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Forbes
26-06-2025
- Lifestyle
- Forbes
The Secret Beauty Spot Brooklynites Don't Want You To Know About
Lumena Aesthetics on a sweet corner in Carroll Gardens South Brooklyn has a secret. A big one. (And, surprisingly, it's not the ethical non-monogamy depicted in recent memoirs coming out of this neighborhood.) Nope. This best-kept secret is a sweet, unassuming gem on a mostly residential corner in Carroll Gardens where the Rachel Comey-clad hordes descend—like homing pigeons—to maintain their beauty. This secret is Lumena Aesthetics. The Inside Scoop Even New York's most dedicated beauty junkies outside the fold may not know about this cult-favorite medi-spa, but it is most definitely a thing. And, for 10 years, it has thrived almost on word-of-mouth alone. Despite being a longtime beauty writer, I personally first learned about this spot from the ladies at my Clinton Hill book club, who were whispering conspiratorially one evening about a treatment one of them had just had. I was, of course, curious. How had I missed this magic in my own backyard? The Difference Maker The answer—both for why Lumena has remained under-the-radar and why it's so prized by those in the know—is that the owner Jen Katz has always done things a little bit differently. And, as a result, she's been ahead of the curve. Jen Katz, founder of Lumena, does things her own way For instance, one giant draw from the beginning has been the clinic's bespoke treatment called 'The Signature' (it now offers a Signature 1 and 2). With this service, clients pay a flat fee to have Katz examine their skin and implement a medley of lasers that might most benefit their specific needs. Of course, customers can still sign up for individual laser series of, say, Clear + Brilliant or Laser Genesis, as is standard at medical spas. But, because most people don't show up entirely sure what they need for their changing skin, this more tailored offering has been a game-changer. It's an antidote to being sold a bill of goods about some fancy new laser that isn't actually the right one for you. Today, the customizable skincare market is growing by leaps and bounds, projected—according to a report by Future Market Insights—to grow from $29.3 billion to $62.4 billion by 2034. And, according to Straits Research, the cosmetic laser market is also expanding appreciably year-over-year, valued at $3.99 billion in 2024, projected to reach $4.55 billion in 2025 and $14.79 billion by 2033. So, Katz was, and continues to be, ahead of her time, offering a medley of individualized laser services (something that is still somewhat rare in combination) at a price that makes these often astronomical treatments relatively accessible. 'I almost can't help but use what I have in my arsenal to address clients' needs, and those needs change with each visit,' the medical esthetician explains in an email interview, describing how, if a client wants to address pore size and fine lines, for example, she might also suggest a bit of IPL at the hairline to manage sun damage or Laser Genesis to stimulate collagen. 'My clients trust…that I will do what will be most impactful while protecting the integrity of the skin.' Her toolbox for targeting pigment, texture and tone includes treatments like Clear + Brilliant for the face and chest (with or without platelet rich plasma), microneedling, an Acne Control facial, Morpheous8 RF (for skin tightening on the face, neck and chest), Laser Genesis with microdermabrasion and more. As Katz feels her client base has neither the time nor the need for ablative laser treatments that necessitate real downtime, she eschews more extreme services that require wound care or leave the skin looking raw—but she still is all about results. 'What I really appreciate about Jen is that she assesses my skin and uses her whole arsenal,' says Megan McQuillan in an email interview, an early adopter, community organizer and local mom who first discovered Lumena when she moved from the West Village and needed a new facial spot. 'So, she can use each of the tools judiciously on discrete areas that need it. Saves so much time and money, honestly.' A Competitive Edge Of course, it requires a very specific type of esthetician and entrepreneur to enact this unusual model. And Katz is anything but typical for the field. For one thing, she challenges the industry's prototypical beauty/wellness founder's soft-spoken demeanor and untouchable Gwyneth-inspired vibe. Instead, Lumena's owner is edgy and direct, speaking frankly about everything from the challenges of perimenopause and parenthood to the lovingly curated indie playlists she has on rotation (which often include music from Yo La Tengo, The Cure, Liz Phair or some acoustic version of a punk anthem). She's more cool than coiffed—and inclusion is essential for her. So far, she has shrugged off the need for a massive social media presence, suggesting—quite fairly—that maintaining it on a high level is in itself a full-time job. 'As a mom and a business owner, I have zero time for posting content,' she says. 