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The Star
a day ago
- Entertainment
- The Star
Natalina Italian Kitchen serves authentic Italian delights and treasures
Ensconced on the third floor of Kuala Lumpur's Avenue K shopping mall is an Aladdin's cave of sorts for those hankering after Italian culinary treasures. At Natalina Italian Kitchen, the space is warm and inviting, with sunny yellow lemons perched on the ceiling and interspersed throughout the space. Beaming warmly as he strides purposefully throughout the eatery is Stefano La Penna, the strikingly handsome Italian chef who helms the kitchen here. La Penna hails from the southern Italian city of Abruzzo. When he was just 18, he was anointed into the world of fine-dining when he was selected to work at the three Michelin-starred Reale in Abruzzo's Castel di Sangro. 'There were 84 applicants and only 11 were selected. I was the only one with no kitchen background – everyone else had a lot of experience,' says La Penna, grinning. The eatery is warm and inviting and has an instant, easy charm. Still, there was probably something about La Penna that got him a foot in the door. He ended up staying there for three years, honing his culinary chops. Since those foundling years, he has worked all over the world, from Fukuoka, Japan to the Bahamas. When he was offered a job in Malaysia, he was actually in the midst of pursuing his masters in food and beverage management in Italy, so he was in two minds about trekking halfway across the world. 'When I came to visit KL, I was shocked. I was like 'Wow, this looks like New York!' And I love how connected the city is to food, so I just fell in love with Malaysia – the people, the place, the lifestyle,' he says. La Penna is the talented chef behind Natalina's soulful Italian fare. In September 2022, La Penna took over Natalina and since then, he has made it a point to impart his particular brand of Italian cuisine to local diners. As he is very passionate about the food of his homeland, he doesn't modify recipes to suit local tastebuds. Instead, his goal is to slowly educate Malaysian diners about the natural beauty of Italian cuisine. 'The primary focus is to provide the authentic flavours of Italy, even though we are in the opposite part of the world. And then I want to try to educate guests about the meaning behind these food traditions, so it is understandable for them,' he says. The menu rotates based on the seasons in Europe, so the current iteration offers a slew of summer hits. Beef tenderloin wrapped around tomato bread may sound like a questionable pairing, but it's actually a surprisingly good one. — ART CHEN/The Star To begin a meal here, look at indulging in the rather unusual Carpaccio Di Manzo (RM58) which features thinly sliced tenderloin wrapped around cherry tomato bread and rounded out with extra virgin oil, tuna mayo and freshly grated parmesan cheese. While bread and meat typically feel like heavier fare, this is a surprisingly light offering whose perkiness is accentuated by the tomatoes in the configuration. The meat here is silken and supine and adds contrast to what feels like a meal you're not likely to have tried anywhere else before. Breaded and deep-fried, the calamari stuffed rolls are delicious from start to finish. — ART CHEN/The Star Then there is the Crocchette Di Calamari (RM42) which is essentially breaded, deep-fried rotund balls filled with calamari and served with a garlic tomato mayonnaise. The balls are excellent – perfectly crispy on the outside and laced with sea-faring notes on the inside, buoyed by the chopped calamari in the mixture. The garlic tomato mayonnaise adds a touch of acidity to the meal and gives it a sunny disposition. Italian burrata cheese is the binding force in this light, refreshing salad. Up next, try the house-favourite Burrata (RM52). Here, imported burrata from the south of Italy is served with tomato confit (enhanced with the famed datterino Italian tomato) and wild rocket salad in what proves to be a tangy, Mediterranean hit anchored by the burrata, which is silken smooth, stretchy and incredibly fresh. From the pasta selections, opt for the Gricia Al Tartufo (RM78) or handmade fettucine in a cheese sauce, with duck bacon pasta and freshly shaved black truffles rounding out this assemblage. The highlight of the sauce is the fact that it is strung together using only cheese (parmesan) and water – no cream is utilised at all. The handmade fettucine is enhanced with a cheese sauce and freshly shaved black Italian truffles. The