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Wales Online
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Wales Online
Welsh pub has one dish top restaurant critic says he drove 147 miles thinking about
Welsh pub has one dish top restaurant critic says he drove 147 miles thinking about Masterchef judge and critic Giles Coren was blown away when he visited the Black Bear which has made the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list four times in a row Masterchef guest judge and notable food critic Giles Coren has once again visited Wales to sample our "world-beating restaurant scene." On his most recent trip, Giles visisted some of his favourite haunts including Grain, Santos Ty Tapas and The Shed at Porthgain. But it was the Black Bear Inn in Monmouthshire, which blew him away. The pub has made it onto the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list four times in a row. Couple Josh and Hannah Byrne moved from Bristol to Bettws Newydd to run the pub back in 2018. Since then, the small venue has garnered huge success and has become one of the best gastropub offerings in Wales. It was named in the Good Food Guide this year. You can read more about their story here. Giles was clearly very taken with the pub describing the pub's rarebit as "historic".. He praised the "exciting wines by the glass from France, Italy, and Spain" and "more exciting local beers, such as the famous Butty Bach, a smooth, malty pint from the Wye Valley Brewery." The food was equally lauded by the 56-year-old gastronome, who wrote that Josh's famous deep-fried potato skins with whipped cod's roe "soared above my expectations" and admitted that he drove 149 miles thinking about them. He described the £6.50 dish as "Really potatoey, like the mummy and daddy of the first potato chip, hot and glassy crisp, sizzling in the fishy smear. Perfect with a big slurp of the Butty." Whipped cod roe and potato skins (Image: WalesOnline/Rob Browne) Giles also sampled the terrine of chicken and wild boar (£13), which was "good and coarse and strong," and the fava bean panisses (£5), which he said "displayed Michelin-level control and precision." But the Welsh rarebit was the thing most worthy of a mention: "The Welsh rarebit (£5), my first in actual Wales, was historic: the mustardy cheese filling whipped up and risen in the bread slice like a soufflé." He added: "It puts pressure on a dish when you've driven 149 miles thinking about it, but this soared above my expectations." His high praise is bittersweet. In May, the owners of The Black Bear Inn confirmed that they would be putting the pub up for sale. The announcement came as a shock to many in the local community and further afield, given the pub's soaring success and reputation. Despite the sad news, the team has reassured customers that nothing has changed just yet. In a statement shared on social media, the owners stressed they were "not selling in a hurry" and expected the sale process to take at least a year, if not longer. To read the full review from Giles Coren, visit The Times website. Article continues below
Wales Online
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Wales Online
'Everything here is great' The Times' glowing review of Wales 'world beating' restaurant scene
'Everything here is great' The Times' glowing review of Wales 'world beating' restaurant scene Times columnist and food writer Giles Coren has once again visited Wales to heap praise on our "world-beating restaurant scene." Times columnist and food writer Giles Coren heaped praise on Black Bear Inn in Monmouthshire (Image: WalesOnline/Rob Browne) The Times columnist and food writer Giles Coren has once again visited Wales to sample our "world-beating restaurant scene." After touring Pembrokeshire in 2022 and claiming, "I'd much rather eat this food here than, say, the food they serve at Sketch or Noma," Giles is back again to visit old favourites and try new venues. On his most recent trip, Giles revisited some of his favourite haunts in West Wales, including Grain, Santos Ty Tapas and Oriel y Parc in St Davids and famed fish and chip restaurant, The Shed at Porthgain. He also swung by the Black Bear Inn in Monmouthshire, which has made the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list four times in a row. Couple Josh and Hannah Byrne moved from Bristol to Bettws Newydd to run the pub back in 2018. Since then, the small venue has garnered huge success and has become one of the best gastropub offerings in Wales. It was named in the Good Food Guide this year. You can read more about their story here. The Black Bear Inn has garnered huge success and has become one of the best gastropub offerings in Wales (Image: WalesOnline/Rob Browne) Giles was clearly very taken with the pub. He praised the "exciting wines by the glass from France, Italy, and Spain" and "more exciting local beers, such as the famous Butty Bach, a smooth, malty pint from the Wye Valley Brewery." The food was equally lauded by the 56-year-old gastronome, who wrote that Josh's famous deep-fried potato skins with whipped cod's roe "soared above my expectations" and admitted that he drove 149 miles thinking about them. He described the £6.50 dish as "Really potatoey, like the mummy and daddy of the first potato chip, hot and glassy crisp, sizzling in the fishy smear. Perfect with a big slurp of the Butty." Whipped cod roe and potato skins (Image: WalesOnline/Rob Browne) Giles also sampled the terrine of chicken and wild boar (£13), which was "good and coarse and strong," and the fava bean panisses (£5), which he said "displayed Michelin-level control and precision." The Welsh rarebit was worthy of a mention: "The Welsh rarebit (£5), my first in actual Wales, was historic: the mustardy