Latest news with #Chef'sTable
National Geographic
13-07-2025
- Entertainment
- National Geographic
How pizza omakase became a trend and where to try it
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). If you've ever looked at the menu in a pizzeria and been blinded by indecision, then pizza omakase might be for you – the food trend that gives you licence to sample a slice of everything. Meaning 'I leave it up to you' in Japanese, omakase traditionally refers to the experience of sitting around a small sushi counter while the chef expertly crafts perfect sushi in front of you. Eschewing such workaday formalities as a menu, they hand you delicate slices of fish and rice with reverence, adapting what's served to your tastes and desires. As a catch-all term for leaving your dinner decisions in the hands of the chef, omakase is an intimate, often high-end tasting menu experience that's taken off around the world extending far beyond sushi, incorporating the likes of desserts and foods cooked over fire. And omakase has now also embraced pizza, with a concept that largely offers a tasting menu of different slices, bookended by appetisers and desserts. Popping up everywhere from Japan to Costa Rica, pizza omakase is not about sitting respectfully at a counter, as is the way with its sushi forebears; the experience is often enjoyed by many people at once in a lively restaurant dining room. One of its pioneers is Franco Pepe (star of Netflix's Chef's Table), at his Pepe in Grani pizzeria in the small hilltop town of Caiazzo, north of Naples. There are three pizza tasting menus available, which change seasonally apart from a few signatures, all beginning and concluding with fried pizza – savoury to start and sweet to finish. Just like traditional omakase, the mood and tastes of the customer are taken into consideration, assessed in real time by front of house staff and communicated back to the pizzaioli. Pepe's signature margherita sbagliata (margherita 'done wrong') is topped with just mozzarella before being cooked, then dressed with tomato passata and green pesto. Photograph by Pepe in Grani 'The goal is to guide the customer through the entire experience, reaching the final course without ever feeling weighed down,' says Pepe. The idea for pizza tasting menus started to take shape around 2013, he says. He doesn't claim to be the concept's originator, although he notes 'if you ask ChatGPT it will tell you that I was the first.' That honour, he says, falls to friend and colleague Simone Padoan of Verona's I Tigli. 'In his case,' continues Pepe, 'the menu was made up of whole pizzas to be shared in slices. I chose a different approach, offering just one slice of each type of pizza.' Pepe also hosts intimate omakase experiences at Authentica, 'the world's smallest pizzeria' set above the restaurant. Here, up to eight guests sit around a counter and eat selections of still-bubbling slices cooked by the man himself. 'If this has become a trend, I can't help but feel pleased' says Pepe. 'As it represents one of the most important experiences for the customer: the opportunity to experience the pizzaiolo's creativity.' Where to try pizza omakase 1. Pepe in Grani Franco Pepe's pizzeria is a pilgrimage for foodies, who descend on the hill town of Caiazzo in the Campania countryside 25 miles north of Naples, to sample next-level pizza made with the finest local ingredients. Pepe's signature margherita sbagliata (margherita 'done wrong') is always on offer, topped with just mozzarella before being cooked, then dressed with tomato passata and green pesto. The fried pizza slices, meanwhile – dressed simply with a slice of tomato, anchovies and lemon zest – touch the divine. Amazingly, Pepe manages the rhythm of the menu in a way that leaves you full but not overwhelmed. Menus from €40 (£34). Francesco Capece is co-owner of Milan's Confine restaurant, where pizza is given a fine-dining treatment. Photograph by Martina Corà Confine was recently named fourth-best pizzeria in the world by Italy's 50 Top Pizza ranking. Photograph by Martina Corà 2. Confine Another acclaimed Campania pizzaiolo, Francesco Capece is co-owner of Milan's Confine restaurant, where pizza is given a fine-dining treatment. Paired with wines, the tasting menu takes in different pizza