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Egypt Independent
10-05-2025
- Politics
- Egypt Independent
Former US Envoy to Syria calls Trump's Gaza plan ‘unrealistic', discusses future of Middle East
As the world undergoes rapid political and economic transformations with escalating conflicts shaking the Middle East, the region has witnessed over a full year of genocide in Gaza – and no clear prospect for an end. The conflict has expanded to southern Lebanon, reverberated in Yemen and Iraq, and reached Iran. The Future of the Middle East series seeks to explore these challenges through interviewing prominent politicians, theorists, intellectuals, and current and former diplomats, providing various regional and international perspectives. Through these discussions and insights, lessons from the past are shared in order to chart a path forward. From the roots of the Arab-Israeli conflict to regional interventions and the rise of new non-state actors, this series engages in enlightened discussions regarding what can be learned from history and how it will impact the region's future. It aims to explore visions for the future and highlight the vital role that Arab nations can play if historical alliances are revived, pushing towards sustainable stability while safeguarding their interests. The structure of the series involves two parts – the first being a series of seven fixed questions based on requests from readers on the future of the region. The second part features questions tailored to the interviewees specific background, providing new insights into the overarching vision of the interview. Ultimately, this series aims to explore how the Arab region can craft its own unified independent project – one free of external influence. Interview: In this exclusive interview with Al-Masry Al-Youm, American diplomat and former US Envoy to Syria, James Franklin Jeffrey discussed the current state of the Middle East and what the administration of US President Donald Trump is doing to resolve its regional tensions. He criticized Trump's plan for Gaza, calling instead for a return to Clinton's 2000 initiative as the foundation for a two-state solution, but stressed that the war will continue until Hamas surrenders entirely. Jeffrey, who previously served as the US Special Representative for Syria Engagement and the Special Envoy to the International military intervention against the Islamic State, also discussed his viewpoint on the current situation in the Middle East and what it needs to move forward. ■ The term 'Middle East' is a colonial geographical construct, but has now become the dominant term to describe a region that includes Arab countries, Iran, Turkey, and others — a region historically plagued by conflict rooted in imperialist schemes. How do you perceive the current reality of the region and the impact of its history? The 'Middle East' is not a modern invention. It has been a coherent geographic, cultural, political, and religious unit since the time of the Byzantines and the Persians. Today it encompasses the Arab world, with Israel at its center, as well as Turkey and Iran. However, various geographic, cultural, religious, and geopolitical factors prevent the region from expanding southward into sub-Saharan Africa (with the limited exception of Egypt), eastward into South Asia, or northward into Europe, Russia, and former Soviet republics, with the exception of Turkey. ■ The 'Middle East' as a term gained traction through US writer Alfred Mahan in 1902 and was later revived by Condoleezza Rice under the notion of a 'New Middle East' — a phrase resurfacing amid today's wars in Gaza and Lebanon and the growing conflict with Iran. How do you view these ongoing schemes, especially with Trump's return and the rise of far-right forces in the US? Israel is a very close and strong ally of the US — and will remain so. Therefore, it isn't surprising that Washington prioritizes Israel over the Palestinians. In fact, successive US administrations believe the Palestinians have missed repeated opportunities for lasting peace. ■ What role do major regional powers — particularly Egypt and Saudi Arabia — play in the face of such challenges? Since the relative decline of Sunni jihadist groups, the main geostrategic threat in the region has become the Shiite expansion and Iran's ambition for dominance — through its potential nuclear program and interference in Arab states. The Israeli-Palestinian issue, which transcends a bilateral dispute, resonates across the broader region and grants Iran influence as a backer of the more extreme Palestinian position — namely that of Hamas. But since October 7, 2023, Iran and its proxies — except the Huthis — have been defeated. Turkey and Israel have emerged as the region's most powerful states, alongside a reaffirmed US military presence. Egypt and Saudi Arabia can leverage their relationships with these three powers (Saudi Arabia and Israel are already in unofficial dialogue) to contain Iran and advance the Israeli-Palestinian track. From America's perspective, this would be their most valuable contribution. ■ There seems to be no unified Arab project to counter expansionist Israeli ambitions — visible in Gaza, Lebanon, Syria, and possibly beyond. This vision was articulated under Trump's 'smaller Israel that must expand' rhetoric. How can Arabs formulate a counter-project? Israel's expansionist rhetoric reflects the current Israeli government and ongoing trauma from October 7. It does not represent the majority of Israelis, Israel's true interests, or America's position — as Trump himself recently made clear to Netanyahu on camera