4 days ago
The campervan trip to Spain's least visited region that finally turned me into a grown up
I HAVE the palate of a schoolchild. Before embarking on any trip, I often load a supermarket trolley with Monster Munch and a Fray Bentos pie-in-a-tin.
So how exactly did I end up sipping silky reds and nibbling padrón pinchos on a charming cobbled street this summer?
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I had travelled through northern Spain, in a Bailey motorhome, to the Rioja region which, unbeknown to me, would soon shake up my tastebuds.
Parking up at Camping de Haro, a leafy campsite in the heart of La Rioja (Spain's famous wine country), meant I had hearty cuisine right at my fingertips.
From here, it's just a ten-minute stroll into Haro, a pretty town surrounded by vineyards and packed with wine bars, restaurants and ancient wineries.
A recent report from the Spanish tourist board revealed that Rioja is one of the least-visited regions in the country.
That meant fewer crowds and therefore more time to scrutinise the menus.
And I can say with certainty that the menus here are nothing short of impressive.
I had visited the bars on Haro's lively main square with one simple mission: to try proper food.
Not pot noodles, not tinned ravioli – real local fare.
Of course, tapas is well-known across the country, but in northern Spain, they serve pinchos.
The name comes from 'pinchar', meaning 'to poke' or 'to skewer', which explains why each of the snacks I devoured at various bars had been neatly stacked on bread and skewered with a toothpick.
They're keenly priced and ridiculously tasty.
I started my food crawl safely with Spanish tortilla (or omelette, as it's sometimes known), followed by serrano ham, until I got braver.
It turns out that Lomo ibérico, a type of ham made from cured pork loin, is a gateway food to another culinary dimension as by the time the night was over I had eaten my way through all manner of bizarre foods, even pig's ear pinchos.
Not something my under-educated palate had considered before, but it was a surprisingly tasty way to broaden my dietary horizons.
Each bar had its own twist on the traditional pincho, making it easy to sample a variety of small tasters.
It's customary to order a glass of wine and a pincho or two, then move on to the next bar – and by the third stop, I was a convert.
Although savoury pinchos are the most popular, a dessert alternative is available to round off the evening.
Pudding on a stick? Genius.
The next morning, with a clear head and a mild cheese regret, I took a tour of Gómez Cruzado, one of Haro's oldest wineries.
Being largely a lager-only lad until this trip, here's where the grown-up wine lessons began for me. I learned about grape varieties, the use of different oak barrels, and how to properly assess a Rioja's aroma and evaluate its legs with a degree of confidence.
The tasting was top-notch, and my host tailored the description of each wine to suit my inexperience.
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Over a couple of hours, I sampled smooth whites and rich reds with names I couldn't pronounce but wanted more of.
I picked up a bottle to take back to the campsite, along with some proper deli treats, and ditched the Fray Bentos for the night.
Back at the motorhome, uncorking my new favourite wine and laying out some local cheese and ham, I watched the sun dip behind the stunning scenery that surrounds the campsite.
It turns out you can still enjoy the great outdoors, but without the canned custard and tastes of home.
If you're looking for a trip that's a bit off the beaten track, Rioja's a winner
And if you're looking for a trip that's a bit off the beaten track, Rioja's a winner.
Gorgeous scenery, friendly locals, and incredible food and wine.
I came here to shake up my comfort zone and ended up discovering a whole new side to travel, and to myself.
The Fray Bentos? Still tucked in the back of the van. But for once, it stayed unopened.
'Travel broadens the mind' is a well-worn phrase, but I can now confirm it broadens the palate, too.
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