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The Hindu
5 days ago
- The Hindu
How Chettinad's cuisine holds the secrets of its mercantile people. We find out on a food trail
The sweet smell of marigolds mixed with the still humidity of a Tamil Nadu afternoon linger in the air. We are in a palatial Chettinad mansion, one of many that we will visit in the coming few days. The tiles are a work of beauty, the Burmese teak pillars stand imposingly tall, and the aromas from the kitchen beckon. I am in the historic region of Chettinad on a food trail called Suvai, organised by The Lotus Palace Chettinad. Over this weekend, I try all the food that the region has to offer and learn more about the Chettiar community. Last year, the Park hotels restored one of the oldest mansions in the region and launched the Lotus Palace Chettinad. Located near Karaikudi, the hotel joins hands with other properties in the area for Suvai, a three-day festival celebrating the cuisine of Chettinad. Iconic properties such as The Bangala, Visalam, Chidambara Vilas, and Chettinad Mansion, are also part of the festival. So, I pack my bags and catch a flight to Trichy, to immerse myself in the region's rich history. Who are the Chettiars? Day one of the festival kicks off with a welcome dinner at The Lotus Palace by Priya Paul, the chairperson of Apeejay Surrendra Park Hotels Ltd. I am staying at Visalam, an art-Deco style CGH Earth hotel, a few minutes away. The dinner is curated by chefs Niyati Rao from Ekaa, Mumbai, and Ashutosh Nerlekar from The Park, Chennai, and is a mix of traditional and modern. Think almond soup with gundu milagai chillies, and lamb brain venpongal. With my drink in my hand, I join Kathiravan Karunanithi, the hotel's manager, on a tour of the property and a riveting history lesson. 'Chetty' is derived from the Sanskrit word sreshta, the same root for words like seth. They are a wealthy merchant class from Tamil Nadu. Legends say they originally lived near the coast in Kaveri Poompatinam and a tsunami drove them inland. They settled in villages in the Pudukottai district. Since they were maritime traders from the eighth century, they travelled far and wide. Their homes and kitchens bear testament to that; enamel and lacquer ware, antique wooden furniture, dry preserved foods like vatthals and dried meat, and of course, the spices. They even brought back the 'forbidden' black rice from East Asia and use it to make payasam. Between wedding feasts and street snacks After a breakfast of steamed rice kozhukattai and dosa, we are off to explore the town. The first stop is Soundaram snacks. I feel like Charlie in the chocolate factory, except it is heaps of murukus instead of trees of candy. A family-run and women-led business, Soundaram makes authentic coconut oil and rice flour snacks. After the tour and watching the women hand-make the murukus and seedais, I buy a bagful to take it back to Bengaluru with me. Lunch is at The Bangala, a property run by the 92-year-old Meenakshi Meyyappan. After a cooking demonstration using local spices, we sit down for a wedding-style feast. Banana leaf prepped, I watch in awe as the servers pile on dish after dish. Chettinad food may have a reputation of being spicy, but here I find it balanced and ingredient-focussed. To name a few, I have — banana flower ketti kuzhambu, mutton uppi kari, chicken pepper masala, peanut capsicum mandi and badam halwa. To get our appetites ready for the evening, we take an afternoon walk in the antique market of Karaikudi. Here you can find cast iron vessels, enamelware crockery and kitchen tools, that was all collected as dowry for the women in the community. Before dinner we stop at Chettinadu Mansion for high tea. The hotel has snacks such as black rice upma, sweet and savoury kozhukattai, paniyaram, and even a spicy and garlicy rose petal chutney. Tales from the kitchen The evening begins with an illuminating session between historian V Sriram and author Meyyammai Murugappan. Meyyammai wrote The Chettinad Cookbook, with her sister Visalakshi Ramaswamy. In the conversation she shares anecdotes about growing up near her grandmother's house, which was just across the lane, and how her grandmother cooked for her. After she got married, Meyyammai went to Malaysia and slowly learnt to cook there. Through the talk I learn how frugal, yet hospitable the community is. While the men travelled, the women ran the house. Saving and storing food is a large part of their culture; it would be trumpeted today as sustainability. We round off the day with a tiffin style dinner at Chidambara Vilas, an 118-year-old home that is now a luxury hotel. I go to