regarding Syria. The Arab states must continue to make it clear to both the US and Israel that such expansionist ideas are misguided and not in anyone's best interest — not even Israel's. ■ How can the Arab world take advantage of global power rivalries and the discourse of a multipolar world order? How can it act in its own interest rather than becoming a pawn of one dominant power — particularly one that has drained the region's wealth for decades? The Arab world — at least for now — is not a unified, independent actor. But through history, economic ties, cultural connections, and military relationships (among other factors), it remains closely aligned with Europe, the United States, and the Western-led international order. While the region does engage with Russia and China, these powers do not and will not offer a real alternative to the relationship with the US. ■ If you were to envision the future of the region amid the ongoing wars and surrounding risks, what do you see unfolding? The region must build on Arab unity while cooperating with the US, Turkey, and Israel — key players who share common security goals, including deterring Iran and defeating terrorist groups. If this cooperation fails, the region will relapse into the chaos and violence that characterized the years between 2001-2023. ■ You previously revealed that indirect coordination was in place between the US and current Syrian President Ahmed al-Sharaa, prior to the fall of the Assad regime. Could you elaborate on this? [No direct response was recorded in the interview] ■ In your opinion, what pivotal events lead to the fall of Bashar al-Assad? And how could it happen in just 10 days after his regime held on for 13 years? There were several factors that led to the fall of Bashar al-Assad's regime. The first was the 'coordinated freeze' of the conflict between 2018-2020, based on actions and policies between Turkey, Israel, Arab countries, Europe, the United Nations, and driven by the US. The second factor was the defeat of Iran and Hezbollah at the hands of Israel and the US, which led to the withdrawal of most of their forces from Syria. And the third factor was Turkey's support for the attack by Hayat Tahrir al-Sham on Assad's regime, leading to the collapse of his army which had protected him for 13 years, and eventually the fall of his regime. ■ In 2019, you spoke about America's efforts to coordinate with Russia in preparation for the removal of Assad's regime. Was Assad's fall really part of a US deal? The fall of Assad was not part of an American offer to Russia. What was required from Moscow was to commit to all provisions of UN Security Council Resolution 2254, including a new constitution and elections as part of it. However, Putin rejected the offer at the time, and the Russians appeared hesitant because they feared that accepting it could lead to the fall of their ally Assad's regime. This is why they delayed their response to us. Several other factors contributed to this delay, such as Turkey's incursion into northeastern Syria in October 2019, the spread of the coronavirus, and the US presidential election, which carried the possibility of Trump's defeat. All of this delayed any action up until Biden's arrival, who then cut off talks with the Russians. ■ So, how do you see the power map in Syria under this transitional government? And what role do you expect for Russia in Syria after Assad's defeat? Syria is now divided amongst several powers, with Turkish, Israeli, and American forces present on Syrian territory, each supporting local forces. However despite everything, the country can and should unify entirely behind Damascus, with foreign forces withdrawing either partially or entirely. Regarding Russia, though it is no longer a major player in Syria it still has tools (like veto power in the U.N. Security Council and the ability to move currency and energy quickly) that are useful to it and painful for the Damascus regime. Moscow, of course, also seeks to maintain its military bases. There is no opposition from any other power to this, so Damascus could benefit from granting Moscow access to its military bases, but under certain conditions, including non-interference in Syrian internal affairs, non-use of these bases to destabilize other countries, and no cooperation with Iran on Syria. These should be absolute red lines for Damascus and the international community. ■ In 2021, during an interview with the 'Frontline' newspaper, you explained why the US refrained from targeting al-Sharaa, saying that he did not pose a threat to US interests in Syria or elsewhere, and that Hayat Tahrir al-Sham was 'the lesser evil among many.' Was there any understanding or deal between Ahmad al-Shara and the United States before Assad's fall? Yes, there was an agreement between al-Sharaa and the US before the fall of Assad, but it was not direct. In September 2018, the US issued exemptions to allow humanitarian aid to enter Idlib for three million internally displaced people, which benefited Hayat Tahrir al-Sham. The decisive move by Pompeo and Trump publicly in that same month, in cooperation with the Russians, stopped Assad's attack on Idlib, leading to an official endorsement of a ceasefire in Idlib at the Istanbul summit (Turkey, Russia, France, Germany) the following month. Later, the US government continued indirect communication with al-Sharaa to emphasize the need to avoid terrorism or opposing US counterterrorism operations in Idlib. ■ If you were asked to diagnose the roles of the US, Turkey, Arab countries, Israel, Iran, and Europeans in Syria, how would you assess each of them as a