Latest news with #Carménère
Forbes
31-07-2025
- General
- Forbes
Exciting Wine Made From Some Of The Oldest Carmenere Vines In Chile
Initially, it was observed that the shoot tips of the young leaves were atypical, being too orange. Then the shape of the leaves was utterly wrong, leading him to announce to his former student that the new plot of the Merlot grape variety that the wine producer who employed the former student had planted wasn't actually Merlot as they had intended. But knowing that it wasn't Merlot was the easy part of this equation; the real challenge was to find out what grape variety it was . Since it was the flowering phase of the growing season, he examined the flowers closely and found the answer. The stamens were twisted, unlike most other varieties, which were straight. This realization hit him like a ton of bricks: it was Carménère. Section of Carménère vines getty Despite this accidental discovery happening to the exceptionally well-respected agronomist and enologist Dr. Jean-Michel Boursiquot, who collaborated with U.C. Davis by studying the origins of several French grapes, he was not well-known to much of the wine industry. But on that day in 1994, he unintentionally carved his name into wine history by discovering that most of the Merlot that was seemingly brought over to Chile from Bordeaux, France in the 19th century was actually Carménère, a grape that virtually disappeared once the Bordeaux region started replanting after the devastating effects of phylloxera. He was in Chile for other reasons, leading a conference, and decided to visit Viña Carmen, the oldest winery in Chile, because he had a former student who worked there. Unbeknownst to him, this casual side trip had a profound impact on Chile as an emerging wine country. Santa Rita Estate Viña Santa Rita Today, only a handful of producers in Bordeaux have replanted Carménère and incorporate a small amount into their wines. Chile has made Carménère its signature grape, and there is a range of styles and terroirs from where it is sourced. There is one area that has some of the oldest Carménère vines in the world and happens to be located in Apalta, the "grand cru" of the highly esteemed Colchagua region, and the second oldest wine producer in Chile, which also owns Carmen today, stands out with two different single vineyard bottlings of Carménère from old vines: Viña Santa Rita. Carménère was the underappreciated grape among its Bordeaux siblings, as it is an even later ripener than Cabernet Sauvignon, and so it needs a growing season that stays warm for an extended period. It was an obvious choice to avoid replanting it after the devastation of phylloxera, and then it ended up in bundles of Merlot vines when brought to Chile in the mid-1800s. Although such a massive mistake with thousands of Carménère vines unintentionally planted across the wine regions of Chile seems like an infuriating tragedy, especially for an initially struggling wine country trying to gain respect from the rest of the world, it has become an exciting signature grape for the country, which has adopted it as one of its local grapes. Sebastián Labbé Viña Santa Rita But since its discovery in 1994, the journey to earning the recognition it deserved was a very bumpy one. It became known as a wine that was too herbaceous when picked early to retain freshness or too heavy and lackluster when picked later to avoid the intense herbaceous quality. Viña Santa Rita winemaker Sebastián Labbé said that he has been obsessed with finding that ideal balance with Carménère. His obsession lies in the vineyards, where he spends most of his time. He was able to showcase the beautiful fruit character while also illustrating a strong sense of place from a single vineyard. Sebastián was born in Chile but received his education in New Zealand, where he worked at top wineries, and later in Australia. He started working at Viña Carmen in 2005 as head winemaker until 2017, and then he was brought to Viña Santa Rita, where he is a winemaker for their ultra-premium wines. Upon arriving at Viña Santa Rita, one of his objectives was to preserve the purity and freshness of their Carménère wines, while discovering the perfect level of ripeness that yields an irresistible, vibrant juiciness in their single-vineyard wines, which feature 90-year-old vines. Sebastián may be fiercely vigilant about being hands-on in the vineyards, but he is extremely hands-off in the winery, and his vigilance with the vines makes that possible. A Real Home Landscape of Santa Rita Viña Santa Rita Now the biggest challenge for Sebastián is to keep his two old vine, single vineyard Carménère wines from selling out too fast, "Floresta" and "Pewën de Apalta," as one was ranked 35th in the prestigious Wine Enthusiast's 'The Best Wines of 2024' list and the other was named the Best in Chile and Best Apalta in the esteemed Descorchados South American wine guides in 2023, respectively. Today, Carménère is considered a local grape of Chile even though it is not indigenous, yet there is a case to be made that Chile is its true home. While