styles including pan-baked padellino from Turin, and classic Neapolitan, served una sola fetta (as a single slice). It was recently named fourth-best pizzeria in the world by Italy's 50 Top Pizza ranking. Menus from €40 (£34). The by-the-slice pizza tasting menu at Seba's on Costa Rica's Pacific coast draws on a farm-to-table, open-fire ethos. Photograph by Christopher Avila 50 Top Pizza named Seba's the best pizzeria in Costa Rica and also ranked it among the top 50 in Latin America. Photograph by Christopher Avila 3. Seba's Launched in spring 2025, the by-the-slice pizza tasting menu at Seba's on Costa Rica's Pacific coast draws on a farm-to-table, open-fire ethos. Expect toppings including expertly grilled local beef, smoked fish and seasonal vegetables across varieties that range from classic Neapolitan and Romana to a New York-style large, foldable thin-crust slice. 50 Top Pizza named Seba's the best pizzeria in Costa Rica and also ranked it among the top 50 in Latin America. Menus from US$50 (£36). 4. Pizzeria Sei Multicultural influences and premium ingredients feature on the 11-course menu on monthly omakase nights at this Los Angeles venue. One for the more adventurous diners, Sei is led by chef-owner William Joo who plays with flavours that might result in the likes of a tom yum margherita with scallop pepperoni and a Baja fish taco pizza topped with sea urchin from Hokkaido, Japan. Menus from US$125 (£91). Pace yourself, as the meal kicks off with four starters and there is a selection of Italian desserts to finish. Photograph by Marc Fiorito 5. Tony's Pizza Napoletana Thirteen-time World Pizza Champion Tony Gemignani doesn't hold back at his San Francisco pizzeria, where the offering is less dainty tasting menu, more full-on feast. Here, seven pizzas are served up whole, featuring styles from around the world and taking in the likes of an artichoke canotto ('dingy', the name referring to the pizza's shape, with a puffy raised crust) with mozzarella, artichoke, smoked provolone, spinach, garlic and lemon, along with Gemignani's award-winning signature margherita. Pace yourself, as the meal also kicks off with four starters and there is a selection of Italian desserts to finish. Menus cost $500 (£364) for up to six people. Roman native executive chef Daniele Cason serves a-by-the-slice counter omakase experience for up to eight guests taking in six types of seasonal pizza. Photograph by Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Tokyo The Pizza Bar on 38th is set high in the sky at Tokyo's Mandarin Oriental hotel. Photograph by Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Tokyo 6. The Pizza Bar on 38th At The Pizza Bar on 38th, set high in the sky at Tokyo's Mandarin Oriental hotel, Roman native executive chef Daniele Cason serves a-by-the-slice counter omakase experience for up to eight guests taking in six types of seasonal pizza including classic marinara and with toppings such as 'mountain vegetables' and courgette flowers. The pizza scene in the Japanese capital has rivalled the best in the world in recent years, so it makes sense that one of the leading pizza omakase experiences should be found here. Lunch menu ¥13,200 (£67), dinner ¥18,700 (£95). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Time Out
11-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Pair'd Margaret River festival returns in 2025 with Michelin-starred talent and world-class wine
Opera in ancient caves, fire feasts beneath the stars and exclusive dinners by Michelin-starred chefs – that's just a taste of the 30 one-of-a-kind experiences on offer at Pair'd Margaret River in 2025. After a mega-successful debut last spring, Australia's chicest food and wine festival returns from November 20 to 23 with world-class wine and talent – including the 'Godfather of Fire' Francis Mallmann (of Chef's Table fame), who will make his first appearance Down Under in more than a decade. In a first for any Australian wine region, Pair'd will take place immediately after the prestigious World's 50 Best Vineyards awards – with Margaret River becoming the first destination in the country to host the global ceremony. The festival's 2025 program is overflowing with incredible wine-focused events, stretching from the sea to the forest, the vines and even an