Chardonnay largely absent from our store shelves right now, it's a great chance for the ABC crowd to revisit the grape and discover the ways in which the winemaking style has evolved from the tropical butter bombs of old to today's more elegant, balanced examples. (Oh, and California Chardonnay lovers: Liquor Marts may have pulled American wines from their shelves, but some private wine stores still have stock they're selling, which was ordered long before relations with our southern neighbours went south… but you didn't hear it from me.) LaPlaya 2024 Un-Oaked Chardonnay (Colchagua Valley, Chile — $15.11, Liquor Marts and beyond) Aged in stainless steel for three months, this Chilean Chardonnay sees 35 per cent of the juice undergo malolactic fermentation. It's pale straw in colour and aromatically offers fresh peach and red apple notes along with hints of pineapple, mango and lemon candy. It's dry and light-plus-bodied, retaining lively, lemony acidity that ramps up the fresh tree fruit and tropical notes before the modest, 12.5 per cent alcohol finish. A very good value. 3.5/5 (imageTagRigth)Salentein 2022 Reserve Chardonnay (Uco Valley, Argentina — $21.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) Sourced from estate-owned vineyards planted between 1,300 and 1,500 metres above sea level, this Argentine Chardonnay is split 50-50 between stainless steel and oak barrels, with the latter portion undergoing malolactic fermentation. It's medium gold in colour and offers deep aromas of pineapple, mango, spiced apple and vanilla. On the dry, medium-plus bodied and slightly rich palate — thanks in part to six months of aging with the yeast cells, also known as aging on the lees — the flavour profile is rich and ripe, leading with tropical fruit, spiced apple and peach and structured by modest vanilla and spice notes from the wood. At 13.5 per cent alcohol, the finish is long and lingering, while the acidity's quite modest. Fans of richer, fleshier Chardonnay will find plenty to like. 4/5 Closson Chase 2021 The Brock Chardonnay (Niagara River, Ont. — $20, Liquor Marts and beyond) Medium gold in colour, like the Salentein the juice here is split 50-50 between stainless steel tanks and French oak barrels, the latter portion having undergone malolactic fermentation. Aromatically the fresh pear, red apple and apricot notes are quite lovely, with subtle spice and an almost-saline note coming through as well. It's dry and light-plus-bodied, leading with ripe red apple, pear and peach flavours and complemented by spice and modest vanilla notes, with just a touch of acidity and, at 12 per cent alcohol, a brief and somewhat chalky finish. A lovely example of cooler-climate Chardonnay, and a steal at this price. 4.5/5 uncorked@ @bensigurdson Ben SigurdsonLiterary editor, drinks writer Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press's literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben. In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press's editing team before being posted online or published in print. It's part of the Free Press's tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press's history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates. Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber. Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.
Epoch Times
12-05-2025
- General
- Epoch Times
Avila Cathedral: A Medieval Fortress-Church
In 1144, France unveiled the first structure that became the worldwide model for Gothic architecture—the Basilica of Saint-Denis. A quarter century later, the new style reached the margins of European culture. In Avila, Spain, the circa 12th-century Cathedral of the Saviour became Spain's first Gothic masterpiece. Designed to be a fortress church, the cathedral's apse was built into one of the 88 towers along the city's 1.5-mile-long defensive wall. While parts of the cathedral from the previous 11th to mid-12th century Romanesque structure were retained, the cathedral's basic core—a cross-shaped floor plan with front towers, buttresses and radiating chapels—was built between 1170 and 1475. Girald Fruchel, the Burgundian architect who introduced the Gothic style to Spain, significantly influenced the cathedrals design. The ambulatory, the apse, and part of the transept were built under his direction. Significant additions and renovations were made until the 17th century—most notably during the Renaissance. Pedro Berruguete began the main altarpiece at the turn of the 16th century. The transept's alabaster altars, baptismal font, and triforium