bed thinking to myself there is no such thing as too much kozhukattai. From Burma with love The farewell lunch takes place the next day at Visalam. The house was built a century ago by KVAL Ramanathan Chettiar for his eldest daughter, Visalakshi. This lunch is inspired by Burmese flavours, reflecting the Chettiars' frequent travels to the region. We have a mildly spiced khao sway, bein mont (a sweet Burmese pancake) and peru soru, also called King's one pot mutton meal. Chettinad is its own pocket of culture, history and heritage in the middle of an arid landscape. Its stories, architecture, cuisine food, and enterprising people make it unique and a must-visit for lovers of history and food. The writer was in Chettinad at the invitation of The Lotus Palace Chettinad
Hans India
12-07-2025
- Business
- Hans India
IBCN 2025: Celebrating the Chettiar legacy
Bengaluru : The International Business Conference of Nagarathars (IBCN), the biennial global gathering of the Chettiar business community, returns this year with a renewed focus on youth, innovation, and inclusive leadership. Scheduled over three days from July 11-13 at the Manyata Hilton, Bengaluru, the 6th edition of IBCN is expected to host over 600 delegates. Also Read - Adani Group to invest $100 billion over next five years: Gautam Adani Organized by the Nagarathar International Foundation, the 2025 edition is themed 'Enhancing Nagarathar Businesses Through Technology' and aims to honor the storied legacy of the Chettiars, known for their entrepreneurial acumen and philanthropy, while igniting the spirit of innovation in a new generation of community leaders
Hans India
11-07-2025
- Business
- Hans India
IBCN 2025: Celebrating the Chettiar Legacy, Powering Youthful Enterprise
Bengaluru: The International Business Conference of Nagarathars (IBCN), the biennial global gathering of the Chettiar business community, returns this year with a renewed focus on youth, innovation, and inclusive leadership. Scheduled over three days from July 11–13 at the Manyata Hilton, Bengaluru, the 6th edition of IBCN is expected to host over 600 delegates. Organised by the Nagarathar International Foundation, the 2025 edition is themed 'Enhancing Nagarathar Businesses Through Technology' and aims to honour the storied legacy of the Chettiars, known for their entrepreneurial acumen and philanthropy, while igniting the spirit of innovation in a new generation of community leaders. The inaugural session on July 12 will be led by three cabinet ministers: Shri S. Regupathy, Tamil Nadu Minister of Law, Courts, Prisons and Mines; Shri K. R. Periyakaruppan, Tamil Nadu Minister for Co-operatives and Shri Dinesh Gundu Rao, Karnataka Minister for Health and Family Welfare. A highlight of the conference will be the address by Dr. V. Anantha Nageswaran, Chief Economic Advisor, Government of India, who will speak on 'Capital Sphere' on July 12 afternoon. The conference features a dynamic range of sessions, including keynotes by Mr. D. Shivakumar, former CEO of PepsiCo and Nokia India, on 'Global & Indian Business Horizons' at noon on July 12 and Harish Bhat, former Brand Custodian of Tata Sons on 'Building a Nation, Shaping a Brand: The Tata Sons Journey' at 2 pm on July 13. The conference will conclude with a valedictory address on Sunday, July 13 by Shri Priyank M. Kharge, Karnataka Minister for IT & Rural Development and a keynote by Rajiv Srivatsa, Co-founder of Urban Ladder. Day one evening, July 11, will feature a special address by Film Director and Actor KS Ravikumar and - Music mosaic with Chinmayi. 'This conference is a bridge between our rich mercantile past and a future powered by knowledge, creativity, and youthful aspiration,' said M. Ramanathan, Organising Secretary, IBCN 2025. 'IBCN is a unique platform where seasoned industrialists and ambitious youth come together to chart a new growth narrative for the community,' added Dr Ravi Veerappan, Chairman IBCN 2025. A session on GenNext Business Leaders will feature Shri Karti Chidambaram, Member of Parliament, alongside Hari Thiagarajan (MD, Thiagarajar Mills) and Swathy Rohit (Founder & CEO, Health Basix) to be moderated by Chocko Valliappa, CEO, Vee Technologies. One of the signature features is the Youth Enterprise Track, with dedicated innovation labs, mentoring circles, and pitch sessions for Chettiar start-ups. The conference will also host multiple stream sessions in areas such as Seven streams include Edutech, IT and Electronics, Aspiring Entrepreneurs, Nagarathar Enterprises, Pharma and Healthcare, Finance and Fintech, and Real Estate and Construction with over 75 speakers including accomplished Nagarathars.