former US envoy to Syria? The US: A potentially key player in Syria based on sanctions imposed and ground forces. However, it has not yet developed a coherent policy towards Syria, and until it does, Syria will remain at risk. Turkey: The most active player at the moment, given Ankara's role in overthrowing Assad, its relations with Damascus, economic and military support, ground forces, and major security concerns starting with the PKK/SDF. Turkey has played a good role so far, but the danger lies in overreaching, leading to conflict with Israel or the Syrian Democratic Forces, undermining international unity and reducing chances for a positive outcome. Arab countries: They have surprisingly shown unified and effective support for Damascus. If they maintain these policies and offer more economic assistance, it will increase Syria's chances of success and positively impact Israel, the United SS, and Turkey. In short, Arab countries are crucial if they remain united and engaged. ■ In your opinion, why has the genocide in Gaza continued for over 17 months without resolution, despite Israel's targeting of innocent civilians? The war on Gaza will continue until Hamas surrenders or at least reliably relinquishes control of Gaza forever, or until Israel destroys Hamas, which is unlikely. The US position supports Israel maintaining a permanent military presence in Gaza, as it does in the West Bank. ■ How would you assess the Arab, American, and Israeli positions in this war, which has claimed over 50,000 Palestinian lives? Israel's position is one of the three options mentioned previously. The US supports Israel absolutely, but is more flexible on issues such as temporary ceasefires, prisoner exchanges, and humanitarian aid. As for the Arab countries, they are torn between rhetorical support for the Palestinians and criticism of Israel, and the reality of needing good political and security relations with the US and Israel – all while recognizing the impossibility of bearing the cost of rebuilding Gaza if Hamas remains a factor. No one will spend billions of dollars rebuilding Gaza just to see Hamas destroy it again. ■ Why do you believe Hamas is responsible, when all evidence from Gaza points to the Israel's occupation forces as responsible for the genocide and the continuation of the war? Hamas, of course, started the war and deliberately targeted Israelis. A ceasefire could have succeeded if Hamas had signaled it was willing to negotiate terms for leaving Gaza or relinquishing power. Instead, Hamas gambled that one or more pressure factors, such as hostages, international criticism of civilian casualties, actions or threats from Iran and its proxies, or anger in the Islamic world, would force Israel to withdraw. Hamas made the wrong bet, and therefore I believe it is responsible for the continuation of the war. ■ Don't you think this response is a clear bias toward Israel? What do you make of far-right groups circulating AI-generated videos calling for the destruction of the Al-Aqsa Mosque to build the Third Temple? I refuse to respond to this question. ■ A new proposal has been made for a five-year truce between Hamas and Israel. What do you think of it, and how do you expect the war to end? The five-year truce idea is impractical. It would leave Hamas in power and focus on the October 7th incident again, so neither the US nor Israel will accept it, and no one will offer reconstruction aid. ■ Will Gaza be rebuilt, or will President Trump implement the plan he proposed earlier? Trump's plan for Gaza is unrealistic, but the war will continue until Hamas is destroyed, surrenders, or Israel reoccupies it. ■ No one denies that Hamas has popularity in Palestine. Given that, how do you see its political and military future? Do you think it will submit to you? Also, what about the future of the Palestinian Authority? Hamas has no future, at least in Gaza. Its core existence is based on the destruction of Israel, and the US will not allow that. By the way, no one in the region, except Hamas and Iran's fractured axis, wants that. ■ What is your vision for resolving the conflict, and how can peace be achieved in the Middle East? I believe that the new leadership in Israel, as well as the Palestinians, should accept the Clinton plan from 2000, with enhanced international cooperation such as a US presence in buffer zones in the Jordan Valley and the Philadelphia Corridor, while continuing to contain Iran and terrorist groups as is currently the case. This would bring a period of peace similar to that of South America or Western Europe. ■ Do you think some Arab countries could normalize relations with Israel without demanding a two-state solution as a basic condition for achieving genuine peace in the region? Saudi Arabia will not implement this without some progress, at least under their current king. The UAE requested a halt to annexation before signing. ■ Some believe that Trump will seek to overthrow the Iranian regime or at least weaken it. What is your comment? Neither. Trump and the US in general want a nuclear deal and to build on Israel/Biden's efforts to reduce Iran's influence in the Arab region, nothing more. ■ Why doesn't the US adopt a similar stance on Israel's nuclear program? What are your expectations regarding the Iranian nuclear issue? This is a foolish question. What kind of double standard is this? Replace Israel with Pakistan. There is no real objection to Pakistan: even though it is not always stable, like Israel, it does not adopt an extremist ruling ideology or an expansionist agenda. As for Iran, I expect it to offer a negotiated settlement because it knows