cheese filling whipped up and risen in the bread slice like a soufflé." His high praise is bittersweet. In May, the owners of The Black Bear Inn confirmed that they would be putting the pub up for sale. The announcement came as a shock to many in the local community and further afield, given the pub's soaring success and reputation. Despite the sad news, the team has reassured customers that nothing has changed just yet. In a statement shared on social media, the owners stressed they were "not selling in a hurry" and expected the sale process to take at least a year, if not longer. From Monmouthshire, Giles headed back to Grain in St Davids, Britain's smallest city, and said it's "still the best pizza and beer party in Wales, possibly the world." For the latest restaurant news and reviews, sign up to our food and drink newsletter here St David's is a surprising foodie hotspot (Image: Getty) He also visited Santos Ty Tapas, which opened in a former surf shop on the high street. Here, you'll find bold, flavour-packed Spanish tapas alongside beers, wines and a range of gin. Giles wrote of the tapas spot, "The big, airy dining room still hums with the smell of hot saws going through MDF, but the food, coming out of literally the same kitchen as Grain (it sits between the two restaurants, joining them like Siamese twins), is already mostly on point. No doubt because Bob himself, Wales's greatest pizzaiolo, is in there, whose eponymous Marmite, manchego and garlic 'Bob' pizza remains the edgiest thing I have ever put in my mouth twice." He added, "It's good, lively British tapas like in the old days; the place was rammed and a terrific time was being had." The food critic paid a morning visit to Brunch House at Oriel y Park and had the Savoury French toast'(£11). He described it as "a brick of brioche is 'loaded' with beans, cheese, bacon and a fried egg and arrives like a bubbling breakfast Vesuvius for maximum Instagramability." The Shed has won acclaim from Sunday Times writer Giles Coren (Image: Instagram / @theshedporthgain) Giles still had time to revisit the Shed in Porthgain, which is "still going full bongos". He wrote, "Walk over the clifftop from Abereiddy and go either for one of Rob's lobsters, caught that morning, or just a haddock and chips. There is none better, with a comparable view, in the world." Article continues below To read the full review from Giles Coren, visit The Times website.
Spectator
06-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Spectator
The bitter end of bitter
'Another pint of bitter, love, when you're ready.' To those of a certain age the request slips off the tongue like the opening line of a sonnet. A pint of bitter is as English as the first cuckoo of spring or the last rose of summer. It brings to mind a pub, the people in it, and that social phenomenon which binds us to those we trust – the round. And, of course, one pint may lead to another. Television adverts used to be full of jolly pint-swillers. Whitbread 'Big Head' Trophy Bitter was 'the pint that thinks it's a qua-art'. Tetley of Leeds, a big player in those days, introduced viewers to their 'Bittermen', with the declaration: 'You can't beat 'em.' Bitter, more than its maltier cousin mild, was the favoured hoppy drink of the pub before the tasteless brute lager swaggered into our taverns. Sometimes, particularly in the north and Midlands, the two went together in a single beaker – though if you try telling the tale of 'mixed' to the hipsters of Camden Town, you might get some funny looks. The trendy modern toper prefers to take his ale from a barrel marked 'craft', as though the indentured brewers of previous decades hadn't the foggiest. Their successors, terrified by the prospect of being behind the times, are running scared. The Wye Valley Brewery, responsible for the superb Butty Bach, has decided to 'rebrand' its best bitter as Pyoneer. Although they insist the change is a way of honouring native traditions – Canon Pyon being the village where the brewery has its roots – a spokesman rather gave the game away by referring to the hunt for 'a new demographic'. We know what that means. Out with the woolly jumpers; in with bucket hats. So fare thee well, bitter beer. It was lovely knowing you. These days, if you promise to behave, you may be passed off as 'amber ale', which, strictly speaking, is true. Sometimes your dance card says 'pale ale', which is more or less true. Bitter and pale ale have always worn each other's clothes – like those hipsters in Camden. Landlord, the world classic brewed in Keighley by Timothy Taylor, is designated a pale ale. Their best bitter has for some years been called Boltmaker – and jolly good it is, too. There is no time for tears so long as brewers offer regulars such sapid stuff. London Pride, the jewel in the crown of Fuller's of Chiswick, is also promoted as an amber ale. There was a deliberate change of tone when Asahi, the Japanese brewers, bought the company six years ago – and you can still get Pride worth a gargle. The Red Lion in Barnes, a white-walled fortress with a garden, is a good place to satisfy your curiosity. But the foreign invasion, represented in part by the rise of those overrated craft beers, has claimed some notable victims. Later this year, the Banks's Brewery in Wolverhampton, which has pleased Black Country boozers for 150 years, will close its doors. Their mild is justly famous so this is a real deprivation. The carve-up of regional brewers by multinational corporations has changed the culture of drinking habits in a land known for its range of ales The carve-up of regional brewers by multinational corporations has changed the culture of drinking habits in a land known for its range of ales. Jennings of Cockermouth and Ringwood of