panel reliefs, by Vasco de la Zarza, as well as the walnut choir stalls by Flemish sculptor Cornielles de Holanda, were carved in the first half of the 16th century. The most significant Baroque addition is the Velada Chapel. The cathedral's apse, situated in the turret at the back, is part of the of the city's fortified wall. Along the southern façade are three flying buttresses—supportive arches that protrude from the exterior wall. Typical of early Gothic architecture, these lateral buttresses help bear the load of roofs or vaulted ceilings. The cathedral's sanctuary and nave exemplify early Gothic aesthetics with the use of ribbed vaulting. Twenty-four early Renaissance paintings decorate the reredos of the High Altar. Pedro Berruguete began the altarpiece with portraits of the Evangelists and Doctors of the Church in the eight predellas (bottom portion of an altarpiece). The main, central panels were painted by Bartolome de la Santa Cruz and Juan de Borgona. makasana photo/Shutterstock The cathedral transept, set crosswise to the nave, features interior flying buttresses, which are uncommon in later Gothic cathedrals. The 15th-century stained-glass windows demonstrate a hallmark Gothic architectural style called tracery, the intricate stonework elements that support the glass. John_Silver/Shutterstock The pointed ribbed vaulting in the ambulatory, or covered passage, is a notable model of Gothic architectural aesthetics. The ambulatory is the oldest part of the cathedral and is built into the city's defensive walls. The triforium displays five decorated panels with reliefs. The central alabaster panel by Vasco de la Zarza contains the tomb of "El Tostado," a bishop of Avila. makasana photo/Shutterstock The oldest parts of the cathedral, including the radiating chapel, were built with a red-stained stone known as "bleeding sandstone." This semicircular chapel with its rounded arches is predominantly a Romanesque design. But the reredos paintings date from Spain's late Medieval transition to the early Renaissance. makasana photo/Shutterstock The walnut choir stalls are decorated with filigree carving and sculptures of saints by Cornielles de Holanda. While the design is eminently Gothic, the sculptures have a degree of naturalism typical of the emerging Renaissance. Gilding and painting wood sculptures were particularly common during the Spanish Renaissance. Fernando Cortes/Shutterstock What arts and culture topics would you like us to cover? Please email ideas or feedback to
The Guardian
18-04-2025
- Business
- The Guardian
Put down that chardonnay: try an aligoté instead
I find myself using the phrase 'relative value' more and more these days. You know, when you buy something you think is a good deal, because you're comparing it with something that's infinitely more expensive, so it just feels as if you're saving money. Buying Baylis & Harding hand soap because Aesop is £33. Renting a small room in London for more than £1,000 a month because at least you're not paying £2,000 for a place to yourself. A few months ago, people tried to coin this school of thought as 'girl math'', but we are all equally guilty of this specific kind of economic reasoning. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. Relative value is how you get what you want for less (but still spend the money anyway), and what I want is affordable white burgundy. I'm not going to get it, of course, but I can certainly spend what little money I have on something that's close enough. Enter aligoté. It's the second most-planted white grape variety in Burgundy, and a cross between pinot noir and gouais blanc. Historically, aligoté has been less valued than chardonnay, the iconic white burgundy, so it's been less widely planted or rooted out altogether to make way for the latter. It was popular on the Côte d'Or pre-phylloxera, but when new vines were grafted on to American rootstocks afterwards, aligoté became even less of a priority. And low demand meant growers gave it even less attention, resulting in unripe, thin wines that until recently tarnished its good name. Aligoté is also casually accepted as the original second ingredient in a kir, alongside creme de cassis, which were mixed together by the mayor of Dijon, Félix Kir, after the second world war to create a drink that showcased the region's produce. If aligoté has always played second fiddle to something, it's now slowly edging nearer the spotlight (with me behind it, shoving furiously), not least because it comes from a similar climate and similar soil to Burgundian chardonnay