'But I also think it's kind of gangster not to need it. I've grown organically thanks to word-of-mouth and that produces currency that has more value than 'likes.'' Katz comes by her knowledge honestly—what she calls 'a true understanding of the physics and theory behind the lasers.' After a stint in fashion as a stylist and costume designer, she became her father's caretaker after he was diagnosed with a serious illness. That experience led her down a medical path. Ultimately, she recognized cosmetic lasers as a burgeoning trend and, after training and getting certified at Atelier Esthetique in 2008, she began working for everyone from prominent dermatologists to high-volume chain spas. And she absorbed knowledge from both types of experiences, plus everything in between. At Goldman Dermatology, for example, she trained under a well-respected doctor while building a client base. Later, she worked at chain spas that she felt prioritized profit over performance, but she gleaned a different type of expertise as she enacted the same tasks dozens of times a day on different skin. 'I find value in the muscle memory I've developed from working at McLaser chain spas, and the education I've received working in austere medical settings,' she notes. Thus informed, Katz went out on her own 10 years ago, a scrappy and proud female entrepreneur, independent business owner and person of color in a space that is largely white and surprisingly male-dominated when it comes to ownership. (Despite the majority of estheticians being female, according to LedBetter research, women only occupy 24% of executive positions at personal care companies.) Lumena's first location was in a tiny room at the back of a hair salon in Boerum Hill. Next, Katz expanded to a warehouse space next door on a 'neglected corner,' which she built out herself. Later, as her following continued to grow, she moved to her current location not far away in Carroll Gardens, also on a quiet corner. 'I had to find creative solutions to transform an abandoned deli in a landmark designated building into a serene, inviting space,' she recalls, citing inspiration from the blonde wood-lined Oslo airport. An Unexpected Escape From the beginning, Lumena felt less like a stark medi-spa and more like a "secret social club for local moms in-the-know,' Katz says. At least 70% of her clients are busy moms, and—being one herself and thus understanding the nature of that harried existence—she wanted to create a safe space that felt like a respite from the outside world. Essentially, she feels she understands her client base because she is her client base. This is also in opposition to the more standard skincare clinic experience, which she feels too often becomes about pointing out some flaw and then upselling vulnerable customers. 'I don't want my clients to do math on the treatment bed to see if they can afford a treatment for a 'flaw' they didn't know they had,' she impassions, arguing that the goal is to look like your best self, not someone different. 'I want them to tune out for an hour. [Coming to Lumena] means you have an hour to listen to music you like as opposed to whatever your kids bark at Alexa, it means drinking a beverage you're too sensible to buy regularly, experiencing a treatment you know will be transformative because you bore witness to your neighbor's sunspots vanishing, and simply lying on a comforting bed that isn't peppered with pet hair. That sounds like heaven to me.' Inside Lumena with its minimalist look 'I love that everyone in the office still looks like a human being with human features, glowy and gorgeous but real,' says McQuillan. 'And of course Jen has the best playlist in Brooklyn. I have sent everyone I know and continue to be such an evangelist.' Some devotees are more tight-lipped, afraid that their charming escape will be overrun. And it is true that, while years ago clients could book appointments within a week or two, today the wait to see Katz can be months—which only makes the hordes hungrier. The demand is a testament to Lumena's success, as is the approximately 25-30% steady revenue growth over the course of the last decade. Now, clients are coming for more than the founder's laser treatments, as well. Always thinking expansively, Katz has brought on a cherrypicked team in the interest of making Lumena a kind of one-stop-shop for all things beauty. This includes microblading and microshaping with award-winning 'eyebrow architect' Josh Beeler (a Shen veteran), and Korean-style botox application and NAD+ and glutathione IVs with nurse practitioner Seolhee Patel. Lumena doesn't offer filler because Katz doesn't believe it's optimal for long-term skin health. And If You Don't Know, Now You Know Next up as she scales, Katz is launching her own post-treatment skincare line, which she stresses will be truly her own. (She laments the ease with which people can slap a label on a product selected from a catalogue and notes one laser hair removal spa where she once worked that used identical products but called them totally different things suggesting different functions.) And she's hoping to incorporate even more wellness offerings, from LED light beds to EMF muscle stimulation and other high-tech body treatments into Lumena's offerings. But mostly she wants to keep on keeping on, offering a beautifying respite—for people of all types—from the chaos of modern life. 'For me, it's about looking like the best version of yourself at this exact stage,' she muses, 'so you can navigate the vicissitudes of life with confidence.'