the New Forest are merely the latest brewers to join the likes of Boddingtons in the taproom of history. Who ever thought 'Boddys' could go? It was as much a part of Manchester folklore as rain in July and the gay village. Well, the palace next to Strangeways Hotel, where they brewed what beer guides called 'a distinctive straw-coloured bitter', was pulled down 20 years ago. It can be difficult to keep up with developments. Draught Bass is now brewed under licence by Marston's. It is one of the great beers, characterised by the red triangle – the UK's first registered trademark – that appeared in Manet's Bar at the Folies-Bergère. Is it a bitter, or a pale ale? It doesn't really matter – though you might be stretching the tolerance of Burton folk to call it an amber ale. Sitting outside the Swan Inn at Milton last week, six miles from the brewery, it was possible to close one's eyes and pretend the cataclysm hadn't happened. There are still corking beers to be supped. Bateman's of Wainfleet, Holt's of Manchester, Batham's of Brierley Hill, and Woodforde's of Norwich won't let you down. And there are plenty of local breweries giving it a go without having to pretend they've 'gone craft'. Is there an outstanding candidate? There most certainly is. If we put Landlord to one side, for the sake of argument, then Harvey's Sussex Best of Lewes lands the strongest punch. 'Sussex Best Bitter', to put a proper handle on the jug, must be considered the champion. At the Express Tavern on Kew Bridge you may find this great ale, which has been sluicing through their pumps for 105 consecutive years. There is no excuse for not popping in to see how they are getting on.
North Wales Live
23-04-2025
- North Wales Live
The world-class pub by a river in an underrated corner of Wales and you can get to it by canoe
If you fancy a proper pub visit with some character, paddle to The Boat Inn at Penallt. Straddling the Welsh side of the Wye Valley, this charming riverside boozer has serious charm. Named 30 as one of the cosiest pubs in the UK by the Financial Times, this is a "pub for all seasons", and when it's sunny, you can get there by canoe and take in the view from the hillside gardens. Here's why you should grab a paddle and float down to the Boat Inn this spring. The riverside pub is in the Wye Valley, a hugely underrated destination. Bordering England and Wales, this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty features similar rolling countryside, attractive market towns, and hiking trails but with fewer crowds. One of the area's most natural features is the flowing River Wye. This meandering river begins in Plynlimon in mid-Wales and flows south, becoming part of Wales and England's border and eventually meeting the Severn. You'll find plenty of walks, country pubs and watersports along the river to keep you occupied. Gently paddling down the river is a unique way to experience the beautiful scenery of the Wye Valley, spot wildlife, and get a great core muscle workout between riverside pub stops. Numerous outdoor companies in the area offer guided canoe and paddleboard trips down the River Wye. Many trips include camping or visiting riverside villages and pubs. You can also hire a canoe and captain your own vessel on a river pub crawl or camping expedition. Several pubs along the River Wye are a welcome rest spot if you're paddling up the river on an epic canoe or kayak trip. The Boat Inn is one of the best spots for a pint by the water and offers local ales and river views. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What's On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here The Financial Times said of the Boat Inn, "In frost or rain, thick stone walls and log burners help keep drinkers warm and dry inside, where they can sit with dog-swaddled legs nursing a pint of Butty Bach, perhaps taking in one of the monthly folk music sessions." "What other pub allows you to park in one country and cross a bridge to take a drink in another?" Built in 1650 from local stone, it has history in spades – and a fan in none other than Led Zeppelin's Robert Plant. It's got a bit of rock 'n' roll soul. Getting there is also very much part of the fun. You'll cross an old iron railway bridge – the very one that made a cameo in Sex Education. It once carried steam trains between Chepstow and Monmouth, but these days, it leads you straight to a cracking pint and a riverside view. Right on the riverbank are a handful of picnic tables where you can watch the Wye drift past, along with ducks, paddleboarders, and the occasional soggy dog. There's also a garden that climbs up the hillside, complete with a terrace and a waterfall trickling down the rock face. Bring your sunnies – it's a prime perch on a sunny afternoon. Inside, it's snug and welcoming, with a single cosy room centred around a roaring fire. There aren't many tables, so if you bag one, count yourself lucky, especially the window seat or the coveted fireside spot. The bar's local ales and ciders are on tap, and the vibe gets even livelier during monthly folk nights and impromptu jam sessions. Worried about unpredictable Welsh weather? Don't be, there's a covered outdoor area, too. Food is served Wednesday through Sunday and includes pub classics and small plates like burgers, bangers and mash, and charcuterie. If you're super lucky, you might catch a street food pop-up dishing up zingy local and international dishes. Thinking of making a weekend of it? They have reasonably priced rooms so that you can enjoy the riverside peace long after the last drink's poured. Just a heads-up, parking's tight on the pub side of the river. If you're driving rather than paddling, you're better off leaving your car in Redbrook and crossing the bridge on foot.