that if it does not, Israel and the US will destroy its nuclear facilities. ■ Some believe that the US, Iran, Russia, and Turkey are playing roles to reap benefits at the expense of the security and stability of the region's peoples. What is your comment on that? Turkey and Iran are part of the region and due to their great power, they play crucial roles in it. Regarding the US and Russia, compare the Middle East with South America, which has a larger population and economies, but where US or Russian intervention has been minimal since the Cold War. So what's the difference? Except for Cuba and Venezuela, South American countries enjoy internal stability and are externally committed to solving their problems independently and peacefully. Secondly, unlike South America, the Middle East raises issues that attract external attention, such as massive dominance over global energy supplies, multiple attempts to develop nuclear and chemical weapons, terrorism, and repeated wars that the region itself cannot contain, thereby impacting the outside world and pushing regional countries to seek external help. ■ How do you diagnose the situation in Sudan, Libya, Iraq, and Lebanon? What is your vision for solving the political and security crises in these four countries? Sudan and Libya are failed states. The best the international community can do is keep them united, provide humanitarian support, and press for de-escalation and prevent expansion. Iraq and Lebanon have a relatively different situation; Iran has destabilized them over the past 20 years, but Iran's influence has recently diminished. So, both countries now have a chance to return to their natural state if their people unite and work with the international community to keep Iran out, especially by avoiding the internal divisions that give Iran an opportunity to intervene. ■ Finally, you have never stopped warning about the Iranian threat, but at the same time, you have denied that Israel is the greatest threat given its practical expansions and desire to extend its influence in Arab lands. What is your comment? You cannot judge my answers. This is my perspective which, by the way, reflects the American viewpoint I represent. This is what I have.
Yahoo
05-04-2025
- Yahoo
Why you should visit Thessaloniki, Greece's 'city of gastronomy'
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). The sun has just popped over Thessaloniki's jumbled rooftops but there's already a queue out the door at Bougatsa Bantis. Inside, baker Philippos Bantis is handling the morning rush, bantering with his customers, many of whom he greets by name. It doesn't take long to get through the orders, since they're all for the same thing: bougatsa, the rich, crispy, buttery filo tart that's a breakfast staple in Thessaloniki. Traditionally, it's filled with creamy vanilla custard and dusted with icing sugar, but purists prefer it sketa, with no filling. Some scoff their bougatsa outside the shop, accompanied by chocolate milk or nuclear-strength Greek coffee, but most eat it on their way to work. There's a reason for Bantis's popularity. Unlike some bakeries in the city, it still makes its filo by hand. Every morning, Philippos and his team roll, knead, stretch and throw their dough, using techniques learned from his grandfather, who founded the shop in 1969. 'Everyone has their favourite shops for bread, cheese, cakes and treats,' explains food guide Nana Zygoura, when we meet later that morning near the 15th-century White Tower, a landmark feature of Thessaloniki's waterfront. 'I still use the same ones my parents did. Traditions and relationships like that are very important here.' Dressed in a silk scarf, white shirt and oversized shades, Nana has spent most of her life in Thessaloniki, and knows the city's food scene better than most. For over 2,000 years, Thessaloniki has been a cultural and culinary crossroads. On the Mediterranean's northeastern edge, it's a natural meeting point between Europe, Africa and Asia. Since its foundation in 315 BCE, the city has been visited — and occupied — by successive empires: first Macedonians, then Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans, before becoming Greek in 1913. Caravanserais of traders, merchants, adventurers, immigrants and refugees came, bringing spices, herbs, wines and condiments from their homelands, all adding to the city's gastronomic stew. Since 2021, Thessaloniki has been a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, partly in recognition of its long epicurean history. One of the best places to experience its cosmopolitan cuisine is at a market, and Nana and I head for the oldest in the city: Kapani. Sheltered under a rickety glass roof, it feels closer to a North African souk than a Greek market, with dark lanes crammed with shops, illuminated by flickering strip lights. Crates of vegetables are stacked like Jenga blocks, filled with scarlet peppers, rose-purple aubergines and plump figs. Fishmongers holler prices for octopus, swordfish, skate and sardines, while butchers slice from carcasses suspended from meat hooks. Bakeries sell koulouria — chewy, sesame-encrusted bread rings, another popular Thessaloniki breakfast snack — and shopkeepers haggle with their clientele, filling bags with spices, nuts, olives and cheeses. It's messy, noisy and chaotic. We stop at Notis, a traditional delicatessen on the edge of the market, where I meet owner Giannis Xisis under dangling sausage strings and haunches of dried ham. In his gilet and sensible glasses, he looks more like an accountant than a market trader, but he's serious when it comes to food. 