underground cave. Here's just a taste of what's pouring this year. Renowned for his mastery of open-fire cooking, Argentine chef Francis Mallmann will headline Pair'd 2025 in a one-off Burnt Ends and Friends dinner alongside some of the world's top grill chefs. Joining him at the flames are Dave Pynt of Singapore's Michelin-starred Burnt Ends, viral cooking sensation Andy Hearnden (@andycooks), and the cult barbecue legends from Perth's Big Don's – all dishing up smoky perfection, perfectly paired with Wills Domain wines. More of the world's most celebrated Michelin-starred chefs and sommeliers will unite for the Pair'd Wine Dinner Series, including a bold tribute to the sea by Josh Niland (Saint Peter), Nathan Outlaw (Outlaw's) and Travis Crane (Voyager Estate), and an intimate collaboration between De'sendent's Evan Hayter and Rishi Naleendra of Singapore's two-Michelin-starred Cloudstreet. For more fun among the vines, festivalgoers can sip their way through The Grand Tasting – an exclusive garden party at Howard Park Wines with unlimited wine tastings, or raise a glass to the next gen of winemakers at The New Wave Gathering, featuring immersive tastings, cutting-edge music and the region's best street eats. After a successful launch in 2024, the Pair'd Beach Club is back, taking over the sparkling shores of Meelup Beach for a luxe surf-and-turf feast by Michelin-starred chef Nathan Outlaw and local legend Aaron Carr (Yarri Restaurant and Bar). Sip specialty wines with your toes in the sand as live sax and DJ beats bring the beach to life. Also returning for 2025 is Tasting Notes: Sound of a Region – a world-first sonic wine experience created by global sensory artist Dr Jo Burzynska that you can enjoy at Nature's Table – a sensory four-course long lunch set beneath the towering karri trees of Tanah Marah. Just last month, Qantas launched a new direct route between Perth and Busselton, making it easier than ever to explore the world-class Margaret River wine region. Jetstar already flies direct from both Melbourne and Sydney to Busselton-Margaret River, or you can opt for a scenic three-hour drive from Perth. Tickets for Pair'd Margaret River go live on July 16 – and you can explore the full festival program here. 🧀
Sydney Morning Herald
10-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Sydney Morning Herald
The ‘godfather of open-fire cooking' is coming to Margaret River
Netflix star and Argentine cooking sensation Francis Mallmann will headline an international food, wine and music festival taking over Western Australia's Margaret River Region in November. 'I'm a cook that uses cooking to send this message of a way of living,' Mallmann says in his episode of Chef's Table, the groundbreaking series that has shifted the goalposts for food documentaries. 'I'm always cooking in remote places. In the wild. With fires. So my message is get out of your chair. Get out of your sofa. Get out of your office. And go out.' Eaters will have many reasons to get out of whatever they're sitting in when Mallman (temporarily) swaps the comfort of his home in Argentina's remote Patagonia region for the white sands and towering karri forests of Margaret River and, more specifically, the good times of the Pair'd Margaret River f estival from November 20-23.
The Age
10-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Age
The ‘godfather of open-fire cooking' is coming to Margaret River
Netflix star and Argentine cooking sensation Francis Mallmann will headline an international food, wine and music festival taking over Western Australia's Margaret River Region in November. 'I'm a cook that uses cooking to send this message of a way of living,' Mallmann says in his episode of Chef's Table, the groundbreaking series that has shifted the goalposts for food documentaries. 'I'm always cooking in remote places. In the wild. With fires. So my message is get out of your chair. Get out of your sofa. Get out of your office. And go out.' Eaters will have many reasons to get out of whatever they're sitting in when Mallman (temporarily) swaps the comfort of his home in Argentina's remote Patagonia region for the white sands and towering karri forests of Margaret River and, more specifically, the good times of the Pair'd Margaret River f estival from November 20-23.
