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Why this perpetually busy restaurant is one of Sydney's most meaningful dining experiences
Why this perpetually busy restaurant is one of Sydney's most meaningful dining experiences

Sydney Morning Herald

time21-07-2025

  • General
  • Sydney Morning Herald

Why this perpetually busy restaurant is one of Sydney's most meaningful dining experiences

Instead, have a devilled egg, inspired by Petanen's time cooking alongside O Tama Carey at her Darlinghurst restaurant, Lankan Filling Station. The 'devil' bit is a mix of coriander, chilli, salt, pepper and turmeric, all toasted until close to burnt, then whipped with egg yolks and caramelised butter. Garnishing it with trout roe feels like some sort of egg-on-egg Finnish in-joke. I'm into it. The chef and his team have been running this iteration of Cafe Paci on the south end of King Street for the past six years. Good Food gave it a full-page review and one hat when it opened, but the restaurant has evolved and matured since 2019. You might also recall the original Cafe Paci in Darlinghurst, built on the remains of late-night Mexican party bar Cafe Pacifico. It was unapologetically itself, from the entirely grey fitout (the walls, floors, tables and chairs were all painted Taubman's Iron Age) to the groundbreaking menu. A few iterations from that original carte are still available today. Try a soft rye taco, filled with thinly sliced ox tongue, char-grilled until the meat is almost candied around the edges, and finished with chopped egg and a sauerkraut that can only be described as delicate. (If that's a word you can use to describe fermented cabbage.)

Why this perpetually busy restaurant is one of Sydney's most meaningful dining experiences
Why this perpetually busy restaurant is one of Sydney's most meaningful dining experiences

The Age

time21-07-2025

  • General
  • The Age

Why this perpetually busy restaurant is one of Sydney's most meaningful dining experiences

Instead, have a devilled egg, inspired by Petanen's time cooking alongside O Tama Carey at her Darlinghurst restaurant, Lankan Filling Station. The 'devil' bit is a mix of coriander, chilli, salt, pepper and turmeric, all toasted until close to burnt, then whipped with egg yolks and caramelised butter. Garnishing it with trout roe feels like some sort of egg-on-egg Finnish in-joke. I'm into it. The chef and his team have been running this iteration of Cafe Paci on the south end of King Street for the past six years. Good Food gave it a full-page review and one hat when it opened, but the restaurant has evolved and matured since 2019. You might also recall the original Cafe Paci in Darlinghurst, built on the remains of late-night Mexican party bar Cafe Pacifico. It was unapologetically itself, from the entirely grey fitout (the walls, floors, tables and chairs were all painted Taubman's Iron Age) to the groundbreaking menu. A few iterations from that original carte are still available today. Try a soft rye taco, filled with thinly sliced ox tongue, char-grilled until the meat is almost candied around the edges, and finished with chopped egg and a sauerkraut that can only be described as delicate. (If that's a word you can use to describe fermented cabbage.)

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