'We're fortunate in Thessaloniki,' he says, as we taste his favourite local cheeses, which range from creamy and sweet to salty and sharp. 'Everything is on our doorstep here: fantastic seafood, fruit, vegetables, cheese. I can find everything I need within 50 miles of the city.' On Giannis's recommendation, I hike up to the old town, Ano Poli, for lunch. Thessaloniki was ravaged by fire in 1917; the city's blocky high-rises and grid-straight streets are largely a legacy of its hasty reconstruction. Ano Poli, spanning a ridge beside the city's Byzantine walls, was one of the few areas to escape the blaze. Narrow streets meander up the hillside between tenement blocks and crayon-coloured mansions. Cats stalk the pavements and laundry hangs between buildings like bunting. Lunch is at Tsinari, Ano Poli's most venerable ouzeri — a neighbourhood diner serving mezedes (small plates). It's full, but owner Lefteris Papadopoulos squeezes another table onto the overcrowded terrace, bringing out a banquet of fried peppers, courgette fritters, stuffed vine leaves, souvlaki and a Greek salad. The restaurant has been in business since the 1860s, Lefteris tells me proudly, and with its checked tablecloths, black-and-white photos and old paintings, it seems little has changed since. 'People come for a taste of the old days,' says waiter Giannis Kofidis, balancing plates with the precision of a circus juggler. 'We keep things traditional.' While I settle up, Lefteris pours me a shot of tsipouro, a fiery, aniseed-flavoured spirit, similar to ouzo. Dating back to the days of the Byzantine empire, it was first distilled by the monks of Mount Athos seven centuries ago. Provenance aside, it's potent stuff: the walk downhill feels distinctly unsteadier than I remember. As dusk melts over the Mediterranean, I wander back into the lanes around the White Tower. Diners are crammed onto pavement patios, enjoying mezze and cocktails. Stopping for a quick aperitif at Prigipessa, one of the most popular music bars in the old town, I find Duo Themis Papaminas and Giannis Tsipos playing old folk tunes on a guitar and mandolin, their audience singing along with gusto. Before long, they're linking arms and circling the bar in a traditional sirtaki dance. I join in for a toast, then detour along the seafront as the setting sun turns the sea bubblegum pink and, high above the city, swifts swirl over Ano Poli's Byzantine battlements. After dark, I join the throngs heading for Ladadika, a harbourside neighbourhood once notorious for its brothels, now the thrumming heart of Thessaloniki's nightlife. It's as chaotic as a street carnival. Buskers crank out old tunes on street corners, mopeds whine up and down alleys, chatter drifts out of doorways and bassy beats whump from backstreet clubs. There's a quieter option: a corner taverna called To Kourbeti, where I meet Lazarus Vasiliou, a private chef on luxury yachts who's recently returned to the city after years in Athens. 'Thessaloniki is changing,' he says, as he tucks into strips of honeyed pork and dakos (barley rusk topped by tomato and feta). 'The city has been in Athens' shadow for too long. Many young people are returning now. We're learning to love what we have here. And for that, I say 'yamas'!' He clinks my glass and suggests a dessert: kazan dipi, a caramelised milk pudding with crispy, burnt-sugar edges and a creamy centre. 'This is a very old dish from Byzantine times,' he says. 'Legend says it was invented by the chefs of the palaces in Constantinople [now Istanbul] a thousand years ago, and we're still eating it here today.' Like so many dishes in Thessaloniki, it's the past and the present on a plate. Published in the April 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
05-04-2025
- National Geographic
Why you should visit Thessaloniki, Greece's 'city of gastronomy'
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). The sun has just popped over Thessaloniki's jumbled rooftops but there's already a queue out the door at Bougatsa Bantis. Inside, baker Philippos Bantis is handling the morning rush, bantering with his customers, many of whom he greets by name. It doesn't take long to get through the orders, since they're all for the same thing: bougatsa, the rich, crispy, buttery filo tart that's a breakfast staple in Thessaloniki. Traditionally, it's filled with creamy vanilla custard and dusted with icing sugar, but purists prefer it sketa, with no filling. Some scoff their bougatsa outside the shop, accompanied by chocolate milk or nuclear-strength Greek coffee, but most eat it on their way to work. There's a reason for Bantis's popularity. Unlike some bakeries in the city, it still makes its filo by hand. Every morning, Philippos and his team roll, knead, stretch and throw their dough, using techniques learned from his grandfather, who founded the shop in 1969. 'Everyone has their favourite shops for bread, cheese, cakes and treats,' explains food guide Nana Zygoura, when we meet later that morning near the 15th-century White Tower, a landmark feature of Thessaloniki's waterfront. 