Adeam Fall 2025: Suiting Up With Japanese Nuance
Adeam designer Hanako Maeda chose to sit out the New York runways this season but her collection riffed on a big theme of the New York shows: women's empowerment through dress. 'It's 2025, so you think that we're past this moment of empowering women and all of these like prejudices,' she said via a Zoom call from her native Japan. I wouldn't say that society is like going back. But I really wanted to focus on this idea of iconic women and the idea of empowering women has been expressed through fashion.'
Suiting was a big part of her collection but done with her Japanese sensibility. 'A power suit is something that's very iconic,' she said. Organza ruffles at the neckline of a gray blazer turned into a dress, twisting around the body, while other suiting was more classic but with double lapels and leather harness accents. Mannish shirting in pinstripes with oversize cuffs was twisted at the neckline to expose the collar bone. On the more feminine side, there were fuller skirts with small jackets that made a suit that exposed the midriff, or an oversize bow blouse over an A-line skirt. Overall, it was a play on masculine versus feminine with touches of toughness via leather accessories, like a great pair of fishing style boots, done chic.
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At her secondary line ICHI she further explored office wear through the lens of Tokyo street style meets Americana '90s prep. The lineup included tailored trousers with adjustable tab hems and sweaters with contrast-color embroidery, while a reversible jacket offered versatility, with a puff side and a more polished work jacket on the other. You could top it off with a waterproof trenchcoat. Maeda may take you to work, but in unexpected silhouettes and ideas.
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