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Indian Express
3 days ago
- Indian Express
A road trip takes these friends back in time, to the medieval empires across the Deccan peninsula
A long-held desire to visit Hampi finally fructified in the guise of an all-girls road trip through Karnataka in March. It was an indelible adventure, one that, on the face of it, began in Goa and ended in Bangalore, but in fact wove five history enthusiasts through the vestiges of three dynamic empires spread across the Deccan peninsula and 10 medieval centuries. It is no coincidence that their once-thriving capitals are located near river systems. Waterways have long played a critical role in the development of civilizations, empires and societies, not least economies. In the case of the Chalukya and Vijayanagara empires, says historian Anirudh Kanisetti, the river valleys they arose in also held geopolitical and strategic importance. 'The Malaprabha river cuts through sandstone cliffs which provide an easily fortifiable area where you can raise crops, dredge various minerals, get sandstone to construct temples and post lookouts all over the cliffs — essentially the ideal heartland for a militaristic kingdom'. For an arid region that once produced nothing but millets, the Malaprabha river's rocky valley ultimately made amends by spawning an empire so powerful that it reigned supreme over the Deccan variously between the 6th and 12th centuries CE. Its pastoral founders reportedly borrowed their moniker from the chalke (crowbar), an essential implement for cultivators, and it went on to become synonymous with the empire's free-standing rock-cut temple architecture. The early examples can be found strewn across Aihole and Badami, the respective commercial and political power centres of the Chalukyan Empire. The finest of these temples are to be seen in the cluster at Pattadakal, their one-time cultural seat, located on a bend of the Malaprabha, a village so somnolent that it belies its past as the scenic setting of many a Chalukyan coronation. While taking a breather under a leafy tree near the stunning Lokeshwara Temple (now Virupaksha Temple), we imagine Queen Lokamahadevi — on whose behest it was built — sailing up the Malaprabha with her entourage, alighting on its bank, and walking through the large riverside gateway to supplicate before Shiva in the richly sculpted sanctum. One imagines this is also how the Ramalingeshwar complex in Aihole, best visited during the annual ratha utsav (chariot festival), would have been accessed. In its vicinity, on the ridge above a lone Jain cave temple, rock paintings and as many as 42 dolmens, are indicative of the valley's pre-historic antecedents. Alongside temples, we find the ingenious Chalukyas employing the Malaprabha's rugged terrain to their military advantage. They built the Badami citadel atop a gigantic, impossible-to-breach, sandstone promontory. While not much remains of the fortifications, the view from the top is breathtaking in every sense of the word — the climb up is neither for the unfit nor the fainthearted. After posing beside the stone chariot inside Hampi's musical-pillared Vithala Temple, our Rs 50 currency notes dutifully held aloft, we gave ourselves some downtime near the glittering and — warned a sign — crocodile-infested waters of the Tungabhadra. A two kilometre-guided walk along its rock-strewn bank, replete with shrines and monuments, would have brought us to Virupaksha Temple, the top attraction in Hampi, but the heat dissuaded us. Instead, we sat watching coracles ferry locals to and from the opposite bank. There, hidden from view by boulders and a verdant copse, was Anegundi, a prominent fortified town that predates Vijayanagara. Also where our first taste of authentic local cuisine, a lunch curated by the Kishkinda Trust, waited. We took in the calming blue as it gorged through the granite landscape. Kanisetti explains, 'The city's site, on the banks of the Tungabhadra, was strategically positioned to control the Raichur Doab, an important frontier between the Deccan Sultanates and the territories of Vijayanagara. The part of the Tungabhadra that the eponymous empire ruled over was much rockier, easy to fortify, but less suitable for populations. Vijaynagara solved this with extraordinary feats of hydraulic engineering.' By constructing dams, reservoirs, and rainwater collection systems, the Tungabhadra empire managed to transform the relatively inhospitable landscape into the seat of one of the largest cities of its time in the world. Many of these feats, the drawing of water for agriculture, drinking, and bathing, from the Tungabhadra, are still in evidence in Hampi. Most riverside temples are equipped with large step-wells (pushkarni or kalyani) to cater to the shrine's requirements. Canals built by Vijayanagara rulers continue to irrigate not just the farmlands flanking the river but even those further afield. Rainwater was harvested in several reservoirs that visibly encircle Hampi even today, like the expansive Kamalapura Lake. Another integral feature of Vijayanagara's extensive water supply system was the aqueduct. These raised water channels, as seen beside the step-well near Mahanavami Dibba, ensured the royal enclosure stayed well and truly hydrated. It is no empty boast then that Hampi once housed a whopping 400,000 inhabitants! The Yagachi Rivers in southern Karnataka are less rocky than their northern counterparts and the Hoysalas (sandwiched between the Krishna and Kaveri rivers) found them better suited for irrigation purposes. For other requirements, the rulers constructed a number of reservoirs. In fact, Dwarasamudra (Halebidu), the capital city they founded in the 11th century, stands on the shores of one such artificial lake. Those soothing waters can be seen beyond the well-tended grounds of the star-shaped and exquisitely carved 12th century Hoysaleshwar Temple. We had to ultimately steal ourselves away from Halebidu's intricate soapstone friezes and sculpted figures to head to Belur, their later capital, banked on the Yagachi. There, an equally magnificent Chennakeshava Temple held us in rapt thrall. When we finally left, we did so with the evening aarti reverberating in our ears. Could one have asked for a better send-off?