New York Times
22-05-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Why Lucali (Still) Isn't On Our Best Pizza List
For those of us in the business of being journalistically critical, there is a grab bag of ways that the job can go wrong. A chef could confront you over your review. Your social media mentions could become a garbage fire. Your inbox could pile up with emails from angry readers. But the greatest nightmare might be sending someone into a subpar dining experience — one that might not be worth their time, effort or hard-earned money. In October we published our list of the best pizza spots in New York City, and hawk-eyed readers noticed that Lucali, the infamously hard-to-get-into restaurant and pizzeria in Carroll Gardens, was nowhere to be seen. This week, we updated that list and, once again, there's no Lucali. Why? Well, the hassle-to-quality ratio is out of whack. Lucali is still difficult to get into — would-be diners often have to stand in line for hours before the restaurant opens — and if you are able to secure a table, the food might not deliver. For this go-round, I sent Luke Fortney, an energetic and intrepid food reporter, to retest the waters after Priya Krishna's visit last fall. On a Monday in March, Luke lined up at 1:30 p.m., two-and-a-half hours before a host appears and starts taking reservations. At 7 p.m., he and a few friends were seated for dinner. I'll let Luke take it from there: I had done this song and dance before but I didn't remember the service being so rushed once you were inside. Our dinner for a table of three — two pizzas, a calzone and a pasta — lasted 72 minutes. We would have lingered, but we were asked to leave with a half-finished bottle of wine. I liked, not loved, our pizzas. The tomato sauce was as good (salty) as ever but the dough was denser than I remembered. A few weeks later, I returned to order a takeout pizza with a 20-minute wait. That was when I realized it wasn't really about the wait or the service. The pizza just wasn't there. Both Priya and Luke made the point that you could enjoy equally good pizza at nearby restaurants without the hassle. (Embrace the hot restaurant dupe!) And I've lived here long enough — going on 13 years — to know that at the end of most long lines there is regret, disappointment or a mixture of both. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
New York Times
15-03-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
How a TikTok Cook Spends Her Sundays
Justine Doiron didn't plan on becoming a recipe developer when she moved to New York in 2016. She was fresh out of Cornell University's hospitality program and had embarked on a career in public relations. Cooking was just a hobby then. Today, she's better known by her online moniker Justine Snacks and shares recipe videos with 2.3 million followers on TikTok. Ms. Doiron, 30, first gave TikTok a whirl in April 2020. Since the app's main audience seemed to be teenagers, she geared her content toward them with trending recipes for sushi cakes and pasta flowers. Eventually, her style morphed into what she's best known for today: approachable, veggie-forward recipes paired with stories from her day-to-day life. She recently published 'Justine Cooks: A Cookbook' and has another one in the works. All of Ms. Doiron's recipe testing, on and off camera, is done in the kitchen of her 250-year-old wood frame house in the Crown Heights neighborhood in Brooklyn. 