Wales Online
23-04-2025
- Wales Online
The world-class pub by a river in an underrated corner of Wales and you can get to it by canoe
The world-class pub by a river in an underrated corner of Wales and you can get to it by canoe Named 30 as one of the cosiest pubs in the UK by the Financial Times, this is a "pub for all seasons" The Boat Inn, Penallt, Monmouthshire (Image: The Boat Inn ) If you fancy a proper pub visit with some character, paddle to The Boat Inn at Penallt. Straddling the Welsh side of the Wye Valley, this charming riverside boozer has serious charm. Named 30 as one of the cosiest pubs in the UK by the Financial Times, this is a "pub for all seasons", and when it's sunny, you can get there by canoe and take in the view from the hillside gardens. Here's why you should grab a paddle and float down to the Boat Inn this spring. The riverside pub is in the Wye Valley, a hugely underrated destination. Bordering England and Wales, this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty features similar rolling countryside, attractive market towns, and hiking trails but with fewer crowds. One of the area's most natural features is the flowing River Wye. This meandering river begins in Plynlimon in mid-Wales and flows south, becoming part of Wales and England's border and eventually meeting the Severn. You'll find plenty of walks, country pubs and watersports along the river to keep you occupied. Article continues below The riverside pub is in the Wye Valley, a hugely underrated destination. (Image: Portia Jones ) Gently paddling down the river is a unique way to experience the beautiful scenery of the Wye Valley, spot wildlife, and get a great core muscle workout between riverside pub stops. Numerous outdoor companies in the area offer guided canoe and paddleboard trips down the River Wye. Many trips include camping or visiting riverside villages and pubs. You can also hire a canoe and captain your own vessel on a river pub crawl or camping expedition. Several pubs along the River Wye are a welcome rest spot if you're paddling up the river on an epic canoe or kayak trip. The Boat Inn is one of the best spots for a pint by the water and offers local ales and river views. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What's On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here Several pubs along the River Wye are a welcome rest spot if you're paddling up the river on an epic canoe or SUP trip (Image: Portia Jones ) The Financial Times said of the Boat Inn, "In frost or rain, thick stone walls and log burners help keep drinkers warm and dry inside, where they can sit with dog-swaddled legs nursing a pint of Butty Bach, perhaps taking in one of the monthly folk music sessions." "What other pub allows you to park in one country and cross a bridge to take a drink in another?" Built in 1650 from local stone, it has history in spades – and a fan in none other than Led Zeppelin's Robert Plant. It's got a bit of rock 'n' roll soul. Getting there is also very much part of the fun. You'll cross an old iron railway bridge – the very one that made a cameo in Sex Education. It once carried steam trains between Chepstow and Monmouth, but these days, it leads you straight to a cracking pint and a riverside view. Right on the riverbank are a handful of picnic tables where you can watch the Wye drift past, along with ducks, paddleboarders, and the occasional soggy dog. There's also a garden that climbs up the hillside, complete with a terrace and a waterfall trickling down the rock face. Bring your sunnies – it's a prime perch on a sunny afternoon. There are several pub stops along the way (Image: Portia Jones ) Inside, it's snug and welcoming, with a single cosy room centred around a roaring fire. There aren't many tables, so if you bag one, count yourself lucky, especially the window seat or the coveted fireside spot. The bar's local ales and ciders are on tap, and the vibe gets even livelier during monthly folk nights and impromptu jam sessions. Worried about unpredictable Welsh weather? Don't be, there's a covered outdoor area, too. Food is served Wednesday through Sunday and includes pub classics and small plates like burgers, bangers and mash, and charcuterie. If you're super lucky, you might catch a street food pop-up dishing up zingy local and international dishes. Article continues below Thinking of making a weekend of it? They have reasonably priced rooms so that you can enjoy the riverside peace long after the last drink's poured. Just a heads-up, parking's tight on the pub side of the river. If you're driving rather than paddling, you're better off leaving your car in Redbrook and crossing the bridge on foot.