'I still use the same ones my parents did. Traditions and relationships like that are very important here.' Dressed in a silk scarf, white shirt and oversized shades, Nana has spent most of her life in Thessaloniki, and knows the city's food scene better than most. Photographs by Oliver Berry For over 2,000 years, Thessaloniki has been a cultural and culinary crossroads. On the Mediterranean's northeastern edge, it's a natural meeting point between Europe, Africa and Asia. Since its foundation in 315 BCE, the city has been visited — and occupied — by successive empires: first Macedonians, then Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans, before becoming Greek in 1913. Caravanserais of traders, merchants, adventurers, immigrants and refugees came, bringing spices, herbs, wines and condiments from their homelands, all adding to the city's gastronomic stew. Since 2021, Thessaloniki has been a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, partly in recognition of its long epicurean history. One of the best places to experience its cosmopolitan cuisine is at a market, and Nana and I head for the oldest in the city: Kapani. Sheltered under a rickety glass roof, it feels closer to a North African souk than a Greek market, with dark lanes crammed with shops, illuminated by flickering strip lights. Crates of vegetables are stacked like Jenga blocks, filled with scarlet peppers, rose-purple aubergines and plump figs. Fishmongers holler prices for octopus, swordfish, skate and sardines, while butchers slice from carcasses suspended from meat hooks. Bakeries sell koulouria — chewy, sesame-encrusted bread rings, another popular Thessaloniki breakfast snack — and shopkeepers haggle with their clientele, filling bags with spices, nuts, olives and cheeses. It's messy, noisy and chaotic. We stop at Notis, a traditional delicatessen on the edge of the market, where I meet owner Giannis Xisis under dangling sausage strings and haunches of dried ham. In his gilet and sensible glasses, he looks more like an accountant than a market trader, but he's serious when it comes to food. 'We're fortunate in Thessaloniki,' he says, as we taste his favourite local cheeses, which range from creamy and sweet to salty and sharp. 'Everything is on our doorstep here: fantastic seafood, fruit, vegetables, cheese. I can find everything I need within 50 miles of the city.' On Giannis's recommendation, I hike up to the old town, Ano Poli, for lunch. Thessaloniki was ravaged by fire in 1917; the city's blocky high-rises and grid-straight streets are largely a legacy of its hasty reconstruction. Ano Poli, spanning a ridge beside the city's Byzantine walls, was one of the few areas to escape the blaze. Narrow streets meander up the hillside between tenement blocks and crayon-coloured mansions. Cats stalk the pavements and laundry hangs between buildings like bunting. To come to Thessaloniki means embracing Greek hospitality at local ouzerias like Tsinaris. Photograph by Oliver Berry Lunch is at Tsinari, Ano Poli's most venerable ouzeri — a neighbourhood diner serving mezedes (small plates). It's full, but owner Lefteris Papadopoulos squeezes another table onto the overcrowded terrace, bringing out a banquet of fried peppers, courgette fritters, stuffed vine leaves, souvlaki and a Greek salad. The restaurant has been in business since the 1860s, Lefteris tells me proudly, and with its checked tablecloths, black-and-white photos and old paintings, it seems little has changed since. 'People come for a taste of the old days,' says waiter Giannis Kofidis, balancing plates with the precision of a circus juggler. 'We keep things traditional.' While I settle up, Lefteris pours me a shot of tsipouro, a fiery, aniseed-flavoured spirit, similar to ouzo. Dating back to the days of the Byzantine empire, it was first distilled by the monks of Mount Athos seven centuries ago. Provenance aside, it's potent stuff: the walk downhill feels distinctly unsteadier than I remember. As dusk melts over the Mediterranean, I wander back into the lanes around the White Tower. Diners are crammed onto pavement patios, enjoying mezze and cocktails. Stopping for a quick aperitif at Prigipessa, one of the most popular music bars in the old town, I find Duo Themis Papaminas and Giannis Tsipos playing old folk tunes on a guitar and mandolin, their audience singing along with gusto. Before long, they're linking arms and circling the bar in a traditional sirtaki dance. I join in for a toast, then detour along the seafront as the setting sun turns the sea bubblegum pink and, high above the city, swifts swirl over Ano Poli's Byzantine battlements. After dark, I join the throngs heading for Ladadika, a harbourside neighbourhood once notorious for its brothels, now the thrumming heart of Thessaloniki's nightlife. It's as chaotic as a street carnival. Buskers crank out old tunes on street corners, mopeds whine up and down alleys, chatter drifts out of doorways and bassy beats whump from backstreet clubs. There's a quieter option: a corner taverna called To Kourbeti, where I meet Lazarus Vasiliou, a private chef on luxury yachts who's recently returned to the city after years in Athens. 'Thessaloniki is changing,' he says, as he tucks into strips of honeyed pork and dakos (barley rusk topped by tomato and feta). 'The city has been in Athens' shadow for too long. Many young people are returning now. We're learning to love what we have here. And for that, I say 'yamas'!' He clinks my glass and suggests a dessert: kazan dipi, a caramelised milk pudding with crispy, burnt-sugar edges and a creamy centre. 'This is a very old dish from Byzantine times,' he says. 'Legend says it was invented by the chefs of the palaces in Constantinople [now Istanbul] a thousand years ago, and we're still eating it here today.' Like so many dishes in Thessaloniki, it's the past and the present on a plate. How to do it This story was created with the support of Audley. Audley Travel offers a seven-day, tailor-made trip to Greece, including three nights in Thessaloniki, car hire, accommodation on a B&B basis, excursions and flights, from £3,230 per person. Nana Zygoura 's four-hour food tours start from £60 per person.