it's generally better to seek out the birthplace of something and try it there, there are always exceptions, just as a person who doesn't fit into his birthplace must flee to a distant location to thrive, be appreciated and form a mutually beneficial relationship with their new home. The same is true for Carménère, as it requires a longer, warmer growing season than Bordeaux has historically provided, and it does well in hot, dry conditions. Perhaps it is best to try something in a place where it shows its best attributes, which is why Carménère will always be considered a wine that expresses the soul of Chile. Santa Rita Floresta lineup of wines Cathrine Todd The two Carménère wines below are both from the "grand cru" area of Apalta, they are both dry-farmed single vineyards, and they are both 100% Carménère. Yet the "Floresta" is a fresher style ultra-premium wine, as opposed to the richer yet still fresh "Pewën de Apalta," the top-of-the-line Carménère from Santa Rita. 2022 Santa Rita "Floresta" Carménère, Apalta, Chile: 100% Carménère from a single vineyard with 90-year-old vines that are dry-farmed. Charming supple tannins with an overall vibrancy, with raspberry tart flavors intermixed with black tea and dried flowers, that is filled with juicy fruit and a strong backbone of minerality. Simply irresistible. Santa Rita Pewën de Apalta Carménère Cathrine Todd 2022 Santa Rita "Pewën de Apalta" Carménère, Apalta, Chile: 100% Carménère from a single vineyard with vines planted in 1938 in the Apalta foothills with weathered granite soils. A deeper, more concentrated and fuller-bodied wine then their Floresta bottling and Pewën de Apalta is their top-of-the-line Carménère. Multilayered nose of cigar box, red cherries, pulverized granite and cinnamon stick with velvety texture and blackberry liqueur flavors intertwined with espresso and black truffle with lots of fresh acidity along the luxuriously textured finish that is lively as well as rich. Both Carménère wines are 100% varietal, which is not typical, as many winemakers blend other varieties to achieve balance. Yet Sebastián Labbé can find the balance in the vineyard. The Floresta range from Santa Rita has a greater emphasis on the brightness and clarity of the grape variety, with a focus on complete transparency. Santa Rita Floresta Chardonnay Cathrine Todd 2022 Santa Rita "Floresta" Chardonnay, Limarí Valley, Chile: 100% Chardonnay from a single vineyard. Limarí is a special place in Chile with a desert climate influenced by maritime factors, with calcium carbonate deposits on clay topsoil for this Chardonnay. A wine that evokes the ocean with aromas of sea spray and oyster shells, with crisp acidity, ripe peaches balanced by marked acidity and lots of tension in the wine. 2021 Santa Rita "Floresta" Cabernet Franc, Alto Jahuel, Maipo Valley, Chile: 100% Cabernet Franc from a single vineyard. Alto Jahuel is located in the upper part of the Maipo Valley, along the edge of the Andes Mountains, and benefits from a cooler climate at higher altitudes. However, some sections are cooler than others. This Cabernet Franc has an outstanding balance between the right amount of delectable fruit, with a remarkable vitality, a thrilling nose of violets, warm raspberries and tree bark with a chalky minerality, and a hint of forest floor that is all wrapped together with fine tannins. 2022 Santa Rita "Floresta" Cabernet Sauvignon, Alto Jahuel, Maipo, Chile: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a single vineyard. Maipo first found its fame with great Cabernet Sauvignon, powerful wines, yet this Floresta illustrates the fresher style with finesse. The aromas of this wine dance and prance with agility and grace, reminiscent of a flower bouquet. The blackcurrant sorbet, with star anise crumbled on top, has an elegant texture to the tannins, with a slight structure that gives shape and lift. Santa Rita Triple C Estate Bottling Cathrine Todd 2021 Santa Rita "Triple C" Estate Bottling, Maipo Valley, Chile: 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Cabernet Franc and 8% Carménère. This wine blends the three Cs from two different vineyards, where Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are planted together. Deeply concentrated wine that is lush yet nimble, offering the deliciousness of decadent fruit such as cassis and black cherry cobbler, complemented by round tannins and a long finish that leaves aromas of crushed rocks and pressed lilacs lingering in the head. Santa Rita Casa Real Cathrine Todd 2020 Santa Rita "Casa Real" Alto Jahuel, Maipo, Chile: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the legendary Carneros Viejo Vineyard. Santa Rita's Casa Real was the first iconic wine of Alto Jahuel in Maipo. A real sophistication to the structure of this wine that has big, broad shoulders that are finely chiseled and seamlessly integrated into the wine with tobacco leaf and black raspberry liqueur, with added complex notes of graphite and smoldering earth, with an extraordinarily long finish that is flavorful, multifaceted and driven with precision.