Time Magazine
26-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Magazine
In Season 4, 'The Bear' Has—Quite Literally—Lost the Plot
This article contains extremely minor spoilers for The Bear Season 4. You can't go wrong putting delicious-looking food and the perfectionist chefs who cook it on TV. That was the lesson of Food Network's rise in the 1990s. It held true throughout the Y2K reality boom; stalwart competitions like Top Chef and Hell's Kitchen are still on the air after more than 20 seasons. Anthony Bourdain created his own subgenre of culturally aware, personality-driven food-travel shows that has persisted, since his death, in variations on the format from Padma Lakshmi, Stanley Tucci, Phil Rosenthal, and others. The streaming era has yielded a cornucopia of beautifully shot food programs: Chef's Table, Omnivore, High on the Hog, Salt Fat Acid Heat. All of which is to say that, though it's understood to have been a surprise hit, FX's The Bear was well placed to become the phenomenon it is. The rare scripted series set in a restaurant, its first two seasons combined all the enticements of the best nonfiction food TV with the propulsive tale of a grieving, Paul-Newman-lookalike master chef (Jeremy Allen White) who toils to transform his family's Italian beef joint into a fine-dining mecca worthy of a Michelin star. Like many popular food shows, The Bear makes for satisfying comfort viewing even when the narrative is lacking. Be that as it may, its fourth season, now streaming in full on Hulu, so exacerbates the stagnation that set in during Season 3 that it's bound to make all but the least demanding fans impatient. The show still looks scrumptious. But it has, quite literally, lost the plot. Following the frenzied efforts of White's Carmy Berzatto, in Season 1, to save The Original Beef of Chicagoland, formerly operated by his recently deceased brother Mikey (John Bernthal), and Season 2's transformation of the space and its staff in preparation of its rebirth as culinary destination The Bear, the third season chronicled the new spot's rough start. Carmy chose his work over his burgeoning relationship with Claire (Molly Gordon), pushing himself towards artistic excellence—and his employees towards madness—with a new menu every day. His unwillingness to compromise made the restaurant unfeasibly expensive to run, infuriating his investor, family friend Uncle Jimmy (a.k.a. Cicero, played by Oliver Platt) and making his sister and business manager Sugar's (Abby Elliott) life difficult as she welcomed a new baby. It also heightened Carmy's perennial conflict with Mikey's best friend Richie (Ebon Moss-Bachrach), whose charm eased his evolution from managing The Beef to running front of house for The Bear. Their fights in the kitchen threw dinner services into chaos. Said chaos forced Sydney (Ayo Edebiri), a talented and self-possessed young chef who once idolized Carmy, to consider leaving this restaurant she helped create to accept a job offer from a more stable competitor. But by the end of the season, no problems had been solved and few questions answered. Maybe this was a manifestation of the same streaming bloat that has also, recently, produced maddeningly incomplete seasons of hit shows like The Last of Us and Squid Game. To give The Bear the benefit of the doubt, which it had earned, was to interpret 10 episodes' worth of wheel-spinning as a stylistic choice underscoring the characters' own poor communication and fundamental stuckness. When the finale made the contents of a Chicago Tribune review its cliffhanger, it seemed as though movement was finally imminent. Unfortunately, Season 4—whose thematic throughline is Carmy and his family and colleagues mending broken relationships and making amends for the hurt they've caused each other—is just as inert. Carmy acknowledges as much in a premiere that finds him gloomily watching Groundhog Day on TV and complaining to pastry chef Marcus (Lionel Boyce) that he feels 'stuck in the same day.' The Trib headline reads: 'Bear Necessities Missing: The Bear Stumbles With Culinary Dissonance,' and the gist is that, while the food is interesting and ambitious, a lack of harmony behind the scenes makes the overall experience a crapshoot. Or, as Syd sums it up, 'The Trib ate here three different times at three different restaurants… They didn't like the chaos.' As usual, Carmy sees the situation through his own, depressive and self-absorbed, lens: 'I wasn't good enough, and I need to be better.' Whatever the core problem may be, the need