The Independent
02-04-2025
- The Independent
Lush landscapes: discover wildlife, wine tours and coastal wanders in Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is famous for being one of the most attractive destinations in the Mediterranean, an irresistible blend of history, beautiful beaches and cosmopolitan charm. But outside of the city's famous stone walls, there's so much more to explore in the wider area, known as the Dubrovnik Riviera. If you're looking for a slower pace of life, then the Neretva River Valley region, less than two hours from Dubrovnik, and the Pelješac Peninsula, even closer, are especially worth a trip. As well as unique, protected landscapes and incredible natural beauty, you'll also find wineries, rare wildlife, fascinating history and plenty of outdoor adventures. Natural wonders Less than a two-hour drive north of the bustling city of Dubrovnik, you'll find a very different side of Croatia – one filled with lush green landscapes, rolling mountains and vast wetlands. The Neretva Valley takes its name from the river which flows through it, emptying out into the Adriatic Sea. At its end, the river becomes a delta, with a network of reed beds, canals, lakes, wet meadows, lagoons, sandbanks and saltmarshes. These ecosystems are home to an immense range of wildlife, including hundreds of species of birds, many of them rare. You can explore the waterways on a guided boat trip or, if you're feeling more adventurous, by kayak. Or take in the area's natural beauty and winding roads by bicycle. The land in the Neretva Valley is incredibly fertile, and you'll find acres of olive groves and fruit orchards, with roadside stalls selling delicious, fresh produce. Baćina Lakes – seven connected freshwater lakes surrounded by dramatic mountains – also offer incredible walking and cycling routes, as well as secret swimming spots in hidden turquoise lagoons. A rich heritage Besides being a nature lover's paradise, the Neretva Valley is also a great destination for history buffs and culture vultures. From the Illyrians (the first tribe to inhabit the region) to the many empires that subsequently ruled it, including the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans, you'll find imprints of its fascinating past all over. In the mid-1990s, Croatian archeologists discovered the remains of a 1st century Roman temple in the village of Vid. In an inspired move, the Narona Archaeological Museum was built to cover the site of the excavations and allow visitors to see the findings, which include impressive marble statues and dazzling mosaics. Elsewhere, the Tower of Norin, built next to the Neretva river in the 16th century by the Ottomans to defend against Venetian ships, is a lasting reminder of this region's military importance — something that can be easy to forget, so peaceful is the area today. Stunning coastline It's no secret that Croatia has some exquisite beaches, and in the Pelješac Peninsula – a long, narrow strip of land that juts out into the Adriatic Sea – you'll find plenty of them, from sweeping stretches of sand to small pebble coves, all surrounded by crystal clear turquoise waters. This region of Croatia, around 30 miles north of Dubrovnik, offers a more relaxed pace of life, and is ideal for those wanting to escape the crowds while still enjoying the stunning coastline the country is famous for. Trstenica, in Orebic, is one of the most well-known and family friendly beaches, while Prapratno, close to the town of Ston and backed by olive groves and pine trees, offers blissful seclusion. Those who prefer something more active than lazing on a sun lounger should head to Viganj, on the west of the peninsula, where the windy conditions make it a popular spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Vucine beach, near Žuljana, is a great spot for snorkelling and scuba diving. While Divna beach, located 10 km from Trpanj, is renowned as one of the most exquisite in the region. Divna translates to 'beautiful' in Croatian, and with its fine white sands and turquoise waters, it's certainly well-named. Wonderful wines As well as stunning stretches of coastline and charming towns, the Pelješac Peninsula is famous for its vineyards, with a winemaking tradition that goes back centuries. The rocky soil, warm climate and proximity to the Adriatic Sea makes the area ideal for grape growing. It is home to two protected wine regions, Dingač and Postup – both renowned for producing robust, full-bodied reds from the country's most dominant grape variety, Plavac Mali – but you'll find wines to suit every palette. Many wineries are small, family operated businesses that sell their produce onsite, whereas larger vineyards have dedicated visitor centres that offer tastings and tours. The Pelješac Peninsula is also famous for its oysters, with the village of Mali Ston thought to produce some of the world's best. Some tours combine visiting wineries with oyster farms. Freshly shucked oysters and some delicious locally produced wine, all enjoyed in an idyllic setting? Sounds like a pretty perfect holiday to us.