Yahoo
23-07-2025
- Yahoo
How a mountaintop Chilean winery is harnessing the earth's energy to disrupt the global wine market
The origin story of Stonevik—the latest introduction from VIK Winery, a pioneering winery neighbored by its sister hotel in central Chile—is rooted some 3,000 feet above sea level, in a mountaintop forest between the Andes and the Pacific, amidst a circle of century-old oak trees. Here, in amphorae handcrafted from clay sourced from the Vik estate and half-buried in the earth, the wine ages, untouched by human hands—culminating in a literally groundbreaking blend Vik bills as 'the ultimate natural wine, crafted by nature, in nature.' Stonevik marks a new milestone in Vik's quest to become one of the world's most renowned wineries—a passion project that began in 2004 when its owners, Norwegian investor and entrepreneur Alexander Vik and his wife, Carrie, embarked on a wildly ambitious mission. 'We put together a scientific team with the objective of finding one of the best terroirs in the world, to make some of the best Bordeaux-style red wines in the world,' says Alexander Vik. That epic two-year search ultimately led to the Millahue Valley, nestled in the foothills of the Andes within the greater Cachapoal Valley, a hundred miles south of Santiago. In 2006, the Viks purchased an 11,000-acre swath of virgin wilderness there called Lugar de Oro ('Golden Place') by the area's indigenous Mapuche people—perhaps a reference to how the rose-hued horizon shimmers just above the surrounding hills at dusk. More than two decades since the seeds of the Viks' idea were first sown, this enchanting hinterland has steadily evolved into an oenophile's Xanadu, seemingly worlds away from civilization, where winemaking, art, and architecture converge with exuberant nature. The addition of Stonevik to Vik's award-winning lineup gives wine lovers another reason to visit. Vik's terroir encompasses a pristine landscape composed of 12 valleys, each with its own microclimate and distinct exposures, and all cooled by Pacific coastal breezes and winds from high in the Andes. With the expert guidance of chief winemaker Cristián Vallejo, whom the Viks hired to oversee Vik's viticulture and viniculture, a thousand acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot were planted. 'We knew that this terroir was truly exceptional,' Alexander Vik continues, 'and that if we did things correctly, we could produce wines that would enter the pantheon of the world's great wines.' The next order of business was to build a winery. In 2007, the Viks launched a global competition to tap the brightest minds in the business; renowned Chilean architect, Smiljan Radic, won with an avant-garde design that minimizes impact on the landscape and champions sustainability. The white stretched-fabric roof resembles a wing, whose translucence eschews the need for artificial light in the daytime. A sloping plaza fronts the entrance, where running water trickles toward the glass-walled building beneath a striking river rock installation, naturally cooling the cellar below. Walkways crosshatch the sprawling space, immersing visitors in a stunning tableau that is both organic and otherworldly. Inside, most of the building lies underground to maximize natural insulation and conserve energy. Rows of amber-lit barrels stacked three high flank an aisle leading to the tasting room, where an accent wall displays a mélange of gold-toned metal shards that appear to hover in midair like a grand mobile, an arresting homage to the Mapuche's moniker for the region's natural grandeur. The winery's light footprint dovetails with Vik's holistic winemaking philosophy. Guided by a steadfast commitment to environmental stewardship, Vik embraced a virtually no-intervention approach from the outset, using only native yeasts and no additives or filtration. All grapes are harvested at night, when they're at their lowest temperature, to preserve their quality and acidity. These measures (and many others) ensure the purest expression of Vik's terroir. In 2014—a year before Vik's first commercial wine, a 2010 vintage of its eponymous flagship blend, entered the market—VIK Chile opened its doors, completing Vik's metamorphosis into a world-class escape. (The Viks opened their first hotel, Estancia Vik, in Uruguay in 2009; the Vik Retreats portfolio now includes two other Uruguayan outposts and a hotel in Milan.) Perched on a hill with panoramic views of the winery, the vineyards, and the valley beyond, the luxury hotel—whose free-form bronzed titanium roof seems to undulate in the unrelenting sun—is arguably the country's most iconic getaway, and a dazzling complement to the winery. Contemporary art, the Viks' other prevailing passion, informs every inch of the hotel. The couple recruited a slew of artists to design the 22 themed suites, whose floor-to-ceiling windows frame Millahue's jaw-dropping vistas. 