for improvement is urgent. Spooked by the review, Jimmy and his numbers guy, The Computer (Brian Koppelman), come into the kitchen with a giant digital timer, counting down two months' worth of seconds. That's how long The Bear has to change its financial outlook or close. This challenge should've been enough to get the show cooking again. Weirdly, it isn't. Though the timer keeps ticking and graphs charting the restaurant's progress periodically flash across the screen, little of what actually happens has much to do with this race towards profitability. It's as though creator Christopher Storer has forgotten how to do the kind of thrilling service scenes that once made The Bear so addictive, painting plot beats and character development into the larger panorama of present-tense panic. Instead, in too many formless episodes, Season 4 favors quiet solo scenes (Syd perfects a dish amid dramatic lighting and a haunting St. Vincent track, in a set piece that looks lovely but has nothing new to say) and earnest two-handers. These one-on-one conversations sound remarkably similar to one another. Everyone is always expressing profound truths from the very bottom of their soul. And what they're conveying, more often than not, are truisms or self-help koans: 'People are not so different.' 'It's realizing the capacity to love that matters.' 'There is probably one really true thing about restaurants… You are never alone.' As awards pundits never fail to notice, The Bear resists categorization as a comedy. Now, it's not only seldom funny; it also takes itself way too seriously. That shift in tone, from early seasons that moved fluidly between humor and wonder and angst to the relentless solemnity of the past two, has been particularly frustrating with regard to our hero. It's not hard to believe Carmy's a culinary genius, nor would the show work if he wasn't one. What's growing tiresome is his depiction as the ultimate tragic hero, noble and beautiful but cursed by the tragic flaw of his perfectionism, and specifically of his need to compensate for a bad childhood by proving he's the best to ever tweezer microgreens onto a blanket of foam. The camera lingers for too long on his pained, Grecian-bust features. His every line is freighted with meaning. White does as great a job as is probably possible of making this overly aestheticized archetype into a believable human being. It's not his fault that Carmy has gotten so boring. For proof, look to Season 4's best episode, in which he isn't even a presence. Directed by Zola filmmaker Janicza Bravo (every other episode this season credits Storer as director or co-director), it follows Syd on a day off spent getting her hair braided at the home of a stylist pal, Chantel, played by Danielle Deadwyler. A pragmatic, emotionally intelligent contrast to Carmy, Syd is still agonizing over whether to leave The Bear or become one of its partners. When Chantel has to run to the beauty supply store for more hair, Syd entertains—and, of course, tenderly cooks a meal for—her 10-year-old daughter, TJ (Arion King), who happens to be navigating a painful transition of her own. The episode is refreshing, thanks in part to Bravo's lighter hand and in part to the respite it offers from Carmy's wallowing. Standout installments of previous seasons have also spotlighted secondary characters, from Season 2's Richie-focused 'Forks' to line cook Tina's (Liza Colón-Zayas) origin story in 'Napkins,' from Season 3. The Bear should be leaning more and more on this great supporting ensemble, whose characters are rich with potential storylines, for longevity. To Storer's credit, the new season does dial back the distracting celebrity-chef cameos and, with Deadwyler among the few exceptions, shiny A-list guest stars. (A wedding episode features many of the same characters we met in Season 2's divisive family Christmas blowout, 'Fishes,' to which this sometimes-wonderful but excessively long, 70-minute montage of confessions and reconciliations is trying a bit too hard to be a sequel.) Still: Carmy's brooding leaves little time to venture into the lives of, say, Tina or Marcus. Like its predecessor, this season ends with the tantalizing suggestion of big, overdue changes to come. If the twist that's teased in the promising finale really does happen, it will be The Bear's most substantial—and, I think, most inspired—reset to date. If not, a show that has now been in decline for half its run risks devolving into a mess as self-indulgent, morose, and, well, dissonant as its title character.