The Independent
02-04-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
The Pearl of the Adriatic: From cuisine and culture to nature and history, discover Dubrovnik
There are few places more magnificent than Dubrovnik; its combination of breathtaking beauty, rich, storied history, and well-preserved medieval architecture has long drawn curious travellers, as well as location scouts who have immortalised its allure in films and television series from The Last Jedi to Game of Thrones. Set aside the glittering Adriatic Sea, this stunning UNESCO city is truly the product of its past; it's been ruled by the Greeks, the Byzantines, the Republic of Venice, and the French and Austrian Empires, and what you'll find here today is a mix of majestic architecture from all these eras, from its medieval walls, to its Baroque cathedrals and churches. There's nothing quite like taking a stroll down the Stradun, the city's spectacular main street, paved with polished limestone slabs. Here, you can marvel at landmarks such as the Pile and Ploče Gates at each end, both the large and small Onofrio Fountains, and the striking bell towers which loom over the landscape. City highlights Another unmissable experience is to walk Dubrovnik's wonderful City Walls; as you meander along their ancient stone steps, you'll pass turrets and forts, and even a couple of secret, hole-in-the-wall cafe bars. It's well worth stopping at one of them to take in the incredible panoramic views over the city's distinctive, terracotta-tiled rooftops, and out across the sea to the tiny nearby island of Lokrum. Take a short boat trip here for its lush botanical garden, paraded by vocal peacocks, a saltwater lake, and a Game of Thrones exhibition, complete with the actual Iron Throne. Another fascinating sight is Lovrijenac fortress, which sits just outside the western wall on a promontory overhanging the Adriatic. It also used to serve as a theatre, and plays are still performed at this dramatic location today. More must-sees include the 14th century Rector's Palace, a stunning Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance construction which was once an official government building. Nearby, is the equally elaborate Sponza Palace, a former customs house designed in Venetian style, which has also been used as a mint, treasury, armoury and bank. For a fun taste of daily life, head to Gundulićeva Poljana, a buzzy open-air market in a small square close to the Rector's Palace, where you can find all sorts of souvenirs, crafts and local produce. This area is also brimming with restaurants, offering tantalising traditional Croatian dishes such as brudet – a delicious fish stew, black risotto – a rice dish coloured with cuttlefish ink and made with fresh shellfish, there's also zelena menestra – a hearty mix of cabbage, meat and potatoes, and octopus peka, slow-cooked under a metal dome. Exploring further afield If all this has whetted your appetite for adventure, head twenty minutes south to Župa Dubrovačka, an area of outstanding natural beauty. There's a variety of stunning beaches, from sandy family-friendly options like Kupari and Plat to secluded coves, perfect for swimming and sunbathing. Offering crystal-clear water and scenic promenades, most of them feel more relaxed and less busy than those close to Dubrovnik. You can also indulge in a wide range of watersports such as snorkelling, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Elsewhere, explore tiny but traditional villages, which have kept their heritage – you might even spot locals wearing their charming folk costumes. And don't forget to stop by an authentic konoba, these family-run taverns are known for fantastic regional food and wine; brave a shot or two of rakija, the local brandy, if you dare! Finally, head to Konavle, positioned at the very south of the evocatively-named Dubrovnik Riviera. A picturesque region informally known as 'Dubrovnik's countryside', it's comprised of forest-carpeted mountains and lush, green valleys where you'll find charming rural architecture, ancient traditions and crafts, plus olive groves and vineyards. Make a beeline for Cavtat, a captivating coastal town with a handsome boardwalk, a handful of churches and museums, and excellent seafood restaurants. For compelling views, walk up to the Sokol Fortress, perched on a 25m high crag over the Konavle valley, or explore the rugged terrain on a hike, by bike, or even on horseback. And don't miss the chance to try the local wines, particularly Maraština, a full-bodied white, and Plavac Mali, a rich, flavourful red. Now, toast your visit to all these beautiful parts of the Dubrovnik Riviera!