'I'm really building out my dream life in the house, because this year's been the year of Martha Stewart and Ina Garten, and their resurgence of this 'nostalgia core,'' she said. Ms. Doiron lives with her fiancé, Eric Lipka, 31, an intelligence analyst, their French bulldog, Walter, and their rescue cat, Gladiator. EARLY TO RISE I wake up at 6 a.m. if not earlier. I've been having a lot of trouble sleeping lately, which I guess just comes with age and general anxiety about things (love that). I also really like my mornings to myself. I use the first hour of the morning to ingest coffee like it's my job and write down my general outline and plans for the week. TO MARKET TO MARKET I go to the Carroll Gardens Greenmarket as my grossest self. I'm just pajamas-to-jeans, a T-shirt, a puffy jacket, a coat, beanie, puffy eyes and S.P.F. on my face, and I'm out the door by 7:30 a.m. I like seeing everything at its fullest potential. I don't like to feel like I might have missed out something. Carroll Gardens has ACQ Bread Co., which is my favorite bread in the entire city — it's everyone's favorite bread. They have a line down the block no matter how early I am to the market. Every two weeks I get their Living Bread, which has seeds and sprouts. GUILTY PLEASURE Afterward, I pop into Trader Joe's. It's a 10-minute walk from the Carroll Gardens market, so the amount of guilt I feel walking into Trader Joe's with two tote bags filled of vegetables that aren't theirs, to get five cans of chickpeas, some edamame and some coffee creamer, is crazy, but it's part of my routine. Then I take the subway home. LEISURELY BREAKFAST My big luxury is a big, slow breakfast, my shower and being lazy for the next 90 minutes. For breakfast, I toast two slices of the Living Bread I just bought, and then I like to boil jammy eggs. I'm a three egg kind of girl, and I mash them up with chili, flaky salt, red wine vinegar, black pepper and I just put that on the toast. It's a great time to get avocado, so if I have blessed myself with a ripened avocado and have that available, that'll go on there too. Eric, if he's lucky enough, and awake and hungry, will get the same. FIXER UPPER Our house is amazing, but when we got it it needed some tender love and care. I really want a Brooklyn garden in the backyard (which is just concrete, let's be honest). We're making garden beds that have good drainage, and I'm watching the sun and seeing where it'll go. Soon, I'll start seeds on the third floor of the house. TEST KITCHEN I'm usually so excited and inspired by ingredients, especially right when I get them, because nothing hits like the vegetables you just buy. They're at their peak gorgeousness and freshness. I'm currently in the throes of working on book No. 2, so I do a quick little recipe test, or a quick little, 'let's put these flavors together with this ingredient and kind of see where it nets out.' Maybe this will turn into an idea further down the line. We're not super hungry since we had a late breakfast, so it's a little peckish recipe test snack. EARLY BIRD I'm such a morning person and a lazy night person that sometimes we meet our friends for just drinks or aperitivo. Agi's Counter is in our neighborhood, and that's my favorite place. I like to get the window seat (if you know, you know) and just get something super cozy there for dinner. CLEAN UP I have kept this habit since my 9-to-5 corporate days. I can't start a week without feeling some semblance of: normalcy, control, clean. I just straighten the house, do whatever laundry I can and make sure the kitchen's clean. It takes me about an hour, and I do it while listening to a podcast like 'Las Culturistas.' It used to be so much more intense, but I've relaxed now that we have a dog and a cat and I share the home with somebody else. I realize I've let go of a lot of control of things, but the cleaning has stayed. EARLY TO BED Eric and I are together most of the day, but we like to prioritize hanging out all in the same room. He might be logging on and finishing up some emails, while I read and prepare to fall asleep. I've really gotten into reading. I loved 'The Wedding People' by Alison Espach and I'm getting back into reading Maggie O'Farrell — I leap at her books anytime they're available on the library's Libby app. I'm in this phase of my life where I completely understand how lucky I am to have so much peace and so much freedom with my schedule. I use that freedom to go to bed on the earlier side.
