Latest news with #Castiglioni
Observer
21-07-2025
- Business
- Observer
Finally, Another Woman Designer Gets a Big Brand
In the latest move in the unprecedented realignment of the fashion world, Meryll Rogge was appointed creative director of Marni on Tuesday. She will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, accessories, store design and communications, replacing Francesco Risso, who left the Italian brand last month after almost 10 years. Rogge is the 17th new designer named to a big brand since mid-2024, but only the fourth woman. It's a striking imbalance in an industry that is still largely powered by womenswear and accessories, and one that was quick to pay lip service to diversity in recent years but has seemed to retreat from many of its pledges in terms of gender and race. Rogge will become the sole female designer in the stable of OTB, the holding company that also owns Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Diesel and Viktor & Rolf and that reported sales of 1.7 billion euros in 2024, down 4% from 2023. Similarly, Louise Trotter, who will make her debut at Bottega Veneta in September, is the only female fashion designer at Kering, the luxury group that owns Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, among other brands. The other two women who became creative directors of major fashion houses this year are Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein. In a news release, Marni CEO Stefano Rosso called Rogge 'an exceptional creative talent and an inspiring woman.' A Belgian designer who started her career at Marc Jacobs before becoming head of women's design at Dries Van Noten and founding a namesake brand in 2020, Rogge, 40, shares a certain quirky practicality with Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni. It was Castiglioni who transformed her husband's family fur company into a runway name beloved of bohemian intellectuals and art gallerists with a messy bent. In 2012, OTB bought a majority stake in the company, acquiring it fully in 2015. The next year, Castiglioni left, citing personal reasons, and Risso was named creative director. Though Risso's collections could be eye-poppingly imaginative, bristling with three-dimensional metal flowers or covered in what looked like finger paint, they could also seem self-indulgent — fun to look at but hard to wear. Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024 and was the recipient of the Andam Prize earlier this year, one of fashion's most prestigious awards. In explaining the selection, Guillaume Houzé, the president of Andam, cited Rogge's ability to turn 'ambiguity, hybridity and the unexpected into allies.' Like Castiglioni, she is also adept at marrying the conceptual to the commercial and has an affinity for color and the sort of print combinations that are alluring in their oddity. In the news release, Rogge called joining Marni 'both humbling and inspiring.' A spokesperson for Marni did not specify when Rogge would unveil her first collection. She did say, however, that the designer planned to maintain her own line and split her time between the two brands. Multitasking, as it were. —NYT
The Star
21-07-2025
- Business
- The Star
Who is Meryll Rogge, the under-the-radar fashion designer now heading Marni?
Meryll Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024. Photo: Instagram/Marni In the latest move in the unprecedented realignment of the fashion world, Meryll Rogge was appointed creative director of Marni last week. She will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, accessories, store design and communications, replacing Francesco Risso, who left the Italian brand last month after almost 10 years. Rogge is the 17th new designer named to a big brand since mid-2024, but only the fourth woman. It's a striking imbalance in an industry that is still largely powered by womenswear and accessories, and one that was quick to pay lip service to diversity in recent years, but has seemed to retreat from many of its pledges in terms of gender and race. Rogge will become the sole female designer in the stable of OTB, the holding company that also owns Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Diesel and Viktor & Rolf and that reported sales of €1.7bil (approximately RM8.4bil) in 2024, down 4% from 2023. Similarly, Louise Trotter, who will make her debut at Bottega Veneta in September, is the only female fashion designer at Kering, the luxury group that owns Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, among other brands. Read more: All eyes on fashion provocateur Demna as he attempts to revive Gucci's fortunes The other two women who became creative directors of major fashion houses this year are Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein. In a news release, Marni CEO Stefano Rosso called Rogge 'an exceptional creative talent and an inspiring woman'. A Belgian designer who started