3 days ago
Delhi's Tres unveils first tasting menu after over a decade
After over a decade of staying true to its ingredient-forward ethos, Tres in Delhi's Lodhi Colony has introduced its first-ever tasting menu — a seven-course curation that celebrates its signature creations and seasonal inspirations, paired with fine wines and bespoke cocktails.
'It took us a little while,' admits chef and co-founder Jatin Mallick. 'We've been talking about the idea for years, but between moving locations, Covid, and the pace of service, it never felt like the right moment. Now, after completing a decade, we wanted to bring together the best of Tres in one immersive journey.'
Crafted by Jatin and Chef Julia Carmen Desa, the menu titled The Best of Tres is both a reflection and an evolution. It blends dishes that have stayed in guests' memories with new creations inspired by seasonal produce and global culinary philosophies.
Since its inception, seasonal produce has been at the very core of Tres. Summer ushers in light, cooling notes of gourds, cucumbers, delicate herbs, mangoes, and stone fruits. Winter lends a deeper character with pumpkins, root vegetables, heirloom carrots, beets, and indigenous greens such as bathua and sarson.
Every dish is thought of in terms of how it will feel in the body at that time of year. 'With climate change, we've simplified our approach to two seasons–summer and winter,' Jatin explains. 'We adapt sauces, textures, and proteins to match.'
A menu with memory
The seven-course progression opens with a choice of pan-seared scallops with raw mango, green olives, and quinoa crumble, or stuffed morel in butternut squash with white truffle oil, paired with the effervescence of Italian wine Ca' del Doge Prosecco DOC Spumante. Playful contrasts follow in the form of chicken liver ice cream with shallot tart tatin and walnut-apple dressing, or a vibrant avocado-mango composition with rice paper crisp.
Goat cheese bavaroise is lifted by a fragrant Crimson Rose gin cocktail, while mains range from mustard-crusted seabass with miso-lemon emulsion to grilled asparagus with caramelised chilli yoghurt. For richer flavours, there is lamb shoulder pavé with grilled bok choy, kale ricotta cappelletti, or grilled Spanish pork belly glazed with caramelised chilli.
For the finale, diners may choose between a dark chocolate ganache brightened with passion fruit sorbet, or Happiness in a Glass — a playful composition of cherries and plums, strawberry cream, crème Chantilly, almond sponge, strawberry caviar, and a warm spiced red wine strawberry reduction. Each dessert finds its perfect match in Otto's Athens vermouth.
Sticking to their guns
Tres's identity has been shaped by an uncompromising philosophy. 'A lot of people start with intent and lose steam midway. We didn't,' says Jatin. 'We wanted to show that Indian ingredients, done right, can create food that stands on a global stage.'
When Tres opened in 2012, diners were used to richer, spiced European fare. 'People would compare our food to what they'd had elsewhere and wonder why it didn't taste the same,' recalls Jatin. 'We stuck to our guns. If you serve the right food consistently, people will come around.' With travel, social media, and global exposure, expectations have shifted. 'Now, diners seek experiences. They want to understand the reason behind a dish,' he adds
Some techniques, however, remain unchanged: daily stock pots simmering in the kitchen, six different mother stocks forming the base for sauces, and an old-school French approach to layering flavour. 'A good sauce can elevate an average meat,' says Jatin. 'A bad one can't save it. That's why we build them from scratch every single day, adjusting for the season's mood.'
That same philosophy extends to the cocktail programme at Tres, where in-house syrups, bitters, and shrubs are paired with seasonal fruits and spices. Signatures include the bold Timur Gin Sour with its earthy, citrus-forward kick, Freak Like Me with roasted red bell pepper and basil, and the Delhi 75 — a riff on the classic French 75 cocktail, brightened with house-made vanilla bean and rose. Summer favourites like the Jamun and Phalsa Margarita or the tropical Mellow Guava capture the season's abundance.
But a lot has changed since Tres first opened its doors. A decade on, competition is fiercer and tastes have broadened. Is Tres still relevant today? In my opinion, the balance between staying true to seasonality while continuing to experiment with new forms of expression is what makes it work. The price point, though, remains on the steeper side — especially for diners looking to initiate themselves into this world.
Then again, Tres has never positioned itself as an easy entry point. Its timeless techniques anchor the kitchen, even as the menu refuses to stay static. The Best of Tres tasting menu feels less like a culmination and more like a chapter in progress — an evolving narrative that honours the past while embracing what is next.
Tres is at 23, Block 13, Lodhi Colony, New tasting menu is priced at ₹5,000-plus taxes and pairing with drinks is at ₹10,000-plus taxes. Available from Monday to Sunday between 7 pm and 9 pm. For reservations, call +91 8448699586