'Vicky Money' features a bathroom adorned with 50,000 one-euro-cent coins, while a replica of Dali's iconic Mae West 'Lips' sofa commands attention in 'Valenzuela,' a riot of color with a Mondrian-inspired floor. A central courtyard—where a Zen garden presides over a border of vibrant blooms—celebrates the natural world, and common spaces showcase unique works by artists including German painter and sculptor Anselm Kiefer and Chilean painter Roberto Matta. Puro Vik, a collection of seven stand-alone glass bungalows with themes ranging from holographic art to 18th-century France, and with bathrooms that each feature a different marble, comprise the newest accommodations. Vik's vintages join forces with elevated cuisine at Milla Milla, the hotel's glass-walled signature restaurant, where dishes like grilled red octopus with potato foam and duck magret with blueberry sauce earn raves. La Huerta, an alfresco eatery in the property's two-acre organic garden, makes an idyllic lunch spot, thanks to plates beautifully composed of 250 varieties of fruits, vegetables, herbs, and eggs, topped with edible flowers. Activities like horseback rides through the vineyards and birdwatching walks along mountain trails can be easily arranged for guests—a well-heeled, international mix of couples, families, and wine enthusiasts—while winery tours and tastings loom large in the Vik experience. Since Vik's founding, the endlessly complex, ever-evolving relationship between wine and nature has fueled its winemaking—an ongoing journey most recently manifested in Stonevik. In 2018, Vik became an entirely circular winery, meaning every element used in its production comes from the property—including its barrels, which were previously sourced from France. Winemaker Vallejo began crafting Vik's own barrels with French oak staves, toasting them with 300-year-old Chilean oak that had fallen within the reserve to integrate the terroir directly into the wood—a process he dubbed 'barroir.' In 2023, he approached the Viks with an idea to take the circular concept a step further. 'Circular wine normally means growing and harvesting grapes on your land and aging the wine in your winery, but no one had yet returned to nature to close the circle,' he recalls. 'I suggested we create a wine and take it in amphorae up to the forest, to let it be their guardian and help us age it.' Intrigued, the Viks agreed. When Vallejo happened upon the ring of oak trees—a relative anomaly in nature—during his search for the perfect location for this new venture, he felt an energy he couldn't identify. He summoned a geologist to investigate what, if anything, was happening below ground; the geologist subsequently determined that a fault line intersected with a water vein in the circle's center. That nexus created a natural electromagnetic field that generates a kind of circular pulse, which Vallejo says explains the trees' unusual growth. He then consulted a machi (a traditional healer in Mapuche culture), who identified the energy point's exact location with no knowledge of the geologist's findings; and an astronomer, who advised how best to arrange the amphorae within the circle to optimally align with the sun, moon, and stars. After a month in Vik's 'barroir' barrels, the wine—a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carménère—rests in seven amphorae in the forest enclave until December 21, the summer solstice in the Southern Hemisphere, when it is bottled and ready for sale. Annual production is limited to 800 cases, given the small capacity of its unique aging process. Stonevik joins three other flagship wines—Vik (its premier blend), Milla Cala, and La Piu Belle—in Vik's production. Its 2023 and 2024 vintages each earned 98 points from leading wine critic James Suckling—a notable achievement for a wine aged less than one year with no intervention. As for the future, Alexander Vik is optimistic. 'We're way ahead of our expected timeline for the vineyard and the winemaking,' he says. 'Each vintage is better than the prior one, as the vines become more established and more capable.' Vallejo's take befits an unlikely tale that began in an untouched, aureate wilderness, and that continues to unfold. 'I think of our wines as a book: Every glass is a chapter, every sip is a page,' he says. 'They really tell the story of this terroir. When you connect with our wines, you can follow this story, and in every glass—every sip—you feel something different.' This story was originally featured on Sign in to access your portfolio
Wall Street Journal
04-04-2025
- Business
- Wall Street Journal
South American Countries See Potential Gains for Wine, Salmon From Tariff Split
Americans are likely to swap Spanish Rioja and Norwegian salmon in favor of Chilean Carménère and Patagonian salmon as a result of differing rates in Trump's tariff plan, local producers said. Wine makers Argentina and Chile were hit with a 10% tariff in contrast to the 20% leveled against EU competitors. Norway received a 15% levy. Chile's copper and forestry exports to the U.S. are exempt from the tariff for now.