but, instead of costing in the £100s, it tends to rest around the £15 mark. Quite often, a producer's aligoté is grown only a stone's throw from their esteemed chardonnay plots, so if you've been priced out of your favourite white burgundy, this might well be the place to look. After all, it's all about relative value. There's even a group, Les Aligoteurs, of some 75 winegrowers, mostly from Burgundy, that is dedicated to proving the ambition and promise of this underdog grape. And, last year, in celebration of its 150th birthday, the Wine Society imagined the future of wine by developing 10 cuvées with its winemakers, and an aligoté made the grade, not least because it's a late-ripening variety, so is expected to thrive in a constantly warming environment. There's more than one good reason this grape may well stick around. Domaine des Côteaux du Val Lamartinien Bourgogne Aligoté 2022 £11.55 Vinatis, 12.5%. Citrussy, simple and floral: a great gateway into aligoté. Chatel-Buis Bourgogne Aligoté 2023 £14 Waitrose, 12.5%. Fresh, acidic and rousing. The supermarket website suggests adding 'a splash of cassis'. Over my dead body. The Wine Society's Generation Series Bourgogne Aligoté 2022 £18 The Wine Society, 12%. Made by iconic vigneron Sylvain Pataille, whose wines go for at least £10 more elsewhere. Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Bourgogne Aligoté Mallon 2022 £20 Emile Wines, 12.5%. A buttery, long-time favourite.
New York Times
03-04-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
‘When Fall is Coming' Review: Cooking Up a Mystery
For 'When Fall Is Coming,' the French filmmaker François Ozon has cooked up a little mystery and an enigmatic heroine. A sleek, modestly scaled entertainment about families, secrets and obligations, it features fine performances and some picture-postcard Burgundian locations. It's there in the heart of France, in a picturesque village in a large, pretty house, that Michelle (Hélène Vincent) makes her home. With her kind eyes, guileless smile and upswept hair, she looks the very picture of a sweet old lady. Looks can be deceiving, though, as we're reminded, and as Ozon's movie goes along, that picture grows amusingly slyer. Ozon's efficiency and polished style are among his appeals — his films include 'Under the Sand' and 'Swimming Pool' — and he lays out this movie with silky ease. In precise, illustrative scenes he takes you on the rounds with Michelle, mapping her pleasant environs, charting her routines and introducing her small circle of intimates, including another local, Marie-Claude (Josiane Balasko), a longtime, charmingly earthy friend. For the most part, the pieces fit together, though a few things seem off. For one, Marie-Claude's son, Vincent (Pierre Lottin), is in jail when the movie opens (though soon out); for another, Michelle's daughter, Valérie (Ludivine Sagnier), is viscerally, inexplicably, hostile to her mother. Michelle's life and the setup seem so pacific that the movie initially teeters on the soporific; which works as a sneaky bit of misdirection. Because just when everything seems a little too frictionless, someone prepares poisonous mushrooms for lunch, and someone else eats them, a turn that puts you on alert (where you stay). Ozon, who also wrote the script, continues to lightly thicken the plot but also withholds information, and before you know it, this obvious story has become an intrigue. One bad thing leads to another (and another), and the air crackles with menace. Michelle and Valérie argue, Marie-Claude falls seriously ill, Vincent takes a suspicious trip. Yet the more that things happen, the less you know. Ozon sprinkles the story with hints, summons up the ghost of Claude Chabrol (bonjour!) and, during one vividly hued autumn walk, evokes Grimm's fairy-tale 'Snow-White and Rose-Red,' about two sisters. He also foregrounds doubles: The sisterly Michelle and Marie-Claude don't have partners, and each has a difficult adult kid. Despite their nominal similarities, Valérie and Vincent are notably different; he and his mom are openly loving, for one. By contrast, the minute that Valérie and her son, Lucas (Garlan Erlos), drive in from Paris to visit Michelle, the mood turns ugly. Valérie is petulant and nakedly greedy, and she soon asks for Michelle's house. 'I'll owe less in taxes when you die,' she says before taking a swig of wine. Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times. Thank you for your patience while we verify access. Already a subscriber? Log in. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