her career at Marc Jacobs before becoming head of women's design at Dries Van Noten and founding a namesake brand in 2020, Rogge, 40, shares a certain quirky practicality with Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni. It was Castiglioni who transformed her husband's family fur company into a runway name beloved of bohemian intellectuals and art gallerists with a messy bent. In 2012, OTB bought a majority stake in the company, acquiring it fully in 2015. The next year, Castiglioni left, citing personal reasons, and Risso was named creative director. Though Risso's collections could be eye-poppingly imaginative, bristling with three-dimensional metal flowers or covered in what looked like finger paint, they could also seem self-indulgent – fun to look at, but hard to wear. Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024 and was the recipient of the Andam Prize earlier this year, one of fashion's most prestigious awards. Read more: Why is Jonathan Anderson's first Dior show at Paris Fashion Week so significant? In explaining the selection, Guillaume Houze, the president of Andam, cited Rogge's ability to turn 'ambiguity, hybridity and the unexpected into allies'. Like Castiglioni, she is also adept at marrying the conceptual to the commercial, and has an affinity for colour and the sort of print combinations that are alluring in their oddity. In the news release, Rogge called joining Marni 'both humbling and inspiring'. A spokesperson for Marni did not specify when Rogge would unveil her first collection. She did say, however, that the designer planned to maintain her own line and split her time between the two brands. Multitasking, as it were. – ©2025 The New York Times Company This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
Hypebeast
18-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
Marni Bids Farewell to Francesco Risso
In an official statement shared withVogue,Marniconfirmed on Wednesday morning that its Creative Director of 10 years,Francesco Risso, is exiting the brand. Appointed in 2016, the designer has been the Italian label's only Creative Director, aside from founder Consuelo Castiglioni, who started the brand in 1994. 'I will always be grateful to Renzo [Rosso] for believing in me, for giving me the front seat on a journey that became more than I could have imagined,' Rosso shared with Vogue. 'Marni has been a studio, a stage, a dream. It carried color, instinct, care, and gave space for people to be themselves. It taught me how to build with feeling and how powerful true collaboration can be,' he continued. Risso expanded upon Castiglioni's legacy with a craft-geared ethos, taking the founders' expressive color and texture to the next level and introducing the label to a new generation. Risso's chunky knitwear, bohemian florals, and reworked sensibilities connected with younger luxury audiences with more directional tastes. His neon furry mules, ultra-plush mohair cardigans, and hand-illustrated and painted garments proved a hit with Gen Z and Millennials, facilitating collaborations with Yeezy vetDingyun Zhang,Carhartt WIP, and even R&B legendErykah Badu. The appointment completes a round of changes at parent companyOTB Group, which ownsDiesel,Jil Sander,Maison Margiela, and more. FollowingGlenn Martens' exit fromY/Projectlast year, the designer who also heads Diesel went full OTB by joining Maison Margiela asJohn Galliano's replacement. In February,Lucie and Luke Meierdeparted from Jil Sander, andSimone Bellottiwas tapped for their replacement in March. The reintroduction of a female perspective at the brand could evoke nostalgia from Marni die-hards who have missed Castiglioni's distinct vision. Castiglioni only introduced Marni's mens line in 2006, before which the brand had focused on its original womens line. Rumors suggest thatVirginie Viard, who leftChanellast year, orMaria Grazie Chiuri,who leftDiorweeks ag,o could take the helm. However, their specialty in traditional luxury and couture informed aesthetics makes the two less of a match for the young Italian house. By setting its sights further than directors from other major luxury houses, Marni could continue developing its distinct identity with the vision of a newcomer. A young and independent name likeMartine Roseis an ideal candidate, with her offbeat references, colorful palette, and at times whimsical design details. For example, Marni's pillow-like pastel-huedHokarunners echo Rose's inflated and candy-colored footwear designs forClarks. The British designer's cult following could bring the excitement needed to boost the conglomerate's appeal amidst the luxury slowdown's headwinds. Is it possible that OTB Group could opt out of the echo chamber that's kept the same creative directors in rotation? As of the time of writing, Marni has yet to confirm a replacement for Risso. Stay tuned to Hypebeast for the latest fashion industry insights.