result is sensational – the pasta itself is cooked to al dente perfection and retains a strong, firm bite. The sauce meanwhile is thick and incredibly hedonistic and this is elevated even further by the opulence of the truffles. Then there is the Chitarrina Al Frutti Di Mare (RM88). Chitarra is hand-made pasta that is cut using a pasta cutter (also called chitarra) with wires stretched across a wooden frame, one that resembles a guitar. (Chitarra means guitar in Italian.) The chitarra spaghetti dish harnesses the richness of the sea and serves it up on a plate. In this dish, the pasta is served with clams, prawns and Boston lobster tail and finished with tuna bottarga and lemon zest. Scattered atop is dehydrated black olives. The entire dish is intense in that it that has been stitched together in order to hold a rich tapestry of oceanic flavours. As a result, the in-your-face aquatic notes may come off a little bolder and brinier than you might be used to, but it's also unapologetically underwater-themed down to the tiniest detail. The wagyu striploin has been cooked in a Josper oven and retains tender, juicy meat. — Photos: ART CHEN/The Star For something from the main meal family, go down a carnivorous path with the Tagliata Di Manzo (RM85 per 100g), which showcases wagyu striploin, served with charred broccolini and truffle sauce. The beef has been cooked in a Josper oven and retains a slight crust on the skin that yields to meat that still has a pink, tender heart and succulence coursing through its veins. The truffle sauce is a rich, nirvanic addition that adds a palatial touch to this caveman course. Luscious, creamy and coffee-tinged, the tiramisu is a sure-fire hit. End your meal on a high note with the all-star charms of the Tiramisu (RM45) – a rich, creamy, coffee-laden treat with a sponge centre and an irreverent, unpretentious charm. Guided by La Penna's able hand, a meal at Natalina takes diners on a vicarious journey through far-flung cities in Italy without losing the soul and essence of the country's culinary comforts. This is a feat that is by no means easy to accomplish when you're halfway across the world, and yet La Penna seems to have nailed it down to a science. Natalina Italian Kitchen Address: Level 3, Avenue K Shopping Mall, 156 Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur Tel: 012-673 3860 Open daily: Noon to 10pm
Khaleej Times
14-02-2025
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
Restaurant Review: Ciao Bella offers a taste of Italy in the heart of Dubai
Step into Ciao Bella at Media One Hotel, and you're instantly transported to a cozy Italian eatery where simple ingredients shine. With a menu that covers everything from classic antipasti to indulgent desserts, this spot is perfect for a casual lunch, a relaxed dinner, or just an espresso break in between meetings. Antipasti – A Strong Start Carpaccio Di Manzo – Thinly sliced tenderloin, paired with grated pecorino, pickled red onions, and a sharp mustard sauce, made for a well-balanced, melt-in-your-mouth experience. The rocket leaves added a fresh peppery bite, elevating the dish. Bolognese Arancini – Crispy on the outside, gooey mozzarella on the inside, and coated in a rich basil tomato sauce, these were comfort bites done right. Perfect for sharing, but you might not want to. Primi & Secondi – The Heart of the Meal Trofie al Ragu di Manzo – A rustic, homey dish with a slow-cooked beef ragu that clung to the trofie pasta perfectly. The parmesan and basil tied it all together, while the green beans added an unexpected but welcome crunch. Pollo Alla Griglia – Herb-marinated baby chicken with a creamy wild mushroom sauce? A classic that doesn't disappoint. Juicy, well-seasoned, and rich in flavor, this one's a safe yet satisfying pick. Dolci – Ending on a Sweet Note Vulcano Di Cioccolato – A classic molten chocolate lava cake, paired with vanilla ice cream. It's indulgent, comforting, and always a crowd-pleaser. Gelato & Tiramisu – You can't go wrong with either. The pistachio gelato was particularly rich and nutty, while the tiramisu had that perfect balance of espresso, mascarpone, and cocoa. Final Thoughts Ciao Bella sticks to authentic, unfussy Italian flavors, making it a reliable choice for those craving a hearty meal or a casual bite. The ambiance is warm and inviting, the menu covers all the essentials, and the quality is consistent. Whether you're stopping by for a quick espresso or a full Italian feast, this spot feels like a little escape to Italy, without leaving Dubai.