Time of India
6 days ago
- General
- Time of India
CM inaugurates excavation in Lakkundi
Gadag: With the inauguration of the excavation of the historical site Kote Veerabhadreshwara Temple in Lakkundi by the chief minister, Siddaramaiah , on Tuesday, hopes of getting crucial clues have multiplied among history enthusiasts of the state and nation as well. Meanwhile, the Lakkundi Heritage Area Development Authority is preparing for an open museum on the lines of Warangal in Telangana. CM Siddaramaiah said that the govt is committed to establishing an open museum in Lakkundi. "This village, Lakkundi, was the capital of the Chalukyas, who constructed temples and a fort here. Remnants of these structures have provided historical information. We provided the required funds to unearth historical structures and artefacts, and that is why conservation became possible here," he claimed. He attributed law minister HK Patil's interest as the reason for launching an excavation in Lakkundi. He thanked the residents of Lakkundi who transferred their land and houses, where relics were found, to the govt. It should be noted that Lakkundi is one of the 844 sites notified for protection. Govt departments like tourism, archaeology, museums, and heritage organised a special campaign between Nov 22 to 24 last year to collect relics from the doorsteps of villagers. The campaign collected over 1,500 relics, and they will be displayed in an open museum of 4 acres. The govt announced funds for the museum in the current year's budget. A team of experts already visited Warangal and opined that a museum better than the one in Warangal can be established here. According to Patil, who is also in charge of Gadag district, Lakkundi villagers are very cooperative with the excavation. "Experts have said that if 27 families leave their houses, five temples can be traced. Most of the house owners agreed to give up their properties, and we will provide alternative accommodation to them," he shared. Meanwhile, the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) conducted a study and submitted a nomination to get a world heritage tag for Lakkundi. The govt is mulling submitting a request to the International Council on Monuments and Sites to add Lakkundi to the world heritage temporary list. Gadag residentse believe that Lakkundi could become a bigger world heritage site than Hampi if it is excavated and developed properly. The previous excavation was in 2004-05 in Lakkundi, and various important relics were found then.
The Hindu
6 days ago
- General
- The Hindu
Siddaramaiah initiates excavation in Lakkundi, promises requisite funds for open museum
Chief Minister Siddaramaiah on Tuesday initiated excavation on the premises of the historical Kote Veerabhadreshwara temple in Lakkundi of Gadag district, and promised all requisite funds for the work and also for the proposed open air museum in the village. Addressing presspersons after viewing exhibits at the site of the proposed museum, the Chief Minister announced that the government would extend all necessary assistance for preserving the architectural and heritage sites across Karnataka. Recalling the historical importance of Lakkundi, Mr. Siddaramaiah said that known for the architectural wonders, Lakkundi was the capital of the Chalukyas and also a place of importance during other kingdoms. 'Because of the personal interest taken by Minister H.K. Patil, the Lakkundi Heritage Area Development Authority was established in 2017-18. The excavation will reveal various facts of the earlier kingdoms,' he said. The Chief Minister said that the government had provided necessary funds for preserving temple heritage and places of historical and architectural importance and would continue to do so. Mr. Siddaramaiah recalled his contest in the 1991 Lok Sabha elections from Koppal and the support from the people of Lakkundi and also thanked them for donating land for setting up the museum. On the occasion, farmers Shivanagouda Goudar and Premanagouda Goudar handed over letters of consent for donating their land to the government for the museum. The project Under the excavation project initiated by the Lakkundi Heritage Area Development Authority, it has been proposed to include more area and already owners of five houses have come forward to hand over their houses for facilitating the excavation. Mr. Patil said that the consent of 27 owners was required for completing the whole project, and efforts are on to convince them. Once the houses were handed over, full-fledged excavation would commence, he added.
Time of India
02-05-2025
- General
- Time of India
ASI begins scientific cleaning and conservation of copper plate inscriptions unearthed in Suryapet
Hyderabad: The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has begun the process of scientific cleaning and conservation of a rare set of copper plate inscriptions discovered in a Muslim graveyard at Kodad village in Suryapet district. The nine plates, which were recently unearthed, are now confirmed to date back to the Chalukyas of Vengi , a dynasty that ruled large parts of present-day Andhra Pradesh and Telangana between the 7th and 12th centuries CE. You Can Also Check: Hyderabad AQI | Weather in Hyderabad | Bank Holidays in Hyderabad | Public Holidays in Hyderabad On the instructions of the director of epigraphy at ASI K Muniratnam Reddy, the science branch in Hyderabad began chemical treatment of the plates to restore and preserve them. The ASI said that the epigraphic analysis will be completed soon. Preliminary observations suggest that the charters were issued under the authority of the Chalukya rulers, although specific details of the content remain undeciphered at this stage. According to K Muniratnam Reddy, once the cleaning is complete, the epigraphy branch of the ASI will take estampages — exact impressions — of the copper plates for further study. These impressions will then be deciphered, transcribed and analysed by experts to fully understand the inscriptions. Experts say the copper-plate inscriptions may contain valuable historical data relating to land grants, administration, social structure and possibly religious endowments from the Chalukya period. The discovery is expected to add new dimensions to the understanding of the Vengi branch of the Chalukyas and their influence in the region. The discovery is considered significant for the early medieval history of Telangana and may help refine existing timelines and genealogies of South Indian dynasties.