The Hindu
19-06-2025
- The Hindu
Sunrise in Siruvani: A peek into Tamil culture and Kongunadu cuisine
The picturesque Western Ghats bathed in pastel pink hues at twilight, and an absolute calm form our first impression of Dvara Siruvani. Before we get to the property, which is an hour's drive from the city, we stop by for a satisfying lunch at Rasanai with Kongu kozhi thanni rasam, a fiery chicken soup, followed by a line-up of chicken biryani, and the impressive Sivaji Nagar military hotel mutton chops, rounded off with mango pudding for dessert. Once at Dvara, I sip my welcome drink and watch the mighty hills and the forests take on a many colours. There are 16 cottages that include mountain view, private infinity pools and garden view. Each cottage is named after native flowers likekonrai, vaagai, parijatham to name a few. I bow down to enter my cottage named Kurunji through an artistically carved door that once graced a Chettiar home in Karaikudi. Short in stature, such doors encouraged the tradition of bowing while entering a home to show its inhabitants respect and humility. A private garden opens into stunning views of the Western Ghats and copious waters of the Noyyal flowing into the Mundanthurai check dam. Heirloom furniture including a wooden poster bed, Tanjore glass paintings and aesthetic artefacts compliment the interiors. An infinity plunge pool adds to the luxury. 'The property was a bit of an accident,' recalls Vikram Mohan, chairman of Pricol group that runs Dvara. 'The property evolved from a desiliting project to an outbound training centre with tents. Later, my wife Lakshmi and I developed Dvara as a labour of love. We both are collectors of South Indian antiquities for many years, from old Kanjivaram saris and Ravi Varma prints to old vengalapitalapathram, kadarams, thengaithuruvis and kavadis. Our bed runners feature paaavadai davani designs in multiple colours. Lakshmi's collection of her grandmother's saris became the beds' backdrop. We celebrate all things South Indian, Tamil heritage and conceptualised the property as a throwback to visiting homes in villages complete with Kongunadu samayal.' Every corner at the property unravels cultural memorabilia. Old utensils, South Indian antique artefacts, Tanjore paintings and enamelware peek through the common areas that have an old world charm. An antique chest at the reception is stunning. 'Some of the urulis displayed bear the cross on them indicating that they have been used in Christian households to make payasam. We added details like ergonomically designed thinnai, oonjal, and vilakkumaadam to replicate village life. While the doors tell stories of humility and a method of self-defence, the AshtaMangalam mural is indicative of qualities one needs to have to lead a good quality life. There is abundant greenery and the entire landscaping credit goes to my wife. We added Pollachi rekla vandi, and terracotta horses (crafted by a potter from Tirunelveli) to the garden decor. It's more like a virunthombal experience.' At dinner time, Chef Arul and his team lay out fluffy idiyappamidlis and creamy chicken stew. After a round of sulaimani, we call it a day. At the crack of dawn, along with M Rajesh, an in-house naturalist, we walk past bougainvillea and jasmine blooms, yellow trumpet trees and Rangoon creepers with red flower clusters for a trek to the foothills of the Western Ghats. Along the way, we spot a purple sunbird, an Oriental darter sunbathing with its wings spread out on a tree top, while the colourful Indian Pita whistles away and the common hawk-cuckoo sings repetitively. Lunch at Aarogyam, the in-house restaurant, showcases delicious Kongu cuisine. We try the aromatic Keeranur chicken biryani, bun parotta with Kongunadu mutton kuzhambu and vethalai poondu saadam, short grain rice flavoured with betel leaves and fried garlic. As a culinary anthropologist, Vikram has been studying the history of food of Peninsular India and that's how he introduced Kongu cuisine. 'It's all about the nuances of flavours. For example, betel leaf has a strong taste and how that imparts a dish or garlic when it's slightly roasted without curry. In Pollachi mutton kuzhambu, the flavouring comes from drumstick used in the curry. In villages around Karur, there is sorakkai thattaipayir saadam eaten with vaalaithanduthayir pachadi,' explains Vikram adding that he also picked recipes like asari kozhi varuval, endemic to the region. 'There is something called porial podi made with six ingredients like coriander seeds, fenugreek, dry chillies, channa dal, urad dal, and a hint of black pepper, coarsely ground. A pinch of asafoetida gives the umami flavour.' After a relaxing foot massage at the spa, I sit by the thinnai and gaze at the mountains, content and happy To know more, visit or call 7339111222
Hans India
09-06-2025
- Business
- Hans India
The Sona Story: The textile to tech journey of industrialist C Valliappa
Bengaluru: In the pantheon of India's IT revolution, few real estate addresses are as iconic as Sona Towers on Bengaluru's Millers Road. And fewer still are the stories as quietly powerful as that of the man behind it—C. Valliappa, the Chettiar industrialist whose foresight laid the very foundations for what would become India's Silicon Valley moment. Chitra Narayanan's 'The Sona Story' by Bloomsbury captures this remarkable journey with depth, subtlety and a strong narrative pulse. At the heart of the book lies the gripping account of how Valliappa, a textile magnate with no prior experience in commercial real estate, constructed Sona Towers with unwavering commitment to quality. In 1984, Texas Instruments (TI), the American semiconductor giant, chose this building to house India's first offshore software development centre using remote uplink using a satellite dish atop Sona Towers—a landmark event that catalysed India's software exports and tech services boom. With its wind-tested structures, earthquake-resistant foundation, and uninterrupted power supply, Sona Towers was years ahead of its time. As Nandan Nilekani, co-founder of Infosys, notes in his advance praise, 'Mr Valliappa was the first entrepreneur to work with a global multinational like Texas Instruments to put up India's first remote software development centre using a satellite dish.' His efforts also unlocked a wave of government support, including the STPI programme, further fuelling Bengaluru's ascent as a global tech hub. What makes the book especially compelling is its multidimensional portrayal of Valliappa—not just as a businessman, but as a compassionate human being. Whether it's his refusal to let a tenant compromise his ethics or his focus on philanthropic efforts in education, healthcare, and rural development, the portrait that emerges is of a man who blended Vyaparam (enterprise) with Dharmam (giving). As Bhaskar Bhat, former MD of Titan, housed at Sona Towers in its early years, reflects, Valliappa's life 'will go a long way in helping budding entrepreneurs conduct themselves through life.' And IM Kadri, the architect of Sona Towers, aptly calls it 'a delightful and inspiring journey.'
