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Yahoo
11-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Adeam Fall 2025: Suiting Up With Japanese Nuance
Adeam designer Hanako Maeda chose to sit out the New York runways this season but her collection riffed on a big theme of the New York shows: women's empowerment through dress. 'It's 2025, so you think that we're past this moment of empowering women and all of these like prejudices,' she said via a Zoom call from her native Japan. I wouldn't say that society is like going back. But I really wanted to focus on this idea of iconic women and the idea of empowering women has been expressed through fashion.' Suiting was a big part of her collection but done with her Japanese sensibility. 'A power suit is something that's very iconic,' she said. Organza ruffles at the neckline of a gray blazer turned into a dress, twisting around the body, while other suiting was more classic but with double lapels and leather harness accents. Mannish shirting in pinstripes with oversize cuffs was twisted at the neckline to expose the collar bone. On the more feminine side, there were fuller skirts with small jackets that made a suit that exposed the midriff, or an oversize bow blouse over an A-line skirt. Overall, it was a play on masculine versus feminine with touches of toughness via leather accessories, like a great pair of fishing style boots, done chic. More from WWD Melke's Collaboration With Hidden Valley Ranch Takes Inspiration From Groovy Retro Prints New York Men's Day Showcases Emerging and Established Designers Kesha Was a Sweet Surprise at YSL Beauty's Candy Club Party At her secondary line ICHI she further explored office wear through the lens of Tokyo street style meets Americana '90s prep. The lineup included tailored trousers with adjustable tab hems and sweaters with contrast-color embroidery, while a reversible jacket offered versatility, with a puff side and a more polished work jacket on the other. You could top it off with a waterproof trenchcoat. Maeda may take you to work, but in unexpected silhouettes and ideas. Launch Gallery: Adeam Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
11-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Tory Burch Fall 2025: Do a Double Take
Tory Burch is racking up quite the roster of New York City landmarks as runway show venues. Her latest was the Museum of Modern Art, where she showed her fall 2025 collection Monday night across two floors of the lobby atrium, with wintry views of the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Sculpture Garden. More from WWD Melke's Collaboration With Hidden Valley Ranch Takes Inspiration From Groovy Retro Prints New York Men's Day Showcases Emerging and Established Designers Kesha Was a Sweet Surprise at YSL Beauty's Candy Club Party 'It's such an iconic place,' Burch said of the striking setting, which joins the Brooklyn Museum, the Whitney Museum, the Gilder Center, Mercer Street and more on the grand Tory tour. On the runway, the brand continued to execute on its design transformation with another collection that twisted American classics with an uptown-meets-downtown spirit and unexpected color combos. She dug into sportswear, elevating sweats to chic in brushed Japanese jersey or velour with zippered cuffs over monk strap shoes, and refined zip fleece in needle punched wool. Knitted mesh — like you'd find on an athletic jersey — was twisted into a great-looking, spiral-cut polo dress in a 'Bambi' animal spot pattern, and a puffer made into a city-sophisticated jacket in a featherweight nylon with a body-contoured silhouette and shiny finish. Functionality has been a pre-occupation for Burch, who has made it a practice over the last few seasons to create pieces that prompt a double take, in a good way, and encourage experimentation. So knits were embroidered to look like tweed, and outerwear richly textured with sequins or silky filaments for that one offbeat wardrobe hero. Classic tweed dresses and twin sets were slashed, so they could be worn with the sleeves long, tied or pinned at the neck. And banker stripe shirts flared at the cuff with extra rows of buttons so they could be twisted and cinched tight. And in addition to 'Bambi,' she introduced a new animal to her brand menagerie, a tonal mouse jacquard on a draped dress. Over the last few seasons Burch has established jersey dresses as a specialty, and they've gone from futuristic with orbital hoop skirts, to balletic bubble silhouettes. This time, they were old Hollywood goddess glam, with padded shoulders, draped backs and skirts. To her growing accessories categories, she added a new Pierce watch, watch band bracelets and cuffs with ring chains attached. Those are modeled after a mega gold and sapphire piece Burch wears herself, dating back to 1870. It has quite a provenance that leads from Napoleon's wife Empress Eugenie to the dentist who helped spirit her out of France to safety, to the University of Pennsylvania, Burch's alma mater. 'I'm dying to do fine jewelry,' the designer said, the wheels already turning. You know she will. Launch Gallery: Tory Burch Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Yahoo
08-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Christian Cowan Fall 2025: Embarking on a Refresh
Christian Cowan is embarking on what he described as a 'big refresh' for fall 2025, opting to create a collection that centered on his creative expression rather than making styles for sale. 'As you develop your career as a designer, you get lots of opinions and advice whether you ask for it or not,' Cowan said. 'You get that within creative stuff and business as well and obviously we want to grow the brand. I'm really glad we were promoting sales-worthy party dresses, which I love doing, but I don't know whether they need to have a place in my show. I think that can exist within the brand and on e-commerce and our retailers, but our runway doesn't have to be what we sell.' More from WWD Celebrities Front Row at Christian Cowan Fall 2025: Sam Smith, Kesha, Cole Escola and More New York Men's Day Showcases Emerging and Established Designers Kesha Was a Sweet Surprise at YSL Beauty's Candy Club Party The designer stayed true to his campy, theatrical design codes for the collection, stating he wanted to bring a childlike spirit to the runway. He created several 'gum dresses,' which he made from silicone molds made to look like chewing gum splattered all over dresses, and several dresses embellished with high heels hanging off the skirts. While the looks were kitschy, they exuded Cowan's signature playfulness and whimsicality. The collection was also an homage to his late friend and investor Abbie McLaughlin. 'I love the spirit of this because [McLaughlin] was such a wildly creative person and so fun,' Cowan said. 'I think a lot of the spirit of this collection is taking from that childish creative spirit that she had, but it's this idea of being a child at home and you're playing with things and creating things and we've kind of taken that idea, but made it in a really amazing way.' Many styles leaned into craft and creativity, but Cowan still delivered new takes on his signature partywear, such as polka-dot corseted dresses with a peekaboo bra, a minidress made out of labels and a lingerie-style maxidress. The craft was balanced with thoughtful construction, especially through the manipulation of feathers. There were feather-embellished dresses with the material used to resemble swipes of lipstick, an ornate feather headpiece that wrapped around the model and dresses with feathers transformed into paillettes. Cowan's fall 2025 collection reflected the designer's playful spirit and camp roots, while showing a new, craft-like direction that will be exciting to see play out in coming seasons. Launch Gallery: Christian Cowan Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway